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So I'm finally in one place for more then a year. Getting a house again. Downside (well upside) is that it's Hawaii. There isn't much around as far as used equipment. Im guessing old-world anvils free shipping doesn't count for me. Any advice on getting equipment around here?
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Apr 3, 2011 03:59
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SmokeyXIII posted:
Congratulations, one step closer to a nuclear welder certification too
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Apr 21, 2011 04:43
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As Always I envy your work. Need to learn so I can combine the SFX kit I made with one.
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May 14, 2011 22:02
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Babies first silversmithing: I'm so proud of my meager pendant.
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Mar 11, 2015 20:09
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Pagan posted:The red hard steel I was complaining about earlier is "mystery ferrous metal." I have no idea what it is, got it from a scrapyard. It's AMAZING. It hardens like glass but once tempered is nigh unbreakable. It will, however, chip and crack the second you try to forge it below a red heat. No idea what it is, but I treated it like normal steel and that seemed to work well. The tools I made are still sharp, even after some punishing use. HY-80? Are you 100% it is steel? Maybe like Inconel?
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Mar 14, 2015 00:48
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Thirding "Anything involving penetration has to be anodized" In other news my slow foray into making doodads with silver and copper continue. I'm making a copper toothbrush stand, these will make up the left and right vertical pieces on top of an 8ga base piece.  And random experiments attempting to hot work 1/10th inch square stock silver! (URL since timg isn't working for me right now?) http://i.imgur.com/lQvO9Ma.jpg http://i.imgur.com/mwTkaWL.jpg
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Apr 2, 2015 19:39
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Ambrose Burnside posted:i got all hosed up on mad max and couldnt help myself Are you using a pitch pot for these?
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Jun 10, 2015 23:57
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Do you get that effect with the jump rings just by the way you sized them? That must have taken quite a while to solder.
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Jun 22, 2015 18:42
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On my list of things to get are setting burrs and a smaller soldering torch so I can start doing jewelry. People love that stuff as gifts. Right now I can make rings and use precast prong settings but thats about as small as I get.
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Jul 19, 2015 17:10
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goodness posted:Combination of metalworking, wire wrapping and jewel cutting from a person I follow on FB. Thats beautiful.
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Jul 20, 2015 17:50
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Slung Blade posted:Friend of mine asked me to make some "Beersbie" poles, which I had never heard of. You balance a beer bottle on the platform after sticking the pole in the ground, and try to knock it off with a frisbee, other person has to try to catch it before it hits the ground or something. Sounds fun. Also known as Polish Horseshoes among my friends. One point to your team if they fumble the frisbee. Two points if you knock over the bottle and they let it touch the ground. And it is fun, really calls for a trial phase before you ship the product.
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Jul 30, 2015 02:03
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I've been given a Lincoln 225-S that was either made in '81 or '91 (or '71 if they even made them back then? The date code is -104) Is it worth keeping? Seems it can weld pretty heavy stuff, haven't tried it yet besides seeing if it works. I can't think of what I'd want to do with it besides use it to fabricate more fabrication tools. All i've ever done is tack welded stuff but having it makes me want to learn to weld at the least. Is there a better way to learn than just grabbing structural plate/angle/tube pieces and joining them? I've got a chop saw that I can get a disk for an a small band saw. I've also got an acetylene torch, but no oxygen. Going to read up some on what to do.
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Jul 8, 2017 00:55
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So theoretically, if I restore the old 15kW 480/220 3 phase diesel generator at my parents house I could run some really nice shop gear off of it? I'm an EE so its something I've considered for a while but now I feel I might have a good reason too.
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Jul 9, 2017 16:17
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I'm not sure if this is a metal work question or more of a pure material science question: I'm trying to find ways to mark weld seems in a large water tank. You'd think it would be simple, but it has to be visible through 80 feet of water and last as long as the stainless it's attached too. Gotta be applied on site after the welding (still dry, luckily) and can't reduce the strength or corrosion resistance of the stainless in anyway. Colorful Epoxies got put on the back burner because nobody can seem to find to find one that will last decades. I've found a ton of Cermet coatings that would be great, any sort of metal matrix coating seems like it would be a winner. I don't know of the methods to grow them in the field though. Thermal spraying? Some sort of mobile box that does vapor deposition? Someone's gotta have done this before, right?
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Jul 14, 2017 19:36
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CarForumPoster posted:I still think your best bet is colorful epoxies. Whats the function of it? Crack when the weld seams crack? Does it need to be metal based for some reason? Everything I've found doesn't claim to hold up under water. The epoxies in current use, while an older formula, need to be replaced every few years. It's mostly for an identification system for the areas around the weldments and what's in/under them as an operator aide.
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Jul 14, 2017 23:58
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Yooper posted:Stencil and aluminum oxide blast? Too hard to see at a distance, plus they don't want anything to potentially weaken the main structure, so any sort of abrasion marking system was also ruled out for that purpose. shame on an IGA posted:burnished gold foil? Too easy to scratch off. CarForumPoster posted:You can't just use paint? Doesn't last long enough, same as the rest of the epoxies tried. Hence the idea to see if there was a metallic matrix/cermet that would last full length of the facility. But everything i've found is about applying them to small tool heads or turbine blades during the manufacturing.
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Jul 15, 2017 00:45
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shame on an IGA posted:A line of colored glass frit bonded in place with a torch? I haven't heard of that before. A quick wiki doesn't mention anything about it being used on stainless. And wouldn't the glass crack over time?
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Jul 15, 2017 01:11
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:A stainless flag welded in next to the main weld. The first kind of solution I tried to get them to bite on. Stainless and welder hours are cheep compared to other line items in the budget. Will report back with what they go with. And maybe report back in 10 year increments about how it held up.
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Jul 15, 2017 03:27
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So is there no reason to hammer away at swords anymore? You can just cast one, throw it in a 50 ton press, and then heat treat it and it comes out better than any actual sword ever used in combat?
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Jul 28, 2017 03:08
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Can't easily chop off the steel spear head if its got an aluminum shaft! We need to spin up some production lines, the future of post-apocalyptic warfare is here.
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Jul 29, 2017 00:27
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All I'm heading is that there's a market for electronicly controlled electric heat treating furnaces that are home sized. 
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Jul 30, 2017 08:10
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DreadLlama posted:Ok. I won't try to case harden a shovel blade by sticking it in maple sap arch. I don't think a syrup evaporator has anywhere near enough temp to make it brittle? Maybe if you were blasting the steel with the heat source directly?
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Aug 7, 2017 19:22
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Are the hinges on it weird like that to account for different thicknesses of metal or the longer stroke? I'm missing why they went with such a weird design. Also don't do it because it's expensive? I'd use more copper, and rather than use thermoset use varnish then vacuum cure it.
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Aug 12, 2017 12:29
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Sagebrush posted:"A few dozen litres" of mostly-water weighs about a hundred pounds. If you're designing a steel frame like that and worrying about whether it can stand up to a hundred pounds of load, hardened steel or not, you've done something extremely wrong. Most people's experiences are with aluminum in their IKEA furniture, and don't really have a concept of how strong steel is in comparison. Unless you've taken some materials science classes most people just don't have the experience to estimate high weights and stresses outside the human scale
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Aug 13, 2017 16:31
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His Divine Shadow posted:They use that design so they can have a completely open design, with this hinge they can hang stuff over the side and only bend a portion of the part being worked on, with a normal hinge you could not do that. But the hinge is under the bending lever!? Hanging stuff over the side is just a feature of the magneticly couples piece.
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Aug 14, 2017 06:47
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That reminds me of a research project me and some friends were kicking around at college: Doing a survey of manufacturing equipment manufacturers. Figure out material cost, energy cost, and labor hours for producing a machine (this started with talking about the cost of mills and 3D printers) then you'd go to their subcontractor and find out the same stats for all the assemblies like bearings and tooling. Up and down the supply chain as far as you could. Even talking to that crazy austrialian who makes simple tools Make it an open source database It's kicking around as a potential masters/phd thesis. A database where you could theoretically get estimates for building your way from sticks and rocks to a modern computer. (This was pre-factorio too)
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Aug 24, 2017 01:58
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So I picked up a 16HP dual speed three phase motor for free. Was thinking of making a solid state variable speed controller for it (As I'm an electrical engineer and that would be a good project for continually hating my life for a month) But then i'd need to find something to actually build with it. Almost seems too powerful for the size of mill that I could easily build, but I do want a 3 axis, or a lathe.
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Sep 24, 2017 17:12
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shame on an IGA posted:Marry it to a hydraulic pump and become the envy of your log-splitting friends That does seem ideal
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Sep 24, 2017 22:37
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Once it's straight you can scrub it to get most of the oxidation off. Depending on how long the antenna is going to be and if you want it shiny then you can pickle it. For short elements a Pyrex glass pan or a croc pot works. For longer stuff you can seal up the end of a pipe, I think pvc is fine but I haven't ever done it myself, fill it and use something to keep the solution warm. Pickle can be made at home, it's mostly just hydrochloric acid and some additives, Pool chemicals. If it's going to be outside plating it would be ideal, but a light coat of clearcoat or epoxy will also do to reduce corrosion for hobby purposes. Paint or clearcoat might have some dielectric impact that will change your gains.
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Sep 28, 2017 17:34
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shame on an IGA posted:Who wants to watch a 9-hour NASA training seminar about bolt selection!!??! Unironicly yes. Will be a nice break from electrical connector selection. Ask me about mil-std circular connectors
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Sep 30, 2017 15:50
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mekilljoydammit posted:Is there anything significantly better bang for the buck than MIL-DTL-38999 for applications where I don't have to meet any cert but want durability, lightweight, and weatherproof-ness? Not really. 28840s are the other common one and they tend to be a step up in price and accessory selection. Anphenol (Tuchel, LTW and PCD branches, stupid mergers), TE (Under Deutsch label), and Glenair all make solid non-certified circular connectors that tend be to about half the price, but are effectively the same thing. The benefit of ordering 38999's is how modular they are, and how theoretically you can salvage old ones from any brand and they should fit together, more or less.
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Sep 30, 2017 22:27
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Powerful is a misnomer for a lot of things I have ANSYS Multisim and while its "Powerful" its 40 years of kludged together modules with zero user friendliness. Some of the 'newer' modules like the workbench look good and have a fairly modern workflow setup, while some of the simulation ones still look like they're from windows 95 and run like hot garbage. And there are people who are used to that and think its good software because its Powerful, but its really just stockholm syndrom. (Fusion360 is a good product for real)
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Oct 17, 2017 23:45
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Ambrose Burnside posted:just think, you could pioneer HSM for shapers. get parts out the door 3x as fast as cutting-edge shaper machining circa 90 years ago Since i'm uninformed as to edge shapers, what would be so good about HSM in this case that you can't just CNC? Is it just the precision and repeatability of the depth of cut?
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Oct 18, 2017 19:29
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Ziggy Smalls posted:This might be a bit of a long shot but this is the best thread to ask this in. I remember seeing a youtube video showing the forging process of various Apollo rocket parts especially the nose cone out of exotic metals like niobium. It was some vintage film that was mostly highlighting the giant forging presses involved. I got into a conversation with my metallurgy teacher about it after he mentioned the rocket nozzle materials at this firm he works at called Aerojet. The space flight thread might have someone who knows if not here
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Nov 7, 2017 08:25
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Kinda hard to beat homemade buttplug thread title imho
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Nov 13, 2017 18:30
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    Anyone know what this thing is called? I assume top piece is meant for pins for workholding. The unique part is that the bottom is rounded and sits on a giant felt collar, and can be spun and tilted.
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Nov 22, 2017 02:07
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Ambrose are you still having fun with acrylic? I got tasked with finding a shop that can watercut and laser engrave acrylic! Being on the engineering side and not the production side I can find out how much the material costs but (besides shotgunning emails around to local companies) i'm unfamiliar with getting quotes.
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Nov 29, 2017 06:14
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Ohnonotme posted:I have about 129lb of scrap .925, so plenty of spare for mistakes! Either thats a unit error, or 
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Dec 23, 2017 19:59
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Relavant: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sFrVdoOhu1Q He shows a 1 micron fit in the first minute.
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Jan 30, 2018 14:37
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A Proper Uppercut posted:Yea I knew it wasn't right, but sites like this say otherwise. I must be missing something. Nope, that site is correct, it successfully calculates 1 micron is .039 thou. And since a thou is a thousanth of an inch thats .000039"
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Jan 30, 2018 19:30
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