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A couple dumb rear end questions. I have no back ground in wood work, though a reasonable amount in machine work. 1st, I’m buying a birch butcher block counter top to use as the top for a standing desk since I work from home. I like the natural wood colors, is there a recommended finish y’all would choose? I’ve finished with linseed oil before, so I was thinking of that or tung. 2nd, I’ve got some projects to tackle and I think it’s time for babies first table saw. I’ve seen the old craftsman’s around for the $50-100 range and some times $200 with a nice fence. Is that the right way to go or should I just buy whatever contractor saw is on sale? I figure with a crapsman I need to make a zero offset insert for the blade as they don’t have any protections that I can see.
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Feb 22, 2021 14:36
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 02:03 |
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100% a huge fear of mine. I was assuming a zero clearance insert would be as good as a riving knife. I’d obviously love a saw stop, but the price is a bit high for me for my first foray into woodworking.
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Feb 22, 2021 15:40
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I appreciate all the good advise. I’m still leaning towards a table saw as one of my goal projects is a built in dry bar and it looks like a really helpful took for cabinet door making at the very least. I don’t mine hand tools, but I like to get projects done quickly and have 1500sq ft garage so there’s room. I have a real dumb question though. I’m planning on routing in a chamfered edge on my desk top. On the corners of the table I want to run a small round over. Say 1/2 radius to keep the chamfer from being too knife edge and chipping out. Can I just use a round over router bit and cut down the side of the board (if the table top is parallel to the floor, imagine the router perpendicular to the floor)? Or do I need a jig and cut from the top with flush trim bit?
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Feb 23, 2021 15:36
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Leperflesh posted:Lots of words First of all I really appreciate all the effort and knowledge. I would like to caveat that this is not my first wood working tool, or project but rather my first look into doing something with a little more precision. I own a circular saw, router, miter saw, chisels and what not. A lot of my draw to table saw may be out of ignorance, form looking up guides like this. Just seems like a good way to get repeatable square/normal cuts. I hadnt considered a band saw for joints, but that does make sense. Per my real dumb question, see this ball park random cad I sketched up with what I'm trying to archive.  I was debating if I could use a round over bit to generate the red surface in the image before I created the chamfer. Order of operation would be important hear to generate the radiused chamfer. However upon thinking on it more, as you said, I think I would blow out a ton of wood and have to glue boards on either side to guide the router on and off of the table top. It seems worth while to just go buy some $10 patterns and a flush cutting template bit and just make the cut 2x, once from the top and once from the bottom. The table top is 1.75" thick and I only have a 1/4" router so I don't really want to go over an 1" long on the bit.. Im not saying I hate hand tools, but I've been a design engineer for more than 5 years in the industrial power tool market so I really really like being able to have repeatable shape. The idea of trying to make a radiused corner by hand that would be normal to both sides and of consistent curvature does not sound like my idea of a good time. Id rather use a consistent known template as a cutting guide.
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Feb 23, 2021 23:20
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More stupid newbie questions. My printed router guide will have to be used on both sides of the raw birch table top that I am trimming the edges of. My printer isnt large enough to give me room to clamp it to the board. Can I use hot glue or an other adheasive to temporarily fix it to the surface with out hurting the finish that I will be applying? (General Finishes High Performance poly)
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Feb 25, 2021 17:27
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First of all, thanks for humoring all my dumb questions. Second y'all were right, it it weren't 20ft of edge, a hand tool might have been a better idea. My 3D printed corner template worked well enough for the first 7 cuts. On the 8th cut it melted at the bearing and I gouged the hell out of the corner with the flush trim bit. At the end of the day ended up doing a ton of sanding to make things look ok, and tucking the fubar corner in the back. The general finish high performance satin poly was 100% the way to go. It looks super nice, and feels really nice to the touch.  Also lets me have my god awful huge supplier prints all spread out, plus sit or stand options. I couldn't be more pleased.
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Feb 26, 2021 20:53
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I’ve been working on my first wood working project. Built a miter jig to make picture frames and the first frame is done save for finish. Curly maple is the material for the frame with contrasting splines because that seemed easy. Finishing is unknown territory for me. Is the a recommended way to finish curly maple? I don’t want the frame to be nuts and take attention away from the art. It will be holding a black and white photo, so I’d like to stay on the light side of natural.
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Oct 10, 2022 02:54
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I’ve used black locust for garden stuff and it’s held up very well.
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Oct 18, 2022 21:58
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Might be worth looking around to see if you have a coop or something of the like around. Two cities near me have community wood work shops that are nice and pretty reasonable. Mines $100 a year in a 3500sqft shop. They have planer, jointer, drum sander, band saw, two lathes, two saw stop cabinets, a cnc, and a bunch of other stuff. They also have a bunch of old guys that find wood and add it to the shop that you can buy at cost. I don’t have the resources, space, or time to set up a shop like that so it’s well worth it to me.
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Nov 1, 2022 22:22
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So I’m on to my second wordwood working project after a picture frame, an end grain cutting board for a gift. I’ve bought about 12ft of about 2”x6” walnut and maple rough sawn and kiln dried. I want to run through the steps here because I have about 3 days of shop time to accomplish this in. And don’t want to buy more lumber. Desired end goal: 14.5” x 24” x 2.5” end grain cutting board. 1. Cut boards down to about 45” long to give me room to not worry about snipe. 2. Run through jointer/planer/table saw to get them squared up. 3. Rip into 4 maples and 3 walnut 2” wide strips and 1 walnut 1” wide strip. 4. Glue up with about 8 claps perpendicular to the board’s 45” length with about 4 camps with cross boards covered in packing tape trying to keep everything planer. Let dry. 5. Run big rear end 15” board through planer to get parallel on both faces. 6. Cross cut into 2.75 inch strips. Flip strips to make pattern and cut two pine 2.75”x2”x15” boards to glue to ends. glue up again using a similar clamping arrangement across its now 15” width. Let dry. 7. Run through planer to near final thickness. Take to table saw to cut off sacrificial pine ends. Take to drum sander bring thickness in. Chamfer corners with plane, round over top and bottom with router table. Also use router table to put a full round grip in two sides of the board for probably 6” length. Then try to figure out how to do a juice gutter with a hand router. Sand sand sand sand. Then mineral oil. 8. Think about how I should have just bought one. Sadi fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Nov 16, 2022 |
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Nov 16, 2022 19:26
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Thanks for letting me know re planer. I’m using a 15” grizzly helix planer. I figure 15 thou passes are probably sufficient? My fear was that the drum sander would get overwhelmed quickly with that much wood and would be better used for getting the planner cutter marks out before hand sanding.
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Nov 16, 2022 19:49
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Stupid newb question. Im making progress on my end grain cutting board. Squared up about 20ft of 4/8 by 6" boards and cut into strips and glued up into my parallel grain long board. Its about 14.75 inches wide and about 50" long. Im going to be feeding it through a 15" planer. I plan on sanding down the glue squeeze out high spots on one side. Then plane both sides till the blades have touched everything. Any words to the wise for a dumbass like my self?
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Dec 8, 2022 21:59
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Ah sorry I wasn't clear. This is in the long grain direction at the moment. The next glue up will be end grain and that will go through the drum sander. The main thing I'm looking to understand is if there are any potential pitfalls to running near full width in a planer. I imagine the main thing is just to make sure to take thin passes.
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Dec 8, 2022 22:44
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Cutting board round 1000. https://imgur.com/a/gEzIIiz I have some micro cracks in the end grain and some lovely glue joints. Should I fill these with something prior to soaking with mineral oil? I could only see the defects after sanding.
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Dec 19, 2022 22:39
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More stupid new person poo poo. Picture frame and end grain cutting board under my belt are both wins. I want to replace my wire form shelves in my pantry with wood. Easy mode seems like it would be ply but I’ve really been enjoying working with solid wood. Are there any tips or good reading material on doing panel glue ups for shelves, or maybe floating shelves? My we searches haven’t find me a ton of useful poo poo, mostly just Pinterest links.
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Jan 17, 2023 14:45
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I come to y'all with yet another stupid newbie question. I'm making an apron rack for my pantry and coat rack for my closet.   The above is the general idea but Im adding more layers to match the width of the space. The idea is I run a 5/16 dowel down all the parts and that will act as a hinge for the hanger bits (maple) to pivot on. The darker blocks are pretty much just walnut bricks, 2" thick in the direction the dowel would go. For both the maple and the walnut portions I've made sure my cuts are square as hell. For drilling the holes, I've set up a fence that datum A is held against and a dowel that datum B slides into. I also made sure with a machinist's square that my drill bit is square to the bed. However, when I drilled the walnut with a jobber length 5/16 (no pilot) regular multi use drill bit, the hole seems to have wondered off perpendicular. Im at a loss here. If I were drilling metal, I would have center drilled, pre drilled with a smaller bit and worked up to a 5/16. Woods soft as hell, I figured I could just go for it. How do I drill a good hole in wood? As an aside, I'm debating buying some drill rod to just be sure the runout and perpendicularity of my chuck is dead nuts on.
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Mar 25, 2023 18:45
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Thanks for the thoughts and ideas. It did make me go inspect my old 40s famco and sure enough there is some play in the quill. I haven’t looked at it closely in years. I’ll tune that up and look into ways of drilling with out a continuous bore.
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Mar 25, 2023 19:33
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Im planning to re do my quite small pantry to get rid of the wire shelves. Its about 35" wide, Ill make the shelves about 20" deep. I figure ill do wall battens with 3/4 ply shelves and edge banding. The battens would support on 3 sides. Right now looking at plain sliced red oak ply as its one of the cheaper light colors plain sliced plys available near me. My question comes down to wall batten sizing. I figure the battens are really only supporting a vertical load mostly directly over the fasteners going into the studs. So I should be able to get away with a pretty small batten right? Maybe even using some L shaped aluminum extrusion, it can be had pretty cheap, and I imagine it would be able to tuck mostly behind the boards. Ideally I like the floating shelf look, but I dont really want to spend the time and effort on framing the whole thing out, covering in ply, and mounting. I have limited space already so 3" thick shelves are a turn off. EDIT: I may be using the wrong word? Battens, cleats? Just a horizontal strip of material whos whole goal in life is to transfer load from a stud, through a fastener, to a shelf. Sadi fucked around with this message at 15:05 on Apr 25, 2023 |
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Apr 25, 2023 15:00
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I’ve been a big fan of the gripper for planer and router table as well. Also like it for ripping smaller things that are hard to hold. They just have to be in that narrow window of right sizes for it. But picture frames so far fit that niche well.
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May 4, 2023 18:06
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I have another stupid newbee question. I’m going to be making a record display shelf. Simple design from the profile, essentially a 1”x1” L shape. I’m thinking I’m going to make 5 of them out of 10’ length of walnut. Then going to screw them into my wall to have a walnut record wall. What I’m worried about is the smaller parts I rip out of the main board twisting and bending. Any idea of the best way to execute something like this?
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Oct 1, 2023 19:30
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