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some people do rotary processing and reduce the dev time, not sure what effect that ends up having on the contrast of the image though. i'd guess it would increase contrast and hurt shadow detail, but i've never done it
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Feb 28, 2022 04:39
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I think MrBlandAverage processes his black and white rotary. Honestly, if you're after the best results with the most to work with use a more dilute developer (target time like, 10 - 15 minutes) and use the numbers off the massive dev chart and you're going to have a good time. Bonuses of using the more dilute developer are better shadow detail, a flatter image and lots of leeway in your timing so you can be 30 seconds off and have no great issue. Just put on a podcast and drag a chair over to your sink.
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Feb 28, 2022 04:54
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i do rotary for 8x10 using d-76 and just reduced my time by 25% from normal development as a starting point, worked fine
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Feb 28, 2022 17:14
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I use rotary processing with high-dilution HC-110 in Jobo Expert tanks for all of my B&W and I get pretty nice results with totally normal contrast. I was getting flow marks with the Jobo 4x5 spiral reels but I bet it'd be fine if my Jobo's slow speeds weren't busted/too fast and/or if I tried a different developer.
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Feb 28, 2022 21:30
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Cool, I'll McGyver something together with my Arduino and some Lego parts. As I mentioned in a previous post, I do semiconductor processing (including lithography [expose/develop]) as part of my job, so I was super hesitant about even developing my own film as a hobby. But the lab has messed up a few times now, so this is the way forward. Unfortunately, the only way I can do it without wanting to shoot myself would be to automate parts of it, and rotation seems the easiest way. I am sure it will lead to more consistent results too, with the only downside being a baseline calibration (which I would have to do anyway). And if it all blows up in my face, I will still document it all, so others can learn from my mistakes.
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Mar 1, 2022 02:56
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Apropos of nothing: Going to try MF for the first time in like, six years this weekend. Pulling the  Kiev-60 out of mothballs. I've owned this thing for how many years, and I didn't realize I had the sport WLF on it. It's pretty badass, I can use it as a pseudo eye-level finder, albeit everything is backwards and upside down. This is so freakin' cool. I just assumed I had the bog standard WLF, but then I accidentally put my thumb though the little square on the front of the popped up shade and my mind was blown. e: Huh, or is that just the standard WLF? The manual seems to indicate there's one without the see-through functionality. Oh well, either way fun times this weekend. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 21:25 on Mar 15, 2022 |
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Mar 15, 2022 21:17
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some kinda jackal posted:
drat! Now I feel bad for completely dismissing the Kiev-60 when I first started out with MF. My update is that my home developing kit has arrived. I also realized that building an automated rotary agitation tool with Arduino/Lego from scratch was silly. After some reading, I found a couple of working commercial units on ebay (Unicolor, Simmard, Beseler). I figured it would be easier to fix them (if needed), than to build my own. Until they are here, I am building muscle memory for loading film onto the reel in the dark. I should have my first test rolls developed in 2-3 weeks.
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Mar 16, 2022 04:00
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Kiev-60s are good so long as you get a good one. They're the best P6 mount body for sure and those lenses are also great.
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Mar 16, 2022 04:31
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Megabound posted:Kiev-60s are good so long as you get a good one. They're the best P6 mount body for sure and those lenses are also great. The giant SLR form factor is kinda fun, although I'd probably rather a good 88 than a good 60 for the interchangeable film backs. I had a 60 briefly, it came with the 80mm and Arsat fisheye (and some pretty bad frame spacing issues). Glass was great though.
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Mar 16, 2022 08:11
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Doesn't the 88 have the "Don't change the shutter speed unless cocked" issue? The 60 is less finicky from my understanding.
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Mar 16, 2022 08:26
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I bought a non-functional Kiev-60 from a gentlemen here. Knew in advance it wasn't working so no worries there. Tried to fix it myself, broke it worse, and sent it off to Gevorg at Arax Photo in Kyev. He refurbed it completely, added flocking to the mirror box, added mirror lock up (killer feature), and swapped the focusing screen for a brighter model. Gevorg was the service manager at Kiev Arsenal when they were manufacturing cameras and went into business for himself doing the same thing when Arsenal shutdown. Hope he's safe, he was very pleasant to deal with. I ended up passing it off to a friend who's been enjoying it. The Kiev-60 is quite usable, the lenses are excellent with a huge variety of choice because of the P6 mount (The 30mm fisheye is nuts). I just can't handle the weight and bulk. The Rolleiflex only has one focal length but its extremely portable.
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Mar 16, 2022 14:19
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Checked his page yesterday and he's obviously very hit hard since that was part of his income. I sent in a donation but I fully intend to send this to him WHEN things settle and he can resume. I did a cursory check of the 60 since it's been an age. Honestly couldn't remember what if anything was wrong with it. Frame spacing looks great, timing feels accurate, although impossible to even try to guess once you start to get over 1/100. I know the camera itself needs work. The back hinge looks to be epoxied to the body, probably because the screws or holes were stripped, but it seems to close properly and tight. I'll still gaff tape the seams though, just in case. Other than that I'm really pumped. I've had some Arista EDU 400 in my fridge for the past ... three or four years. I hope it's still OK.
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Mar 16, 2022 14:41
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The gods of film have blessed us in TYOOL 2022, for Kodak is making Gold 200 in 120 AND CineStill is launching a new 400 speed film! Meanwhile I've got about 8 rolls of Pro 400H sitting in my fridge that I'm afraid to ever use.
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Mar 22, 2022 00:54
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Yeah, always nice to see new stuff out. The Cinestill 400d will be Kodak Vision3 250D but the more interesting part is that it's coming in 4x5. Kodak will cut whatever you want if you put in a minimum order so it's exciting to see it's picked up enough interest to make it worthwhile cutting LF from cinema stock.
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Mar 22, 2022 01:45
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Both 800T and 50D have disappointed me, so I have low expectations from Cinestill.
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Mar 22, 2022 02:02
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Yeah, remjet is there for a reason. Halation is in rn however so it'll sell like hot cakes. Which is ultimately good for the industry but I won't be getting any. I'm more interested in their Double-X in 120 but not for those prices.
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Mar 22, 2022 02:07
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I like 800T more than Portra 800 
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Mar 22, 2022 02:38
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I really like the 50D, it's just hard to get enough light for handheld.
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Mar 22, 2022 03:00
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Post some samples showing off what you like about it. I still have 3 rolls of each and perhaps I was using them wrong.
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Mar 22, 2022 03:38
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50D doesn't do much for me either, it's a bit too muted. But I prefer that kind of look in 800T for night or low light scenes, Portra can look oversaturated.
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Mar 22, 2022 07:15
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portra is pretty famous for not having much saturation, if it's oversaturated there's probably something off in your workflow
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Mar 22, 2022 16:46
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If it's oversaturated, then it's underexposed.
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Mar 22, 2022 17:13
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Megabound posted:I'm more interested in their Double-X in 120 but not for those prices. yeah same, costs too much, like 50% more than tmax 400 which is already on the high end.
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Mar 22, 2022 17:27
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bellows lugosi posted:portra is pretty famous for not having much saturation, if it's oversaturated there's probably something off in your workflow Maybe. Either way I get a moodier vibe out of 800T that I prefer but I try not to shoot it in daylight.
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Mar 22, 2022 17:56
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VoodooXT posted:If it's oversaturated, then it's underexposed. which can happen pretty easily if you shoot at night and don't take into account reciprocity failure
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Mar 22, 2022 18:05
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bellows lugosi posted:which can happen pretty easily if you shoot at night and don't take into account reciprocity failure Yup, exactly.
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Mar 22, 2022 18:16
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I'm not taking exposures longer than 1 second with most of my photos so I don't think reciprocity was needed. However most of my shots were with the Mamiya 6 which has a tendency to underexpose. Regardless, adding exposure time to Portra isn't going to make me like it more than CineStill as far as 800 speed film goes. Though I haven't tried Lomo 800 in 120 yet. Cacator fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Mar 22, 2022 |
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Mar 22, 2022 19:54
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cinestill is tungsten-balance portra, but from a newer generation of film (vision3), portra 800 is an older formulation and not very good e: which is to say if you see anything super different between cinestill and portra 800 outside of halation/white balance it's just because portra 800 sucks bellows lugosi fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Mar 22, 2022 |
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Mar 22, 2022 23:13
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ImplicitAssembler posted:I really like the 50D, it's just hard to get enough light for handheld. Haven't developed the film yet but I shot my first roll of 50D last weekend on a bright sunny day at SD zoo with a handheld f3.5 zoom lens and even if there was just a bit of shade for our protection I was basically down to 1/60 (on a 80-200) so I was screwed for that lens. Pretty sure half the roll will be a motion blurred mess. Maybe I should've pushed it a stop or two but it was too late in the roll and I'm not sure how well 50D does being pushed.
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Apr 1, 2022 07:36
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A noob's developing log: I finished developing my first three rolls. Not gonna lie, it sucked as much as I had anticipated, even though I used a motorized roller (Simma, sinusoidal rotation = rotation and gentle rocking back and forth around axis of rotation). Hopefully it's like all other things you do for the first time and it gets easier with time. The first roll (Delta 3200) was trashed because I thought it had a sticky residue, and I would not put it anywhere near my scanner as I feared it would ruin the glass or the plastic cover. I had assumed I used too much PhotoFlo (1:200) or that I had agitated it too much (it was foaming when I unloaded it), but in hindsight the stickiness was likely caused by the emulsion not being completely dry. Oh well, I likely only lost 1-2 keepers, which I can reproduce. The second roll (Ortho), I somehow managed to load into the reel in the most awkward way. I could tell by feel that something was off, but I had no idea how to fix it in the dark, so I just moved along. I had reduced the PhotoFlo to 1:400, but there was still some foaming, so I did a water rinse, but this was begging to leave water streaks. As I tried to remove them, I again noticed a sticky film, and this is when Google told me that it is normal, the emulsion is sticky until it is completely dry. I probably ruined a few shots by touching the emulsion before it was dry. Third and final roll (TMax100) gave me a heart attack as the developer poured out light pink (even though I used fresh developer for all rolls, I was trying to build muscle memory), and even the fixer had some strange color to it. Fortunately the film developed, and I am not going to touch it for the next couple of hours. Let's hope I ironed out all the major quirks. Recipe (for anyone who cares): Since I am using rotary development, Ilford and goons recommended reducing developing time by 15-25%. I split the difference at ~20%, buy reducing the concentration by 10% (keep developer at the recommended amount but add more water) and reduce the develop time by 10%. In hindsight, reducing the ratio was perhaps a bad idea. I should probably just adjust one parameter (time). 0. One roll of 120, installed on bottom reel, second reel added to tank (Jobo 1540) to keep bottom reel from moving around too much. 1. DD-X:H2O = 100:450 mL, agitation in Simma roller, develop time from massive dev chart - 10% 2. Ilfostop:H2O = 30 + 520 mL, agitation in Simma, 1 minute 3. RapidFixer:H2O = 110 + 440 mL, agitation in Simma, 5 minutes 4. H2O, rinse/dump 2x, agitate by hand 5. PhotoFlo:DI water = 7.5:3000 mL, immerse and gently move around solution (in a 1 gallon container) for 1 minute Any other things I am doing wrong?
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Apr 2, 2022 23:56
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Colour in your chems is normal depending on the film. It's usually the anti-halation layer that gets washed out. TMax is purple, Foma is neon green. Ilford films don't have a colour
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Apr 3, 2022 05:47
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I'm developing Foma right now. This is a normal colour for the pre soak to come out
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Apr 3, 2022 06:52
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Cool, thanks. Another lousy day outside, so I'll get right to scanning.
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Apr 3, 2022 14:43
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Apologies in advance for the dump and some cliche subjects. Second roll of film I developed myself (the first ended up in the trash because I am an idiot): Ilford Ortho Plus on the RZ67 ProII. I am pretty happy with the result, though I feel that the negatives are too contrasty. The film is pretty curly, but that could have been caused by not having enough weight on the bottom of the roll.         Third roll: T-max 100 on GW690II. Very flat -> very easy to scan. But I think I messed something up in developing as some of the scans are almost transparent.    A nod to alkanphel. As annoying as developing is, once the work was done, I did feel accomplished. theHUNGERian fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Apr 3, 2022 |
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Apr 3, 2022 18:25
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I bought a Lomography Instant Automat on eBay for next to nothing. I usually don’t buy into the whole forced lo-fi camera aesthetic but honestly it makes sense for instant film and is a ton of fun to shoot with.  
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Apr 5, 2022 04:46
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Arggg develop posts making me want to go buy chemicals again. Shot a few rolls of 120 a few weeks ago that I need to get out of the can. I haven't developed film in probably going on four or five years and I'm not a frequent shooter so 100% know this will go to waste after I develop one or two rolls. ALSO my absolute inexperience means I'll probably trash the first roll anyway, so I'd have to experiment beforehand. All signs point to "just send it to get developed" but that doesn't feed my "impulsive sporadic hobby" adrenaline meter so I guess I need to decide. Though I will probably just do the smart thing and send it off, then live vicariously through you nerds.
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Apr 5, 2022 13:22
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some kinda jackal posted:Arggg develop posts making me want to go buy chemicals again. Shot a few rolls of 120 a few weeks ago that I need to get out of the can. If my go-to labs hadn't returned (1) scratched negatives or (2) a few rolls with defects that looked like they were caused by improper handling (see below), I never would have tried to develop film myself.  An example of defects (Ilford Ortho Plus). Notice the dark gray spots across the image.
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Apr 5, 2022 14:38
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theHUNGERian posted:Apologies in advance for the dump and some cliche subjects. i like all these but i really dig this one.
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Apr 15, 2022 13:31
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Admiral Bosch posted:i like all these but i really dig this one. Thanks. I too like "Banged up dumpster with bird poo poo accent". What are people's final rinse tricks? I had too much PhotoFlo last time, so I reduced it (3 drops into 1 liter of water), which made the foaming/bubbling go away, but I still end up with water spots that don't bead off, so they just stay on the film and leave spots (even though I used distilled water). Is it worthwhile to submerse the film in water and slowly pull it out so no water drops form on the film surface?
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Apr 17, 2022 03:27
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theHUNGERian posted:Thanks. I too like "Banged up dumpster with bird poo poo accent". i just squirt photoflo in, but its definitely more than 3 drops. after agitating i flick the poo poo out of the reel to try and knock the water off, then hang to dry
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Apr 17, 2022 04:43
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