|
Splinter posted:I assume you mean w/ the oil cap off? There is a bit of suction when putting my hand over w/ the cap off, but before putting the hand over it almost feels like air is blowing out of the filler. It's hard to tell. Does that sound right? Yeah, with the oil cap off. On that car, the crankcase ventilation is plumbed to the intake manifold after the throttle body with a one-way valve. When the engine is in vacuum, the valve is open, and the engine pulls a slight vacuum on the crank case. When the engine is in boost, the valve closes, and the crank case vacuum is instead provided by a line that goes to the turbo inlet (vacuum is caused by pressure drop from the air filter and shape of the turbo inlet). Feeling the oil filler, you should feel air movement (pulsating) from the cylinder movement, but if you form a mild seal (putting your palm over the oil filler), it should be a vacuum. If you feel the vacuum it just means the valve is working. This is the only good video or explanation I’ve found for how this PCV system actually works: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mO9mxDUDUDc
|
# ? Aug 10, 2020 19:31 |
|
|
# ? Apr 26, 2024 18:10 |
|
What appears to be the next WRX / Levorg's interior.... https://www.drive.com.au/news/2021-subaru-wrx-and-levorg-interior-leaked-124041.html?trackLink=SMH0 Ummmm...... is there a bucket I can vomit into handy?
|
# ? Aug 11, 2020 12:23 |
|
Oof. I mean I hope that’s not real but oof.
|
# ? Aug 11, 2020 12:25 |
|
I had been doing a ton of work on my Subaru, but time came to move so when I had all the parts installed but was getting a clicking noise on turning and a whirring from the rear I took it to the shop. Now he's saying the struts are on the wrong side, the Pedders mounts are bad and need replacing, and that there's loose stuff at the back causing the whirring. The part with stuff loose at the rear is entirely possible, but the other stuff sounds like bullshit. Is it even possible to put the struts on the wrong sides in a way that it would cause a clicking on turning? They're quoting $1500 to do an oil change (my pan is hosed thanks to Jiffy Lube so I have shops do it), and fix everything. I'm going over tomorrow morning to look at it up on the rack with them but that sounds like bullshit to me. I can't afford that by any stretch of the imagination so if stuff is hosed that badly I'm going to have to get it towed out to my dad's and try to fix it myself. Thankfully I have AAA so I can get a free tow. He also said a control arm needs replacing and I'm pretty loving sure I would have noticed that when I was doing the struts and control arm bushings and everything.
|
# ? Aug 12, 2020 00:13 |
|
CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:What appears to be the next WRX / Levorg's interior.... ....sigh, what the gently caress is it with Subaru and making their interiors full of fiddly bits and bobs?
|
# ? Aug 12, 2020 09:15 |
|
SwissArmyDruid posted:....sigh, what the gently caress is it with Subaru and making their interiors full of fiddly bits and bobs? I think it looks ok. Pretty much standard faire for most modern cars so not bad.
|
# ? Aug 12, 2020 14:28 |
|
um excuse me posted:Make sure the warranty avenue is a hard no first. It sounds like you know what your doing though. Get an extra set of hands to help and you can have the engine out in 4 hours. You're going to have to crack the block open to see if it's worth rebuilding, but in my experience it is faster and possibly even cheaper to just find a replacement engine. A lot of places may even take your core at a discount to the used engine you receive. thanks for this, ive been looking at part on rockauto. it's looking like we're going home rebuild route, I never read the fine print on the warranty and it looks like it's complete bullshit . Basically if the engine fails for any reason due to fluids the warranty won't cover it. I mean it's okay I guess, I was going to rebuild my rally cars EJ to get some experience with engine building and refresh an old, tired engine, probably add some power at the same time, but that was gonna be in like 6 months. The timing kinda sucks on this one. I've also been looking at parted cars engines, and quick sanity check: EJ253s from older gens will fit newer gens with no harness adaptation, right?
|
# ? Aug 12, 2020 15:53 |
|
I bought a thing and now I am become Subaru owner 2017 BRZ Sport-tech. 36,000 km.
|
# ? Aug 13, 2020 02:23 |
|
one of us
|
# ? Aug 13, 2020 02:59 |
|
Sexy
|
# ? Aug 13, 2020 03:06 |
|
Tasteful. I like it
|
# ? Aug 13, 2020 03:10 |
|
Just be glad you found the Jesus Nut. I did an alternator swap on roommate's WReX without reading much of anything, and heard a *clink* (followed by a loud "gently caress" from me). Had to fish that fucker out. Thankfully roommate has much smaller hands with longer fingers, so once I spotted it he was able to get it out. Totally unrelated, I now own a few pairs of super long needle nose pliers. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:40 on Aug 13, 2020 |
# ? Aug 13, 2020 03:36 |
|
Also good would be the magnet on a stick :P
|
# ? Aug 13, 2020 04:02 |
|
IF I HAD ONE AT THE TIME, yes, yes it would.
|
# ? Aug 13, 2020 04:12 |
|
STR posted:Just be glad you found the Jesus Nut. You're talking about that weirdly shaped nut/flange that goes on the back of the super long bolt that's used as the alternators pivot point, yeah? I got crazy lucky and it fell down right between the alt and the block so the weight of the unsupported alt was just holding it there. definitely counted my blessings when I found it.
|
# ? Aug 14, 2020 12:25 |
|
That's the one. On his car it fell and got lodged between the intake manifold and alternator bracket, if I remember right. I have sausage fingers, he has guitarist/pianist fingers - between his much skinnier fingers and a piece of wire he was able to get it out with me holding a flashlight.
|
# ? Aug 14, 2020 12:56 |
|
STR posted:That's the one. On his car it fell and got lodged between the intake manifold and alternator bracket, if I remember right. I have sausage fingers, he has guitarist/pianist fingers - between his much skinnier fingers and a piece of wire he was able to get it out with me holding a flashlight. Yikes. Speaking of fingers, do the plastic covers that go over the belts/pulleys serve any other purpose than as a finger guard? I had surgery on my hand on Tuesday leaving me one-handed before I got a chance to put them back on. If they're just for idiot proofing I'd rather not go through the trouble of attempting to reinstall them until I at least get this stupid splint off. (no I didn't gently caress myself up working on my car, see images here if you care. nsfw for a ton of blood, light gore)
|
# ? Aug 14, 2020 13:37 |
|
Pretty sure it's to prevent degloving your finger. Mine was missing that shield when I got it; friend's WReX had it, but it was broken in half. e: just saw the pics, as soon as I saw the tool I knew what I was gonna see. oof. as someone who uses a box cutter 8 hours a day, always with a brand new blade... we're also supposed to hit a certain # of cases per hour (grocery store stocker), so speed is important. I've nicked myself (and my shorts/pants) a few times when in a hurry, but not that bad. Yet. Hope that heals quickly. Since I change my blade daily the cuts so far have just needed a bandage to stop the bleeding. They heal up pretty quick when it's a clean cut vs something from a dull blade. (fake e2: I only tend to nick myself when slicing the plastic wrap off of stuff that comes on a flat... like coffee cans, soft drinks, canned goods, etc... have a stack of like 15-20 cases high, just ZIP ZIP ZIP ZIP ZIP ZIP down the sides) randomidiot fucked around with this message at 14:03 on Aug 14, 2020 |
# ? Aug 14, 2020 13:50 |
|
STR posted:Pretty sure it's to prevent degloving your finger. Mine was missing that shield when I got it; friend's WReX had it, but it was broken in half. Just do the opposite of me and always only use one hand like an electrician. I was using two because I started to get tired since I have goony little weak noodle arms and my hands were super sweaty. Right handed so that one was holding the blade, slipped out of my left and whoops! Turns out arteries really do squirt blood in little jets like in the movies! Who knew? The ER doc thought I was crazy for taking pics while she was working but if I didn’t at least get some gross pictures to share out of this I would have been really upset. Yes, I am a literal child. Also driving stick with one hand isn’t as hard as you might think. I have a decent amount of practice from smoking cigs while driving. Just have to be quick and have a good alignment! Hugh G. Rectum fucked around with this message at 18:16 on Aug 14, 2020 |
# ? Aug 14, 2020 18:13 |
|
For rear clunks over uneven bumps, should I look at endlinks or swaybar bushings first? Normally I'd think bushings, but the current bushings are those Whiteline ones that come w/ their swaybars, which seem to be much more durable than the OEM style rubber bushings and don't appear to start cracking over time like OEM rubber (despite having 128k miles on my front/rear swaybar & front rear lower control arm bushings). I also have similar mileage on my Koni Yellow shocks, but a) they still seem to be damping the stock springs fine, and b) unevenness being the main cause makes me think swaybar-related rather than shocks.
|
# ? Aug 16, 2020 21:20 |
|
Can you get the rear end in the air? A good wiggle test should reveal the problem your having. If you can't seem to wiggle it, detach a single end link then wiggle the assembly.
|
# ? Aug 16, 2020 21:36 |
|
um excuse me posted:Can you get the rear end in the air? A good wiggle test should reveal the problem your having. If you can't seem to wiggle it, detach a single end link then wiggle the assembly. Yeah definitely. I'm assuming you mean getting thed wheels off the ground to deload the suspension rather than just ramps? Would wiggle imply a specific issue, or is the idea to see what is allowing the wiggle or what makes noise when wiggling?
|
# ? Aug 16, 2020 21:55 |
|
Yea you want to unload the suspension. But as suspensions age they can load the antisway assembly even off the ground due to uneven wear so it may be necessary to unload it by detaching a single linkage. You want to see if you can trace the clanking, but once you get your hands on it, you should be able to confirm the location visually pretty easily. It's possible a control arm bushing is bad. Check those as well. Might as well wiggle the rotating assembly to make sure the bearings or joints aren't going bad. um excuse me fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Aug 16, 2020 |
# ? Aug 16, 2020 22:27 |
|
I had a clunking on the rear of my WRX and it turned out that I missed some washers on the bushing install and my swaybar was flopping around on one side. It was an easy fix.
|
# ? Aug 17, 2020 15:27 |
|
Had a bit of an “oh gently caress” moment earlier, getting off the freeway after driving for about 30 minutes as I put the clutch into make a right into a gas station the CEL turned on and the car started running AWFUL. It stalled after a few seconds, and when I restarted it it still sounded just as bad and I barely had enough power to pull into the station. Had my code reader with me and it was a P1507. So poking around the internet leads me to believe this is an Idle Air Control System Malfunction aka my IACV is hosed. After letting it sit for 15 minutes I restarted and it runs perfectly fine like before. I was relieved but a little confused and very wary. I took it for a short test drive a few hours later and again it was fine. Obviously something is still wrong and the same thing could happen at any time, what are my best bets? I looked up an IACV on RockAuto and they want $271 for the drat thing! Is there a chance it’s just dirty and needs a good cleaning? Possibly a wiring/connector/ground issue? Any advice where to start other than shotgunning parts is appreciated.
|
# ? Aug 19, 2020 07:53 |
|
Yeah, if you've got carbon gunk built up inside your IACV then you can definitely have not enough air coming through and the engine will run like crap and stall at idle because the air-fuel mixture is way off.
|
# ? Aug 19, 2020 08:08 |
|
I was browsing around on the STI Japan site and found this part called a flexible draw stiffener and I was wondering if anyone knew what it was/did? https://www.sti.jp/en/parts/wrxs4_va/chassis/ST20118VV000/
|
# ? Aug 19, 2020 21:00 |
|
2015 BRZ, ~75,000 miles. A week or so ago on the way to work I noticed a strange "chugging" sound to the engine when I was stopped at a light after about 35 minutes of driving. I didn't think to pull my dashcam card, but it happened again today on the way home at a light so I pulled out my phone and took a vid. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=atE3qW0K8DM You can hear it okay at the beginning and then again at about 10 seconds in. At :15 or so seconds I turned off the AC which did change the sound but it didn't entirely go away. It doesn't sound bad, just different. Once I was in gear it went away and didn't happen at the next light I stopped at. Anything I should be worried about?
|
# ? Aug 20, 2020 00:40 |
|
net work error posted:I was browsing around on the STI Japan site and found this part called a flexible draw stiffener and I was wondering if anyone knew what it was/did? Subframe / lower control arm bracing basically.
|
# ? Aug 20, 2020 01:20 |
|
CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Subframe / lower control arm bracing basically. Gotcha. Is it actually useful? I also have a question for those with current gen WRX's. I have a 2017 and I've started getting this sound when I press in the clutch and was wondering if anyone had any ideas on the source. The car was off in this video (unmute for sound): https://i.imgur.com/CksID93.mp4
|
# ? Aug 20, 2020 18:16 |
|
How many miles? I only ask because my clutch developed a bit of a similar "creaking" sound and apparently it was the very subtle sign that my TOB was starting to go, which I overlooked until it exploded and made me sad. Edit: Mine lasted 73K miles so it might be early. Not sure though, I have a BRZ for what it's worth AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Aug 20, 2020 |
# ? Aug 20, 2020 18:32 |
|
AFewBricksShy posted:How many miles? I only ask because my clutch developed a bit of a similar "creaking" sound and apparently it was the very subtle sign that my TOB was starting to go, which I overlooked until it exploded and made me sad. A little under 29K miles.
|
# ? Aug 20, 2020 18:46 |
|
Subaru Outback 05 model H6 EZ30 auto Just replaced the starter motor. When I turn the key I get 3 soft clicks in rapid succession and no go There's this plug hanging out by the starter but I didn't unplug it when I removed the old starter. It may have come off accidentally while I didn't notice it. Have I done something stupid? Am I missing something obvious? The connections are the right way round on the motor, I'm sure of it. I tightened the top bolt and bottom nut up so it's firmly in. The battery shouldn't be flat (although I suppose it's possible, byt headlights are nice and bright) E: also yes I reattached that vaccuum hose before trying simplefish fucked around with this message at 06:43 on Aug 21, 2020 |
# ? Aug 21, 2020 06:39 |
|
CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:What appears to be the next WRX / Levorg's interior.... https://gamp.ameblo.jp/takeoka-kei330/entry-12619281497.html drat thing looks like it got stung by a bee.
|
# ? Aug 21, 2020 07:37 |
|
simplefish posted:Subaru Outback 05 model That plug is your issue. There will be a matching spade terminal you need to plug it onto on
|
# ? Aug 21, 2020 09:24 |
|
CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:That plug is your issue. There will be a matching spade terminal you need to plug it onto on Thanks, this was it
|
# ? Aug 21, 2020 09:44 |
|
RillAkBea posted:Pretty much confirmed. Pretty much guaranteeing that I'm going through be keeping my current 4th gen hatch and swapping one of those 2.4L engines into it instead of a new car. SwissArmyDruid fucked around with this message at 15:49 on Aug 21, 2020 |
# ? Aug 21, 2020 13:08 |
|
RillAkBea posted:Pretty much confirmed. Crap! I'm trying to get a 2020 WRX, but they're hard to come by in my general vicinity. Efforts must be doubled. It's really just the front that I'm not into. Too big, bubbly. Looks like some missing generation of newer Mustang. The rest is cool, though. I wouldn't object to that interior too badly, even if the retro speedo clashes with everything else. Edit: I clicked to check it out again and I swear the body lines got sharper.
|
# ? Aug 21, 2020 15:31 |
|
They still don't have a new body WRX hatch, do they?
|
# ? Aug 21, 2020 15:47 |
|
|
# ? Apr 26, 2024 18:10 |
|
No, and I really doubt it's going to ever happen. Maybe, if we are super really lucky, the WRX redesign will be a liftback, but I doubt it.
|
# ? Aug 21, 2020 18:46 |