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Flyndre posted:Yikes a Hasselblad 500CM in nice condition is out for a decent price on my local market place (for the second time in fact, and I regretted not hitting it the first time) It's pretty and takes good photographs. You came to the wrong thread to be convinced not to buy it.
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Jan 4, 2022 11:12
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Flyndre posted:Yikes a Hasselblad 500CM in nice condition is out for a decent price on my local market place (for the second time in fact, and I regretted not hitting it the first time) You're going to need a scanner, and might be good to Google around and see where the closest place to drop film off is.
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Jan 4, 2022 17:40
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it's a very well made camera that will last you forever. i've never CLA'd mine and while the focus ring feels muddy to focus the camera works fine without issues. that being said i haven't used in years because i prefer the look of 6x7. do you want a 6x6 camera or do you just think you want it?
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Jan 4, 2022 23:31
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Flyndre posted:Yikes a Hasselblad 500CM in nice condition is out for a decent price on my local market place (for the second time in fact, and I regretted not hitting it the first time) I picked up my 500C/M for a roadtrip over the last few days, and after 6 months of doing large format wet plate collodion I was bowled over with what a simple and seamless photo taking tool it is. I've only run a handful of rolls through it over the last ~7 years or so and was thinking of selling it, now I'm looking at adding a 150mm Sonnar to my kit. I've decided to hold off and maybe save it as a reward for after I've done my first print; got everything together for a darkroom + the next few weeks off work, so want to see how I enjoy that process before I commit more resources to it. I do like the look from doing wet plate (not to mention the immediate feedback), and the challenge is part of the enjoyment I get out of it, but having something more... portable would definitely be nice for other situations. I have a V750 that I've almost got working (need to finish dialing in my BetterScanning holder, and pony up for Silverfast), but I was pretty happy with a V500 for a long time before that. Many people are also happy with using a DSLR or mirrorless to digitise their 120. Neither solution should break the bank; I do recommend getting some way to digitise them early on as lab scans can really add up quickly. B&W is cheap and easy to develop at home, and I've heard good things about the 2-bath C-41 kits. The nice thing about a Hasselblad (or just about any film camera these days) is that they hold their value reasonably well. As long as you get an OK deal on it and it's not broken, you aren't really risking too much financially.
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Jan 5, 2022 07:18
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I severely overestimated the quality of lab scans when I started out with film, so I bought a refurbished V850 after literally two rolls, and I am much happier now.
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Jan 5, 2022 15:35
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How are the Plustek 8X00s for scanning? Edit: or the V600?
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Jan 5, 2022 15:39
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dupersaurus posted:How are the Plustek 8X00s for scanning? i have an 8200i and its great, you have to sit by it and advance each frame which kind of sucks, but the quality is good and i just watch a tv show while doing it. obviously you can only do 35mm with it. v600 is a good option if you need to scan medium format, but if all you shoot is 35mm the plustek is significantly better. i have a v700 for mf/lf and the plustek for 35mm because its so much better for 35mm.
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Jan 5, 2022 18:34
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If you're only scanning 35mm then a Plustek 8xxx is your best choice, they're all the same sensor too but come with different trim levels of Silverfast or also have an infra red channel for dust removal. If you want to do medium format or larger then save for an Epson V750 or V850. I ran a 600 for ages and it was good enough for medium format, no where near good enough for 35mm. With my V850 I'm happy to scan 35mm.
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Jan 5, 2022 23:47
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All my shots are scanned with a v550 and it works fine too. The real lovely thing about epson is the software not the hardware.
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Jan 6, 2022 00:06
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If you want to buy a v600, just buy a v700 750 800 850 instead. You’ll love the massive upgrade in usability (it scans twice as many negs at once) and can do large format too.
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Jan 6, 2022 00:21
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if you ever have any intention of doing medium format, absolutely buy the V700 or higher. My V500 will do exactly two 6x6 negatives at a time and obviously that means a single 6x7 negative at a time so after a long vacation or something where you shot a dozen rolls you'll want to put a bullet in your head. (large format is not even in the cards unless you scan half a negative at a time) The V600 has a better holder but it would mean sinking another $100+ into something that ultimately doesn't even do the things I want. anyway are there any dedicated film scanners that can do 4x5 and also have infrared cleaning? I guess maybe that matters less in an era when color film is more or less dying (especially in 4x5 where it's like $5 a shot factoring in film+dev) since B+W can't be infrared cleaned but it'd be nice if there was something in between flatbeds and digging up a drum scanner. In principle that's where stuff like Flextights should fit in but I never see them come up for sale anywhere. I should dust off my Polaroid SprintScan 45 Ultra and see if it's still running. It's been in some dusty conditions and may literally need to be dusted off, wonder if there's anywhere that does cleaning or whether I could even approach that one myself. Doesn't do infrared cleaning, and the output is kinda noisy, and it runs on literally SCSI, but it seems like there aren't a ton of other options. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 01:22 on Jan 6, 2022 |
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Jan 6, 2022 01:20
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If I ever get into medium format, getting a new scanner will be the least of my problems
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Jan 6, 2022 01:23
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Developed my roll of Delta 100 this morning, looks like two light leaks on the last two shots (extend into the borders). Guessing this is from not winding it tight enough onto the take up spool?VelociBacon posted:All my shots are scanned with a v550 and it works fine too. The real lovely thing about epson is the software not the hardware. I always found Epson Scan a pain to get working on a new OS, and it just flat out quit recognising my GT-X970 (V750) this last time. Silverfast OTOH wrote a driver that ~*just works*~ on Win10 so going to stump up for the full version.
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Jan 6, 2022 01:38
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Developed my roll of Delta 100 this morning, looks like two light leaks on the last two shots (extend into the borders). Guessing this is from not winding it tight enough onto the take up spool? Sounds like it, unload in subdued light. Whenever I unload I either do it at home if I'm not shooting more or I put the shot roll in the packaging of the new roll just for safety
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Jan 6, 2022 02:41
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dupersaurus posted:If I ever get into medium format, getting a new scanner will be the least of my problems The rising cost of film will be your biggest problem.
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Jan 6, 2022 11:07
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In the future everyone will finally catch up to me and shoot Foma and only Foma
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Jan 6, 2022 11:14
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Megabound posted:In the future everyone will finally catch up to me and shoot Foma and only Foma the year is 2032. e-6 and c-41 development has been outlawed. whitelabel tri-x: depleted whitelabel acros: depleted neopan 400: lol kodak satellite film stocks: lol one spunky english company will have to shoulder the entire industry
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Jan 6, 2022 14:34
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Just be like me and Sludge_Tank and shoot wet plate. Break free from the shackles of "film", "consistency", and "ease of use".Paul MaudDib posted:the year is 2032. e-6 and c-41 development has been outlawed. got a good lol outta me I have one remaining roll of OG Acros 100 in 120 and IDK if I'll ever figure out what I'm gonna shoot with it. The II looks OK and I'll probably order some soon, but in the side-by-side comparisons I've seen I've always preferred the original Megabound posted:Sounds like it, unload in subdued light. Whenever I unload I either do it at home if I'm not shooting more or I put the shot roll in the packaging of the new roll just for safety I was pretty much in direct afternoon sun, didn't even need to unload it there but figured why not. In a way I'm not that bothered; I can always go back and re-shoot (it's several hours drive away, but I'm sure I'll be up that way again) and I've learned a lesson. I've also got the Ektar 100 versions I shot, whenever I get around to developing them.
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Jan 7, 2022 06:46
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Today I managed to shoot three (one accidental) frames in my roll of cinestill 800t that I started 2.5 years ago. 9 more to go 
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Jan 18, 2022 03:30
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Apologies in advance for a noobish post. I forced myself to stop using a metered prism a while ago as it would allow me to either travel lighter or pack an extra lens + back. Also, I just love the WLF of the RZ67 (and my GW690 doesn't have a meter LOL). This forced me to use an external light meter (Sekonic 608), which I have been enjoying so far as it's light as hell. My initial experiments with just an incident meter (place meter at subject, extend dome, point toward lens) were a mixed bag, so I switched to using the spot meter. The results were better, but still not perfect, especially in situations where there is a high dynamic range. As I am reading "Beyond the Zone System", I think I found my mistake. My metering technique for high dynamic range situations is: Measure the highlights I care about and the shadows I care about, take an average -> exposure value. I think the mistake is that the light meter expects middle gray to be at 18%, but in a film with 9 stops of dynamic range, middle gray is at 6.25%, 1.5 stops darker than what the light meter is expecting. So in this hypothetical situation with 9 stops of dynamic range in the scene (and assuming the film can accommodate it), I should measure highlight/shadow and average as before, but then underexpose by 1.5 stops to place that exposure value at 6.25%, right?
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Feb 19, 2022 18:30
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theHUNGERian posted:Apologies in advance for a noobish post. I forced myself to stop using a metered prism a while ago as it would allow me to either travel lighter or pack an extra lens + back. Also, I just love the WLF of the RZ67 (and my GW690 doesn't have a meter LOL). This forced me to use an external light meter (Sekonic 608), which I have been enjoying so far as it's light as hell. My initial experiments with just an incident meter (place meter at subject, extend dome, point toward lens) were a mixed bag, so I switched to using the spot meter. The results were better, but still not perfect, especially in situations where there is a high dynamic range. i don't know anything about grey %s, but i just put the incident meter in the same light as my subject and do whatever it tells me. for spot metering my meter (sekonic l558 i think?) has an average function built in so i just meter a bright area and a shadow area and hit the average button, looking at a picture of your meter it has that average button too.
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Feb 19, 2022 19:51
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eggsovereasy posted:for spot metering my meter (sekonic l558 i think?) has an average function built in so i just meter a bright area and a shadow area and hit the average button, looking at a picture of your meter it has that average button too. Yes, that is how I average as well. But will that not place the resulting exposure value at 18% gray? The issue being that 18% gray is not the mid-point of my hypothetical 9-stop scene. Edit: I guess it's time to fill up a roll comparing the two meter techniques and see what happens. theHUNGERian fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Feb 20, 2022 |
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Feb 19, 2022 20:00
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I wonder if anybody makes a set of gray cards with a range of values rather than the set of the white, 18% gray, and black cards.
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Feb 20, 2022 02:31
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Good luck on your quest for hypothetical perfect exposure
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Feb 20, 2022 02:40
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carry a point and shoot with manual controls and use that to estimate your metering 
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Feb 20, 2022 02:49
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Wild EEPROM posted:carry a point and shoot with manual controls and use that to estimate your metering I started out that way, but I got tired of having to deal with two cameras at once. Twenties Superstar posted:Good luck on your quest for hypothetical perfect exposure I am not trying to get perfect (there is no such thing), but I consistently mess up shots with bright highlights and dark shadows (Ektar for example), it's bothering me, and I am confident that I am at fault, not my gear. While I realize that not every picture is about maximizing dynamic range, Ektar likes full sun, likely creating dark shadows, and I should therefore know how to handle it. Edit: And yes, I realize that developing plays a role as well. theHUNGERian fucked around with this message at 04:08 on Feb 20, 2022 |
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Feb 20, 2022 03:11
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Carry no meter and teach yourself how to estimate light based on shadows. Free yourself from the tyranny of battery powered devices and embrace vibes.
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Feb 20, 2022 07:09
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Megabound posted:Carry no meter and teach yourself how to estimate light based on shadows. Free yourself from the tyranny of battery powered devices and embrace vibes. That day will come, but learning by trial and error is too slow for me.
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Feb 20, 2022 22:20
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I just carried around a Sunny-16 card and left the light meter at home, forced myself to use it and think about it. First roll was perfect and after 2 or 3 more rolls I had it pretty well internalized. Would recommend it for sure.
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Feb 20, 2022 23:13
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i learned by figuring out just how many stops shadows of various types would be, and also what sunny 16 was, and then worked backwards from there. only took a few rolls, and for a long time i didn't even need to use my meter with a hasselblad shooting slide film.
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Feb 21, 2022 02:28
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Alright, I'm going to try developing my own BW film. What is the most likely cause for the plume-like defect below? I thought it was poo poo film, but I saw a similar defect in a roll of C-41, so I am now suspecting the lab. Also, how do I decide which chemicals to buy. There seem to be a million different developers, stops, fixers, wetters. Are they all compatible with each other? I am inclined to just buy DD-X, Ilfostop, Ilford Rapid fixer, and Ilfotol. One argument I have heard for using one developer over the other was 'shelf life of an opened and half-used bottle'. Can I extend that number in an easy way? Edit: I want to avoid powders (D-76, XTOL, Perceptol), and I don't want to deal with crazy ratios (HC-110), so DD-X should work well. Dev chart shows data for PanF+, XP2 Super and Delta 3200, so I should be good. theHUNGERian fucked around with this message at 18:57 on Feb 21, 2022 |
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Feb 21, 2022 17:28
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Dev chems can have their shelf life extended if you reduce exposure to the air. The classic solution is accordion style bottles that are collapsible. Woodworkers have a similar problem and somebody had the bright idea to market a spray can filled with pure Argon. You spray a little into your chem bottles and since argon is heavier than air, it rests on top of the chems shielding it from oxygen and moisture. Its sold under the brand name Bloxygen. Edit: Also generally you don't need to use a chemical stop for film developer unless you are using a highly concentrated developer mix and your dev times are crazy fast. I've near exclusively used Rodinal for years and never had issues with a water stop bath at 1+25 concentrations. Ziggy Smalls fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Feb 21, 2022 |
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Feb 21, 2022 19:20
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Ziggy Smalls posted:Dev chems can have their shelf life extended if you reduce exposure to the air. The classic solution is accordion style bottles that are collapsible. Woodworkers have a similar problem and somebody had the bright idea to market a spray can filled with pure Argon. You spray a little into your chem bottles and since argon is heavier than air, it rests on top of the chems shielding it from oxygen and moisture. Its sold under the brand name Bloxygen. Yeah, I also use Nitrogen to remove air from photoresist bottles in our cleanroom, but I didn't know it (or Argon) came in spray cans for home use. That will certainly help!
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Feb 21, 2022 19:34
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Different developers have different use cases and will give different negatives, check out this video for some good side by side comparisons. I use Rodinal for my slow films and HC-110 for my fast at ratios of 1:50 and 1:63 respectively as a more dilute slower development has better compensation, will pull out more detail and produce a flatter neg. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tn0VBt1h-1k As for fix and stop buy whatever is cheapest. If you buy a hardening fixer (most are non-hardening) you'll also need a hypo clear as they require far more washing.
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Feb 21, 2022 21:00
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Alright, a B/W film developing kit is on its way to me. I will make an attempt to automate parts of it asap. My first thought was to buy some cheap-rear end Lego parts to make a roller that also rocks the developing tank along its axis of rotation, Alright, US is a bad idea for film. Edit: But what about platform rockers (mixers or orbital shakers) that chemists use? theHUNGERian fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Feb 28, 2022 |
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Feb 28, 2022 02:28
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Black and white development is not designed for a rotary system, it's designed for you standing there and inverting the tank every minute or so. Going rotary will lead to more issues to resolve, like surging and over-agitation. If you want to go real lazy just do stand developments, which is where you mix a dilute developer, usually Rodinal at 1:100, and let it stand in the tank with no agitation for an hour.
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Feb 28, 2022 03:16
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Yeah, if you're worried about agitation, just go with stand development. Otherwise, developing black and white is easy and the agitations/inversions is no big deal. I was worried when I first started but it's really hard to mess up.
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Feb 28, 2022 03:17
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Megabound posted:Black and white development is not designed for a rotary system, it's designed for you standing there and inverting the tank every minute or so. Going rotary will lead to more issues to resolve, like surging and over-agitation. If you want to go real lazy just do stand developments, which is where you mix a dilute developer, usually Rodinal at 1:100, and let it stand in the tank with no agitation for an hour. I read about stand dev just last weekend, so I was going to give that a try eventually. Can you elaborate/link why rotation is bad for B/W. Also, with an orbital shaker, the tank would not be in a typical rotation position, instead it would be standing upright. (edit) and get consistent agitation while I am being as lazy as possible. theHUNGERian fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Feb 28, 2022 |
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Feb 28, 2022 03:23
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Because black and white developers are very active. The usual method is to flip it over 3 times or so at the top of every minute. For the most of your development time the film is just standing there, soaking in still developer. When you rotate or constantly agitate you're exposing fresh developer to film at all times instead of what usually happens, which is the developer next to the film depletes and gets weaker as it works. This can lead to a very quick build up in density that can be hard to control for, and each developer reacts to rotary development differently so you'd need to experiment with times and rotation speeds/agitation schedules for your particular setup instead of just using the tried and true methods that are quite lenient and produce good results. The issue you would see is the overdevelopment part of this article: https://www.olympus-lifescience.com/en/microscope-resource/primer/photomicrography/bwprocessingerrors/
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Feb 28, 2022 03:33
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Got it. I'll do more reading on this subject, but I am still biased toward something that can be programmed (so it is repeatable) + doing test rolls to determine the optimum dev time. Will report back.
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Feb 28, 2022 04:19
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