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hot cocoa on the couch
Dec 8, 2009

CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:

Thats not really true tho.

-------

At 16 years, I'd say coil packs are a likely suspect.


This too

My 04 impreza had a rough start up till I cleaned up the grounds. They were very corroded. I'd also prior done the alternator, battery and coil pack. After cleaning up the grounds the engine started up beautifully

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Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug
Coil packs, split throttle body coupler to the IC, vacuum leaks from other worn out rubber hoses.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Thanks, makes sense. I'm getting a second beater as a backup to my first beater and selling my good car, because it's a CVT Camry and I never drive it because it's so horribly boring. I'm definitely looking at more than a few options, but assuming the whole thing isn't trashed it seems like a good deal. My first "beater" is perfectly reliable mechanically, I'm just really slow at working on it so I need a second car for when it inevitably takes way longer than planned for me to get done working on the first car.

Is there anything mentioned above (coil packs, throttle body, vacuum leaks, injectors) that a standard PPI from a shop wouldn't find? I'm willing to look through everything myself but I'm not a very good mechanic so it would probably be wise for me to drop the $100-200 on having someone that knows what they're doing look it over. I know I wouldn't be able to check an injector quickly in a parking lot.

shy boy from chess club
Jun 11, 2008

It wasnt that bad, after you left I got to help put out the fire!

It's definitely worth having someone look at it because if the roughness is something easy like plugs or a vacuum leak they will probably find it. At that age it could be a million things and if it's an easy fix those cars are fun as hell, even stock. I had an auto one with just an exhaust and some work just making the tune better (not turning it up) and for stock it was a rocket.

It could be something expensive and they should be able to determine that as well. Probably worth the gamble at that price for a possible easy fix and a super fun car imo.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Yeah, it seems like fun as long as I don't roll it over, it's the tallest vehicle I've driven since I had a company E-150 at my first full time job.

Absolute worst case I could probably drop a JDM engine and/or transmission in it for like $2.5k, I feel confident in pulling those and replacing with new units, just not with taking them apart and putting everything back together right. Especially that my workspace right now is a driveway and the short-term upgrade is going to be a dusty-rear end barn/workshop.

Someone is also selling a '95 Impreza with a freshly rebuilt EJ22T out of a '93 Legacy, but that seems more likely to be a basket case, he says the center diff is already slipping, and it's more expensive.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Along the same lines. 2003 Outback 2.5 (very early 2003 - built 5/02, first 100 off of the line). It's started sputtering pretty bad off the line, then lunges forward once it clears its throat.

OBD2 says the TPS is reading fine (reading from nothing to WOT with key on/engine off). Fuel trims look fine when running. Secondary O2 says the cat is actually working once it gets hot too.

I have no idea about any maintenance history before 142k (it now has 148k). I've replaced the primary oxygen sensor with a Denso sensor (supposedly OEM - it was throwing a primary O2 code when I bought it). No pending or stored codes. I have no reason to think there's any issues with grounds, as everything works fine - the only issue I've had is the lights strobe slightly at idle (has a supposedly reman Subaru alternator immediately before I bought it; has a Subaru/Mitsubishi reman sticker on it)

Guessing grounds, plugs, or coil? I know the plug wires aren't original, but that doesn't mean the plugs have been done. I've been too lazy/cheap to take the plugs out (a lot of my tools got lost in the move). I have new NGK coppers (same p/n recommended in the owner's manual), just haven't gotten around to it.

e: the rest is nevermind

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:51 on Jun 20, 2020

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Does anyone have the Pedder front strut mounts for their Subaru? Is it possible to press out and replace one of the studs? One of mine just snapped when I was trying to loosen the nut because I couldn't adjust the hub far enough to get it on the strut.

Related, if an axle won't bend up past straight does that indicate a broken CV joint or a broken ball joint, or could it be either? I do have a spare ball joint that I can try installing once I'm no longer in shock that the final work that was supposed to take like an hour is completely hosed. I can't use my old strut mount because the other one is a Pedder and the caster would be completely off. Unless I pull both struts, put the old ones in, and replace the stud in the Pedder down the line, but even then I have the problem of the axle not being able to bend so that the hub is straight up and down.

Kia Soul Enthusias
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom
Toilet Rascal
Dunno about a Peddler one but on the stock SF Forester one I was able to just hammer it out and put a new one in.

Edit: I had to take it out of the car though, wasn't able to get it while still in.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Yeah, might have to do that. I think the studs are about the same, I see the pedder one is exposed on the bottom end. I have a ball joint press as well which I could probably press into service use for this.

Where did you get the replacement stud?

Kia Soul Enthusias
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom
Toilet Rascal

22 Eargesplitten posted:

Yeah, might have to do that. I think the studs are about the same, I see the pedder one is exposed on the bottom end. I have a ball joint press as well which I could probably press into service use for this.

Where did you get the replacement stud?

I don't remember anymore. I may have taken it off one of the SG (2nd Gen) Forester pieces I had, as I was swapping in XT struts, which use a different mount in the rear. Otherwise probably the dealer.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Oh, duh, I still have four old strut mounts, yeah I can just get one out of there. Sorry, not thinking straight, my internal monologue hasn't stopped screaming in frustration for the last 20 minutes or so. I have never done anything like this before.

E: Any idea about why the hub isn't willing to bend into a vertical position? It seems like usually when a ball joint or axle fails it goes loose rather than sticking. Can it do either of the two?

22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Jun 20, 2020

AzureSkys
Apr 27, 2003

A rock or something came in through the grill and smashed the AC condenser pretty good sometime earlier this year. Working from home I didn't notice it until a few weeks ago when the AC wouldn't work. Subaru said it may be covered under a warranty so I went there. It wasn't but they found a leak on the low side line that was covered, which took care of the inspection fee that confirmed the smashed condenser and fixed the leaky line. It would be $1100 to fix the condenser.

A warranty from where I bought it said they'd cover the repair so a week later I went there only to be told no since it was confirmed as damage and not failure. It was then $750 but they later realized they couldn't charge the system since the '17 Legacy used the new refrigerant they weren't equipped to do yet. So I have an appointment for tomorrow back at Subaru to charge it.

I love the car, but this is what I feared when buying something close to new rather than a $4k something I could limp along with my basic repair skills.

Internet Explorer
Jun 1, 2005





Have you reached out to your insurance? Warranties won't cover things done by damage, but insurance should.

AzureSkys
Apr 27, 2003

I didn't think of that, thank you for the suggestion. I already paid for the condenser fix, but I'll try to get in touch with them to check to see if they can help or reimburse.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Well, turns out my ball joint failed, good thing I have another, weird that it cause the joint to bind up rather than just being loose like usual though. Removing that tomorrow if I have time, then going to use a press to push out a stud from one of the rear strut mounts in case I have to put the old front strut mounts in if that fails. Hopefully I can get this poo poo done this week, I've had the car sitting for over a month now because poo poo keeps going wrong at every step of the way.

tacopie
Apr 29, 2009
Hey Subaru thread. I'm back on page 800, working my way through the thread.

I have a 19 STI and the bug has bit me for modifications. I'm trying to make sure that when I modify, I do it for a specific reason and that it will be future proof if possible down the road.

2019 saw some changes that I think have addressed some shortcomings, but have in turn left me scratching my head with trying to research and plan the path.

Different exhaust, different intake, different pistons, a more aggressive tune.

Cobb does a pretty good job of addressing what to expect gain wise on the map note page here.

From looking at the different charts, it looks to me like an intake really doesn't make much of anything aside from noise, it makes less hp than the base map.

On to the downpipe, those gains are looking a bit better, but still aren't giving me a wow factor in the money spent vs performance increase.

From what I've been able to tell is that the fueling is the limiting factor.

So, I guess what I am trying to get at, is it smart to focus on the downpipe, fueling and tune and leave the intake alone until it actually holds the car back?

Should I jump right into flexfuel?

I know that these OTS maps are conservative and I might be skewed in how I am seeing things. I know that a actual tune will net more favorable results which might warrant the intake?

Thanks for reading.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
One issue with Cobb's numbers for downpipes is that they use a stock 2.4" flange at then end to connect to the rest of the stock exhaust. Full 3" turboback makes a significant difference (you might think, oh, it's only like 1/2" but the difference in cross-sectional area is like 40%). I haven't worked in a real shop and stood next to a dyno every day for quite awhile now though so I'm not going to quote any specific numbers.

tacopie
Apr 29, 2009

jamal posted:

One issue with Cobb's numbers for downpipes is that they use a stock 2.4" flange at then end to connect to the rest of the stock exhaust. Full 3" turboback makes a significant difference (you might think, oh, it's only like 1/2" but the difference in cross-sectional area is like 40%). I haven't worked in a real shop and stood next to a dyno every day for quite awhile now though so I'm not going to quote any specific numbers.

I'm going to have to physically verify myself, but the midpipe is supposedly 2.75 instead of 2.5. I'll check when I change the oil, will be making the switch to Motul today or tomorrow.

I've decided that I am just going to get an accessport and an e-tune from brentuning for the time being.

DevCore
Jul 16, 2003

Schooled by Satan


tacopie posted:

I know that these OTS maps are conservative and I might be skewed in how I am seeing things. I know that a actual tune will net more favorable results which might warrant the intake?

If you want the biggest power:dollar ratio get an access port/stage 1 tune, it really unlocks the engine.
After that I'd say downpipes. (not sure if they're improved in a '19 STI from a '07 WRX but that was a point of inefficiency)



Speaking of '07 WRX, I got mine back from the shop and the surging from the faulty air-compressor has been fixed!
But now I'm experiencing a sort of bounce/fluctuation in power. It doesn't happen when I'm going through the gears giving it full beans, but rather when I'm cruising roads at around 3500-4500 rpm and boost is being generated. I'll notice slight dips in power and the acceleration isn't very consistent.

My google sleuthing tells me it might be a leak in the exhaust gasses or potentially a faulty boost control solenoid. Anyone have an idea?

net work error
Feb 26, 2011

tacopie posted:

Hey Subaru thread. I'm back on page 800, working my way through the thread.

I have a 19 STI and the bug has bit me for modifications. I'm trying to make sure that when I modify, I do it for a specific reason and that it will be future proof if possible down the road.

2019 saw some changes that I think have addressed some shortcomings, but have in turn left me scratching my head with trying to research and plan the path.

Different exhaust, different intake, different pistons, a more aggressive tune.

Cobb does a pretty good job of addressing what to expect gain wise on the map note page here.

From looking at the different charts, it looks to me like an intake really doesn't make much of anything aside from noise, it makes less hp than the base map.

On to the downpipe, those gains are looking a bit better, but still aren't giving me a wow factor in the money spent vs performance increase.

From what I've been able to tell is that the fueling is the limiting factor.

So, I guess what I am trying to get at, is it smart to focus on the downpipe, fueling and tune and leave the intake alone until it actually holds the car back?

Should I jump right into flexfuel?

I know that these OTS maps are conservative and I might be skewed in how I am seeing things. I know that a actual tune will net more favorable results which might warrant the intake?

Thanks for reading.

Are you looking to have big horsepower for straightline fast? Do you track your car at all? Figuring out your goals would be helpful in thinking about what direction you take your build and what parts to use etc. Like if you're looking at a mild tune and not crazy hp numbers maybe you don't need new pistons? I'm no expert so just throwing things out there.

tacopie
Apr 29, 2009
Changed the oil tonight and measured the midpipe. It's 2.5, which goes to show that you can't believe everything you read on the internet.

The resonator is a huge loving box. I'm thinking I'll swing by a exhaust shop and have them make me up something if I decide to go that route to make it fart better. I do have the Nameless muffler deletes.

As far as my goals for the car go, what started the thought was there is a bit of hesitation when I mash it. Sometimes it happens, other times not, so that is goal #1, to smooth it out with a tune. I will probably never track the car beyond Auto-x, but I like to be able to get ahead of traffic and thread the needle.

Who knows. Maybe when the Accessport that I ordered today and I flash the map I might be happy.

I really don't want to have to buy parts and then turn around to buy the same parts but different. It just looks to me that this car will not respond to the intake, downpipe and tune that earlier models did, but on the other side of the coin it's better than ever from the factory.

I'm half tempted to address fueling, run flex fuel and put a dom 1.5 on.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



I'm about ready to tap the gently caress out on fixing my Impreza, and just taking it to a shop to replace the ball joint and finish buttoning everything up. I got one of those pincer ball joint separators, doesn't work with this, got one of the big long forks, it's not moving. Probably doesn't help that I undid the control arm at the body so I have less prying leverage, and now I can't get it back on while still on the ball joint, and it won't come off the ball joint. I'm currently taking a skilsaw to the ball joint above and below the control arm, partially as catharsis and partially to try to get the control arm loose so I can try to get a plan of attack on what's left of the ball joint. If I do end up getting the control arm off the ball joint, and have the hub held in place by the strut, the axle, and the tie rod, will that be stable enough to get it on a trailer and towed to a shop? I'll probably attach the control arm to the body again by the two bushings and the tie rod so that's secure too.

This is extremely demoralizing, but I'm feeling like past basic maintenance I need to just take it to a shop next time, I'm just not good enough to actually get poo poo done myself.

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug
Ball joints can be nasty. Ken had one that was so bad he had to progressively Dremel it out inside the arm.

For me it either pops out instantly with leverage or you’re spending the night.

You might be able to summon a mobile mechanic if you can’t transport the car. I haven’t tried it yet but I always forget they exist.

Lord of Garbagemen
Jan 28, 2014

Look on my works, ye Mighty, and despair!

22 Eargesplitten posted:

I'm about ready to tap the gently caress out on fixing my Impreza, and just taking it to a shop to replace the ball joint and finish buttoning everything up. I got one of those pincer ball joint separators, doesn't work with this, got one of the big long forks, it's not moving. Probably doesn't help that I undid the control arm at the body so I have less prying leverage, and now I can't get it back on while still on the ball joint, and it won't come off the ball joint. I'm currently taking a skilsaw to the ball joint above and below the control arm, partially as catharsis and partially to try to get the control arm loose so I can try to get a plan of attack on what's left of the ball joint. If I do end up getting the control arm off the ball joint, and have the hub held in place by the strut, the axle, and the tie rod, will that be stable enough to get it on a trailer and towed to a shop? I'll probably attach the control arm to the body again by the two bushings and the tie rod so that's secure too.

This is extremely demoralizing, but I'm feeling like past basic maintenance I need to just take it to a shop next time, I'm just not good enough to actually get poo poo done myself.

Get the press style separator and never look back, also if you don't need the ball joint to be any kind of reusable get a ball peen hammer and make a little notch for it to sit in on the stud, take your 4 lb hammer and hit the other side of the ball peen. I have only had that not work a handful of times. Otherwise hammer chisel/hammer is cheap , invest in one.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



The c clamp kind or this kind? https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/loaner-ball-joint-separator/oemtools-7-8in-fork-opening-ball-joint-separator/787834_0_0

The second isn't working, the first one I can't figure out how it would work since the ball joint is a blind hole. I've got a friend coming over with a torch today, I'll try heating up the housing and then doing it again. My big concern is even if I get the joint free of the control arm, how do I get it out of the housing with how badly stuck it is?

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
This is the style for pulling the ball joint out of the upright

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tool-78620-Subaru/dp/B01JBJFK3C


I do it in two steps, first make sure the ball joint is coming out of the upright by prying on it with the control arm still in place.

Then for getting it out of the arm, put it back in the upright, bolt it back together, and pry on it again. Hitting the side of the arm where the pin goes through with a hammer a few times will usually knock it loose.

tacopie
Apr 29, 2009
I got my Accessport today. Flashed the applicable Cobb map and it felt pretty good. Drove around for a while, and decided to get the OTS tune from MAP.

That was like going from "I" mode stock to Cobb "S#". Car felt super strong and a bit spicy, and I was getting some beautiful decel pops when rev-match downshifting.

As I said earlier though, my plan was go to go with a brentuning e-tune.

Right now we are on revision 3 and holy moly. There isn't a thing that I do not like about how the car feels now.

Thanks for reading.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
I hired a guy to delete the secondary air injection system from my 06 Saabaru - he left the solenoid so I thought everything would be good. Now I'm getting P0457 codes for a loose gas cap - tried replacing the cap and gasket, but no improvement. I assume it's related to the air injection delete? Any ideas?

bonelessdongs
Jul 17, 2019

blk posted:

I hired a guy to delete the secondary air injection system from my 06 Saabaru - he left the solenoid so I thought everything would be good. Now I'm getting P0457 codes for a loose gas cap - tried replacing the cap and gasket, but no improvement. I assume it's related to the air injection delete? Any ideas?

Can you undo the delete and see if it clears?

In case SA suddenly dies I made a backup thread on SW
http://something-waffle.com/showthread.php?tid=33

BgRdMchne
Oct 31, 2011

.

Somebody fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Jun 25, 2020

Fifty Three
Oct 29, 2007

Incredible contribution.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Right? That picture is older than some of the people in here. (or there......)

Gigi Galli
Sep 19, 2003

and then the car turned in to fire
Hey it’s the ringlands on my old wrx

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

I thought it was the head gaskets in Brokeback.

Gotta love dat EJ251!

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



STR posted:

I thought it was the head gaskets in Brokeback.

Gotta love dat EJ251!

Clearly the rear differential.

Lord of Garbagemen
Jan 28, 2014

Look on my works, ye Mighty, and despair!

STR posted:

I thought it was the head gaskets in Brokeback.

Gotta love dat EJ251!

Do you have the new style? I replaced mine and had the head decked at 60k, now at 200k with nary an issue. source fellow 251 owner.

Elmnt80
Dec 30, 2012


As much as I enjoy seeing an old friend, goatman is gone.

rickiep00h
Aug 16, 2010

BATDANCE


Well. The 1993 Legacy Wagon (non-turbo) project has turned out as follows:

$750 purchase price
$40 Amazon open-box purge canister solenoid
$10 knock sensor
$160 alternator and belt
$100 battery
$550 cheapest tires in town plus alignment
$35 for some random poo poo at the pick-your-part
$225 brake parts
$30 oil change

2000 miles later (southern ID to southern MN a bit roundabout) and I'm a convert. Piece of cake to work on and a dream to drive. For a combination project/occasional grocery-getter/recreational flannel vehicle, I feel like I got my money, and I'll likely bump up to a newer Subie when this one does, in fact, bite it.

Gotta put a new stereo in it (stock CD player and cassette deck are both dead), give it a proper detail, and one day before winter replace the windshield. But yeah. Hi everyone.

rickiep00h fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Jun 27, 2020

Fingat
May 17, 2004

Shhh. My Common Sense is Tingling


I mostly lurk in here, but today with a a bit of a heavy heart I traded in my 17 wrx. I'm downsizing my expenses, and she was an expensive garage queen that barely gets used which made keeping it a bit hard in my logical mind. But the good thing was with such low miles and near perfect condition the equity was a great bonus. Ill be keeping an eye out on what Subrau does in the future so I might be back in a couple years who knows. In the mean time Ill get funny looks waving at wrx's for a bit.

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RillAkBea
Oct 11, 2008

I sold my bug-eye WRX about a year ago and I miss it pretty badly. For some reason I bought an E46 BMW but it's so comfortable and boring, it doesn't even sound like anything in a filing cabinet. More like a grizzly bear in a pillow case.

I can't reasonably put any money down until next year but I'm already searching for 3rd gen hatchback. I used to hate them but I think they've aged surprisingly well.

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