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On my old 2010 WRX the passenger side rear window would constantly get stuck if I didn't use it for a while. There were no problems with the switches or motor, the weatherstripping would just kinda glue the window in place. If I applied some downward force to help break it free then it would be good for a while, but since it was my least used window I would not use it for months and then I would have to repeat the process. If you have a parking situation that would allow to safely keep the car in a with the window down in case you can't get it back up, maybe try to push the window down while pressing the switch to help it and see if its just stuck?
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Sep 6, 2020 03:48
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net work error posted:I gave this a shot today and I think it worked? So far so good not hearing any squeaks right now. That would banish it from my idiot hellcar for a couple of years whenever I relubricated it so hopefully you’re good for a while now!
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Sep 6, 2020 07:22
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DrChu posted:On my old 2010 WRX the passenger side rear window would constantly get stuck if I didn't use it for a while. There were no problems with the switches or motor, the weatherstripping would just kinda glue the window in place. If I applied some downward force to help break it free then it would be good for a while, but since it was my least used window I would not use it for months and then I would have to repeat the process. If you have a parking situation that would allow to safely keep the car in a with the window down in case you can't get it back up, maybe try to push the window down while pressing the switch to help it and see if its just stuck? No luck trying to force the window down. Nothing appears to be stuck to the window. That said, I had to pull off the door panel again because I had left the motor disconnected and in the process saw that the bolts holding the window to the regulator are accessible with the window stuck fully up. So it looks like I do have the option of removing the whole regulator assembly though that still looks like a lot of work albeit less finicky.
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Sep 6, 2020 17:35
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Remove the whole assembly. It's easier to find a complete motor + regulator for most cars (admittedly, I haven't tried for a Subaru yet), and it's just a handful of bolts vs a bunch of little poo poo. You have to deal with pulling the glass, but if you have a helper, that's NBD - have them hold the glass after it's unbolted, then once you set the regulator down, the two of you wiggle it out (poo poo, if it's a frameless door, just yank it straight up and just be careful not to gently caress up the seals too much). Kind of a PITA, but overall easier than replacing just the motor with the regulator still attached.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:15 on Sep 6, 2020 |
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Sep 6, 2020 18:13
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STR posted:Remove the whole assembly. It's easier to find a complete motor + regulator for most cars (admittedly, I haven't tried for a Subaru yet), and it's just a handful of bolts vs a bunch of little poo poo. You have to deal with pulling the glass, but if you have a helper, that's NBD - have them hold the glass after it's unbolted, then once you set the regulator down, the two of you wiggle it out (poo poo, if it's a frameless door, just yank it straight up and just be careful not to gently caress up the seals too much). Kind of a PITA, but overall easier than replacing just the motor with the regulator still attached. Fortunately, it's an '05 and thus frameless. Dorman does have the motor that I'm looking for and it is about $40 cheaper compared to the whole assembly. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0089T00FE https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-741-003-Subaru-Forester-Regulator/dp/B004SEXOFM Or is it wise just the replace the whole thing instead of just the motor and maybe greasing the mechanism as needed? Either way, I think I'll pull the whole assembly out instead of replacing the motor in place.
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Sep 7, 2020 18:44
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dk2m posted:
I have never heard advice like this? Why would you not “lug it” or pass with out down shifting?
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Sep 8, 2020 03:15
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Low RPM + high load is a recipe for knock. At like 4500rpm or higher knock is generally not going to happen much if at all.
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Sep 8, 2020 05:20
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Recently bought a Tein suspension kit for my 08 WRX from jamal. It was still on the stock suspension, which was leaking at best on all four corners. As usual, had a productive conversation with jamal and ended up witha good fit for my budget. The vehicle rides incredibly better now. Much appreciated.
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Sep 8, 2020 13:18
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jamal posted:Low RPM + high load is a recipe for knock. At like 4500rpm or higher knock is generally not going to happen much if at all. To add to this as well, the FA WRX is much more torquier than the EJs, so you don’t have to shift if you don’t want to. I know 3 people that have blown their motor, and the common thread is horrible driving habits that caused LSPI and knock. It doesn’t help that Subaru has tuned it from factory to be on peak boost at 60/70% throttle.
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Sep 8, 2020 13:42
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Man I know Subaru is not the best at what they do, but I have a hard time believing that a factory tuned car is knocking at low rpm on a stock tune. That’s the bread and butter of their EPA tuning area for efficiency. That’s also about the easiest area of RPM range for a knock sensor to protect you. Any stock car should be tuned from the factory to run happily inside the rev range it’s designed for. No OEM wants to pay for warranty work on a car because their ECU allowed damage to happen. Almost all modern turbo cars are near peak boost a low rpm and possibly not full throttle (at least Fiesta ST and Focus ST).
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Sep 8, 2020 18:26
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Well, you used the word "modern" there which the EJ is decidedly not.
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Sep 8, 2020 18:37
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I got an Outback this year with the FA24 engine; since it has the oil filter up top I was going to get an oil extractor and do the changes myself. I'm assuming there's no surprises there, just insert tube, receive goop, right? Also if I wanted to use the Subaru oil (and filter), I have to buy/order it through a dealer, right?
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Sep 9, 2020 17:32
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Is down shifting the automatic cvt in manual mode, to slow down for red lights, bad for the transmission?
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Sep 9, 2020 17:54
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HSxg97m8lLA TLDR: its fine.
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Sep 10, 2020 20:25
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umbrage posted:I got an Outback this year with the FA24 engine; since it has the oil filter up top I was going to get an oil extractor and do the changes myself. I'm assuming there's no surprises there, just insert tube, receive goop, right? In my experience, at least at my local dealer, they don't honor online prices, so I would recommend comparison shopping. There's nothing that says you have to buy from a specific place.
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Sep 10, 2020 22:14
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tyler posted:Is down shifting the automatic cvt in manual mode, to slow down for red lights, bad for the transmission? Jury is very much out but there is some evidence it does add additional wear to the chain in the CVT. To be honest, there is no need to do a manual downshift as the gearbox will simply reset back to ratio 1 when you stop anyway.
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Sep 10, 2020 22:44
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Yeah for going down longer/steeper hills I'll downshift the Outback in "manual" mode but it's absolutely not worth it for something like a red light IMO. No idea about wear being caused or anything just from a driving standpoint.
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Sep 11, 2020 00:12
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https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/482319651058089984/754024699054260314/video0_3.mp4
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Sep 12, 2020 03:39
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:To be honest, there is no need to do a manual downshift as the gearbox will simply reset back to ratio 1 when you stop anyway. It's fun though
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Sep 12, 2020 18:15
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2015 Forester XT. 120k km. Leaking fluid that I suspect may be from CVT as it is seeping around the area of the CVT pan. The pan took a bit of a dent when I was driving on some logging roads and hit some debris a little while ago, shortly before this whole thing started. Are there any components close to the base of the pan that may have been damaged by this or could this be the CVT pump seal (?) issue that happens to these supposedly. I think that would be under the extended warranty but the 300km drive to the Subaru dealership will suck
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Sep 19, 2020 01:17
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my morning jackass posted:2015 Forester XT. 120k km. Leaking fluid that I suspect may be from CVT as it is seeping around the area of the CVT pan. The pan took a bit of a dent when I was driving on some logging roads and hit some debris a little while ago, shortly before this whole thing started. Are there any components close to the base of the pan that may have been damaged by this or could this be the CVT pump seal (?) issue that happens to these supposedly. If you haven't heard any odd noises that sounds like complete mechanical failure in progress, its probably fine. Your pan seal sounds like it may have been compromised though while you were doing sweet jumps onto tree stumps. Likely it smashed your seal somewhere along the pan. Do take it in to have someone look at it if you're looking to prevent future problems with your transmission.
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Sep 22, 2020 08:22
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Anyone here from the PNW? I'm moving from Milwaukee to Seattle. Should I take my winter tires for my WRX with me? Looks like I should expect it to only get down to ~40 degrees and rainy during the winter in Seattle, but even if I won't have a weekly Milwaukee blizzard to drive through it seems like I might still need them for the surrounding mountains & driving up to Canada. e: Also 93 octane is available pretty much everywhere in the Milwaukee/Chicago area, is that also the case in the greater Seattle area? I've got a stock WRX save the ECU flash for 93 octane. ThePeavstenator fucked around with this message at 11:43 on Sep 22, 2020 |
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Sep 22, 2020 11:40
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You're going to run into places on the drive that only sell 91 octane in the rockies due to elevation. Our selection in Colorado is 85, 87, 91, at the pumps, probably the same for Wyoming, Montana and Idaho.
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Sep 22, 2020 14:06
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CRUSTY MINGE posted:You're going to run into places on the drive that only sell 91 octane in the rockies due to elevation. Our selection in Colorado is 85, 87, 91, at the pumps, probably the same for Wyoming, Montana and Idaho. I'm getting my car shipped out so I don't need to worry about gas on the way.
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Sep 22, 2020 14:08
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IIRC (don't live there, but have visited a few time), premium in Washington (or at least Seattle) is generally 92 octane.
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Sep 22, 2020 17:11
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You only get 91 or maybe 92 here, and yes it does snow sometimes.
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Sep 22, 2020 17:16
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ThePeavstenator posted:Anyone here from the PNW? I'm moving from Milwaukee to Seattle. Should I take my winter tires for my WRX with me? Looks like I should expect it to only get down to ~40 degrees and rainy during the winter in Seattle, but even if I won't have a weekly Milwaukee blizzard to drive through it seems like I might still need them for the surrounding mountains & driving up to Canada. In the city, it might snow for up to a week a year, or it might not snow at all. If it does snow, it tends to have a brutal freeze/thaw cycle that ices over all the roads, as it will barely drop into the 20s overnight and then be like mid 30s during the day. And the city is extremely hilly to boot. So if you can just not drive those days, then you don't need snow tires. Even if you're fully prepared for conditions, it's the other idiots on the roads that are very much not. Other than those fluke snow days, the winters are pretty consistently 40-50 degrees and damp. In those conditions even summer tires are perfectly fine, though not ideal. We as a city have all silently agreed that "snow days" are a thing in Seattle, and most non-essential jobs and businesses close down with even 1" on the ground. It's a bit ridiculous, and we all know it, but it's nice to feel like a kid again praying for a school closure... except for adults. Although who knows now with all this COVID remote work going on and no commuting conditions excuse. However, if you plan on heading into the mountains for skiing or driving to Canada in the winter you will likely want them. Pass conditions vary, and can change rapidly. Having winter tires is extra peace of mind when the snow storm picks up while you're on the ski slope. British Columbia requires actual winter tires (at least snowflake symbol) in the winter, unlike our stone age DOT rules in Washington. Since you have AWD you basically get a pass from WSDOT for mountain conditions, regardless of tire, legally speaking. It's really no problem throwing winters on in about November/December and keeping em on until March/April, since it will rarely get above 50 or so. Most years this is what I do. Most gas stations around here offer 92 octane. I don't recall seeing 93 much if at all. Occasionally 91 is the best available, but usually 92. It's extremely difficult and extra expensive to find 0% ethanol gas, if that matters. Guinness fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Sep 22, 2020 |
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Sep 22, 2020 19:23
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Just finished a track night at Lime Rock yesterday with my Legacy wagon. Has a great time but the car definitely needs better brakes. I am currently running Hawk HPS pads, Centric rotors, and DOT4 fluid. OEM calipers, lines, and MC. Before biting the bullet and doing a big brake kit I want to try better pads for the next few track days I’ll do. So I’m looking for a decent street pad and a track pad to swap to. The HPS pads do well on the street but they are very dusty, and they didn’t last at all on the track (got some fade and they wore down way too quickly). Any suggestions for a decent street pad that has less dust than the HPS that still stops well, and a more durable track pad?
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Sep 23, 2020 14:31
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Guinness posted:In the city, it might snow for up to a week a year, or it might not snow at all. If it does snow, it tends to have a brutal freeze/thaw cycle that ices over all the roads, as it will barely drop into the 20s overnight and then be like mid 30s during the day. And the city is extremely hilly to boot. So if you can just not drive those days, then you don't need snow tires. Even if you're fully prepared for conditions, it's the other idiots on the roads that are very much not. Thanks for the info. I don't really care about ethanol, but good to know for the octane. I'll just reflash to the 91 stock tune before I move.
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Sep 23, 2020 15:54
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i own every Bionicle posted:Just finished a track night at Lime Rock yesterday with my Legacy wagon. Has a great time but the car definitely needs better brakes. For a street pass with less dust you'd probably need to go to something like oem, standard parts store, posi quiet, etc. I just put on the 308 prefix stoptech street pads. They seem fine but definitely have less than the 309 old street/new sport compound. They do have a higher mot than the hps but it's still an in between pad. Remind me what year legacy you have? What you can get is going to depend on your calipers, but hawk's dtc-60 is available in most of the stock shapes, as is ferodo's ds3000 and some carbotechs.
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Sep 23, 2020 18:29
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On brake chat, any good pad recommendations for daily driving on the 2020 WRX (non-STI) Brembos? I've never owned larger brakes, and never provided any input when my pads needed changing in the past. Need they be any more specialized than your average ceramic pads? I'm having a time trying to search for the OEM parts, due to the overlap with the larger STI brakes. Just trying to collect a few good brands/models and price ranges for when the time comes! I don't mind if they're a little noisy and moody in the pedal, but I'd put value into lower dust and affordability/longevity. I do like the OEM pads, but I have no idea what they even are. enojy fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Sep 23, 2020 |
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Sep 23, 2020 18:54
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ThePeavstenator posted:Anyone here from the PNW? I'm moving from Milwaukee to Seattle. Should I take my winter tires for my WRX with me? Looks like I should expect it to only get down to ~40 degrees and rainy during the winter in Seattle, but even if I won't have a weekly Milwaukee blizzard to drive through it seems like I might still need them for the surrounding mountains & driving up to Canada. as long as they arent the studded garbage tires, our roads are bad enough.
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Sep 23, 2020 22:02
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jamal posted:For a street pass with less dust you'd probably need to go to something like oem, standard parts store, posi quiet, etc. The car is an 05. Have also considered the ATS-V caliper with 04 STI rotor upgrade. Any thoughts on this? It’s a cheap way to get brembos but they don’t say much regarding matching the piston area, and it involves a spacer under the rotor/longer studs, which sounds janky to me due to needlessly changing the scrub radius.
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Sep 23, 2020 22:35
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The pistons sizes are actually fine on that one, according to my math the brake torque between stock lgt brakes and the ats caliper on an brembo rotor is identical given the same pad. But yeah I'm not thrilled with the mounting and spacer deal. The other thing is the brembo rotor is only barely bigger than your stock one (you have a GT?) at 326mm vs 316. So minimal gain in heat capacity therethere, but if you did want to go to a fixed 4-pot there's a bracket to use the "Z32" nissan 4-pot with the stock LGT rotor. https://knsbrakes.com/c/car-item/4901_2017+Subaru+BRZ+with+Brembo+Brakes/112908_Subaru+Z32+Front+Caliper+Adapter+Bracket+Kit Not an upgrade in heat capacity, but a fixed caliper and better pad selection and easier pad changes at least. But I think I'd probably try a good pad first and then if that's not working spend the money on something like stoptech's st40 kit. I got a set of their new lightweight C43 calipers for a guy with an s2000 who's on here and he seems to like them, but that's more of a small/light car brake kit. enojy posted:On brake chat, any good pad recommendations for daily driving on the 2020 WRX (non-STI) Brembos? I've never owned larger brakes, and never provided any input when my pads needed changing in the past. Need they be any more specialized than your average ceramic pads? I'm having a time trying to search for the OEM parts, due to the overlap with the larger STI brakes. Just trying to collect a few good brands/models and price ranges for when the time comes! Your brake pads and rotors should be the same as what's on the 08-17 sti. It's just the 2018+ that gets bigger ones. jamal fucked around with this message at 06:59 on Sep 24, 2020 |
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Sep 24, 2020 01:45
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jamal posted:Your brake pads and rotors should be the same as what's on the 08-17 sti. It's just the 2018+ that gets bigger ones. Oh that's great, thanks! I mistakingly assumed that the STI had always had big(ger) brakes.
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Sep 24, 2020 06:28
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Yeah, it is a GT. I will have to do some research before I go to a full four pot setup. If I am going to do that upgrade I’m going to do it right and get a measurably bigger rotor since I am running 18” wheels anyway. Also, almost all brake components are new this year (MC, flex lines, calipers freshly rebuilt) so I’d like to get some use out of them before I replace it all again. For a street pad, any experience with Hawk ceramic? And for a track pad, do I need any different rotor? It will also need some bigger sway bars this winter. Side note: Last winter I went to ID1050’s and an AEM 340 at my tuner’s suggestion. I also added a Killer B ELH (and I switched to Motul so with the rumble and Rotella gone I have had to turn in my vape and flat brim), and I have noticed a huge reduction in phantom feedback knock. I used to get numbers as high as -12 during a redline shift sometimes even when it was very smooth and gentle, but now all I ever see is an occasional -1.4 or once in a while -2.8 on tip in. I had asked my tuner about it and he said that for whatever reason Legacy’s like to do that for some reason and not to worry about it unless it happens in sustained WOT or if DAM drops, but again, I haven’t had it happen at all with the new parts.
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Sep 24, 2020 14:04
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i own every Bionicle posted:The car is an 05. I heard either C5 or C6 6 pot calipers are a direct replacement for STI calipers while not paying STI caliper prices
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Sep 24, 2020 16:36
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https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a...ONp_KVPUs0vbtBc New 2022 WRX prototype spotted. It looks like a Hyundai from the back but whatever - nothing too unexpected motor wise, but I hope they tune the FA24 to be more than 260HP. 330HP would probably be a good starting spot if the rumored 400HP STI is true.
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Sep 24, 2020 16:55
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If you are swapping pads for track on the same rotor I have heard it's good to keep the pads the same brand but on the other hand your track pad is going to take off any transfer layer from the street pad and the street pad is going to do nothing back in comparison so it probably doesn't matter that much unless you are getting a ton of noise or a glazed over feeling with the street pads. But yeah add hawk ceramics to that list of quiet, non dusty pads I mentioned earlier.bonelessdongs posted:I heard either C5 or C6 6 pot calipers are a direct replacement for STI calipers while not paying STI caliper prices I highly doubt the mounting holes line up. Pretty sure you need those same, or a similar bracket from that place that makes the adapters for the GM 4-pot.
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Sep 24, 2020 17:44
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Cool. I think I will do DTC-60 for the track. Decently wide temp range and good stopping power. The most helpful graph I found is of course from a vendor and not the Hawk website: 
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Sep 24, 2020 18:42
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