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Gaza
Jul 16, 2008

3toes posted:

Could try a POG or Micro POG as well and crank the sub-octave.

And how the hell do you even have enough tension on the strings to get any kind of sound other than a wet fart with Drop A and G?

7 string guitars with the thickest strings I can find. It works and it worked before even using 6 stringers, only to Drop A though.

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Zakalwe
May 12, 2002

Wanted For:
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I play drop C on one of my guitars and I needed to make up a custom set from 12-60 to get something approaching normal tension. Below B the strings get too floppy for my tastes.

Gaza
Jul 16, 2008

Zakalwe posted:

I play drop C on one of my guitars and I needed to make up a custom set from 12-60 to get something approaching normal tension. Below B the strings get too floppy for my tastes.

I can confirm that its a bitch with 6 strings, but I have never had a need to play a tuning above drop c, so I'm used to it I guess.

Gaza
Jul 16, 2008
Does the micro POG track quick distortion well? Tremolo picking and the like.

Agreed
Dec 30, 2003

The price of meat has just gone up, and your old lady has just gone down

Demolisher posted:

Does the micro POG track quick distortion well? Tremolo picking and the like.

Probably, but I bet you'd get better results putting it before your distortion than after it.

internet celebrity
Jun 23, 2006

College Slice

3toes posted:

Could try a POG or Micro POG as well and crank the sub-octave.


I got a Micro POG for this reason and it doesn't work very well.

Other applications sound awesome, but not the super downtuned metal sound.

Gaza
Jul 16, 2008

hamaien posted:

I got a Micro POG for this reason and it doesn't work very well.

Other applications sound awesome, but not the super downtuned metal sound.


Thanks for this, I checked it out and I thought "that would be cool for melodic higher stuff, but maybe not for the down tuned stuff" and for 200ish dollars that's a no. All the pedals I am seeing demoed are in the higher end so I'm really unsure about them. I think I can find a massive lower end outside of effects pedals with a 15 inch amp and some tweaking.

the wizards beard
Apr 15, 2007
Reppin

4 LIFE 4 REAL

Zakalwe posted:

I play drop C on one of my guitars and I needed to make up a custom set from 12-60 to get something approaching normal tension. Below B the strings get too floppy for my tastes.

I know some guys who play Doom in C standard on 13s, but that's going for a "normal" sounding tone and string tension, not a brutal sound.

Scarf
Jun 24, 2005

On sight
You should try a double-muff :D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k1Mkgqu6LJE

or even the little big muff

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xSVoH0ctoc

Scarf fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Oct 15, 2008

the wizards beard
Apr 15, 2007
Reppin

4 LIFE 4 REAL
I missed one of those for €25, really pissed.

Gaza
Jul 16, 2008
I spoke to soon:

Micro Metal Muff
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOPR_O57VaU&feature=user

I will keep that in the back of my mind.

Can someone explain to me the advantage of using noise suppressors like this one?

http://guitars.musiciansfriend.com/product/Boss-NS2-Noise-Suppressor-Pedal?sku=151331

Gaza fucked around with this message at 18:05 on Oct 15, 2008

the wizards beard
Apr 15, 2007
Reppin

4 LIFE 4 REAL
A noise gate will mute your guitar when you are not playing - so when your signal goes below a certain threshold level it shuts it off. If you play with high-gain this is really useful because any small sound would otherwise end up as an amplified distorted sound, and noise can turn into hiss or feedback.

It's pretty hard to play tight, clean start-stop metal rhythms without a gate.

Gaza
Jul 16, 2008

the wizards beard posted:

A noise gate will mute your guitar when you are not playing - so when your signal goes below a certain threshold level it shuts it off. If you play with high-gain this is really useful because any small sound would otherwise end up as an amplified distorted sound, and noise can turn into hiss or feedback.

It's pretty hard to play tight, clean start-stop metal rhythms without a gate.

Well lets say I record everything to an 8 track Which I have done and if I want to add the noise gate in cubase will it compare to the quality of using one while recording?

the wizards beard
Apr 15, 2007
Reppin

4 LIFE 4 REAL
Probably not if you recorded the guitars with distortion. The noise is already there, a gate wouldn't help much. You could manually edit the spaces between notes, but that would be difficult and time-consuming.

If you have recordings try it, I don't think it would work very well but I could be wrong.

Gaza
Jul 16, 2008

the wizards beard posted:

Probably not if you recorded the guitars with distortion. The noise is already there, a gate wouldn't help much. You could manually edit the spaces between notes, but that would be difficult and time-consuming.

If you have recordings try it, I don't think it would work very well but I could be wrong.

I already remove the over 2 second pauses if nothing is going on. I'm going to see what I can do.

the wizards beard
Apr 15, 2007
Reppin

4 LIFE 4 REAL
Yeah, the gate should remove the noise between every note. Check out some youtube videos of the Boss NS-2 or the ISP Decimator, noise gates are one of the few effects where youtube demos are pretty reliable.

Gaza
Jul 16, 2008

the wizards beard posted:

Yeah, the gate should remove the noise between every note. Check out some youtube videos of the Boss NS-2 or the ISP Decimator, noise gates are one of the few effects where youtube demos are pretty reliable.

Doing that now, thanks for the input, and thanks for everyone's 2 cents.

Oh and I'm a big idiot for not posting this before, but the song "Thirteen" by recon is generally the sound I'm looking for

http://www.myspace.com/recon

(hope that's not a big derail)

Gaza fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Oct 15, 2008

internet celebrity
Jun 23, 2006

College Slice
So I need (want) a fuzz pedal now that I have everything else I needed (wanted). Seeing as how there are probably a few thousand choices out there, where is a good starting point? Other than Devi Ever and Zvex, what are some good fuzz brands out there?

Also, is there anyone who makes a clone of Zvex's Machine pedal?

Zakalwe
May 12, 2002

Wanted For:
  • Terrorism
  • Kidnapping
  • Poor Taste
  • Unlawful Carnal Gopher Knowledge

hamaien posted:

So I need (want) a fuzz pedal now that I have everything else I needed (wanted). Seeing as how there are probably a few thousand choices out there, where is a good starting point? Other than Devi Ever and Zvex, what are some good fuzz brands out there?

Also, is there anyone who makes a clone of Zvex's Machine pedal?

My only experience of this pedal is youtube, but it sounds great to me.

Frantone Cream Puff

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=15CROjPbddA

Agreed
Dec 30, 2003

The price of meat has just gone up, and your old lady has just gone down

hamaien posted:

So I need (want) a fuzz pedal now that I have everything else I needed (wanted). Seeing as how there are probably a few thousand choices out there, where is a good starting point? Other than Devi Ever and Zvex, what are some good fuzz brands out there?

Also, is there anyone who makes a clone of Zvex's Machine pedal?

Go to https://www.fuzzhugger.com. They're a great seller, carry Devi Ever, Mellowtone, and Pro Tone pedals. Every pedal page has a video review, usually more than one, and many have other sound clips as well. They're a pleasure to buy from and if you email 'em they'll be able to help you pick a fuzz (if listening to the clips doesn't help).

For my money, the two best fuzzes I've ever used are the Aramat Effects Mojo Fuzz and the Pro Tone Monster.

The Aramat Mojo Fuzz is a modified Fuzz Face pedal using NOS Germanium transistors, but Keith (the guy behind the company) passed away a few months back so you're stuck looking for a used one. However, the Dunlop big round blue Jimi Hendrix Fuzz Face (silicon transistor) sounds amazing too, and has a hotter sound if that's what you're after. Very nice reissue, they finally got it right.

I am also quite fond of the Singing Tree Overdrive for a choppy, sputtery fuzz that, at max gain, makes lovely square waves out of lower notes on the guitar but just overdrives higher notes (very flexible pedal since it has a voltage divider control, really tweaks the gain).

Earlier I mentioned the Pro Tone Monster. It is a Muff-style fuzz, but its range of gain starts where the Big Muff maxes out, and goes to absurd heights of spitting, raging, gated fuzz roar. I keep the gain around noon for a hellacious high gain fuzz tone that still has definition for chords and lower register riffing. If I could only have one fuzz, it'd be a hard pick between this one and the Aramat Mojo Fuzz.

A totally worthy contender in the very low price bracket, however, is the Danelectro Cool Cat Fuzz. Seriously, that pedal rocks. It's $25. Here are some clips.







Sounds so much better than a $25 pedal has any right to, and it's got true bypass switching and quality components inside its metal case (with metal jacks). You've got a choice: a couple pizzas, or a Cool Cat Fuzz. I think you know what to do.

the wizards beard
Apr 15, 2007
Reppin

4 LIFE 4 REAL

hamaien posted:

So I need (want) a fuzz pedal now that I have everything else I needed (wanted). Seeing as how there are probably a few thousand choices out there, where is a good starting point? Other than Devi Ever and Zvex, what are some good fuzz brands out there?

Also, is there anyone who makes a clone of Zvex's Machine pedal?

Zvex is pretty aggressive about protecting his IP, if you do find someone who'll do a clone it'll probably be a wink-wink under the table deal.

internet celebrity
Jun 23, 2006

College Slice
I guess I should have included what specifically I was looking for. Basically, I want the most hosed up, textured, sputtering, 'gently caress you in the rear end and not call you the next day' fuzz. Bonus if you can switch it or roll it off and get a more normal fuzz sound. I've got an octave pedal so I have no need for an octave function.

ZombiePeanut
May 11, 2007

by Fistgrrl

hamaien posted:

I guess I should have included what specifically I was looking for. Basically, I want the most hosed up, textured, sputtering, 'gently caress you in the rear end and not call you the next day' fuzz. Bonus if you can switch it or roll it off and get a more normal fuzz sound. I've got an octave pedal so I have no need for an octave function.

It kind of sounds like you want a big muff or something similar. There's a lot of settings on them that get all sputtery and weird, and they're also pretty raunchy sounding in general.

Zakalwe
May 12, 2002

Wanted For:
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  • Kidnapping
  • Poor Taste
  • Unlawful Carnal Gopher Knowledge
Zvex's fuzz factory does all that. It can do fuzzface to completely whacked out sounds because it's basically just a germanium fuzzface with a simple input buffer and some resistors replaced with pots.

Isnak
Sep 15, 2006
Bonyour!
I was wondering about the EH Bass Metaphors. Mostly I want to get it to DI straight into a PA/practice with headphones without having to drop at least twice as much on an amp modeler/multi-effects processor, it would just be a convenience but if there are any better options out there for poor bassists let me know.

internet celebrity
Jun 23, 2006

College Slice
I think I found it, gentlemen. Has anyone used a Catalinbread V8?

Scarf
Jun 24, 2005

On sight

Isnak posted:

I was wondering about the EH Bass Metaphors. Mostly I want to get it to DI straight into a PA/practice with headphones without having to drop at least twice as much on an amp modeler/multi-effects processor, it would just be a convenience but if there are any better options out there for poor bassists let me know.

Well really the only "multi-effects" from it are a compressor and distortion. I love EHX products, but in terms of a DI+preamp+drive I'd much rather go for a Tech21 Sansamp Bass-Driver if compression isn't that important to you.

http://bass-guitars.musiciansfriend.com/product/Tech-21-SansAmp-Bass-Driver-DI?sku=480206

Isnak
Sep 15, 2006
Bonyour!
That looks like a much better option, but I just stumbled upon the MXR M-80 and now I can't decide which to get. I'm an indecisive bastard, somebody sway me either way.

Nigel Tufnel
Jan 4, 2005
You can't really dust for vomit.
Should my Boss DD6 go before or after my Zoom G9.2tt (floorboard amp modeler / FX pedal)? Or should it go in my FX loop? Should my G9.2tt go in my FX loop? So confused.

Agreed
Dec 30, 2003

The price of meat has just gone up, and your old lady has just gone down

G9.2tt can go wherever you need it to depending on how you're using it. If you're using it as a preamp with its various amp models, you might want to run it directly before the power amp of your guitar amplifier (guitar into your G9.2tt input, and its output directly into the amp's Effects Return to bypass the amp's preamp section). If you're using it for stompbox models (Klon/DS1/OD1/Muff/etc.) and/or wah, you'll probably want to run it into the front of your amp. If you're using it for effects only and you like how your amp's own distortion sounds, then you'll want to run your amp's FX Send into the G9.2tt's input, and run the G9.2tt's output into your FX Return. You can also use the 4-cable method, but that's more than I think you want to get into really - if you do, though, google it and you'll learn all you need to in order to make it work.

As for the DD6, I usually put delay after everything but before distortion. If you're using it with the G9.2tt with amp modeling and cabinet simulation on (direct into the PA, for example), then you're going to want to run the delay in the G9.2tt's own effects loop. If you're using it all into the front of an amp, you'll probably want to use the DD-6 in your amp's effects loop.

Scarf
Jun 24, 2005

On sight
Ok resurrecting this thread.

Scarf posted:

I think some of my tax refund is going towards this:



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xr8kdWpB3U4

Given that I just bought this and would essentially like for it to serve more as a preamp for my current rig... Can I put this in the effects loop and leave my chain as is? Or the other way around?

Help.

Tetris Crowley
Aug 17, 2007
who wants waffles!?
Anyone care to enlighten me on Visual Sound's products?

I'm looking at the Jekyll & Hyde, and the H2O

Info about any of their other products would also be appreciated

schizorage
Dec 26, 2005

OopsIpwntMyWaffles posted:

Anyone care to enlighten me on Visual Sound's products?

I'm looking at the Jekyll & Hyde, and the H2O

Info about any of their other products would also be appreciated

I have both of them. The Jekyll & Hyde is a great pedal. The OD side is a TS-808 clone, and it's spot on. The bass boost has been useless in my experience, but then again that's not really my thing. I initially dismissed the Hyde as just another clippy distortion, but over time I've found that it's a pretty versatile distortion box, especially with the sharp/blunt switch. It goes from a gritty distortion to a fuzzed out high gain sound, and it's actually very nice.

The H2O has a great chorus effect, but I have the older model without the lush switch. The echo is good for very subtle echo effects, but don't buy it expecting to get any real delay sounds out of it (I've got a separate analog delay for anything beyond subtlety, but I can't replace the echo effects I get from the H2O.)

These pedals are very well built and substantial, which is great. My only, only complaint is that they have rubber bottoms and it's loving impossible to affix them to a pedal board with velcro.

That reminds me, could someone point me in the direction of that chain link method for mounting pedals to a board? I really need to remedy my pedals-falling-all-over-the-loving-place issue that I have when I carry my board around.

an AOL chatroom
Oct 3, 2002

schizorage posted:

I have both of them. The Jekyll & Hyde is a great pedal. The OD side is a TS-808 clone, and it's spot on. The bass boost has been useless in my experience, but then again that's not really my thing. I initially dismissed the Hyde as just another clippy distortion, but over time I've found that it's a pretty versatile distortion box, especially with the sharp/blunt switch. It goes from a gritty distortion to a fuzzed out high gain sound, and it's actually very nice.

The H2O has a great chorus effect, but I have the older model without the lush switch. The echo is good for very subtle echo effects, but don't buy it expecting to get any real delay sounds out of it (I've got a separate analog delay for anything beyond subtlety, but I can't replace the echo effects I get from the H2O.)

These pedals are very well built and substantial, which is great. My only, only complaint is that they have rubber bottoms and it's loving impossible to affix them to a pedal board with velcro.

That reminds me, could someone point me in the direction of that chain link method for mounting pedals to a board? I really need to remedy my pedals-falling-all-over-the-loving-place issue that I have when I carry my board around.

Seconding the Visual Sound pedals. I had a J&H, and it's an absolute killer. It's one of the better Tube Screamer pedals out there, and the Hyde channel isn't too bad either.

The bike chain link method is what I use. Basically, you need a bike chain and chain tool like this one, although if you go to a bike shop and ask for a few spare links, they might just give them to you for free. You also might be able to find something similar at a hardware store if you check out the random-metal-fasteners-and-latches aisle.

Anyway, you just unscrew the corner screws from the bottom of a pedal, put the screw through one of the eyes of the link, and then put it back into the screw hole. You're basically putting "ears" on the pedal. Boss pedals are ridiculously easy to do this to. MXR and EHX use bigger screws, so you may need to drill out the hole a little bit.

You can do all four corners for a very secure fit, 2 eyes in alternating corners, or two on the top/bottom. If you're using two links instead of four, bending them up or down slightly may help keep the pedal fastened to the board more securely. The only real drawback is that if you want to take a pedal off, it requires a screwdriver and maybe a pair of pliers if you use bolts on the back.

Col.Kiwi
Dec 28, 2004
And the grave digger puts on the forceps...

bisticles posted:

Anyway, you just unscrew the corner screws from the bottom of a pedal, put the screw through one of the eyes of the link, and then put it back into the screw hole. You're basically putting "ears" on the pedal. Boss pedals are ridiculously easy to do this to. MXR and EHX use bigger screws, so you may need to drill out the hole a little bit.
Seconding the chain link method, it works very well. I'm still using the board I made with the chain links you sent me in the mail. (Random goon generosity)

What kind of drill bit should one use to widen the holes for pedals with larger screws? Just recently I bought an MXR Carbon Copy and I haven't gotten around to mounting it on the board yet.

Rkelly
Sep 7, 2003
Get a h2o I used to have one and I can't think of why I got rid of it. Oh yeah it got stole. Buy one. Maybe you can get my old one off ebay with even knowing it!

Seriously good chorus. If I didn't go all software I would have another one. Bitch makes some deep underwaterness with a strat.

an AOL chatroom
Oct 3, 2002

Col.Kiwi posted:

Seconding the chain link method, it works very well. I'm still using the board I made with the chain links you sent me in the mail. (Random goon generosity)

What kind of drill bit should one use to widen the holes for pedals with larger screws? Just recently I bought an MXR Carbon Copy and I haven't gotten around to mounting it on the board yet.

Awesome. It's starting to get warmer out here, and I just ordered another bicycle chain. I should have a whole bunch more spare links soon if anyone's interested.

Anyway, I'm not sure what size drill bit I used, just... bigger than the current hole. Also, I used a bench vice to hold half of the link while drilling through it, since it'd be impossible to hold it in place otherwise.

The MXR boxes can be tough, and sometimes the screws are just barely long enough to hold the bottom panel in place, let alone have room for a chain link. For my MXR/CAE-401 boost, I had to take the screws to a hardware store, find matching screws that were longer, and trim them down to the right length with a dremel.

I'll post pictures later on of how I mounted my RAT to the board. That was a bit of a puzzle.

schizorage
Dec 26, 2005

bisticles posted:

Awesome. It's starting to get warmer out here, and I just ordered another bicycle chain. I should have a whole bunch more spare links soon if anyone's interested.

Anyway, I'm not sure what size drill bit I used, just... bigger than the current hole. Also, I used a bench vice to hold half of the link while drilling through it, since it'd be impossible to hold it in place otherwise.

The MXR boxes can be tough, and sometimes the screws are just barely long enough to hold the bottom panel in place, let alone have room for a chain link. For my MXR/CAE-401 boost, I had to take the screws to a hardware store, find matching screws that were longer, and trim them down to the right length with a dremel.

I'll post pictures later on of how I mounted my RAT to the board. That was a bit of a puzzle.


I'm going to have to check out how I've got all this poo poo done once I get home. I've got 9 pedals to secure, and a tuner (that one's going to be loving impossible.) and I'm not sure how many are going to have to be moved ever so slightly to get the bike chain method to work.

an AOL chatroom
Oct 3, 2002

I took some pictures to better show how you can use bike chain links to fasten pedals.


Start with a bike chain. This one happens to be new, so I'm just taking a few off the end. The rest will go on a bike, if you can imagine that.


Chain goes into the link tool, where the cylinder-looking dealie is screwed down and pushes the rivet out that holds the links together.


The bit of chain that got pulled off and the rivet that held it on.


After pushing out the other rivet, we're left with two smooth (outer) links, two ridged (inner) links, two little washer type thingies, and two rivets. You could use the inner links on a pedal, but it takes up more space on the screw.


Attach the links underneath the pedal's corner screws thusly. It'd probably be a good idea to put a drop of a light-strength threadlock in here to keep the screw from backing out after time, but I've never had a problem.


With the link "ears" all hooked up, the pedal can be fastened onto the board. I used cheap little zinc screws and bolts that came in a baggie at Lowes for like $3. You can see how there is a bit of a bend to the ears on the TS9 next to the tuner pedal, as I'm only using two links.

Hope that helps! And if anyone wants some links, I can send you a few. Hit me up in a PM or something for details.

schizorage posted:

I'm going to have to check out how I've got all this poo poo done once I get home. I've got 9 pedals to secure, and a tuner (that one's going to be loving impossible.) and I'm not sure how many are going to have to be moved ever so slightly to get the bike chain method to work.

Sometimes a little creative bending is required. Here's how my OCD is stuck on there:

an AOL chatroom fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Apr 7, 2009

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Nelsocracy
Nov 25, 2004
Indubitably!
What do you guys use your delay pedals for typically? People constantly mention to me that I need to get one, but I borrowed one from a friend before and couldn't find any use for it really. I guess it's good for some really out there or echo kind of stuff but I play straight up jazz. A friend of mine was saying they can be good to use as a kind of reverb?

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