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It's definitely the most technical of the common welding processes, and I think the one where you're most able to damage your equipment. But if you look up how to keep from sticking your electrode I think that's the main thing that would keep you from just experimenting without the worries of spending money replacing parts. I learned gas welding first and it was a nice transition because the rod and heat movement is similar but a lot more forgiving. Other than that I don't think there's any great transition other than just doing it. Other than learning bad habits though I don't think there's any specific negative to noodling around on your own.
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Mar 7, 2020 02:57
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rump buttman posted:how hard is it to TIG? I learned the basics with some YouTube videos (Jody @ WeldingTipsandTricks). Beyond that it was time, frustration, lots of trips back and forth to sharpen the tungsten, and eventually I could make a small crappy bead. It makes me really appreciate some of the welds you see online. Carbon steel with stainless rod seemed to be the easiest, I had the most difficult time with aluminum.
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Mar 7, 2020 03:18
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rump buttman posted:how hard is it to TIG? Starting with oxyfuel and working up to TIG welding is a good way to get accustomed to the process. What kind of TIG setup is it? Does it have high frequency remote starting through either the torch handle or a foot pedal? Scratch starting TIG is an absolute pain and without a lot of experience will often lead to a stuck or contaminated tungsten electrode. If it is high freq, for practice I recommend running lap joints with thin material and simply melting them together without feeding filler metal, this will get you used to the heat control and manipulating the torch/not contaminating tungsten while also removing the simplest variable from the process. You can probably learn on your own by watching videos when it comes to DC and mild steel - stainless, aluminum, and other alloys/exotics are not something you should attempt for quite some time.
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Mar 7, 2020 03:21
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Thanks for the info. I dropped an aluminum block I have hours into and hosed up two corners. It's going to cost me a half day to drop it off at the welders. Stuff like this comes up a few times a year. There's a miller syncrowave at the shop collecting dust I'm thinking about learning. I'm trying to figure if I have the bandwidth to dedicate into getting good enough for simple stuff like fixing small dings in aluminum (6061, 7075) and steel (s7, p20, 4140, h13). I'm leaning towards, I probably don't
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Mar 7, 2020 04:34
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rump buttman posted:Thanks for the info. I dropped an aluminum block I have hours into and hosed up two corners. It's going to cost me a half day to drop it off at the welders. Stuff like this comes up a few times a year. There's a miller syncrowave at the shop collecting dust I'm thinking about learning. I'm trying to figure if I have the bandwidth to dedicate into getting good enough for simple stuff like fixing small dings in aluminum (6061, 7075) and steel (s7, p20, 4140, h13). Well carbon steels require the least practice as far as building decent technique if you're just aiming to be able to do buildup work. Afaik all those steels are weldable if you follow proper pre and post heat procedures and have the corresponding filler metal if you need to maintain the metallurgical properties. Aluminum is another ballgame. For example, 7075 is not a weldable alloy as its notorious for cracking in the heat affected zone created by a weld bead. Welding aluminum can get complicated due to aluminum's much higher heat conductivity so you may require a preheat depending on the size of the damaged part. Then you also bring in the variables of AC current frequency, wave form, and balance and things start to become quite complicated. I'm not trying to dissuade you, just trying to give you a sense of what's involved. Both are very doable but there is much more to be learned for welding aluminum versus carbon steel.
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Mar 7, 2020 04:57
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otoh: tacking a blob of metal onto a dent to be machined back to size is about the easiest thing you can do with a TIG. give it a shot, the worst that could happen is your scrapped part remains scrapped and you waste a couple hours
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Mar 7, 2020 05:29
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Personally I think if your plan involves aluminum you are starting to get way outside the realm of messing around on your own, given you have an actual need past just burning rod to learn. I think it would definitely not be worth your time. If it would be that useful I'd say get some guided instruction by someone proficient. Edit: Sagebrush posted:otoh: tacking a blob of metal onto a dent to be machined back to size is about the easiest thing you can do with a TIG. I guess to balance out these different viewpoints: it comes down to what level of quality you need or expect. Both the posts above me are right, just depends on what you need out of it. threelemmings fucked around with this message at 06:19 on Mar 7, 2020 |
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Mar 7, 2020 06:16
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Crankit posted:Have you tested it with a magnet? First thing that I’ll do when it gets here
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Mar 7, 2020 06:18
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Yooper posted:I learned the basics with some YouTube videos (Jody @ WeldingTipsandTricks). Beyond that it was time, frustration, lots of trips back and forth to sharpen the tungsten, and eventually I could make a small crappy bead. It makes me really appreciate some of the welds you see online. Carbon steel with stainless rod seemed to be the easiest, I had the most difficult time with aluminum. I find stainless to be the easiest to weld, it just behaves real nicely.
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Mar 7, 2020 10:21
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Professor Shark posted:First thing that I’ll do when it gets here You can also give it the ol' Archimedes dip- drop it into a cylinder full of water, measure the vertical water displacement and use it + the cylinder diameter to calculate the buckle's displaced volume, then weigh it w a sensitive (like 0.01g accuracy or better) scale. divide mass by volume to get the density, and compare it to elemental densities to see what it's closest to. Pure silver is 10.5 g/cm3, sterling should be a little lighter, closer to 10; meanwhile steel is almost half that density, and copper/brass are all 8-9g/cm3 iirc, so there's enough of a difference that even a crude measurement should be indicative. There are ways to cheat a density test- like including a carefully-sized slug of a heavier-than-silver element like lead, bismuth, tungsten, etc inside the casting, so the average density looks 'correct'- but nobody's doing it for a $80 belt buckle.
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Mar 7, 2020 22:52
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a case where that sort of counterfeiting actually IS, or was, done is on counterfeit gold bullion coins, you used to be able to buy imitation krugerrands and maple leaves and stuff that had a tungsten slug in their cores so the weight would come out right. you could get em from Aliexpress and the like but i think China cracked down on the factories making them. it's not a cheap thing to do to a high quality standard, the coins included a large amount of real gold to fool destructive surface tests, and were otherwise made to an excellent quality + had serial numbers that somehow checked out. apparently they regularly fool appraisers who don't do x-ray assays (or the later 'ring test' that emerged specifically to detect slugged coins) and are probably in general investment circulation in fairly large quantities. they cost almost half the price of an actual gold bullion piece but you'd still clear like $500 per coin if you could sell them to someone. e: like here's an example, guess there was no crackdown b/c they're being very explicit about their products being for deception/fraud purposes, lol http://www.tungsten-alloy.com/tungsten-alloy-fake-gold.html alibaba's got em too, if you're willing to buy in quantity- https://www.alibaba.com/product-det....dca92934tlmncM apparently the reason this became widely-known is because some manhattan jeweller needing casting gold in a pinch bought a fairly large gold bar from the biggest + most trusted bullion seller in the city, and when he went to melt it a bunch of tungsten rods tumbled out of the melt, lol Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Mar 7, 2020 |
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Mar 7, 2020 22:54
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That first link is amazing.quote:Owning to its excellent properties of tungsten such as high density with small volume, high melting point, excellent hardness, superior wearing resistance, high ultimate tensile strength, high ductility, tungsten fake gold product always be used such as darts, golf club, fishing weight, ballast in yacht, racing car, and aircraft; Also because of its properties like high temperature resistance, low vapor pressure, nuisance free, non-toxic and environmental friendly, good corrosion resistance, wonderful shock resistance, the products can also used as heat sinks, crankshaft, counterweight in oil drill, mine exploitation and so on.
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Mar 8, 2020 01:42
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Thinking of buying a mig welder, I manage just fine with stick and tig, but sometimes I feel I could get things done faster with a mig, 80% of the time. Would not get rid of the tig/stick though, too useful... But I am coming to see the merit of mig welders for general fabrication and hot gluing metal together.
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Mar 11, 2020 12:39
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Hi temperature spray painting is great for quick and dirty work imo. I'm a fan of the mig almost as much as the tig and one day I'll own either both or a decent mig tig stick combo Tig is like stitching, whereas mig is a hot glue gun hooked up to an air compressor lol I just started a new job in nuclear and as part of our waste processing we use electron beam welding and let me tell you that's the equivalent of surgery on a grape
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Mar 11, 2020 13:10
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We've got a Millermatic 211 at the shop for gluing poo poo together and it's been one of our most useful purchases.
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Mar 11, 2020 18:20
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I'm probably looking at something used, probably from the 1990s like my current welder. I'm pretty much a Kemppi man myself. The kempomat 250 would be nice if I can find one for a decent price, they still seem to command high prices from many sellers. I think the kempomats like these are 3 phase rectifiers, or they might be early thyristor based inverters like my current stick/tig welder. Either way they produce a nice smooth arc, just heavy which is not a problem for me. I'm looking for something under 500 euros, sometimes people want almost 1000€ for these machines and I think that's just insanity on their part. I can get a brand new Kemppi mig welder (200A) like this for 1265€  Or the 170A version of this for 990€ EDIT: Found some manuals and the old kempomats are thyristor based, so a sorta inverter. It's hard to say it seems, some people consider thyristor based welders as diode rectifiers, while Arcon thinks they are a type of inverter. At any rate it's a switching power supply unit, just like 2khz instead of 20khz like an igbt. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 08:12 on Mar 12, 2020 |
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Mar 12, 2020 05:43
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Installing a one shot lubrication system on mt FP2, it took a while to get a hold of all the fittings and then some didn't fit and I had to order again... and I made some of my own parts on the lathe too because I got tired of waiting, made a 6mm tube to 3/8x28 TPI adapter to mount the manifold, the tube end mounted on a 6mm compression fitting. It was a PITA to fit the manifold to the pump. I wanted to get rid of the 90 degree bend and mount the manifold straight to the pump but it wasn't possible, pump did not work without the elbow. So I had t mount it skewed like this to clear. Anyway it's almost installed. Need to figure out how to pull the line for the 3rd oil nipple that's on the operator side.  Perhaps like this, I believe it can be made to clear if I can attach it somehow. Guess more holes have to be drilled for some hose clamps, which I am not thrilled about. I'd love to come up with some way that skips that.  EDIT: Also made a simple "cart" for my welder, wanted something low profile that minimized the space it takes up. The square tube on the back is an L-shape and welded underneath, I will make something to clamp the argon bottle to it. And hooks to hang the cables from.  Note, the welding was not done where the pic was taken, it was done outside since I stick welded it. His Divine Shadow fucked around with this message at 05:57 on Mar 18, 2020 |
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Mar 18, 2020 05:54
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His Divine Shadow posted:Perhaps like this, I believe it can be made to clear if I can attach it somehow. Guess more holes have to be drilled for some hose clamps, which I am not thrilled about. I'd love to come up with some way that skips that. Magnets? Or is your machine not ferromagnetic? (Is that the right word?)
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Mar 18, 2020 09:32
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Might work (it's cast iron), though I am afraid of it gathering crap and metallic debris. I'm wondering if I can just duct tape it... Or use some adhesive goo of some kind. I will mount a DRO scale that will hide it anyway.
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Mar 18, 2020 09:59
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cakesmith handyman posted:Magnets? Or is your machine not ferromagnetic? (Is that the right word?) Ferromagnetic is correct if it's an iron or steel alloy that's of any of the relevant magnetic phases (ferrous, martensitic?? I can't remember, it's been a while since I did materials science lol)
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Mar 18, 2020 12:58
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His Divine Shadow posted:Might work (it's cast iron), though I am afraid of it gathering crap and metallic debris. I'm wondering if I can just duct tape it... Or use some adhesive goo of some kind. I will mount a DRO scale that will hide it anyway. A blob of silicone sealant will do that perfectly then.
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Mar 18, 2020 14:02
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gonna gently caress around and get back into weaving chainmaille, given *gestures at potential months of social isolation*
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Mar 18, 2020 17:45
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Ambrose Burnside posted:gonna gently caress around and get back into weaving chainmaille, given *gestures at potential months of social isolation* Doooo it.
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Mar 18, 2020 18:15
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I did it using spring washers and the 4 in 1 pattern. The problem was getting the fastener supplier to sell me them by the lb.
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Mar 18, 2020 21:55
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Check out The Ring Lord in Canada, and Rome Specialty Company ("butt rings" sold for fishing tackle purposes mostly). Those are the two best places I know of to buy bulk rings
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Mar 18, 2020 22:16
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Nice try but there’s no way I’m googling ‘butt rings’. No offence Ambrose.
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Mar 18, 2020 22:44
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cakesmith handyman posted:A blob of silicone sealant will do that perfectly then. Or putting the magnet inside a ziploc type bag. That will let you clean the magnetic shmoo off occasionally.
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Mar 18, 2020 22:48
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There's stick-on tube clamps, just peel and stick. https://www.google.com/search?q=peel+and+stick+tube+clamps like this https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-3-8-in-Plastic-Kwik-Clips-6-Pack-GKK-1538/100161019 
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Mar 18, 2020 22:57
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Rapulum_Dei posted:Nice try but there’s no way I’m googling ‘butt rings’. That was me - if you go to the rome specialty co website, that's the menu item you want to look under. I'm not sure I'd Google it either.
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Mar 18, 2020 23:19
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Fuckin sissies. I'm at work too. 
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Mar 19, 2020 11:07
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Leperflesh posted:There's stick-on tube clamps, just peel and stick. https://www.google.com/search?q=peel+and+stick+tube+clamps Yeah I was looking at these last night, also the same concept but longer lenghts for organizing cables exist. Depends on if I can get it to clear the auto stop levers or not but I think it will.
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Mar 19, 2020 11:30
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Rapulum_Dei posted:I did it using spring washers and the 4 in 1 pattern. The problem was getting the fastener supplier to sell me them by the lb. yeah The Ring Lord is my go-to for bulk rings; that said, back when I was making tons of jewellery I hand-cut the vast majority of my rings. It's slow but v economical and gives you the freedom to experiment with different wire gauges and ring diameters, and the time-consuming aspect isn't such a liability in these isolated times. - buy a couple steel rods of varying diameters to use as mandrels; if you're just weaving 4-in-1 you can get away with a single mandrel but will likely want to try out a few, maybe 1/4" and 5/16" to start; otoh jewellery will usually require a decent variety because slight differences in aspect ratio (wire diameter:mandrel diameter) have a big impact on tidiness and overall quality of execution. TheRingLord sells excellent mandrel assortments in 0.5mm / 1/32" diameter increments, vs. hardware store rods which cost 10x as much and only come in 1/16" or 1/8" increments if you're lucky - buy a jeweller's saw, a couple packs of fine-toothed blades and some saw lube - prep the mandrels by drilling a hole near the end that's slightly bigger than your wire diameter; alternately you can use a hacksaw to cut a slot about 1/4" deep into one end with similar dimensions - buy some soft wire, galvanized steel is fine for cheap decorative maille and is easy on the fingers compared to stainless wire; for jewellery or just for learning, annealed brass or copper wire are excellent - wrap wire around mandrel to produce a tight coil, like a coil spring with no spacing between the wires. start the wire in the hole/slot to prevent it uncoiling under tension on ya. there are a million hand-wrapping techniques, you'll figure it out for yourself. My preferred technique uses a bar clamp secured over the wire end at the end of the mandrel to act as a 'crank' of sorts you can turn easily, with the other end of the rod set in a metal cup "socket" braced against the floor to let me spin the mandrel without it getting away from me. Then I start turning the mandrel with one hand while using the gloved thumb of my other hand to guide the wire onto the mandrel in the tightest possible coil. - Once you have your coil, use the jeweller's saw to cut a slit down one side of it, turning a 50-turn coil into 50 butted jump rings. steel is a bit of a pain to cut this way b/c the saw is only slightly harder than the stock, but copper/brass/precious metals cut very quickly and cleanly and leave a very small almost burr-less kerf that can be made invisible during assembly. do not snap the saw blade and then accidentally run it through your thumb, it's barbed like a fishhook and will need to be pushed through the other side. its so bad. this part is so critical to you not giving up on maille - buy smooth-jawed pliers for assembly or i'll come to your house in the middle of the night and make a mess of your pots and pans. even if it's for non-jewellery steel maille. the tooth-marks from pliers are very obvious and are the #1 beginner's piece Tell. i strongly recommend parallel-jaw pliers, ideally dressed by the user to polish the jaw faces and break the hard jaw corners that'll mar your work. they distribute force as evenly as possible + over the greatest possible area, so even if you need to really reef on em b/c you're weaving a work-hardened material, marking of the rings is minimized. ( https://www.amazon.com/Mazbot-Smooth-Flat-Parallel-Pliers/dp/B01FSV4PME/ this sort of plier, a pair of them with dressed + polished jaws, are what i`ve gone almost all my maille assembly with, i almost never use delicate chain-nose pliers most people opt for because the narrow jaws are still prone to marking up soft metals, even without teeth) my workflow was to hand-cut all precious metal and jewellery-grade rings, and also hand-cut rings for all maille prototyping where I`m experimenting with gauges and ARs to get the best possible fit-up in the final product. I`d go right to TheRingLord to buy steel/aluminium rings for larger non-jewellery maille projects because it's just not worth your time to hand-cut those for long, but I'd still do a sample with hand-cut rings to verify that I was buying the exact size of ring I really wanted for a given piece. I also did some production runs/larger commissions of "jewellery quality", and I also bought the rings there, b/c time=money when it's a commish, but never without at least doing a trial weave first. i'd recommend the same for other people- buying rings is often the smart way to go, but it also excludes you from doing a p important step in Maille Product Development, the finicky iterating + experimenting bit. Ambrose Burnside fucked around with this message at 19:04 on Mar 19, 2020 |
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Mar 19, 2020 18:35
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Yeah when I work in precious metal I hand coil and cut my rings. In steel, aluminum, or titanium though it's just not worth my time anymore so I buy them premade.
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Mar 19, 2020 19:37
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Copper is one of the only surfaces coronavirus doesn't live long on so we should probably use copper mail to replace cloth in general.
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Mar 19, 2020 20:00
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The oligodynamic effect is hella cool and it's criminal that it's almost unknown outside of academic circles b/c, yeah, using self-sterilizing metals for high-contact surfaces is an incredibly effective passive hygiene measure that was once universal in hospitals for their hardware/fixtures before other antibacterial products were opted for for cost-cutting reasons. It's not just copper, brasses/nickel silvers/all cuprous alloys exhibit the effect proportional to their copper content, plus all other noble/heavy metals like lead, gold, silver, etc. silver is actually much more aggressive in its antimicrobial action than copper across the board and begins self-cleaning almost instantaneously + totally sterilizes itself significantly faster than copper does, but silver isnt' FDA approved for this purpose (the colloidal silver cranks ruined this for everyone) so it isn't being tested w covid-19. lighter/less noble metals, your steels and aluminums and nickels and so on, do not exhibit this effect and act like other non-porous surfaces irt microbe tenacity. I'm actually modifying my little rapid-tooling urethane metal embossing pet project i've been plugging away at to address this, by showing that the method can rapidly produce custom-tailored antimicrobial copper faceplates/cases/housings for critical transmission vectors like light switches, cellphones, elevator buttons etc. i was looking for a tasty user application and this is the best one i could ask for, i think
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Mar 19, 2020 20:44
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This saturday I took the first test cuts on my FP2. I finally got all the oil pumping to work, some self-adhesive cable channels worked perfectly to keep the oil tube in place. Very light passes since I don't trust the setup to hold. I disassembled it soon afterwards to properly dial in the table to the axis of the spindle. My first project will probably be some improvised T-nuts and holddowns for the vise. Ordered real T-nuts online but I might just make some square nuts so I can proceed and don't have to wait for it ot arrive.  
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Mar 23, 2020 07:28
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Looks great. You'll want a ton of clamping parts, that's for sure. T-nuts, studs, step blocks, heavy washers, etc. You'll never have enough.
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Mar 23, 2020 14:53
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Nice! This has been a cool project to follow. Congrats on the chips.
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Mar 23, 2020 19:35
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I hope I can get working on the DRO soon, but first priority is to get the vise done. And some parallels are gonna be needed just so I can stand off things. I got this recently too, 10mm plate or bit more than 3/8. I'm gonna need a lot of zip discs, cutting into rectangles, 40x400mm and 45x400mm mainly 4 of each. For a 2x72 belt grinder build. 
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Mar 25, 2020 10:06
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Been fiddling with the adjustments on the machine and taking some heavier cuts, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CcJNBUWCAm8  
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Mar 25, 2020 19:50
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