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Recoome
Nov 9, 2013

Matter of fact, I'm salty now.

Lhet posted:


Picked up a OM-4T last weekend at a camera show and a few rolls of mystery film. Seems to be in great condition, and feels fantastic. I haven't really shot film in very many years so should be a fun little experience - the metering system makes sense on paper but I'm sure I'll need use it a fair bit to get consistent. Planning on taking it to Alaska in a couple months and hopefully will have a good grasp by then.

Chuck it in Auto, it’ll be fine. The OM cameras have some of the best metering of any camera I’ve used so I’d be pretty confident in whatever the camera suggests.

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theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

eggsovereasy posted:

i mailed my film back from ireland when i was there because i read the dublin airport had the new type of xray that wrecks film. they did not have the new type, but my film came in the mail fine with no issues.

i too have never had an issue asking for handcheck in on domestic flights though


aricoarena posted:

On U.S. domestic flights I’ve never had a problem asking for my film to be hand checked at security. I have it in one or 2 ziplock sandwich bags. I’ve had it take a while because there were not enough people and some has to run the swab test on it.

I guess I can take the film with me and ask it to be handchecked. If it's granted, I will feel more confident I can do the same on the return trip. If it's denied I can still buy film at the destination and mail it back.

Cacator
Aug 6, 2005

You're quite good at turning me on.

After considering a dedicated 35mm scanner for a while I ended up going with the Primefilm XEs, it was on sale at B&H. The resolution and dynamic range are apparently higher than the Opticfilm equivalent but you only get basic silverfast with it. The difference in scan quality from my old V550 is astounding and justifies me buying a better 35mm camera!

Lhet
Apr 2, 2008

bloop


Recoome posted:

Chuck it in Auto, it’ll be fine. The OM cameras have some of the best metering of any camera I’ve used so I’d be pretty confident in whatever the camera suggests.

Oh yeah, definitely confidant in default for 90% of use cases, but getting used to it was more about the highlight/shadow and multi-spot - need to figure out when to use those instead of the default metering.

tompepper
Feb 14, 2005

Ethics_Gradient posted:

...mind blown at how expansive the viewfinder was. It was like going from a postage stamp at the end of a hallway to looking out a bay window.

Can confirm as a recent purchaser of an OM-1 that the viewfinder rules. It made me understand why people hate EVFs.

Odoyle
Sep 9, 2003
Odoyle Rules!

Cacator posted:

After considering a dedicated 35mm scanner for a while I ended up going with the Primefilm XEs, it was on sale at B&H. The resolution and dynamic range are apparently higher than the Opticfilm equivalent but you only get basic silverfast with it. The difference in scan quality from my old V550 is astounding and justifies me buying a better 35mm camera!

Ooh really? I wonder what the software is like? I have a Nikon Coolscan IV and I used to love the old OEM software but it gives me errors that Vuescan seems to pass right over. Vuescan is serviceable, but I’ve already blown $200 on licenses and still haven’t quite gotten it dialed in for effortless bulk scanning.

Cacator
Aug 6, 2005

You're quite good at turning me on.

Odoyle posted:

Ooh really? I wonder what the software is like? I have a Nikon Coolscan IV and I used to love the old OEM software but it gives me errors that Vuescan seems to pass right over. Vuescan is serviceable, but I’ve already blown $200 on licenses and still haven’t quite gotten it dialed in for effortless bulk scanning.

The basic version of Silverfast lacks options like multi-exposure and colour calibration, I've only scanned B&W so far so haven't needed those features yet. The software is clunky to me but that seems to be my impression of all scanning software (and dedicated film scanners). I will probably upgrade at some point but don't know if the top level is worth the price premium for it: https://www.silverfast.com/products-overview-products-company-lasersoft-imaging/silverfast-scanner-software/

This is a good scanner comparison which ultimately led me to pick the Primefilm over Opticfilm, also it was cheaper. Reflecta is the euro branding for Primefilm.
https://www.filmscanner.info/en/FilmscannerRangliste.html

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

Cacator posted:

The basic version of Silverfast lacks options like multi-exposure and colour calibration, I've only scanned B&W so far so haven't needed those features yet. The software is clunky to me but that seems to be my impression of all scanning software (and dedicated film scanners). I will probably upgrade at some point but don't know if the top level is worth the price premium for it: https://www.silverfast.com/products-overview-products-company-lasersoft-imaging/silverfast-scanner-software/

This is a good scanner comparison which ultimately led me to pick the Primefilm over Opticfilm, also it was cheaper. Reflecta is the euro branding for Primefilm.
https://www.filmscanner.info/en/FilmscannerRangliste.html

I really like this comparison between high end scanners: https://www.largeformatphotography.info/scan-comparison/

Recoome
Nov 9, 2013

Matter of fact, I'm salty now.
Beyond my love of a dead medium for encoding visual information, I am a turbo sucker for using really old cameras. My primary camera is a '57 Leica IIIg, my favourite SLR is a '71 Nikon F, and most recently I've been shooting 4x5 handheld with a Crown Graphic. This post, however, is about one of my most loved and smallest 35mm cameras, a 1949 Kodak Retina II.



If you've never seen of held these cameras before, you'd probably be surprised by the weight and density of these cameras. They really are up there with best-made cameras of the era, with everything feeling like it's made with the same overdone precision that sunk Leica and Zeiss-Ikon in the 60/70s. While it has the same drawbacks of camera built in the 40s (squinty VF, advance and shutter cocking are independent, bellows), it also has some extremely impressive specs, like a combined RF/VF, insanely small (but heavy), and a blisteringly fast 50mm f2 uncoated lens. I use a '49 Summitar on my Leica these days and even that early coating significantly reduces the amazing amount of flare than the uncoated double gauss lens formula has. Still, it makes nice pictures.

There's one fatal flaw - it's the size and VF making it hard to ensure your pictures are square. I took this camera on Xmas holidays loaded with Ektachrome and a LOT of them are crooked. Anyway that's the price of me being poo poo so please enjoy some photos from this positively old camera.


XP2 Super


Agfa Eagle 200


Tri-X


Tri-X


Ektachrome


Ektachrome

jiffypop45
Dec 30, 2011

My partner shoots one of those retinas. We're doing a date night right now and she's got 3200 in it and has been taking photos of us in various bars all night. She absolutely loves how it's a tank and can basically take anything. Also the fact that it uses ev values since hardly any cameras uses those anymore.

President Beep
Apr 30, 2009





i have to have a car because otherwise i cant drive around the country solving mysteries while being doggedly pursued by federal marshals for a crime i did not commit (9/11)

Megabound posted:

A reminder that if you shoot film you should visit a darkroom









35mm to 12x16, UN54 pushed 2 stops in HC110

Outstanding.

President Beep
Apr 30, 2009





i have to have a car because otherwise i cant drive around the country solving mysteries while being doggedly pursued by federal marshals for a crime i did not commit (9/11)
gently caress, I’m gonna do it. I’m gonna sign up for the darkroom class at the local art museum again this fall.

huhu
Feb 24, 2006
Might anyone be able to tell me what happened to the following photos? The light on the edges, the random noise, the straight lines, the water looking spot? I got these done at a lab, not by myself.

7575-9 by Esa Foto, on Flickr

7574-12 by Esa Foto, on Flickr

7574-9 by Esa Foto, on Flickr

7574-8 by Esa Foto, on Flickr

Wild EEPROM
Jul 29, 2011


oh, my, god. Becky, look at her bitrate.
On the first one: that spot looks like dirty residue onthe film

Second one: on the edge, light leak - what camera is this?
White stringy thing: dust

Third one: looks like either a light leak on the edge

Fourth one: straight lines are scratches, either from the camera, processing, or scanning

huhu
Feb 24, 2006

Wild EEPROM posted:

On the first one: that spot looks like dirty residue onthe film

Second one: on the edge, light leak - what camera is this?
White stringy thing: dust

Third one: looks like either a light leak on the edge

Fourth one: straight lines are scratches, either from the camera, processing, or scanning

Thanks! Camera is a Yashica C TLR. For the light leaks, would that most likely be from me handling the film poorly?

Recoome
Nov 9, 2013

Matter of fact, I'm salty now.

huhu posted:

Thanks! Camera is a Yashica C TLR. For the light leaks, would that most likely be from me handling the film poorly?

Or you have a light leak on the right hand side of the camera, even a slight one as it’s hitting both sides of the film.

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

Does anyone have any tricks on how to use 220 film in a pinhole camera? It has no backing paper and therefore no frame numbers, so I am looking for an easy way to align the frames. Count the number of turns and hope for the best?

Helen Highwater
Feb 19, 2014

And furthermore
Grimey Drawer

theHUNGERian posted:

Does anyone have any tricks on how to use 220 film in a pinhole camera? It has no backing paper and therefore no frame numbers, so I am looking for an easy way to align the frames. Count the number of turns and hope for the best?

The number of turns will change as the film winds on to the takeup spool. I'd use some castoff 120 backing papers taped together and measure how many turns for each frame, then make a note of that and keep it with the camera.

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

Helen Highwater posted:

The number of turns will change as the film winds on to the takeup spool. I'd use some castoff 120 backing papers taped together and measure how many turns for each frame, then make a note of that and keep it with the camera.

Thanks. I had forgotten how much this film (bw400cn) curls, so I'll just stick to Delta 100 in 120.

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


Very much a beginner question here: my brother got given an old film point and shoot by a relative and we had a lot of fun with it, getting surprisingly good results on some b&w film. I'd like to get something similar for a trip I'm on at the moment, I'm going to be able to visit this shop in Copenhagen soon:
https://oneofmanycameras.com/collections/used-cameras/medium-analog

I know that I should be looking for:
35mm film
Serviced in some way
Working light meter
30-40mm lens
Less than about 1700kr
Small

I think something like the Olympus trip 35 would be perfect? They have some serviced ones. There are a bunch of similar looking cameras there and I'm not sure if some are better value? E.g. they have a Ricoh 500rf.

I know that shop is probably a bit overpriced but the convenience and being able to pick up in store is useful for me.

LimaBiker
Dec 9, 2020




A Trip is good, but it's never been my favorite. The pictures i took with it, often came out a bit lifeless and drab.
A Ricoh 500g is much better in my opinion, because it offers more manual control (in addition to automatic) as well as a rangefinder.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

If you're going to a physical location, a lot of your decisions will be made for you in terms of what they even have. Places like that will have informed staff that are into this stuff, I would tell them what you need and see what they have within your budget. If you don't find anything with a decent light meter don't be too afraid of just shooting portra 400 and using a phone light meter app.

ishikabibble
Jan 21, 2012

distortion park posted:

Very much a beginner question here: my brother got given an old film point and shoot by a relative and we had a lot of fun with it, getting surprisingly good results on some b&w film. I'd like to get something similar for a trip I'm on at the moment, I'm going to be able to visit this shop in Copenhagen soon:
https://oneofmanycameras.com/collections/used-cameras/medium-analog

I know that I should be looking for:
35mm film
Serviced in some way
Working light meter
30-40mm lens
Less than about 1700kr
Small

I think something like the Olympus trip 35 would be perfect? They have some serviced ones. There are a bunch of similar looking cameras there and I'm not sure if some are better value? E.g. they have a Ricoh 500rf.

I know that shop is probably a bit overpriced but the convenience and being able to pick up in store is useful for me.

The Olympus Trip 35 is a zone focusing only camera, so that's something you should keep in mind.

How small is 'small' for you? For what you're looking for, the best option might be something like a Ricoh/Olympus/Canon fixed lens rangefinder, but they're very much not pocket-sized cameras and will need to be carried in either a bag or on a strap.

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


ishikabibble posted:

The Olympus Trip 35 is a zone focusing only camera, so that's something you should keep in mind.

How small is 'small' for you? For what you're looking for, the best option might be something like a Ricoh/Olympus/Canon fixed lens rangefinder, but they're very much not pocket-sized cameras and will need to be carried in either a bag or on a strap.

Honestly as small as possible, slim coat pocket would be ideal. I want something that I can actually carry around without it getting in the way

I'll take VelociBacon's advice and speak to the staff and try out their stock, just wanted to check I wasn't miles off base.

ishikabibble
Jan 21, 2012

distortion park posted:

Honestly as small as possible, slim coat pocket would be ideal. I want something that I can actually carry around without it getting in the way

I'll take VelociBacon's advice and speak to the staff and try out their stock, just wanted to check I wasn't miles off base.

You're probably not going to find much that's been serviced, then, unfortunately... Pretty much anything electronic and small is a no-go for most repair places. Best you'll get is a shop saying they replaced the seals on it, and that's something you can do yourself with a $15 kit and an hour to spare.

But if you're willing to compromise on that a bit, I'd highly recommend the Olympus XA (not XA2/3/etc). It's about as small as you can get a 35mm camera, is aperture priority, and even has a rangefinder on it. Really good lens too.

Havana Affair
Apr 6, 2009
Fwiw I've a 40mm zone or scale focus camera and focusing has not been a problem even with full aperture of 2,8. Depends on what you want to shoot with it of course.

SMERSH Mouth
Jun 25, 2005

Rollei 35s are cool and I love using mine. The meter only really suggests what proper exposure should be, and it has to be focused by reckoning distance and dialing it in on the lens scale, but it’s got wonderful simplicity and the lens is very good.
Fully mechanical and often repaired/restored/CLA’d.


Also has anyone heard about e100 being discontinued in 120? Someone at my local shop said that it was showing up as discontinued in their system, but I haven’t found anything about it online.

Recoome
Nov 9, 2013

Matter of fact, I'm salty now.
Haven't heard anything about that, we are getting fresh shipments to where I am.

Cacator
Aug 6, 2005

You're quite good at turning me on.

Cacator posted:

After considering a dedicated 35mm scanner for a while I ended up going with the Primefilm XEs, it was on sale at B&H. The resolution and dynamic range are apparently higher than the Opticfilm equivalent but you only get basic silverfast with it. The difference in scan quality from my old V550 is astounding and justifies me buying a better 35mm camera!

Well after a month and a half and scanning maybe 5, 6 rolls this thing poo poo itself, the scanning unit is stuck in the viewing window. Time to return to B&H, I might try the Opticfilm instead. I did buy a better film camera though, Minolta Cle with the Voigtlander 40mm F1.4 and I'm looking to grab the 28mm f2 soon too :cool:

As for compacts, I have an Olympus XA, Rollei 35SE and Minolta TC-1. The XA is simplest to use and I like having a rangefinder in such a small package but I'm not crazy about the lens despite it being my preferred focal length. The Rollei lens is great and zone focusing is easier than it sounds, I've missed very few shots with it. The Minolta was my go-to travel camera but electronics are fiddly (seems to be a loose battery contact in mine that occasionally causes the meter to fail, but the first one I had broke down after 6 shots).

big black turnout
Jan 13, 2009



Fallen Rib
Is the Plustek OpticFilm 8200i Ai worth the price difference with the Plustek OpticFilm 8200i SE for the better(?) version of silverfast?

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Yes, AI is the lowest version of Silverfast that allows for raw 48bit output instead of their 48bit HDR. If it's less than the price of upgrading version it's worth it.

RillAkBea
Oct 11, 2008

I got a 'junk' Canon AV-1 with lens for cheap on Yahoo and it's absolutely beautifully clean but the auto-metering doesn't work. The 1/60 flash mode works perfectly though so I guess I'm gonna go through a roll of film on that and see what happens. :v:

HorribleAvatar
Feb 26, 2012

We're through running form these bastards!
Have any of you used any of the Contax G series rangefinders? Are they worth the current prices or have they been overvalued liked a lot of film cameras these last few years? I'm getting tired of my Canon Elan and wanted to fiddle around with something else. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

I sold my G2 earlier this year. The camera was great and the lenses are fantastic, but it was too big a liability if it breaks.

HorribleAvatar
Feb 26, 2012

We're through running form these bastards!

eggsovereasy posted:

I sold my G2 earlier this year. The camera was great and the lenses are fantastic, but it was too big a liability if it breaks.

Ya that and the autofocus being somewhat subpar are some of the common complaints I've read after doing a little research. The lenses though are apparently some of the best ever made for film cameras. I dunno I'm a little bored right now but most of that's on me for not getting out there and shooting more. Thanks for the reply.

eggsovereasy
May 6, 2011

I never had autofocus issues fwiw, but I’ve never used a digital camera with what’s considered ‘good’ autofocus.

Ethics_Gradient
May 5, 2015

Common misconception that; that fun is relaxing. If it is, you're not doing it right.

HorribleAvatar posted:

Have any of you used any of the Contax G series rangefinders? Are they worth the current prices or have they been overvalued liked a lot of film cameras these last few years? I'm getting tired of my Canon Elan and wanted to fiddle around with something else. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I haven't used a Contax G; the system doesn't massively appeal to me as the lenses are annoying (at best) to adapt and use on other cameras, auto focus, cost, etc. Who knows, maybe they're awesome, but they never appealed to me enough to try picking one up.

I guess it depends on what you think is lacking about the Elan. If you've got a digital EF to swap lenses across that's a pretty power incentive to keep it, you might look at a later one with eye control focus if yours is the first gen, or maybe one of the pro bodies.

If you want a manual 35mm rangefinder with interchangeable lenses, I think a Canon 7 is really the camera to beat if you're on a budget. The Russian bodies each have their own annoying quirks, the Canon has much better handling, ergonomics, and build quality while also not costing an arm and a leg like the M bodies do, and sometimes the meter even still works! I'd get one with the 50mm f/1.4 to start out.

You could also try a TLR if you want something really different, you can get a no-name Japanese one for basically nothing (I picked up one called an "Elmoflex" for ten bucks last summer). There are also some inexpensive 6x6 and 6x9 folding cameras like the Mamiya Six and Moskva-5.

Or be a masochist and get a 4x5 camera and shoot sheet film. It really slows you down and gets you thinking about each picture.

Recoome
Nov 9, 2013

Matter of fact, I'm salty now.

HorribleAvatar posted:

Have any of you used any of the Contax G series rangefinders? Are they worth the current prices or have they been overvalued liked a lot of film cameras these last few years? I'm getting tired of my Canon Elan and wanted to fiddle around with something else. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Yes I've used one. It's neat but I kind of prefer having the actual RF patch in my rangefinders and the G doesn't actually have that. Yes, you get a decent enough readout on ranging but I don't feel as in control with the G and IIRC the camera doesn't actuate the lens until you actually take the picture, so there's a slight delay (like using an SLR).

The G1 seemed like an okay deal but the G2 commands stupid money for a slightly different RF functionality and the ability to use a zoom lens. I think the fact that they are like an overgrown point and shoot and can basically run on full auto means they are a bit overvalued, but the lenses are very, very good. If I had the money for a Contax G1 and a lens I'd probably rather buy a Nikon S rangefinder and bank the difference.

Blackhawk
Nov 15, 2004

HorribleAvatar posted:

Have any of you used any of the Contax G series rangefinders? Are they worth the current prices or have they been overvalued liked a lot of film cameras these last few years? I'm getting tired of my Canon Elan and wanted to fiddle around with something else. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I don't know what cameras cost anymore but when I was looking for a rangefinder I ended up with a Voigtlander Bessa R3A for the following reasons:

- Pretty modern and robust, not likely to break in some impossible to fix way
- Takes normal LR44 batteries
- Aperture priority mode which I prefer to shutter priority (also you can get the R3M version which is fully manual)
- Takes any M-mount lens of which there are lots
- The 1:1 viewfinder is amazing, you can shoot both eyes open using it

Due to the 1:1 viewfinder it can only show framelines to as wide as 40mm, which is actually my preferred wide focal length anyway as I think it's a good representation of my own FOV. I use a voigtlander nokton 40mm f1.4. You can kinda use a 35mm lens if you want to guess the edges of the scene a bit, otherwise the R4A or R4M models have a much wider viewfinder designed for lenses down to 21mm.

My only complaint with it so far is the rangefinder patch seems to go out of vertical alignment kinda easily from being knocked around, but it's also pretty simple to adjust so eh.

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Ethics_Gradient
May 5, 2015

Common misconception that; that fun is relaxing. If it is, you're not doing it right.

Blackhawk posted:

My only complaint with it so far is the rangefinder patch seems to go out of vertical alignment kinda easily from being knocked around, but it's also pretty simple to adjust so eh.

Mine did that too, try some thread locker on the adjustment screw next time you have it open.

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