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ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

Forums :

http://www.forums.woodnet.net
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/index.php
http://lumberjocks.com/forums

Video Podcast Sites, Blogs and Instructional Classes and other Resources:

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/ Videos
http://thewoodwhisperer.com/
https://woodworkingmasterclasses.com/
https://paulsellers.com/
http://www.renaissancewoodworker.com/
https://videos.popularwoodworking.com/
http://blog.lostartpress.com/
http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/chris-schwarz-blog


Audio Podcasts:



An audio podcast produced by Marc Spagnuolo (The Wood Whisperer) and two of his buddies Shannon Rogers and Matt Vanderlist.

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/woodtalk/



From the staff of Fine Woodworking magazine.


Woodworking Supplies:

https://www.rockler.com
https://www.woodcraft.com
https://www.amazon.com
https://www.woodpeck.com
https://www.leevalley.com
https://www.lie-nielsen.com

Here are some book recommendations:


Taunton's Complete Illustrated Guide to Woodworking

Bad Munki weighs in on this series of books by Taunton Press below:

There are a hell of a lot of books in this series.

Joinery - Tied with Flexner's wood finishing for #1 most useful woodworking book. Excellent illustrations and photos. Shows detailed how-to instructions for every joint you'll ever need and when you would need to use it. What really makes it shine is that it gives instructions on how to make the joints with different tools. Instead of saying "to make X joint, use Z tool and ...." it is more like "to make X joint using a table saw, do it like this. For a router, do it like this. For a bandsaw and a jointer, do it like this."

Shaping Wood and Period Furniture Details. Buy one or the other. There is a lot of duplication between these two books. Not just similar ideas, but identical chapters. Taunton is (to me) the best publisher of woodworking books, so it was kind of a letdown to see two high-priced books in the same series to have so much duplicate material.

Furniture and Cabinet Construction and Box Making. Both very good books for specific types of woodworking. As par with the rest of the series, the illustrations and photographs are excellent.


**************************************************

Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner

Bad Munki says : Tied for #1 most useful woodworking book I've ever read. Everybody just assumes "Stain and poly" is just the way you finish a woodworking project because that is the only option. In my very biased opinion, smearing stain ("RBS" or "Reddish Brown poo poo" as one usenet rec.woodworking member called it) is a quick way to make your carefully planned and constructed woodworking project look like poo poo. There are much better ways of finishing your project that will bring out the beauty of the wood and Flexner goes into great detail on the How and Why.


Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking 3 Book Set


Classic Joints With Power Tools by Yeung Chan


The Complete Woodworker's Companion by Roger Holmes


Illustrated Cabinetmaking: How to design and construct furniture that works by Bill Hylton


Traditional Finishing Techniques


Understanding Wood by R.Bruce Hoadley

Bad Munki: "This isn't a book you are going to sit on the toilet and read to pass the time while thinking of your next woodworking project. Think of it as "The Machinery's Handbook" of woodworking. It covers every technical aspect of wood that you can imagine. If you are planning on building a credenza out of pine and cocobolo, this book will tell you exactly what to expect for expansion and contraction movements based on humidity levels. It is a reference manual, and the best there is.

Methods of Work: Workshop: The Best Tips from 25 years of Fine Woodworking

Bad Munki: "There are a few books in this series covering general woodworking ideas, router ideas, tablesaw ideas, bandsaw ideas, etc...
All of the books are excellent. As the title says, they are a collection of reader tips from Fine Woodworking magazine. As I turn through the pages of the books and read the tips, I keep saying to myself, "drat, that's brilliant! I never would have thought of that."


The Workbench Book by Scott Landis

Bad Munki: "My personal favorite woodworking book: . This is a book that you will sit on the toilet and read until you have a dark red ring around your rear end from the toilet seat and realize the rest of your family has gone to bed without you. Each chapter covers a different type of workbench, but it looks at it from the perspective of "What type of woodworking is going on in this time period" and then goes on to describe how they designed workbenches to suit their needs. It will really make you think about what you need based on the type of work you are doing and gives a lot of information on vices (tail vice, end vice, leg vice, etc...) and what they are useful for. It also goes into a lot of the details of construction of benches, but doesn't have measured drawings or plans."


IK Edits:
Old Hand Plane (Stanley) info:

Leperflesh posted:

Supertool is one of the three insane hand plane sites I refer back to regularly. Here are the other two:

https://www.timetestedtools.net/2017/02/05/dating-hand-planes-start-page/
This is a click-through hand plane dating guide

https://woodandshop.com/woodworking-hand-tool-buying-guide-handplanes/#buyblockplane
This is an old hand plane buying guide. At first glance it might look superficial, but: keep scrolling past each interstitial advertisement, because oh, gosh, this is super long actually!

Somebody fucked around with this message at 00:14 on Nov 5, 2021

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ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

I knew absolutely nothing. They way I fell into it was midway into last year I saw the "Build your own speakers guide" in the Audio/Video forum here. I decided it was something I'd like to try, but I had no tools. A trip to Lowes and 900 bucks later I had a Porter Cable plunge/fixed based router, Random Orbital Sander, Dewalt circular saw, Dewalt drill and assorted screws and glues.

When I finished that I was really impressed with how it turned out, and I had something USEFUL to show for it. From there it just snowballed insanely fast. You can learn with nothing more than the internet and books, thats what I did. I get frustrated all the time, something looks really simple to do and I gently caress it up, or I can't get a tool to work precisely right. Its worth the frustration, though. I'm hoping to find someone local who really has some experience to learn from.

The chair probably took 11-12 hours going from rough lumber given to me for free to a chair. The plans called for 3/4 inch wood, so I had to plane it down from 5/4. 5/4 means 5 quarters of an inch, or an inch and quarter. Jointed and straightened everything using my jointer/planer/tablesaw. Used a square to trace gridlines for laying out the curves on the pieces, cut the curves on a bandsaw, the straight lines on a tablesaw and smoothed everything out with a belt/disk sander. I'm still applying spar varnish as we speak. With templates and perfectly square and smooth lumber already at 3/4" the time would probably be a 4-5 hours, maybe. But it would cost an absurd amount, if you've ever noticed how much Lowes and lumberyards charge for S4S lumber. S4S = Surfaced on 4 sides.

Edit: Here are the cutting boards and a box I made to hold pocket screws while trying out my Leigh Dovetail Jig. The screw box is walnut and purpleheart. The tri colored cutting board is Walnut, Jatoba and Curly Maple. The bicolored board is Padauk and Walnut.





ChaoticSeven fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Apr 8, 2008

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

Not an Anthem posted:

I really want to turn mugs or bowls on my school's lathe. Any guides to elementary lathe education? I've had the intro lathe course so I know my way around tools and speeds, but I've only done lathework where the piece was locked on from one side and had the spike on the other. I just like the look of black wood kitchenware.

This should shed a little light on the basics of hollow forms. I haven't invested in a lathe yet, I've heard its a black hole for money. People with very nicely outfitted shops say the lathe and its accoutrement's cost the most cash.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/turning/bwlbsics.html

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

PMan_ posted:

So, have been attempting to learn some basics and terminology and what not so I don't appear to be a total fool when I start my woodworking class. I've watched a lot of the Wood Whisperer videos and poked around at some of the websites from the OP. I'm now wondering if there are any books or magazines I should check out? Or would I not really understand those until I get some actual experience?

Also, can somebody please explain to me what a jig is? I see people talking about jigs everywhere, and I think I have an idea, but I imagine the idea I have is wrong.

And do you have a place to get plans or a how-to guide for those cutting boards? Because they are pretty awesome.

Taunton's Complete Illustrated Guide to Woodworking does a nice job of illustrating (dur) all the basics. You can pick it up at Amazon for around 20 bucks. Magazines? I don't have a subscription to any but I've heard good things about Shopnotes and Woodcraft. Shopnotes seems to be orientated toward jigs and shop furniture more than anything else.

Jigs. I think of jigs as anything constructed or bought by you to make it easier or, in some cases, even possible to do things with tools. A simple example would be cutting a perfectly straight line with a router. Try doing that freehand and come back to me. Now clamp a straighedge to the surface of whatever you wanted to route and let that be your guide as you push the router along. Bam, easy. A jig. There are dovetail jigs for routers, crosscut sleds for table saws which make it easier to crosscut wide boards or glued up panels, 45 degree miter sleds, jigs to mark perfectly spaced holes for shelving pins, featherboards to hold a board against a fence as you cut it. Lots of things are jigs, whether you think of them that way or not.

Those cutting boards are really dead simple. Get 2 or 3 different types of suitable hardwood that is flat and square. Cut the strips to the size you want the various stripes of color to be, slap some waterproof or water resistant glue on the edges and clamp em' up. Tightbond II will work, people used it for years. Tightbond III actually says waterproof on the bottle though, so I use it unless I'm out. After the glue dries you simply trim the edges off perfectly square, cut a finger hole in whatever shape you desire with a router or a forstner bit in a drill press and roundover the edges.

You can use a roundover bit on a router table for that part if you want it really round, or simply break over the edges a bit with hand sanding. Ok, sand the cutting board perfectly flat on both sides, wipe off the dust and apply a metric poo poo ton of "mineral oil". Yep, the stuff you see at the drugstore all the time. Its cheaper to buy it there than at Lowes or something. You can fill a pan with it and drop the whole thing in there, or apply it by wiping on a bunch of coats until it no longer absorbs into the wood. Some people also like to heat the oil on the stove and melt wax into it, and put the board in that mixture. Thats probably the best way to go, but I have yet to do it myself. You can also do "edge grain" cutting boards, which is end grain up instead of the face grain. It wears better, both on the knives and the board because edge grain resembles a million little straws. When you draw a knife across it, the straws simply part out of the way instead of being cut in half like they are on face grain cutting boards. Keeps the knife sharper, longer, and the board looking nicer for a longer time also. Of course, all you have to do to restore a cutting board to its former glory is sand it. Poof, brand new.

The downside to edge grain boards is it's a real bitch to get those things sanded down smooth.

Any other questions just ask, I'm glad to share what little I've picked up in the last few months, totally new to this myself. Right now I'm working on a dovetailed cedar chest, but work has really picked up the last few days and I'm not sure when I'll be able to finish it. I'll try to get pictures of the work in progress up soon.

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

Maddman posted:

I've not done any woodworking since I was in high school, but I finally have a place with an area in the basement I could turn into a workshop and have been thinking of getting into it. I'd like to make a coffee table or two first off, since we need at least one and haven't been able to find any that we liked.

How hard a project would this be, and what tools and equipment am I going to need to get started?

Thanks!

That is sort of difficult to answer. There are pretty simple designs you could put together with mostly pocket screws and the Kreg Jig and then you have complicated mortise and tenon based joinery and cabriolet legs. One thing they all have in common though is that you'll need several clamps to glue up the top panel, and a way to make sure all the wood you use is straight and square, and cut that way when you cut things to size. I've seen nice things built with a straight edge and a circular saw, pocket screws and sandpaper. Maybe look over some designs you might like and I may be able to tell you what you'll need.

Here is my cedar chest. I have yet to make the lid and I still have a lot of sanding and a the finish to apply.





A few things I've learned so far on this project :

1. DO NOT SAND ANYMORE ON THE PANELS AFTER YOU CUT THE DOVETAILS, WAIT UNTIL YOU HAVE THEM ASSEMBLED, YOU loving IDIOT.

2. WHEN YOU DO SAND THE PANELS, PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU SAND THEM FLAT, NOT CONVEX. PANELS THAT AREN'T FLAT ARE A REAL BITCH TO GLUE MITERED TRIM TO AND HAVE IT MEET UP NICELY ON THE EDGES.

3. Fine dust collected from your orbital sander and mixed with blonde shellac makes a really nice gap filler when you forget #1 and #2.

Another book I would recommend is Classic Joints with Power Tools by Yeung Chan. Really well written, thorough and easy to understand book on just about any joint you can think of.

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

Thanks. They aren't handcut, they're just bigger than most you see cut on a jig. I have a Leigh D4R 24" and I ordered the largest bit they make for the stock template. You can make some bigger, but you need the finger joint template to do it, if I remember right. You can do some really thin ones too, for the other end of the spectrum. It requires using shims and stuff that I don't really feel like messing with.

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

Solaron posted:

So I'm confused a little. Did you use a router to cut those or what? I've seen a bunch of different ways listed.

Yes, I used a router and the Leigh D4R dovetail jig, which you can see at the following link. http://www.leighjigs.com/d4.php

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

Yep, I was in those February 5th tornadoes. I've posted pictures in a couple threads about it before.

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

Thats a sweet idea. I really like the picture frame effect. It looks like you have a shitload of wood laying around too.

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

Looks like cedar to me.

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

Got the lid done and a few coats of varnish.



ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

Sasquatch! posted:

My woodworking experience pretty much begins and ends with my MAME arcade cabinet. Dunno if MDF counts as "woodworking" though. :v: But it's something that I've always wanted to get into, so I'll be following some of the links here.

For something just starting to dabble, where do you think money for someone on a limited budget would be best spent? I have a (non-plunge) router, circular saw, jigsaw, miter saw. I'm guessing a table saw? Or a plunge router? Any recommendations on makes/models (in the vein of "good quality for a home hobbiest")?

Yep, in your position I'd be looking for a tablesaw. If you want new, but still affordable and won't go to poo poo I'd look at Grizzly. I have two of the bandsaws, 6inch jointer and the contractor saw. Haven't had any problems out of any of them.

If you're going with a contractor saw try :

http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Table-Saw-1-1-2-HP-Single-Phase-110V/G0444

If you're looking for a cabinet saw, which actually takes up less room due to the motor not hanging off the back, offers more power and dust collection that doesn't...suck take a look at this :

http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Table-Saw-3-HP-Single-Phase-220V-Left-Tilt/G1023SL

I wish I'd saved my pennies a little while longer and got the cabinet saw personally. But I didn't have 220 at the time and also didn't know how long I'd stick with it. Also, although I recommended the GO444 contractor saw if you took the next step up to the GO444Z you get cast iron wings, which I'd prefer over the painted steel wings on the GO444. Extra half horse power too.

I think one of the best woodworking investments is a Starrett 12" combination square. Sure, it look expensive compared to the 5 dollar ones at Lowes but it will be absolutely square, stay absolutely square and feels like sex. Plus, you can use the head to set your tablesaw blade to 90 and 45.

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

Yeah, the best combination blade (ripping and crosscutting) I've tried so far is the Forrest Woodworker II 40 Tooth. The kerf width is up to you. Thin kerf .100 blades are supposed to help ease cutting thick material on lower powered tablesaws. Some people say the trade-off to that is the blade can deflect, or bend tiny amounts during the cut causing it to be somewhat rougher that a full kerf blade. I've had the opportunity to see both in action, and to be honest I couldn't tell the difference in cut quality. I use the thin kerf, friend has a cabinet saw and I got him the full kerf. Both are $90ish right now at Amazon, and you can get those particular blades as low as $79 if you keep an eye on them.

I've found the thin kerf drops in price more often.

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

I've been swamped lately so I've been having to steal minutes (literally) here and there to work in the shop. I've started working on a torsion box assembly table to replace my current laughable workbench made from construction lumber. Heres the gridwork with the bottom in place. I've gotten more than this accomplished, but I won't have any more pictures till tomorrow sometimes.

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

Got the plans from the wood whisperer site,with a few mods of my own. I'll have to do the doors and drawers later, but its functional for now.





ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

It is really heavy. About 2 and a half sheets of 3/4" MDF, then the cherry edging and a sheet of 1/4" hardboard for the replaceable top. Solid as a rock though, and I love it. Such a huge improvement over the old thing I knocked up when I first bought my circular saw, hammer and router 9 months ago. I like just looking at it :)

Now if I had time to use it...

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

PMan_ posted:

Okay, here's another question. As we know, I’m new to woodworking and had initially wanted to plane my boards down using hand planes. Since then… Well, planers are looking better and better. As far as jointing goes, I figured I could just use the table saw to get a minuscule amount off.

I was thinking about getting one of those $250 Grizzly planers, but then I saw this on Craigslist for $90, a 6 1/8" Jointer/Planer:

http://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/tls/735970990.html

Having not much money in the woodworking budget at the moment, this seems pretty nice. My question is, can this actually be used for planing boards, as well as jointing, and how would it work for that as opposed to having an actual planer?

I have found some information on it thanks to google, but I would definitely appreciate any insight offered here.

I don't see how that thing converts to a planer. It just looks like a run of the mill benchtop jointer to me. Maybe I'm wrong, though.

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

Finished up this today. A relative asked me to make a couple end tables out these old foot operated sewing machine bases. I took all the old wood off, used a brass bristle brush chucked into my drill and cleaned it up for as long as I was willing. Some gloss lacquer to finish. The top is walnut with a cove profile.





ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

What he's doing there is face jointing. You joint a face, then an edge using the face to reference. That gets you one 90 degree angle. Chomper explained that although you can flatten the opposite side too, it won't be parallel to the first face. You'll end up with a wedge.

The reason you can't just use a planer to make a board perfectly square is because the infeed rollers flatten any bow/cup out before it hits the blades. The board comes out the other end, thinner, yet still bowed or cupped. If you've jointed a face first, though, you place that fat face down on the planer and feed it through. Theres no bow or cup to press out, since its already flat. That allows the planer to flatten the other face, and do it so its parallel. The final edge can be squared using a tablesaw. Place the jointed edge against the fence and feed it through so that the entire opposite edge is trimmed by the blade.

You CAN, however, make a sled that allows you to joint boards with a planer. It uses a sheet of ply as wide as your planers capacity. You use shims underneath the board, resting on the sled, to make sure the board doesn't rock and has nowhere to go when the rollers try to press on it. I had some links but I lost like 3 years of bookmarks the other day. I'll try to find the page with illustrations/plans if I can find them.

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

Vander posted:



All done. I went with dye in the end. Had to wait a WHOLE 3 DAYS for it to get here. Took forever, I know.

Anyway, how do they look? And how can I go about preserving them?

Looks cool. I can't tell how smooth those are, and you probably want to preserve the lettering. But for a tough and easy to apply finish go to Lowes/Home Depot and get a can of wipe on polyurethane. I usually use a piece of old t-shirt to apply it, but I have used name brand paper towels in a pinch. I wouldn't use terribly cheap ones though, they leave lint and tear too easily.

If you don't care about the lettering sand to around 180ish and apply.

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

Walnut/Padauk + new camera.

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

I [i]finally[/img] have time to get in the shop again. I decided to do an endgrain cutting board. I'll probably end up making lots of these for Christmas gifts, it'll be fun to try different designs and woods. Thing is though, these things are a BITCH to sand. Also picked up a cabinet saw to take advantage of the live.com+Ebay thing. I love it, even if it did end up costing me almost as much as I saved. When I was aligning the blade and miter slot, I forgot to remove my dial indicator and slammed the fence into it. Snapped the interchangeable tip right off in the arm of the indicator. $130 bucks down the drain.



ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

Another, bigger cutting board and a sewing machine table.



Zero clearance insert for the new saw. Also, I have to remake all my jigs because the miter slots are slightly different on this one. I started with the cross cut sled.





ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

Hey, thanks. The one up front is walnut and cherry. The one behind is the other I posted before. Cherry, walnut and jatoba.

Zero clearance inserts help eliminate tear out and keep small cut off pieces from dropping down between the blade and the rather large gap that exists with the standard or stock inserts. With the standard insert if you have an off cut smaller than a half inch or so, its all to likely it'll get wedged or hit the blade at a bad angle when falling down into the saw. This usually ends up with said piece making both of your eyeballs explode in a shower of blood and gelatinous goo or impaling you through the heart.

Both of those things have happened to me multiple times in the past.

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

Decided to finish this...free form table I started last year when I basically only had a circular saw and a hand full over other things. Got it flat, finally, thanks to the drum sander. I'm totally stumped as to what to use for legs or which way to mount them. Somehow I don't think nice square legs with double tapers will look quite right with this thing...







ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

Yep, coffee table. I originally planned on a clear poly finish, but after seeing a piece of slab cedar finished that way it seemed too bright and pink. I use a spar varnish on my Adirondack chairs, and I also used it on my cedar chest I posted awhile back. It really tones down the cedar, takes out the bright white and pink and gives some warmth. Still shows the grain nicely though.

What I'm saying is, the final piece will mostly be darker in color much browner. Today I looked out back in the giant woodpile I have left after the tornado rolled through and found a nice cherry crotch piece. It has two legs, but they're cut close to the Y. So unless I cut them off even and flipped the piece upside down they wouldn't really show. I chiseled most of the bark off today, I'm not sure how it will work with the cedar top when finished though. Another thing I'm trying to figure out is how exactly to cut this giant cherry crotch to be flat on the bottom and legs...Chainsaw might get me in the ball park but after that I'm lost.

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

Golden War posted:

Im planning on making a nice cribbage board out of some leftover hickory. I'm wondering what's the best way to make a place for storing the pegs inside the board. I have a commercially made board that has a spot routed into the bottom with a little metal cover that slides into a groove. Id like to do something like this, or anything that would look nice, but I'm not really sure how to get started.

If the board is elevated on legs the only idea that sprang immediately to mind is... You know those electric griddles that have a grease catcher underneath, that slides in on a t-shaped track? You could take some 1"x1" strips, route a t-slot in it, and make a box large enough for the pegs to fit. Use a dado blade on the sides of the box leaving about a 1/4 at the top to slide into the grooves on the stock you cut earlier. You'd just mount them under the board. Thats my idea anyway.

I decided to try some boxes that weren't bandsawn. Still trying to figure out what to use for hinges, and what to use for a catch on the front. I have no idea how to mount hinges or do the mortises either. Any ideas?





ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

Thanks. I actually have a decent set of chisels but I've only used them to scrape dried glue lines on panels, sadly. I might just chicken out and use some of those hinges you just nail into place with little brass nails. With my pathetic chiseling knowledge I'm afraid I'd gauge way too deep and peel a strip half the length of the back off or something.

The dovetails were cut with the Leigh D4R. I got it earlier this year but haven't had the time to use it much. Did some dovetails in a couple solid cedar blanket chests, referring back to the (massive) reference manual at each step. I really like it, I can tell once I have everything set in my mind I could crank out dovetailed drawers and such at almost production speeds.

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

Golden War posted:

I'll think about that. Sounds tough though, for me anyway.

Another question: A family friend recently had to take down a black walnut tree and I went to help saw it up. I cut a few 2-3" cookies off with the chainsaw in hopes of using them for something, maybe a stool, clock, or cutting board maybe. However I'm wondering if these things are likely to split once they dry out. Is there a good way to prevent this short of buying a wood drying kiln or is this something I even need to worry about?

If it's anything like red cedar it'll split pretty deep before it stops drying. Mostly around the sapwood. Theres got to be a way around that, because I've seen cross section tables and such. Maybe treating them with green wood sealer on the faces would slow the drying process, but it might take a long while before you'd be able to use it.

Finished the box, the mortises weren't as bad as I thought they'd be. Locating the ones for the lid after cutting the ones in the base seemed to be way too fussy, probably some trick I don't know to do it fast and accurately. I need to learn how to sharpen chisels, too.



ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

Nacho Cheez posted:

You guys are building some very nice stuff. I just finished this end table out of cherry.



I am going to build a sled like ChaoticSeven has next.

Thats a cool little end table. Perfect for a plant or something like that. Did you make it up or did you find a plan somewhere?

Anyway, finished flat work box number 2. Couple more coats of wipe on poly and I'll call it good.

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

A riving knife as I understand it maintains a constant relative distance and height behind the blade. If you raise the blade three inches above the table, the knife is still whatever fraction of an inch under the blade height as it was if you set the blade to 1/2 inch. Of course it also tilts with the blade and is hopefully easy to pop on and off. I forget the cutoff date is, but all newly designed saws intended for sale in the US are required to have a riving knife.

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

IsaacNewton posted:

This looks cool, but aren't you concerned that the wood shrinks / swell over time and make it not flush to the table?

Not too much, both sides are exposed to open air and its pretty low in moisture content, so it shouldn't do too much crazy twisting or warping. If it does swell slightly in thickness my workpiece would bump into it before even reaching the blade. I put the leveling screws in and made it thinner than it needed to be in case that happens.

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

Same source different format :) Wood Magazine put together a book which consisted mainly of techniques and projects from the magazine over the years. I bought that book. I keep meaning to get a sub to several woodworking publications but I just never seem to do it. I'm thinking of doing two more, one walnut/maple and another walnut/padauk.

Did you have the same problem I had with the handle bracket shaping? I kept applying uneven pressure and sanding the angles at a skew.

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

Stain before inlay.

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

Kat the Irish posted:

Ah, woodworking thread. Thanks OP.

I now live in Egypt and my woodworking hobbies are no more, due to time constraints, tools being super expensive, and I have no space for it. This thread really makes me want to move back to actually do all the ideas I've had lately.

Nevertheless, I'll post the last stuff I did. So this box was made like three years ago. Covered in leather. And the two strips on the top I actually bent the old fashioned hot-water-and-dry-way

In progress


And the completed


Nice. I've been seeing treasure chest type boxes here there the last couple weeks. Gives me the itch to make one.

Also, if anyone has some resource or guide or some such I'd be happy to add it to the OP, I'm about to remove those horrid cell phone pictures and stuff soon anyway.

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

Had some walnut scraps I needed to use due to "sentimental" reasons.

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

If the thought that the Incra Fences are designed for contractor saws is holding you back from getting a cabinet saw, well don't let it. Fences are all pretty much mounted the same, a few bolt holes in the table. You could get a Grizzly 1023 and stick a mobile base under it for around 1000 bucks if you go through their Ebay store and use cashback. It's a nice hunk o' saw.

I'm going to be making a couple dozen of these and shopping them around, money be running low and I need to make some extra cash.

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

You can adjust the balance point by moving the neck of the bottle in and out. It's supposed to be able to balance full and empty and any point in between. I don't drink generally, but I guess I'll have to drink this awesome $6.99 bottle of wine for science.

ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

Lord_Xar posted:

Hey ChaoticSeven,

Been trying to figure out gifts for a few people this year and I just saw that box and was wondering if you had plans for it or just made it on a whim. Any advice on making that would be awesome.

I just made it up as I went. I don't know where you're coming from as far as experience and tooling goes so I'll just throw a few things out. The dovetails I cut with a dovetail jig. I use the Leigh D4R. If you don't have a jig take a look at this website : http://www2.gol.com/users/nhavens/htmlfile/dt1-e.html

It takes a beginners approach to hand cut dovetails. The rest is basic box making, making sure the members of both sides are exactly equal and square. For some tips on cutting hinge mortises look a little further back in this thread previous to the box picture where I asked about it and got some help.

Making a few of these,maple and cherry. The cherry is thicker than the maple so the holder is slightly elevated when not on a pillow :



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ChaoticSeven
Aug 11, 2005

So has anyone been making anything at all? I haven't been able to do anything much due to moving to another state and setting up the new house and shop. Still don't have my dust collection set up. Only thing I've made since Christmas is this box I started keeping seeds in. Meh.

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