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 So I finally upgraded to a Nova G3 from a tiny weak lathe chuck that barely held anything longer than 5" I'm so excited to actually be able to turn bowls. I don't really know why I thought that original one would be any good.
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Apr 8, 2016 02:49
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Bad Munki posted:For the record, that was with 6013 1/8" stick, on a chunk of 1/4" thick welding steel. I think I hard the welder set to 105? I'm not looking at it right now but I think it steps from 105 to 120, I had it at one of those two. For most stick welding you're dragging the molten puddle along in front of the slag. For a good bead in flat position you pretty much want the slag following along immediately behind the molten puddle. If you see the slag start to move forward and wrap around the edges of the puddle to the front you're moving too slow.
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Apr 13, 2017 02:02
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Yooper posted:I don't get it. Pretty sure their plan was to sell the juicer itself at a loss and make up for that and then some in the sales of fruit/veg bags to juice. I feel like I remember reading that in order to buy the juicer you have to agree to buy 5 bags a week for a few months/weeks. Edit: looking at their website a 5-pack of bags is $30
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Jul 3, 2017 03:24
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DreadLlama posted:On the subject of ferrous alloys: Is there a happy medium between "dirt cheap" and "can be case hardened" that I could ask a metal supplier for? I'm leaning more towards cheap, but I don't want to be "that guy" who walks into a shop and asks for "mild steel" like it's an official designation. I'm pretty sure A36 is what you're thinking of. Its the most common structural steel.
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Aug 6, 2017 08:05
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The only CC/CV welding machines that I've heard good things about are the ESAB ones.
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Aug 30, 2017 04:02
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This might be a bit of a long shot but this is the best thread to ask this in. I remember seeing a youtube video showing the forging process of various Apollo rocket parts especially the nose cone out of exotic metals like niobium. It was some vintage film that was mostly highlighting the giant forging presses involved. I got into a conversation with my metallurgy teacher about it after he mentioned the rocket nozzle materials at this firm he works at called Aerojet.
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Nov 7, 2017 06:33
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MrPete posted:That reminded me of this awesome video; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CHKbAq_RtIY This is actually the exact video I was looking for! Thank you!
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Nov 8, 2017 01:50
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The only difficulty is making sure you don't get the steel hotter than probably 500 degrees so you don't ruin the hardening/temper
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Nov 21, 2017 07:51
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:When does HSS start to lose hardness? The internet says varying things that I'm not sure I entirely understand, but I'm under the impression that normal steel oxidation/tempering colors don't apply to HSS? For instance if I ground a high carbon steel tool and the edge turned purple, I've ruined the temper in that area, but if I grind HSS and it turns purple it's still fine, right? Your standard M2 HSS is tempered at around 1050F compared to 350F for a high carbon steel of similar hardness. The colors still correspond to the same temp ranges so I'd say you should start to worry about softening when your HSS turns a dull gray or black.
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Nov 19, 2019 06:08
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rump buttman posted:Thanks for the info. I dropped an aluminum block I have hours into and hosed up two corners. It's going to cost me a half day to drop it off at the welders. Stuff like this comes up a few times a year. There's a miller syncrowave at the shop collecting dust I'm thinking about learning. I'm trying to figure if I have the bandwidth to dedicate into getting good enough for simple stuff like fixing small dings in aluminum (6061, 7075) and steel (s7, p20, 4140, h13). Well carbon steels require the least practice as far as building decent technique if you're just aiming to be able to do buildup work. Afaik all those steels are weldable if you follow proper pre and post heat procedures and have the corresponding filler metal if you need to maintain the metallurgical properties. Aluminum is another ballgame. For example, 7075 is not a weldable alloy as its notorious for cracking in the heat affected zone created by a weld bead. Welding aluminum can get complicated due to aluminum's much higher heat conductivity so you may require a preheat depending on the size of the damaged part. Then you also bring in the variables of AC current frequency, wave form, and balance and things start to become quite complicated. I'm not trying to dissuade you, just trying to give you a sense of what's involved. Both are very doable but there is much more to be learned for welding aluminum versus carbon steel.
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Mar 7, 2020 04:57
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His Divine Shadow posted:My solution, use a file to scrape the rod on before restarting.
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Apr 15, 2020 11:58
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Vim Fuego posted:Cool (haha), thanks for the links. I'll pick up a speed square and see what kinda clamps are recommended. The Miller welding phone app gives decent settings based on welding process, material thickness, and then wire type which can be a good starting point but that's usually based on pure Voltage and Wire feed speed settings. Cheaper 110V machines tend to have generic 1-10 settings or letter based settings so if that's your case go with whatever your machine suggests based on material thickness if it has a corresponding guide typically inside the door cover where the wire spool goes. Those do err on the side of hotter welds to guarantee metal fusion so be careful especially if your material is thin. Also its never a bad idea to test your settings on scrap material. If you want general MIG welding tips I've always liked the videos from Weld.com on Youtube and I'd suggest you start here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlmOb1tIJ4Y
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Apr 19, 2020 12:06
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Vindolanda posted:I’m idly thinking of putting together another folding knife, but this time one with a custom blade and spring. Is there such a thing as a service where I could upload a digital drawing/model and have hardened and tempered steel laser or water cut and sent to me? I’m thinking in the 2mm thick range, but being in a small mostly carpeted London flat rather limits my angle grinding and hardening capabilities. I can handle the fine shaping with diamond stones, but the overall outline is a challenge. I havent heard of any companies that offer something with that much ease of service but you may be able to find some machine shops that would be willing to do small job work if you call around. Minimum part quantity for a given job could be an obstacle though.
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Jul 14, 2020 11:25
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Have any of you done plaster casting of aluminum? I don't have access to a kiln to more properly drive all the water out of the plaster cast so does anyone have any suggestions on going about it with an oxy acetylene torch? The primary issue along with that is that I will possibly only have one plaster mold so this needs to work. I want to make an aluminum cast of a paw print of my girlfriends sick and dying 17 year old cat so she has a sentimental keepsake separate from an urn of ashes. If the high temp of molten aluminum is a limiting factor, I could also buy some bismuth tin to cast with instead. I just already have good aluminum scrap for casting.
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Oct 21, 2020 13:27
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Thank you guys so much. All this information is really helpful and i'll definitely be going the silicone route. My issue with driving moisture out of the plaster is that i only have access to a strong torch to melt aluminum at work and theres no oven. I suppose i could more gradually heat it up by placing it on a block of aluminum or brass and aiming the torch at the metal block. Would an initial heat on the plaster in an oven at home make a worthwhile difference to drive some of the moisture out before a later heat with the torch during casting?
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Oct 22, 2020 03:28
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I just did a little googling and apparently there is a smooth on product called Mold Max 60 designed for metal casting under 560F That entirely removes the issue of any moisture flash boiling in a plaster mold and exploding. Mold Max 60 is definitely the way to go if I use pewter.
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Oct 22, 2020 10:27
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:More questions for trying to up my welding game: The basic rule of thumb I learned for amps selection is you want to start at the decimal equivalent of the rod diameter. So 1/8" rod would be .125" or 125 amps. Start there and adjust to personal preference and base metal thickness. Only rods this doesnt work as well for is the cellulositic rods like 6010 and 6011. If i remember right i used to run those starting around 100 amps at 1/8" rod size. Its been years since I ran 6010.
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May 31, 2021 22:37
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AmbassadorofSodomy posted:Yeah, I think I remember reading that somewhere. 1A for every thou of diameter. 7018 is my all around favorite stick electrode. They're all good rods but some have more specialized uses. For general purposes 6013 is a fine rod though I've never heard of it being used for structural purposes. Its got decent penetration and is pretty easy to use. 6011/6010 are most commonly used during the root pass of an open root weld because of its strong arc force. That arc force can also help you burn through paint, heavy mill scale, or rust. 6010/6011 are only different in that 6010 is for DC current and 6011 is for AC current. As for 7018, its the standard structural rod due to the low hydrogen properties and added iron powder in the flux giving increased weld deposition rates. 7018 is great once you get used to starting the arc. It has a tendency to stick when you try to strike it. I used to have a couple AWS structural certifications with it. Also as already mentioned, don't try to dry out 7018 with a torch. I imagine the direct heat could mess with the flux. I've seen guides online to using a home oven to drive the moisture out.
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Jun 1, 2021 07:21
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Uncle Enzo posted:Are the nicer Harbor Freight welders (Titanium, Vulcan) any good? I'm considering buying a multiprocess machine and the price difference between a Titanium and a Miller is eyewatering ($800 vs $1800). Especially considering the HF version comes with the TIG accessories, making the Miller $2200 by comparison. I'm a decent hand at stick, want to try TIG, and I think I need MIG although it doesn't hold any actual attraction for me. There's some stuff that I want to build that is typically done with MIG so I better get one. My coworker bought the Titanium tig 200 and seemed pretty satisfied with it. He primarily does little metal sculptures of animals and sells them online for side money.
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Jun 19, 2021 23:56
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An important step when welding on hardenable steel is preheating and post heating the material so it cools down slowly preventing the steel adjacent to the weld from becoming too brittle and cracking again from the stress. After welding and cooling you may also want to heat the area to at least a blue temper to raise its impact durability. Googling a bit suggests a pretty high preheat temp for 1060 steel at 300 celsius which complicates things. One potential option I can think of is having the cutting edge of the axe in water while you preheat the rest and weld it. Then periodically hit it with a torch so it cools slowly over the course of a few minutes. This would allow the cutting edge to stay hard while preventing the heat affected zone from becoming to hard and cracking before youre able to do the tempering.
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Jun 24, 2021 12:15
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coldpudding posted:Lol I'd have to beef it up and switch to stainless steel or at least a heavy powder coating if I was gonna start doing that, can't have angry folks returning rusty broken chairs. Hot dip galvanize for the texture.
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Jul 25, 2021 09:17
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meowmeowmeowmeow posted:I'm putting a fair number of weld nuts into one side of rectangular tubing and it's causing it to bow pretty good, I'm letting each area cool before doing the next. Any ways to reduce bowing? All I can think of is clamping it to my welding table, but seems like the bow would just spring in after it's released? There are a few options to try to mitigate bowing. Clamping the part flat helps. Reducing fitup gaps if your material thickness is low enough can also help because there is less space for weld metal to fill then subsequently shrink together. The best but also most difficult option is to compensate the warping by clamping it or moving it the opposite direction. For example, when you weld a T joint, you might, instead of tacking it at 90 degrees, leave it more obtuse becuase you expect the weld to pull it a few degrees tighter. For your situation i'd try putting some shims under the tube in the middle and then clamp the ends down to create a counter-bow in the tubing. Weld while clamped, let cool, release praying you estimated right.
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Dec 28, 2021 09:17
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meowmeowmeowmeow posted:
I think in general aluminum needs ~20% higher amps just due to its heat conductivity but I'd be more cautious with that thin of stock. If you have any spare material i'd say do some test beads.
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Jan 28, 2022 02:51
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I have a pdf of the Machinery's handbook 26th edition if someone can point me to a good place to host it. That might constitute  though
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Feb 9, 2022 01:40
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If I remember right from the lecture portions of the welding classes I took in community college, Fluxcore is divided into two main sub types: FCAW-S (self shielded) and FCAW-G (gas shielded). FCAW-G is designed to use a slag system in conjunction with a shielding gas. All the different FCAW-G wires I have run professionally used pure CO2 as a shielding gas which is significant. Argon and Helium are inert gasses but CO2 is not. CO2 is known as an active gas. Its understood that while it provides weld protection, it also increases heat input which does correspond to better weld penetration. Both of the pre-fab structural welding shops I've worked in used dual-shield because it can run in all positions except overhead, its generally easy to run, its cheap, it makes a great weld even through heavy mill scale, and the slag system helps general weld appearance and profile.
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Feb 12, 2022 13:06
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ryanrs posted:Hello, metalworking goons. Solid filler metals of the same classification, if theyre from reliable manufacturers, should all run very similarly. You would probably have to burn through a 55lb spool every few days of a Lincoln ER70s-6 and then do the same with ESAB ER70s-6 to notice much of a difference. Cored wires get more complicated. Due to their tubular construction, the current density in the arc is higher which generally allows you to weld on dirtier metal more reliably. The problem is that they can vary more between manufacturers due to there being more options chemically when it comes to flux composition. The various ions created from the flux while welding effects the behaviour of the arc itself along with heat input. E6010/E6011 are well known for their ability to burn through dirty metal. This is primarily because the fast freeze slag is cellulose based. That composition creates significanly more arc force and heat input which burns through the rust. E71T-11 seems to be a good general use fcaw-s wire for dirty or rusty material. Lincoln's version is NR-211 and ESAB's is called Fabshield 21B. As far as hardfacing goes, I've personally only done wire feed hard facing with a solid wire Stellite product and it was a pain in the rear end to get the settings dialed in. It also had trouble wetting into the base metal which might be improved with a flux system. My impression is that stick electrode hardfacing is easier and less finicky. That might be more info than you need but I like to be detailed.
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Mar 3, 2022 08:06
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ryanrs posted:Welding Tools (besides the welder) A variety of clamps and vise grips can get you pretty far if you have a flat table. What's important apart from that is a reliable way of making parts square or within whatever angle you are trying to meet. Products like the Fabblock and Strong hand tables are just an incredibly easy and repeatable way of doing that so it makes sense for custom fab shops or someone with plenty of money who wants the best. One great thing to keep in mind, you can modify your steel clamps with your welding tools if you need them to function a little differently. Here's a table I recently built with simple squares, clamps and a flat steel table. All the tubing was cut on a carbide cold saw.  For specific products, i'd recommend the Welper brand YS-50 mig pliers, Strong Hand utility clamps, and Wilton c-clamps. Also as a middle ground between the flat table and an expensive engineered fab table, you could invest in some of the Fireball Tool cast iron squares for use in fixturing on your flat table.
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Mar 5, 2022 11:02
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ryanrs posted:I want to do some small MIG welds on 1/4" passivated 18-8 fasteners (cheap stainless bolt). Basically welding a nut to a bolt as an anti-theft measure. Can I just load some 308LSi 0.030" wire and run it with my existing cylinder of 75/25 argon/co2? I'm really hoping the answer is YES, because I do not want to buy a tank of helium or w/e just to make a couple tack welds. For that purpose 75/25 and 308Lsi should be fine. The weld will just end up a dull gray instead of your usual colors from tig. You can weld through a passivation layer no problem. Passivation just speeds up the formation of chromium oxide which is the normal protection in stainless steel. Long term you may get some rust though and itll likely show up at the heat affected zone first if it shows up at all.
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Apr 24, 2022 07:19
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ryanrs posted:
HSLA's like AR200 or Hardox400 are decently weldable and will probably last forever but they will also be expensive.
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May 27, 2022 02:22
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Have any of you tried using music wire as filler metal for tig welding? Im curious about using it as cheap hardfacing material for small hobby tooling.
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Jul 7, 2022 00:31
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From what ive seen online Evaporust is amazing for rust removal.
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Jul 11, 2022 03:12
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SpeedFreek posted:I ran into an issue the other day where the wire welded itself to the contact tip. This has never been an issue for me before but these were different conditions than I typically weld in. Ive worked as a welder for 4 years and had that happen less than 10 times. I imagine its caused by a weird perfect storm of the contact tip being hot enough and the wire burning back quickly.
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Jul 13, 2022 19:22
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sharkytm posted:I see you've never done spool gun AL MIG. Or maybe not done it as badly as I do. But yeah, on steel, I've never had it happen. You called it! All my aluminum experience has been tig. I even went through a full welding program in community college and i never touched a spoolgun. In retrospect that program was very structural steel focused minus the tig class.
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Jul 14, 2022 07:49
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I think welding will be your best bet if you need that sharp inside corner.
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Jul 23, 2022 23:52
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HolHorsejob posted:A friend of mine just had someone cut the catalytic converter off her truck. Is there a good way to defend against an angle grinder? Like, is there a metal that's guaranteed to gum up and shatter the wheel? Non ferrous metals can clog grinding tools but after my cat got stolen last october I found that the general suggestion is to add steel in strategic places so it takes significantly longer to cut out the cat.
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Aug 19, 2022 00:10
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Leperflesh posted:Since you have a welding torch anyway, you can use your mild steel rod for the handle and weld your carbon steel blade onto the end? Without proper pre/post heat that weld would be brittle as hell.
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Sep 28, 2022 08:13
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Leperflesh posted:Welding high carbon edge to low-carbon body is a common practice in knife and axe construction. A quench and temper would be necessary for the hard edge regardless, of course. Heating to critical temp for a quench followed by tempering fixes the differential hardness problem caused by the weld. In general, welding low carbon to high carbon steel effectively hardens the high carbon steel right next to the weld (tho not to its max hardness). If you leave it like that the high carbon steel area next to the weld, the heat affected zone, will be very brittle relative to the metal around it. For a pry bar thats a potentially dangerous problem. For a knife that sees lower stresses or an axe thats mostly under compressive stresses its much less of a issue.
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Sep 28, 2022 21:32
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ryanrs posted:Tell me about this metal: McMaster: Ultra-Strength Carbon Steel The main challenges I remember from welding school is you'll need a filler metal that decently matches the yield strength of your base metal and you need to control both your heat input and the speed of the part cooling as high strength steels in general are prone to cracking. Also I imagine if youre welding on spots that have been bent those areas may be even more likely to crack due to mild work hardening. Given the 4mm material thickness the cracking may not be a big issue though since youre probably only doing single pass welds.
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Oct 18, 2022 08:17
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ryanrs posted:My hobby welding machine can only fit 8-inch, 11# spools, but all the exotic wire only comes in 33# spools. Do people respool wire, or what? Whatever you can get that closest matches the base metals tensile strength will be the best. I would imagine most people outside of production environments that weld on semi-exotic materials are doing TIG which is a lot more flexible for filler metal sales.
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Oct 20, 2022 00:56
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Are you limited to square cuts? You can also create your radius with whats called a 'pie cut' technique. Its really common with car exhausts and complicated tubing layouts Just use some scrap material to get your cut angle right.
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Nov 15, 2022 01:36
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