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Yeah less posting of boring tools and more posting of things you made with boring tools.  
threelemmings fucked around with this message at 13:11 on Jun 7, 2019 |
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Jun 7, 2019 13:07
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Yeah power hammering is a skill all on its own, and that control of pressure and impact is mind blowing once you realize what's possible. With a little learning you can even do stuff like forge leaves using . We did it on a project just to save our arms as we had a project requiring hundreds of leaves and what ended up being 50 to 80 branches all told. E: also for layman description, the "standard" old school power hammer (every shop I've been/worked in they seem to be made between 1870 and 1915) has an motor spinning up a wheel with several belts attached to it. The footpedal is attached to another belt, the more pressure you apply the more force is transferred from motor to striking part of the hammer. Very light pressure it just barely skims the piece, more pressure is full striking. I'm sure our engineering/machining folks can elaborate for the actual mechanics(as seen above). threelemmings fucked around with this message at 13:26 on Oct 5, 2019 |
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Oct 5, 2019 13:08
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We used it for welding when doing repairs of some thinner/older materials or for doing pieces for our gallery where it was so small or the angles meant you wouldn't be able to grind it smooth. But definitely not useful for production and fabrication. I thought it was always enjoyable and kind of relaxing though.
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Nov 10, 2019 19:51
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Jaded Burnout posted:I need to put a ~100º bend in some 6mm zinc-plated steel threaded rod. Probs going to use a butane torch to heat it up and then just bend with pliers. Doesn't have to be super precise, and the threads at the bent part won't be used. Just forming a hook, basically. Depending on the plating don't breathe the bright yellow smoke. If you're just using a mapp torch maybe you're ok, not sure at what temp it starts burning off. Edit for the non-ironworkers: fume fever comes from breathing in certain metals off the forge or when welding, the most notorious being galvanized. If you read forums people freak out that if you breathe in the littlest bit you will die which is untrue, but it definitely does suck and will take you out of action for a day if you get a strong dose. Double e: and just to be clear I'm not saying don't do it, just have good ventilation and don't stick your face in it you'll be fine. threelemmings fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Feb 22, 2020 |
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Feb 22, 2020 20:56
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Yeah that's a good point ref. experience. Also when making mirror frames or very large things with long gentle curves we do it all cold with forks for that reason, consistent slow curves are easier to do cold so you don't have to deal with flat spots or kinks. Guess it depends on your use case here. Also I didn't do the math in my first post. You can definitely make that turn cold by hand as long as it's longer than a foot or so or if you make a monkey tool like Ambrose suggests. Hell you could just find a metal fence or rail and use that as a bending fork, 1/4" is pretty whippy if it has any length at all. threelemmings fucked around with this message at 01:21 on Feb 23, 2020 |
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Feb 23, 2020 01:17
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I didn't even consider how the threading would screw with you like that, though it makes sense seeing the part and how the rod tore, that is a pretty tight turn. It's a good example of how the simplest projects always throw something that'll completely gently caress you over. No matter how you do it, Ambrose's advice on doing the rounding over a larger radius instead of a sharp point is spot on, that and removing threading will definitely reduce the likelyhood it'll crimp. Other than the galvanization making it a bit tricky I personally am still in favor of adding a little heat to it, if you do just make sure you heat the whole turn to keep both the curve and the stresses along the turn even. The heat will help it bend rather than shear in half. But I say that from a blacksmithing perspective and just what I'm used to, I'm not a machinist. Once you do figure out the right way though I guarantee it'll be dead simple and we'll all be pissed off it took so many iterations to get the method right. The complicated stuff usually works out the first time and the easiest jobs always have a catch. threelemmings fucked around with this message at 00:58 on Feb 26, 2020 |
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Feb 26, 2020 00:50
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As always if you want to know the right way to do something, ask two different blacksmiths and you'll get three different answers. Glad you were able to work it out!
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Feb 26, 2020 22:17
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It's definitely the most technical of the common welding processes, and I think the one where you're most able to damage your equipment. But if you look up how to keep from sticking your electrode I think that's the main thing that would keep you from just experimenting without the worries of spending money replacing parts. I learned gas welding first and it was a nice transition because the rod and heat movement is similar but a lot more forgiving. Other than that I don't think there's any great transition other than just doing it. Other than learning bad habits though I don't think there's any specific negative to noodling around on your own.
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Mar 7, 2020 02:57
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Personally I think if your plan involves aluminum you are starting to get way outside the realm of messing around on your own, given you have an actual need past just burning rod to learn. I think it would definitely not be worth your time. If it would be that useful I'd say get some guided instruction by someone proficient. Edit: Sagebrush posted:otoh: tacking a blob of metal onto a dent to be machined back to size is about the easiest thing you can do with a TIG. I guess to balance out these different viewpoints: it comes down to what level of quality you need or expect. Both the posts above me are right, just depends on what you need out of it. threelemmings fucked around with this message at 06:19 on Mar 7, 2020 |
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Mar 7, 2020 06:16
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Yeah you can do it with just clamps and a measuring stick, just clamp the hell out of it and remember to check your diagonals after every joint until it's fully tacked, that way you can tap it back into square. Any other tools you can bring to bear will greatly ease the amount of work and adjustment though.
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Apr 18, 2020 14:52
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Yooper posted:Going live shortly! Hmmm aluminum frame airplanes to increase your available airforce are definitely more on the metalworking side than blacksmithing, can't help you there. You'll have to wait for our machining experts to check the thread. threelemmings fucked around with this message at 01:56 on May 11, 2020 |
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May 11, 2020 01:35
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Welding thin sheet metal is an exercise in the best of times, sounds terrible!
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May 28, 2020 01:00
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Oxy acetylene welding is one of my favorite techniques just because it's relaxing to me and satisfying when you hit the right heat and all of a sudden see everything just go bloop and flow together. Not really practical for most projects but I like it for fine work where I can't grind away the bead of a mig or whatever. The flame straightening video was cool, mostly reminds me of a coworker who had been a car bodywork guy back in his day and was real good at it. When we got restoration jobs involving really thin sheeting like lamp covers and the like it was incredible watching him work with just a torch, a stick of lead to rub on, and a planishing hammer. A lot of his work didn't involve touching the piece at all and was just applying the smallest bits of heat to make different parts bubble up or shrink until the whole thing was even and flat. I have a buddy who's a mechanic and he confirms that professional bodymen work black magic. threelemmings fucked around with this message at 06:06 on Jun 10, 2020 |
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Jun 10, 2020 06:03
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Yeah stick can be messy for sure if you care about the surface look after welding. Definitely one of those where you watch an expert and realize there is real art to what appears to be practical skill The fellas I learned it from mostly talked about using it on small stuff where you couldn't fit a grinder to clean up, so more "artsy" pieces at our shop. I mostly use it where I expect most people would use TIG, which I haven't spent the time to pick up well, but to do fine welds that I don't want or need to go back over later. I've never been happy with anything under 1/2" stock on mig without grinding it away. I need to find a bodywork guy again someday and learn the wu tang oxy secrets.
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Jun 10, 2020 06:14
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I can't speak to specifics about making woodworking knives but I've been getting into chip-carving on the side lately so I can tell you what I know will be important to focus on after being a blacksmith using wood knives. A straight knife is much easier to make and bevel perfectly than a curved one, so depending on your skill level start there. If you're plenty experienced with knives I don't think there's anything too weird in carving stuff that would trip you up, chisels and other carving tools have a specific way to be sharpened but I think the gross forging part isn't too complicated. V or U chisel is probably the most complicated shapes you'd have to deal with as you want it to be perfectly even otherwise you're gouging weird shapes into the wood. My big takeaway from looking at (and using) the different carving knives I've gotten is that a) perfect sharpness is critical and b) a lot of the fine carving knives I've been using are very thin and you tend to want a much thinner taper than you do on a normal knife as you are making very thin precise cuts to the point you are separating the wood fibers and sliding between them, some of mine are like 8 degrees as opposed to the normal 15 to 20 on your pocket or kitchen knife. Some of this is specific to chip knives but it carries to other carving equipment. I think most of your work is going to be sharpening and shaping all the edges to their different required shapes, lot of fiddlework. Woodcarving definitely lives and dies by the quality of your tools, any time I have trouble learning a technique it is usually because my knifes not sharp enough. As long as you are confident in putting a good edge on it just figure out what kind of woodworking your friend most commonly does and Google the basic knives or chisels used for that task. If he carves I think one or two carving knives and then if you feel froggy a couple differently sized or shaped chisels won't go wrong. I know I went a little long about bevels and getting the edge right because it's so important and it's something you wouldn't really realize if you don't carve yourself. I struggled the first week or so of carving because I didn't realize I had to sharpen my tools differently than I was used to. Even after I got them shaving sharp they still weren't behaving like they were supposed to, because the angle wasn't right. threelemmings fucked around with this message at 05:36 on Jun 11, 2020 |
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Jun 11, 2020 05:18
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:tearout *carving ptsd increases* It actually made me appreciate how often you can go back and adjust things in blacksmithing, there's very few terminal operations you can't undo while forging. A missed hammerblow can be frustrating to clean up but it's nothing compared to the despair of slipping with a knife on your last cut and blowing straight through the walls of your carving because you didn't watch the grain or put in a stop cut. 
threelemmings fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Jun 11, 2020 |
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Jun 11, 2020 20:12
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I'm seeing a lot of very clear blueprints and designs but no completed models. The thread demands
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Jun 13, 2020 14:09
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Yeah I'm very much on the smithing side of the thread, my only experience close to machining is using our pirahna irownworker. But I am fascinated by clockwork or the intricate assembly stuff you see machinists sometimes work on, and a self loading crossbow dart gun thingy would probably fit. And while I don't understand all of you guys' lathe posts everyone loves a good machine repair. Maybe one day I'll give in and make a clock. In fact lets see some home assembled stuff, I saw a small IC engine in reddit the other day that was cool as poo poo. Machine people feel free to post dartguns and/or clocks and/or clockguns. threelemmings fucked around with this message at 15:23 on Jun 13, 2020 |
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Jun 13, 2020 15:21
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shovelbum posted:There's a maker/diy forum there, it's a subforum of arts forum there but I want to get it moved to top level since the diy forum here really benefits from not being the grumpy white man central that many similar forums and I think it could be a big draw. Bnr is explicitly super leftist but obviously that's probably beneficial to maintaining an inclusive and not horrible old douche culture I'm not old and I'm p left but grumpily hobbling around the workshop and complaining about my bum leg are my prime attributes don't take that from me. Same reason we unluckily get forging jobs in the summer and fabrication jobs in the winter when it would actually be nice to sit near a fire, comfort is the enemy. threelemmings fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Jun 25, 2020 |
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Jun 25, 2020 21:20
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SeaGoatSupreme posted:. It won't, quote:getting things to a more even heat without worrying about moving it through the fire much. It might, quote:It should also give me the ability to fire really thick, sturdy clay pieces when needed which is something my partners are screaming about. No clay experience to comment but I see the logic with one exception I would consider figuring out a way to cut airflow to two of the tuyeres on the bottom. This at least allows you to play with a more standard setup as well as the triplets as long as your piping goes back far enough to put valves in away from the heat. Some thoughts on potential issues:. No forge will stop you from burning a piece by itself unless it just doesn't let you get hot enough, at which point you're also locking yourself out of forge welding and casting. Size and evenness of a pieces heated area comes down to fire control. I don't know if I have the right words to explain in text but when I want a bigger fire I open up a "pocket" near the base of my working area ahead of time so I'm exposing more raw fuel and for a while after I'll have a larger fire. Most of heat and size of fire is related to airflow, but increasing surface area of burning fuel will also wring extra heat out of it as the fire grows larger, even with no change in air. We were doing scrolls in like 6ft of material sometimes and large twists of whole pickets with good heat control. I'm not trying to be elitist just saying unless we're talking industrial setting no one has a fire big enough that they never have to move a piece, it is a boring bit necessary skill once people get past making hooks and leaves and those lovely RR spike knives we all have hidden in a closet. Also opposite consideration: given how wide the fire seems it will be make sure you're diligent with horseshoeing your coal and always converting coke, I'm assuming it's real easy to end up burning all your fuel out of the middle and hollowing out your fire since normally you work coal -> coke, outside to middle of a single point. Now you've greatly increased the center point that needs coke only, you don't want green coal in the middle of your working fire. Depending on your fire management you could end up with multiple hot and cold spots all in the same fire, which I assume is not great for the clay, so you're going to have to be very on point with your coal. I pick on that because you say you are new and most new folks suck at managing a fire, and worse some don't even realize it is a basic and critical skill in the same vein as knowing how to swing a hammer. (I accept gas is easy mode here but even gas has its issues). As Ambrose said though, be prepared to iterate. The forges where I worked had enough variation with a single tuyere side blast design, you'd get very different amounts of heat and size of the fire from the three forges given the same conditions and smith working them. And that variation was with a very standard and tried and true setup all made by the same guy. Be prepared to play a lot more especially the farther you get off the beaten path. Every forge has a little personality and quirks and I ended up using the "worse" forge most of the time because I had started on it and knew exactly where the heat was and how to get that fire where I wanted it. As long as you get that feel figured out that takes you a long way no matter the design. I'm not saying don't do it, just be mindful of the complications you are likely introducing with an unconventional design. Who knows though, I may be off base because I've never worked (or ever seen, or heard of, honestly) a setup like this. The few multi tuyere designs I've seen have been side blast and lined up in a row. Honestly curious in how it burns and would love to play with it myself just to see how it ends up working and how the fire feels. It sounds fun and the worst case scenario is you learn something. threelemmings fucked around with this message at 11:21 on Jul 11, 2020 |
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Jul 11, 2020 11:01
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Jul 11, 2020 11:22
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SeaGoatSupreme posted:I figured that with the firepot ending up so large to accommodate all three holes that I'd play around with it as is to start, and have fun tinkering with it if I'm not getting exactly what I expect or need out of it at the time. Yeah definitely just run it as is first, as I mentioned it's possible my guesses are wrong, while it is an unconventional setup it could run a lot smoother than I was guessing, it's why I wish I could look over your shoulder and play with the forge myself just to see how those changes affect the fire. Black bear forge as always has good videos, his is great about setting it up the first time and oxidizing flame vs neutral flame, but this one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kj6jxIbCTY0 I think is better because it also did a good job of showing some of the common issues, like your fire hollowing out, clinkers, etc. I think everyone can start and set up a coal fire, it's maintaining it's health over a few hours that takes some experience. I don't want you to think fire management is hard, cause it's not, but it does require knowing what to look for and it does take time to develop that instinctive feel that your fire is out of shape. It's hard to explain in video because for example in a deep fire I only know I have clinker because the fire isn't as hot as I think it should be, you aren't always able to see them without pulling your fire open or feeling around with your poker.* This stuff specifically is why I'm curious about the triple sized feed system, depending on how they merge you have a large volume to keep maintained with coke without burning out your center. You can make a pretty big fire on one output so I am assuming three could be pretty massive(I could be wrong!). You'll just have to be on point keeping the center area between them fed. Your friend is probably giving trustable advice if he's forging like every other weekend and been going to classes. I'd be only be a bit more leery if it's like once every other month, even over two years that's only like 20 to 40 hrs experience. At the classes I see a lot of guys who have been forging a "few years" who are pretty terrible because they don't have the hours, I trust time on target more than just tracking how long since you started. As long as he's putting in the time he's likely a fine resource. *Free tip that somehow none of those videos mentioned: they're called clinkers for a reason. You can jab around with the tip of your poker, coal and coke have a full rock feel but when you hit a clinker it'll feel and sound like you're tapping (clink clink clink) on a piece of metal. Important if you have coal that forms big massy clinkers, we'd pretty frequently get double fist sized ones, especially after forge welding or running hot for a while. threelemmings fucked around with this message at 15:29 on Jul 13, 2020 |
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Jul 13, 2020 15:12
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 so sleekWhat were these for again? I remember you showing these in progress pics a long time ago, they look almost like jewelery.
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Jul 13, 2020 15:45
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Yeah after a quick read that's all quality stuff, and his transition into discussing forge welding is much more appropriate than you'd think because tuning up your fire is probably the most important step to preparing the wels. I also like the distinction about realizing how to run a fire for a full workday requiring more continuous maintenance as your original fire burns itself out and has to be continuously maintained and replaced. Good post you are right there are not a lot of resources that aren't a cranky old guy yelling over your shoulder about how your fire sucks. I get the impression from teaching though is most people who have a home setup have gas anyways and all they want to make is knives, so to be fair it literally does not matter for those folks. threelemmings fucked around with this message at 14:44 on Jul 14, 2020 |
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Jul 14, 2020 14:37
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Yeah you're an expert in demand and enough personal skill and reputation that people are beating down the door to give you a job. Don't undercut yourself, both in confidence and what you are worth (per hour). threelemmings fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Jul 15, 2020 |
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Jul 15, 2020 13:24
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Oh yeah you may have already screwed the pooch there, depending on the material. I am going to come in on the slightly positive side and encourage you to experiment, I've hand forged a few dinner bell type bells as an experimental prototype for a customer and me and a coworker messed around with acoustics trying to see if we could refine different bell shapes or ringing sheet of plate steel after I made metal dustpan for the shop and we realized it had decent acoustics; if you bopped it on an anvil it would ring like a tuning fork for 10 seconds or so. If I can do it accidentally I'm sure with trial and error you can purposefully make something that sounds decent. I will wholeheartedly agree with Ambrose that you're very unlikely to get a nice clear bell or that resonating gong sound going sans specialized metal and technique. But you could play around with some flat sheet and attachment methods and I think you'd be pretty likely come up with something that will ring or hum for an acceptable time, but you're going to have to look for alternative shapes that don't require precision casting or working. You're probably going to have a tug of war between something that looks nice and something that sounds cool and decide which is more important. threelemmings fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Jul 22, 2020 |
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Jul 22, 2020 21:27
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Anything that really requires work hardening is both noisy and a huge repetitive pain in the rear end. But yeah I'm imagining a bunch of workmen just wailing away in the world's worst percussion band
threelemmings fucked around with this message at 21:37 on Jul 22, 2020 |
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Jul 22, 2020 21:33
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Our shop was all side blast but also much simpler and likely safer design. You just weld a shallow box for the body of the forge, and the tuyere is pipe set 1/3 up that you just ran beads of weld around and around at the end to insulate. You do your first few burns low and slow, and once some ash has built up you have a good insulator for the bottom and can kick it up. A bit basic but my boss had been running that style for 40 years so it must have something going for it. Also if the pipe weakens it's a cheap and easy fix to replace it as opposed to casting a new firepot. I don't really see the point of doing it in a barbecue, and the coolant jacket strikes me as overly complicated. Some of this is due to me being used to the style, but it I think it has some advantages over the fire pot setup since you have much more control over the size and shape of your fire, and you don't have ash and clinker falling into where your air is coming out. And I think many traditional bellows run stone forges were set up the same way, feeding a flat bed from the side and using ash and the positioning of your coal to shape the fire. Edit: https://www.calsmith.org/Resources/Documents/technical_documents/techdocs_sideblastforge.pdf This is more or less the setup, with some differences in air pipe construction. threelemmings fucked around with this message at 18:36 on Jul 26, 2020 |
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Jul 26, 2020 18:21
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His Divine Shadow posted:The reason for barbecue is to quickly and cheaply get your hands on a simple suitable bowl easily and it will be sorta portable and not too heavy, as opposed to buying or scrounging sheet metal and welding and fabricating one. I have designed a version using sheet metal and angle iron and also after some feedback from a smithing forum tried mocking up a design with a steel firepot, water jacketed side inlet and top as opposed to sand or clay for weight reduction. The portability aspect is a big one I wasn't focusing on at all, I do see the value there and it changes the analysis; I was thinking mostly in terms of effort put into making something vs results. For the water jacket my issue was introducing the piping but again it helps for portability. I absolutely see the need to separate the two of you're regularly moving it around, as anything holding ten+ gallons of water is going to end up being the heaviest part of the forge E: also in my defense, after watching it again he skips over the most complicated piece in the whole setup, the cooling jacketed tuyere. I only have a few frames to see it clearly but that is not diy-amateur welding for someone making their first forge and it's really dumb that's the one piece he doesn't explain, the rest of it all looks easy because he ignores the one step that requires work and knowledge Double edit: I know you said it was "just" welding but seating pipe into a thin skinned cylinder and then capping it all off watertight is a nontrivial welding task. Definitely not impossible but also not something I'd bill as a diy ez first forge as he does. E: I figured it out: it's because he's selling the cooling assembly on Etsy 
threelemmings fucked around with this message at 15:05 on Jul 29, 2020 |
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Jul 29, 2020 14:42
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I'm just hyperaware to it due to teaching a lot lately and am very cautious of most beginners limits and abilities due to what I see when i teach. A lot of people can monkey-see monkey-do, but the instant you ask them to apply what they've learned to something similar it falls apart a bit and you end up re-teaching something they already know. I learned by having an old guy just set me on hooks 8 hours a day for weeks. They were all terrible but it was about getting the reps and muscle memory in. But while it was useful it's hard to expect folks to spend 80 hours just doing one thing these days (unless it's knives). Anyways roundabout apology, I wasn't trying to put down your abilities or the usefulness of the project, I just immediately went to what I saw as flaws for the new folks he was aiming at... which honestly doesn't even apply to most of this thread in retrospect, we've got some skilled folks in here. threelemmings fucked around with this message at 15:55 on Jul 29, 2020 |
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Jul 29, 2020 15:53
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I think in general if you're going to mess with it the ideal process is you lay down weld and grind it even, yeah. In general grinding it down deep is not a good idea as you will eventually get to softer metal on the inside that won't hold up (assuming you have the common hardened steel face atop a wrought body. I'm no anvil connoisseur about brands). On the flip side the heat surface -> weld beads -> grind -> weld again is not a fun process, so if it's only a very small dip grinding away a little bit of material is definitely easier and isn't likely to really hurt things too much. Looking at the pictures again, I'd work with it a few weeks and see how you feel about it. The worst variations appear to be lengthwise, and given most work happens across the width you may find it's not too disruptive if those are less deformed. Just depends on where the worst and best parts of the face are, and your level of tolerance. Some of it is noticeable even in your zoomed out picture but it obviously varies along the face. Plus since you don't often directly strike them filling out your radiuses with weld to fix those edges is much simpler and less exacting if that's the only tune up you end up doing. I'd love to hear from the guy here who did a full fix and/or heat treat, I've dressed up some but never done a full rebuild of a face. Everyone I've talked to just confirms it's a pain in the rear end, but it would be cool to hear the tricks first hand. threelemmings fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Jul 30, 2020 |
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Jul 30, 2020 17:16
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Also apropos of nothing: does anyone know about and old black and white video showing a dude just hammering out chain links? He's on a stone forge and has his anvil set up with chain link jigs. Something makes me think it was German but I could be wrong. I've been googling and searching YouTube and even reddit but can't find it, I thought I had added it to my saved videos but got nothing. The impressive part was his fast and simple welding and also his efficiency shaping the chain, he was using backblows which I have never in my life seen anyone do. I swear he'd hammer down to start a link bending and hit it with the back of the hammer on the recovery of the same swing to finish the top arch of the link. It was some of the most effortless work I've ever seen, it's clear he'd been doing that job for decades. threelemmings fucked around with this message at 18:23 on Jul 30, 2020 |
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Jul 30, 2020 18:20
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You gonna drill the vise into the floor or set it up a stand or tie it to a table? I've considered doing permanent fixturing into concrete at home but haven't committed yet, and everywhere I've worked there's usually a heavy plate metal table that's massy enough the vise isn't going anywhere even if you really crank on it.
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Aug 7, 2020 16:31
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Way back in the day you could run a bar through it as a way to pick the thing up and carry it around to lay in a fire and then quench, they are usually below or right on the center of gravity so the anvil carries upside down. Not sure if there's any point to it with modern day manufacturing threelemmings fucked around with this message at 13:48 on Aug 17, 2020 |
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Aug 17, 2020 13:24
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Only thing I'd add to the video is that it is possible to weld without flux, which is something you should try since it will really really get your eye in for picking out the time to jump in and tack it up. But using flux definitely makes it much much easier, and I would always use it when welding two different materials, I would only go fluxless on a production piece if I was welding self to self. Also something that guy didn't mention is paradoxically then thinner the piece the harder it is to weld since everything heats so fast and the like between welding and burning is much smaller. That little piece he was working on was also mixing mild and high carbon steel if I read the translation right, which adds its own problems. Impressive weld overall. If you're learning to forge weld I suggest making rings out of like ten inches of half by quarter. Make them flat at first, then try a couple that are oriented like a wedding ring. There's obviously a lot of forge welded things you can do, everyone loves knives and Damascus obviously, but with rings you're forging self to self, you don't gotta manage two separate pieces , and most importantly when you put the circle on a mandrel or the bick you'll know pretty soon if your weld is good or not. Doing that for 20 hours or so will get you set for forge welding anything else. Also as to anvil height it was already stated: Rapulum_Dei posted:I mean do whatever you want I’m not arguing, if that’s knuckle height you’re clearly a magnificent specimen of a man and not to be hosed with. You are an inch or two above knuckles, which will probably make it a touch harder to hold stuff between your legs to chisel or cut. It's a nerves-inducing but useful technique from time to time. I've personally never liked doing that so I don't know if you're missing out on much, bit it has been extremely helpful from time to time. Edit: I think comfortable hammering rates much higher than one occasionally used niche technique, so I'd focus on that, to be clear. You're not losing out on much if you end up wanting it higher. threelemmings fucked around with this message at 15:10 on Aug 18, 2020 |
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Aug 18, 2020 15:04
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In the end it's all just rocks from out of the ground. Those look like some high quality pre-cooked rocks though. threelemmings fucked around with this message at 12:40 on Aug 22, 2020 |
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Aug 22, 2020 12:36
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armorer posted:Congrats! Now for maximum effect, weigh it and write the actual new weight on it in whiteout. Hah I'm just gonna go still a bunch of holes in mine so I can claim a new PR, great project idea.
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Sep 2, 2020 04:27
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Lots of job openings for you in a year or so though!  Luckily the place I've been going into has been on the opposite side of things, being very alert and making lots of adjustments. But the guy running it is much more liberal and the place is structured as a non profit so less of the fygm mentality I guess. But you're right in that unfortunately a lot of trade work is broken down along class lines, which around here are basically identical to political leaning.
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Sep 3, 2020 17:31
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The wire feed and nozzles, mostly. The guts of a mig is complicated enough that it's uncommon to work on those parts yourself, also as it's mostly circuitry and electronics stuff if something's broke you're usually replacing that specific part. And usually with the insides it's very binary that either it runs or it don't. The most common mechanical fault though is a wire jam, so making sure the wheel runs smoothly and knowing how all the pieces that hold the wire and feed it work, so that way you know what to fix if it kinks. At the top you will occasionally be taking apart the nozzle assembly, as the cup will crust up and need to be cleaned (just nibble at the build up with needle nose pliers), and the tip itself gets replaced every once in a while, it's more or less a consumable, just one with a longer work life. We ran the poo poo out of ours and they were all older units, though not that old. If it wasn't used much you should get good life out of it as long as the insides work. threelemmings fucked around with this message at 13:44 on Sep 29, 2020 |
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Sep 29, 2020 13:37
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For straight learning: As mentioned above, weld a lot of lines. You're aiming for consistency of the bead and control of your puddle. Mess with different settings of heat and wire speed. There are charts and stuff but it's also very handy to be able to recognize common faults: too fast, too slow, too much/too little wire, running too much or too little current, etc. Practice with different materials. Tubing will take different setups then inch square bar or flatbar. Practice out how to weld different thicknesses. First time I did a weather vane I blew through the decorative part and the fletching when attaching them to the shaft of the arrow, since it was half square and they were sheet metal and I Weld a few basic joints and then cut (and etch if you have the ability). It's possible to make a weld that looks fine but doesn't actually have good structure. Take pictures and show us unground welds if you want analysis. I'm a fine enough welder for railings and such but I'm no pro and don't have a good eye to just look and tell you a weld is bad and why, but I'm sure we have some folks here who can do that. It was helpful when learning to have someone go over my shoulder and point out how I had set the weld up wrong and let me get better at self analyzing the process. For projects: I think a great introduction is a small bedside table or anything similar. Two feet tall, top is a foot square, do one stretcher somewhere to keep the legs together. Use a stick of half inch square or really anything similar, it's pretty cheap materials wise especially compared to tubing. Finish the top with wood or a tile or just some plate/sheet metal.  Real basic, no skill table (just pretend the forging is straight bar). Teaches you to account for material thickness, checking that something's square, tacking or compensating for a weld pulling angles in or out, and finally it's useful. Best of all, unless your welds just fall apart you can royally screw this up and still have a mostly functional piece at the end of this, it'll just be a bit wobbly or skewed. There's plenty of small household stuff like that you can do and it's more fun than burning lines (once you've run a lot of lines. Can't skip the practice). Fella I'm working with recently said it well: welding correctly is a skill, but learning how to lay a piece out and plan and assemble it is an equally important and totally distinct skill. E: lol at the two replies while I was writing this, everyone on the same page apparently. Normally you ask two smiths best way to do something you get three different answers threelemmings fucked around with this message at 23:57 on Nov 2, 2020 |
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Nov 2, 2020 04:58
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