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 thinkin bout thos spicy chips
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Mar 25, 2020 20:05
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That is a thing of beauty friend, you should be proud of what you’ve done there.
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Mar 25, 2020 20:06
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Rapulum_Dei posted:That is a thing of beauty friend, you should be proud of what you’ve done there. Seriously. Herr Deckel would be proud.
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Mar 26, 2020 14:01
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Awesome work. If you're still looking for a big old Kemppi mig welder, I've been seeing a few show up on Kiertonet lately.
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Mar 27, 2020 12:41
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Thanks Still looking yeah, last night someone tried to scam me as well. Someone put up a Kempomat 250 for a good price, but when i wanted to go see it he was all No I am in Kuopio now, you send me money I come with machine to you this weekend. Smelled fishy and I declined. By coincidence another person I sorta know had asked on the same ad knowing it was fake, because he recognized the image was stolen and haggled with him until he asked why the image was stolen from another place and he hung up on him at once. So he got the ad deleted and posted about it on a local forum. Later last night the wanna scammer sent me an SMS "350€ ??!?!?". Poor guy must be desperate. Still looking though. I was talking to one guy near Jakobstad but he stopped answering my questions. It's like it's too much to ask about the gas cylinder, when it was inspected (since he owns it, that's rare, a real owned bottle, not a swappable one). Downside to those is 300e inspection every decade and you can't just swap the bottle for a new one but gotta leave it to get filled.
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Mar 27, 2020 14:07
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So that buckle came in, and it did not react with a magnet. It appears that it has some sort of strange film on it that I cannot rub off, even using water and baking soda, and I think might be the cause of the brown spots:   Ideas on how I can make this thing shine?
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Mar 27, 2020 18:52
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Maybe someone previously sprayed it with some sort of clear coat enamel, and that is chipping off?
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Mar 27, 2020 18:59
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That's what my first thought was.
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Mar 27, 2020 19:49
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His Divine Shadow posted:It's like it's too much to ask about the gas cylinder, when it was inspected (since he owns it, that's rare, a real owned bottle, not a swappable one). Downside to those is 300e inspection every decade and you can't just swap the bottle for a new one but gotta leave it to get filled. I don’t know that I’d be bothered with that- just get a refillable one. It took me so long to go though my bottle of gas that when I went to get it refilled the company had gone bust/been taken over and they had to give me some money back because the new company’s deposit for cylinders was less. So 1/2 price refill  Shows how much welding I do. On the other hand I _have_ gone through a lot of grinding disks in the same interval. Speaking of; My shed was broken into and all my power tools and tool bag taken. Which is a bit poo poo. BUT I do have insurance so I’ve sent them a list of what was lost. They said on account of the current situation (REMAIN INDOORS) they were settling most claims with cash. I was using Bosch 18V and found them all fine (except the grinder which was disappointing). The 2 in 1 impact driver/wrench is particularly missed. Should I stick with Bosch or is there better for the money? (Lights blue touch paper and stands back...)
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Mar 27, 2020 21:57
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I've developed a softspot for the new dewalt flexvolt devices. But there are also a lot of local companies and engineers that support their supply chain so i'm biased. e; specifically i've spent way to much time with the flexvolt angle grinder and still love the thing. Probably went through 12 cutoff disks and 4 flap wheels this season M_Gargantua fucked around with this message at 06:02 on Mar 28, 2020 |
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Mar 28, 2020 06:00
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Rapulum_Dei posted:I don’t know that I’d be bothered with that- just get a refillable one. It took me so long to go though my bottle of gas that when I went to get it refilled the company had gone bust/been taken over and they had to give me some money back because the new company’s deposit for cylinders was less. So 1/2 price refill I honestly didn't know it was possible to have a refillable bottle anymore when I saw it, my mind went towards the stories of people buying stolen or ancient bottles no longer supported they couldn't refill anymore. The history of weldling gas in Finland is a bit convoluted. Back in the days in the 1970s or so people who owned their own bottles was the norm. We had only one gas company, AGA and around then they decided they could make a lot more money if they banned owned bottles and made everything rentable. So it was until the 2000s or so, I think private individuals could get 5 liter bottles (maybe 40cf) during the AGA monopoly days, anything bigger and you had to rent. Around that time other companies started up (Woikoski) or came in from abroad (Air Liquide) and started challenging AGAs monopoly situation. Air Liquide seemed to set the standard with their swappable bottle model and allowing private individuals to get their hands on 10/11 liter bottles (@200 bar, so a little less than an 80CF bottle). You buy the gas bottle for an initial price(300-350€), but nobody will refill it for you, instead you take it to the nearest dealer and swap it in for a fresh one (80-90€), in Air Liquides case this also means you get a serviced regulator every time as they are integrated. This is what most companies offer now 5/10 liter swap in bottles. But apparently Woikoski offers refillable 20 liter bottles now, they are the only ones I know doing this. I like the swappable bottle system though, it's quick and fast and never any inspections. Man that sucks about the break in. I'm worried about that myself, though it's a very low crime area this and I got insurance. I'm definitely a Makita guy by now myself. When it comes to battery tools. Don't own many though.
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Mar 28, 2020 07:57
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Here is the same as things like butane cylinders, deposit initially then swap full for empty each time. Yeah I’m pretty gutted, there’s probably stuff I don’t even realise is gone yet till I go looking for it. The insurance has been less than stellar - they appointed a ‘specialist’ company that deals in tools aledgedly. each time they email, I reply within an hour and then they reply a day later. .. 1; please send us a list of what’s been taken and the value 2; do you have model numbers for <random items from list> 3; do you have prices for those items 4; GOTO 2 Including - and this was the one that broke me “do you have details of the battery charger?” I mean seriously, I felt like replying ‘just google it’. At the end of the day whatever they give me to replace everything is just going to be added to next years renewal price anyway. Know how bad things are; the only drill I’ve got left is a 14.4v IKEA one. The shame Rapulum_Dei fucked around with this message at 13:31 on Mar 28, 2020 |
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Mar 28, 2020 13:25
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I decided to test the runout of the inside of the ER-32 holder I have and it was a whole tenth of a mm! I tried to chuck it in the horizontal spindle and the runout was .02mm or .001", which is more acceptable I guess. Tested both spindles directly against the taper (done that before too) and they both check out within spec, total runout of 4-5 microns. I'm guessing there's something inside the taper on the vertical head. I took a good look and found galling damage at the very edge of the bottom of the taper, with a raised burr. I took a small diamond file and arkansas slip stone and marked out the area with a sharpie so I could see where I was working. Some careful work and I'm back to .01mm runout which I guess is acceptable, half a thou in inches.  I think the quality of the cut improved a lot when I got the burr removed from the taper:  That's the result of several cuts, I mean I think maybe the mill can take a cut like that, if I went slow and used cooling. But I machined this dry. I know it would most definitly take it with the horizontal setup.
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Apr 1, 2020 17:19
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i've been working on an electronics project that really does perfectly straddle electronicthread and metalthread and i really should have been crossposting it here from the beginning. i'm experimenting with fabricating my own version a quack electrotherapy device from the mid-1800s called a pulvermacher chain, read up on it here- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulvermacher%27s_chain chemically it's just a classic voltaic battery pile, a battery of power-producing cells made from dissimilar metals physically-separated but electrically-connected with an electrolytic fluid. what's neat about the chain is its unique form-factor and modular design- it's a length of metal chain that generates electricity, but you can also add or remove links as needed to alter the voltage/current produced. this made it more popular as an early power source for experimenters than as a medical device. here's the original design, which used two electrode wires wrapped around wooden spacer dowels for each cell: the design was improved over time, the later models made use of tubing and sheet metal stampings, like this example:  anyways: the OG pulvermacher chain used zinc and copper electrodes, which had the downside of needing to be soaked in an acidic electrolyte like vinegar. if you substitute magnesium for the zinc, though, you get two huge improvements: 1) the voltage produced per cell is nearly doubled, reducing the number of links needed for a given power supply; but more importantly 2) many electrolytes will activate the battery, including plain water or salt water. plain ol' sweat will work just fine. back in the 1800s magnesium was an absurdly expensive metal, so this configuration was apparently not really used in commercial models despite the benefits. in the year 2020, magnesium is cheap, even easily-available in certain 'profiles' like ignition ribbon used to light thermite. I even have an unopened roll on hand. see where this is going? finding myself extremely bored in social isolation, I have taken it upon myself to produce a modern magnesium-copper pulvermacher chain-based power source, which will generate useful electricity simply by being worn by a living, sweating human being. i'm treating it as an experiment/art project for the time being, but I want to actually make something practical- so i'm simultaneously designing a (more conventionally-produced) power regulator and battery charger circuit that will turn the fluctuating, very low-amp power from the chain into regulated, steady DC power, likely at 3.3/5V to enable USB device charging. I'm pretty sure I can even continually power small digital devices with this chain if they're designed for low power draw; I hope to come up with some sort of Arduino microcontroller-level device that's suited to the very specific advantages (And disadvantages) of this very weird, idk what to call it, experimental art battery gonna quote-bomb my previous relevant content from electrothread to here, via decadent double-posting vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv
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Apr 8, 2020 22:32
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Ambrose Burnside posted:guess who hosed around and made a magnesium-copper pulvermacher chain battery Ambrose Burnside posted:
Ambrose Burnside posted:[responding to previous speculation about attempting to pre-load the cell terminal connections to produce a steadier power supply]
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Apr 8, 2020 22:38
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Ambrose posted:Magnesium breaks when cold worked Have you tried putting a torch on it?  
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Apr 8, 2020 23:50
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shame on an IGA posted:Have you tried putting a torch on it? That's an incredibly bright idea.
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Apr 8, 2020 23:58
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Yooper posted:That's an incredibly bright idea. Blindingly obvious
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Apr 8, 2020 23:59
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Where should I look (portland or area if anyone knows specifics) for steel tubing/pipe/used fire extinguisher tanks basically anything I can mess around with to make simple steel crucibles? I'm working on my own electric furnace and i watched some videos on steel crucibles (graphite seem to not last long). I'd like to make my own and also practice welding.
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Apr 9, 2020 14:16
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I don't know about your area in particular, but my local scrap metal recycling place has been pretty helpful with that kind of thing.
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Apr 9, 2020 14:55
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LegoMan posted:Where should I look (portland or area if anyone knows specifics) for steel tubing/pipe/used fire extinguisher tanks basically anything I can mess around with to make simple steel crucibles? I'm working on my own electric furnace and i watched some videos on steel crucibles (graphite seem to not last long). I'd like to make my own and also practice welding. What metal are you looking to cast? How large a charge do you want to be able to melt? Steel crucibles are a good place to start for many applications, particularly non-structural aluminium casting; as you’ve intuited they’re relatively accessible/DIY-friendly, and are indeed more durable than graphite or refractory-based crucibles in some ways. The critical caveats are 1) steel crucibles are, at first, very mechanically-robust and basically immune to crucible-destroying thermal shock/droppage Incidents. The catch is that steel oxidizes aggressively in the heat of a furnace that’s open to the atmosphere as yours likely will be (vs vacuum smelters or those filled w a shielding gas). with repeated uses the walls and base of a steel crucible will thin continually, until one fateful smelt when the bottom falls out from the weight of the charge, or the gripping force of the tongs makes it crumble. all crucibles are consumable components, but steel crucibles generally degrade exponentially faster even assuming proper use/handling. 2) Steel’s mechanical properties decline precipitously while at elevated temps. This is the principle blacksmithing exploits. It also means a steel crucible will become putty-soft and structurally-unsuitable at the casting temps of most metals. Aluminium, lead and pewter melt low enough for this to not be an issue, as well as zinc, quality zinc casting alloys like Zamak, and even zinc’s wretched children, “assorted pot-metals”. 3) this is the most serious issue for people who stick with metal casting past experimenting: steel crucibles contaminate most any metal melted in them with iron. they effectively create uncontrolled alloys with mystery metal proportions out of anything melted in them, which is conceptually neat but extremely undesirable. this isn’t an issue if you’re making small decorative castings, but is absolutely unacceptable if you’re casting structural or mechanically-critical aluminium parts where an unexpected and premature failure could represent a safety issue to yourself or especially others. assuming a small-medium size aluminium smelter: a welded steel crucible is probably a good place to start, particularly if fabricating it yourself isn’t an obstacle. If you want to cast precious metals or cuprous alloys, steel won’t cut it. and if you want to cast REALLY low-melting stuff like pewter/lead, a melting pot + bottom-pouring ladle is the way to go. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 17:17 on Apr 9, 2020 |
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Apr 9, 2020 17:11
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I'm just melting down scrap aluminum for small casting projects. I want to melt copper but I know I need better crucible material for that. My graphite one did well for that before the heating element burnt in half (cheap poo poo) and I decided to make my own furnace using the guts from the one I bought off amazon.
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Apr 10, 2020 05:54
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Metal dudes do any metals other than copper and silver kill germs on their surface quickly, and do they have to be like polished to work?
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Apr 10, 2020 06:11
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http://imgur.com/a/swWuh5l It's not pretty to look at but once the materials arrive I'll be using the smaller firebricks as a removable insert so heating elements can be replaced easily. The grinding disk is a 4 inch reference so I know how much space I have. I am going to refractory the poo poo out of it and theres a graphite plate on the bottom. The last picture is one I posted earlier and is basically old iron wood burning stove that I hollowed out for this project
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Apr 10, 2020 06:17
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Ambrose Burnside posted:The oligodynamic effect is hella cool and it's criminal that it's almost unknown outside of academic circles b/c, yeah, using self-sterilizing metals for high-contact surfaces is an incredibly effective passive hygiene measure that was once universal in hospitals for their hardware/fixtures before other antibacterial products were opted for for cost-cutting reasons. In answer to shovelbum’s question above, not just empty quoting. Rapulum_Dei fucked around with this message at 07:48 on Apr 10, 2020 |
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Apr 10, 2020 07:45
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Nice I put in a lead bench top at work before the pandemic got big I hope the guy who relieved me appreciates it
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Apr 10, 2020 07:51
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I made a custom coupling for the FP2. The drain hole for the vertical table (moves the X-axis) for cutting fluid is in a very tight spot once the table moves to the extreme right of it's travel, it only has a little clearance between the saddle and table then. The elbow coupling I bought did not fit so I made my own with an integral hose barb, that allowed me to get size down. I had brass to make this from, but brass is expensive and I was afraid of screwing up. Aluminum seemed to work.   
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Apr 10, 2020 10:47
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That's really good looking, how did you hold it to turn the thread? 4-jaw with 1 jaw way out? What order of operations did you use? (I know nothing about machining as you can tell)
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Apr 10, 2020 10:56
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shovelbum posted:Metal dudes do any metals other than copper and silver kill germs on their surface quickly, and do they have to be like polished to work? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oligodynamic_effect There's a lot of research on copper, and a lot of research that's pay walled. Judging by the abstracts different metals behave differently even in regards to the type of germ.
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Apr 10, 2020 11:39
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cakesmith handyman posted:That's really good looking, how did you hold it to turn the thread? 4-jaw with 1 jaw way out? What order of operations did you use? (I know nothing about machining as you can tell) Yeah that's what I did, one jaw way out, it was a bit tricky to set up first because I also had to offset it from the face of the chuck to get it far enough out. Fiddly with the spacer wanting to fall out first. First operation was to cut a smaller block out of a bigger block, which I did with the mill and a slitting saw in the horizontal arbor. And also a bandsaw. Then squaring everything up on the mill before doing the rest on the lathe. I turned the thread first, then bored the hole, so that I would have the maximum stiffness when threading.
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Apr 10, 2020 11:40
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I want to make a square collet block, but I wanted something different. I remembered I read about Stefan Gotteswinter making his own and it had some features I liked. Unfortunately his website has updated and his old projects are gone, but I found it using the wayback machine. With pictures even. https://web.archive.org/web/20180312084715/http://gtwr.de/projects/pro_er25colletblock/index.html So I made my own except for an ER-32 collet instead of an ER-25. Since I have a full set of those already.    I've forgot to model the hole through the screw with the taper, but yeah there should be a hole there so you can put in stuff of any length. This one is longer than most collet blocks so more clamping area in the vice. Dunno when or if I'll get to making it, ideally it should be hardened and ground but I cannot do that at home. Maybe if I could get my hands on something more durable than mild steel it'd be fine. updated image: 
His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 13:56 on Apr 12, 2020 |
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Apr 12, 2020 11:04
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Also anyone know anything about swiss surface grinders. One of these for sale in Finland for 868€ which seems cheap to me for anything swissmade even if it's from the 1970s. I wasn't able to find anyone selling a similar machine with a price, only "request price" kinds of ads. Tripet S.A. based on the images it's an MHPE 500. Still, don't have the ability to get myself a surface grinder right now and this one might be too large anyway. Still I am curious as to what I am missing out on.
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Apr 12, 2020 13:58
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His Divine Shadow posted:Also anyone know anything about swiss surface grinders. One of these for sale in Finland for 868€ which seems cheap to me for anything swissmade even if it's from the 1970s. I wasn't able to find anyone selling a similar machine with a price, only "request price" kinds of ads. Tripet S.A. based on the images it's an MHPE 500. In the US surface grinders sell for $1K fairly often. That said it’s pretty rare that someone really needs a surface grinder.
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Apr 12, 2020 14:05
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His Divine Shadow posted:Also anyone know anything about swiss surface grinders. One of these for sale in Finland for 868€ which seems cheap to me for anything swissmade even if it's from the 1970s. I wasn't able to find anyone selling a similar machine with a price, only "request price" kinds of ads. Tripet S.A. based on the images it's an MHPE 500. http://anglo-swiss-tools.co.uk/tripet-grinding-machines/ Good article on the Tripets, looks to be a good machine. I have two surface grinders, small Harig with manual control and a West German (ELB) surface grinder that is full hydraulic except the Z is manual. We got the Harig for tiny jobs but the ELB is just as easy and the hydraulic feed is a huge time saver. Plus you always need a bigger magnet. The price looks cheap, but like CarForumPoster said, you probably don't need one. I've got a full grind shop and we rarely use ours.
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Apr 12, 2020 14:32
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I don't know, I've been planning on a surface grinder for my shop since 2016. I don't need it any more than I needed the mill and lathe I guess. But it's definitely something I've see a use for with the kinds of stuff I want to tinker with.
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Apr 12, 2020 14:59
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His Divine Shadow posted:I don't know, I've been planning on a surface grinder for my shop since 2016. I don't need it any more than I needed the mill and lathe I guess. But it's definitely something I've see a use for with the kinds of stuff I want to tinker with. That's all the excuse I'd need. Honestly there's stuff that we mill that is fine but we say, "Oh, why not surface grind it too?". We've never gotten into radius dressing or anything like that, but they can be ridiculously capable machines given the right dressing tooling. The only downside to the ELB is the sheer quantity of mist it generates. Without totally enclosing the machine I'm not sure how you'd get around it either.
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Apr 12, 2020 15:03
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Seems like a solution for a low pressure but high volume extraction system, like a dust collector for woodworking, but just vents outside.
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Apr 12, 2020 15:25
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We use our surface grinder a lot. We've got a guy who was a moldmaker for 40-something years because we do a lot of gauges for a major firearms company. Also with wire edm you end up working with a lot of hardened materials so a grinder is very helpful there too.
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Apr 12, 2020 15:50
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I'm not saying they aren't useful, they a ubiquitous machine tool. I've used one when needed myself. If you're a home gamer and you haven't needed one in the 4 years you've been considering one, you prob don't need one. When you get a print that specs a surface finish or GDT callout that screams surface grinder, then give up that shop space to one. Otherwise put $800 into better calipers, gages, 3D printer, tool setting, etc.
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Apr 12, 2020 16:54
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Because I've been building a shop for the last 4 years. I do what I can and put the other stuff on hold, I made it this far without a mill and only a lathe too.
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Apr 12, 2020 17:38
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