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Lord of Garbagemen posted:Do you have the new style? I replaced mine and had the head decked at 60k, now at 200k with nary an issue. source fellow 251 owner. Yeah, 2nd to last year model of the 251 on the Legacy line. 2003 Outback. I think the only model that took it an extra year was the Baja(ha). I'm fairly sure the engine has been apart before (the heads and valve covers look brand loving new, and the timing belt was done 20k miles ago), but I'm losing a small amount of coolant. Need to add about a cup every month (and it's not pulling it from the overflow either - my only clue that it's time to top it off is when I hear gurgling behind the dash at startup). It runs decent. Not fantastic (there's some off-idle stumble that's bugging me, but I haven't done poo poo to actually fix it, so....), but it's not spewing smoke either, passes smog, and no CEL. Has 148k on it right now. I'm more worried about the E4AT making GBS threads itself.
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Jun 28, 2020 14:48
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Welp, just scored a Cobb downpipe and heat shield. Time to get bloody. Hopefully I can work a deal or something since I literally finished a tune a few days ago.
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Jun 28, 2020 21:25
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STR posted:Yeah, 2nd to last year model of the 251 on the Legacy line. 2003 Outback. I think the only model that took it an extra year was the Baja(ha). Out of curiosity, does this tend to happen more/less depending on the angle you park? You reminded me that a while back I used to have a gurgling noise fairly often but mostly at work, I can't remember if it was on startup or turning the car off. The parking spaces at work angled down towards the front for drainage, whereas my home parking spot didn't, I never figured out what it was before I wrecked the car but it hasn't come back.
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Jun 30, 2020 09:14
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Usually flat. And the gurgling only comes back if it's a bit low, only at startup.
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Jun 30, 2020 10:36
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Okay, thanks. I'll try to keep an eye out for it once I get this thing off the jackstands, hopefully within a couple days. I finally got the ball joint out with judicious application of a welding torch and rubber mallet, but taking the new one out of the box I see a split washer in the package and I'm not sure what that is for. I see the bolt to go through the housing, the castle nut, a fresh cotter pin, but I don't remember seeing a split washer coming off before. Does it go onto the far side of the bolt going through the housing?
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Jun 30, 2020 20:00
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Double post: Is the front control arm bushing swelling a thing that happens? Both of mine aren't fitting into the brackets easily, on the left side I had to loosen the crossmember to get it to fit, going to try that on the right side as well. Looking at pictures of new control arms online they seem to not have as much coming out the side. OTOH the same thing happened when I put a brand new one in before, so maybe not? Do you put the rear bushing on the frame first? That's what the instructions say, but maybe that's bad advice. I used a ball joint separator to press out a stud from one of the old rear mounts and press it in on the new mount, but it's a tiny bit loose so I'm going to JB-weld it. It wouldn't come out while driving because the nut would keep it on, but jostling it when putting the strut on made it come loose. Jamal, I'm going to send you an email but if you see this first, is there anything tricky about positioning the Pedder mounts? The strut doesn't seem to want to line up with the hub on this one, I had no problem with the other side.
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Jun 30, 2020 23:05
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I'm finally moving to a place with a garage (1.5 car!) and can finally work on my Crosstrek on my own. It's a 2019 I bought new and i've been doing the oil changes / regular services at the dealership - what can / should I do on my own? What tools / other gear should I get? I want to install a Curt hitch receiver on it for a bike rack (since i'm moving to LA where I need to drive to trails) and looking at youtube it seems fairly easy to do with a lift, but I won't have a lift. Are jackstands still a good idea or are ramps better for lifting the car to work on?
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Jul 1, 2020 03:59
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How bad would it be to not have the bottom strut insulator on the rear struts of my Impreza? I didn't order any initially, saw that the fronts didn't have any on mine, and figured it must just be different features of different models of struts since I had to get new fronts after one prematurely failed a while back. I looked it up and it looks like only the rears have them, so I got replacements, but I'm really ready to just have this thing on the road again.
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Jul 2, 2020 07:58
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Downpipe is in the car, running the Cobb OTS stage 2 tune. Car seems to like it, but the tune is way conservative to the e-tune I was running from BrenTuning. Flex fuel parts are ordered, injectors will be here tomorrow. Everything else except for the flex fuel sensor will ship tomorrow and I should have them on hand early next week. I will be installing all of the parts myself, to save on cash and to learn about the car. The flex fuel sensor is on backorder so I will just be running a modified stage 3 tune until I get the sensor in. Great thing is that the shop/tuner I am now working with is only charging me for one tune for the whole process. I will be installing a AEM wideband controller with sensor (no gauge, will be using the AP), and I have been trying really hard to find a wiring diagram for the 19 STI to see the pinout for where I will be tapping into the car. I have not decided if I will delete the rear O2 and use that connector for simplicity or tap into the right side TGV sensor. Does anyone have access or know if the pinout and wire colors are the same as previous years?
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Jul 2, 2020 15:07
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Can anyone tell me what the specs are for the stock turbo that comes with the 07 WRX, I've looked all over google and nowhere gives the dimensions and numbers or any other data.
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Jul 2, 2020 19:42
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DevCore posted:Can anyone tell me what the specs are for the stock turbo that comes with the 07 WRX, I've looked all over google and nowhere gives the dimensions and numbers or any other data. Did you already dig through this? https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1141476 This seems to break it down further. https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1213890
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Jul 3, 2020 00:41
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tacopie posted:Did you already dig through this? Thanks! This is a good place to start from
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Jul 3, 2020 03:19
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I can't believe i'm thinking of doing more to my car when I haven't even quite gotten it back together, but sometime in the next 6 months to a year I'll need to do the spark plugs or have them done. It looks like on the first generation Impreza (which I have) if I pull the air filter box to the side and remove the washer fluid reservoir I'll have a straight shot at all the plug holes, is that the way to go? I tried when I first got the car and hosed it up, didn't get one of them screwed in right and got a misfire. So I had a shop do it last time, but now looking in there it seems like all I have to do is remove those two and then I'll have enough space to do it.
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Jul 4, 2020 22:02
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I can't believe i'm thinking of doing more to my car when I haven't even quite gotten it back together, but sometime in the next 6 months to a year I'll need to do the spark plugs or have them done. It looks like on the first generation Impreza (which I have) if I pull the air filter box to the side and remove the washer fluid reservoir I'll have a straight shot at all the plug holes, is that the way to go? I tried when I first got the car and hosed it up, didn't get one of them screwed in right and got a misfire. So I had a shop do it last time, but now looking in there it seems like all I have to do is remove those two and then I'll have enough space to do it. Yep with those out of the way you can get to them. Might need an extension and a ujoint but it's been a while since I've done plugs on a sohc
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Jul 5, 2020 20:27
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Hmmm, think it might be time for some new shifter bushings. what do you guys think? https://i.imgur.com/ARfJPpq.mp4 (yes it is in 1st gear, I promise)
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Jul 8, 2020 14:45
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Hugh G. Rectum posted:Hmmm, think it might be time for some new shifter bushings. what do you guys think? Yeah, that could do with some work.
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Jul 8, 2020 15:34
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What year? Pre 99 used an external return spring on the linkage, after that it was internal. 35047AC030 is the older u-joint with a little tab for the spring 35046AG000 is the newer one You can also take it out, drill out the rivets, replace the bushings with something you find that works, and put it back together with bolts. Replacing it is generally easier. Hardest part is getting out the roll pin sometimes. A specific roll pin punch with the little nub on the end to keep it in place, plus wedging a block of wood or something between the actuation rod and chassis so your hammering is actually doing something useful helps. I made a thing about subaru shifters here but I need to re-write it one of these days https://hellafunctional.com/?p=1626
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Jul 8, 2020 15:35
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jamal posted:What year? Pre 99 used an external return spring on the linkage, after that it was internal. awesome, thanks for the write up! It's a '98 and I'd been putting it off because I had heard somewhere that you needed to drop the transmission at least partially to get at the linkages. Is that true? I'm definitely going to just replace everything, nothing in there has been touched. 22 years and 283k miles have definitely taken their toll, I'll be surprised if there's any bushings left at all. shockingly, it's really not hard to shift at all. maybe it's just because I've been driving it for so long but I never have any trouble finding gears or anything. semi-related, I know I need to get in there to get at the reverse-light switch. the reverse lights just stopped turning on one day out of the blue, zero warning. double and triple checked the wiring and bulbs and they're all good. is there anything else it could be?
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Jul 8, 2020 16:09
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Hugh G. Rectum posted:shockingly, it's really not hard to shift at all. maybe it's just because I've been driving it for so long but I never have any trouble finding gears or anything. FWIW, my roommate's 03 WRX was doing that too, maybe slightly worse. He had a lot of trouble finding 3rd and 4th in it for a couple of years. I had no problem whatsoever - he owned the car from 2005 to 2020, I moved it a handful of times and only drove it 3 times; it was vague as hell finding gears, but I could find them easily enough.  He swore up and down I was the only person who was able to reliably find gears on it.Finding 1st was kinda difficult, took a hard left slam+up. 2nd was slam to the left again and straight down (even just coming out of 1st). The other gears were cake. The shifter itself felt like it was hitting something going left. He was told it was bushings + cables by a shop several years ago, and they claimed they needed to drop the trans. It's some auction lot's problem now, so...  randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:40 on Jul 8, 2020 |
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Jul 8, 2020 16:37
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My WRX had bad syncros from the factory. It would grind into first at a complete stop. It was replaced under warranty though.
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Jul 8, 2020 17:14
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My 2015 WRX grinds reverse for some reason. Luckily it's the gear I use the least. I just push the clutch in and wait 5 seconds for the trans to spool down before moving the shifter into gear.
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Jul 8, 2020 18:01
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Shift into 1st, then reverse, without releasing the clutch.
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Jul 8, 2020 18:05
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Yeah, I don't think reverse is synchronized. It's been funky in every Subaru I've owned.
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Jul 8, 2020 19:05
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Yeah, I don't think reverse is synchronized. It's been funky in every Subaru I've owned. I think the six speed
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Jul 8, 2020 19:34
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The trans mount does need to get unbolted to lower the trans a bit but that's really easy. Assuming none of the captive nuts in the chassis break off. Some heat shield, drveshaft, exhaust stuff can also be in the way. What i like to do is collect a few other parts like a trans mount and the bushings that go in the xmember, the u-joint, and front and rear shifter bushings and do it all at the same time. Could also do things like rear subframe lock bolts and outrigger bushings but that's kind of separate.
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Jul 8, 2020 21:58
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I think it's because reverse is straight cut. I don't remember driving any car you don't have to do that sometimes.
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Jul 8, 2020 22:09
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Charles posted:I think it's because reverse is straight cut. I don't remember driving any car you don't have to do that sometimes. yeah you can tell reverse is straight cut just from the sound it makes. I've never had trouble getting into 1st gear while at a dead stop, but if the car is moving the slightest bit you have to double clutch to grab 1st. it's really not that hard, when you get it just right it almost sucks the shifter out of your hand. it's very satisfying getting it perfect while rolling. it also makes a great excuse not to lend my car to friends who "totally know how to drive manual, bro!" yet find concepts like "rev matching" and "not slipping the clutch all the way through 1st and 2nd" totally alien. it's not that it's too hard, they just don't give a flying gently caress because it's not their car and not their clutch. you roast my clutch, I roast your nuts
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Jul 9, 2020 00:14
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Saabaru has been throwing a P0457 - something with the evap system. I haven't had time to take a good look, but hoses seem OK at first glance. PS pump was replaced by someone else recently so I suspected they may have knocked something loose or damaged something brittle up front. I replaced gas cap and gasket. Today I saw it's adding P2097 - post cat mix too rich. Any ideas why these two would coexist? blk fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Jul 9, 2020 |
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Jul 9, 2020 06:27
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Is the front undertray/splash guard thing necessary on an already-rusting 07 WRX? The two rear-most bolts just turn and turn without coming out, the captive nuts don't appear to be spinning so it seems like the threads on the bolts might be stripped? The splash guard gets in the way when doing any work under the car and it's a PITA. Don't have power in the garage to get a dremel to the bolts, don't have an angle grinder... edit lol apparently I said this same thing over a year ago and completely forgot, time is a flat circle in quarantine land
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Jul 9, 2020 15:10
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Keep it if you can, it may help with fuel economy and wind noise.
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Jul 9, 2020 15:28
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um excuse me posted:Keep it if you can, it may help with fuel economy and wind noise.
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Jul 10, 2020 01:08
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For those that are following along.. Fuel injectors aren't as bad to install as people lead you to believe. I think I would rather hit myself in the dick, repeatedly with a hammer than to go through that again though. 1050x are installed. AEM 340 installed. Cobb PFR installed. Working with the tuner now. Thanks for reading.
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Jul 12, 2020 18:31
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Im waiting for anyone to release a bolt on kit for port injection for 2015+ WRX. It's driving me nuts that no one makes one that isn't a hacked up BRZ manifold. The main reason is I'd like to get a healthy bump in fuel capacity without relocating the intercooler. Because if I do that then I might as well upgrade the turbo and then it suddenly becomes a $5000 project for fuel injectors.
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Jul 12, 2020 19:00
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Question about an issue that popped up today on my 08 WRX. About an hour and a half into a drive today the check engine and traction control light came on, and the cruise control light started blinking. I pulled over to check it out but everything seems fine, engine is running the same, no smells, engine temp was normal. I also turned it off and started it back up and everything seemed normal, but the same 3 lights came on. Anyone experienced this before? Seems like a sensor issue since the car is running fine, but it seems like such a weird mix of lights to come on. Hoping for some insight before I take it somewhere to get checked and pay for any repairs.
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Jul 12, 2020 19:48
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Immolat1on posted:Question about an issue that popped up today on my 08 WRX. About an hour and a half into a drive today the check engine and traction control light came on, and the cruise control light started blinking. I pulled over to check it out but everything seems fine, engine is running the same, no smells, engine temp was normal. I also turned it off and started it back up and everything seemed normal, but the same 3 lights came on. Pull the engine code if you have a reader. You can also go to auto zone or a similar place and have them read it. That’ll tell you exactly what’s wrong. Those three lights together mean the engine is limiting itself due to something. I bet it’s like an o2 sensor or exhaust issue. Regardless, the code will tell you exactly what it is.
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Jul 12, 2020 20:05
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I get those on my '15 every now and then, maybe twice a year, for multiple misfire detected. But I have a tuned car so . What you're car is doing is a general limp mode of sorts. A sort of precaution. I've never had it happen where it was an immediate serious issue.
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Jul 12, 2020 20:16
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Did you just fill up? Could be something as silly as a loose gas cap. Amazon sells cheap bluetooth OBD2 readers that you can use along with an app on your phone to read the codes.
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Jul 12, 2020 21:05
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100% that code will be emissions related. The same thing is currently happening on my 11 WRX because the driveshaft wore through the rear 02 sensor cable. The shop I go to explained that that's the Subaru response - it basically defaults it to a 'safe' mix/fuel map and cancels your TC and cruise, which is annoying. Edit: I have a Veepeak OBDII BT code reader from Amazon, and use the Torque app to read/clear codes and get more info about various systems.
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Jul 13, 2020 07:07
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Looks like I hosed something up with my install. Car will bog if I blip the throttle, and will hesitate when going into boost, but it feels like there is no boost. Tuner thinks it's a vacuum leak, last night at idle fuel trim was 10.1. I replaced the vacuum lines for the FPR and inspected all that I could have maybe knocked loose. Reset the ECU, car felt fine but it's back to the same. I'm thinking I might have hosed the fuel pump install away. I'll be pulling that out again to see.
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Jul 13, 2020 15:37
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Just checked the code with my access port and it was.... loose gas cap. Now I'm embarrassed I got all worried about it but I had never seen limp mode before (or had to check engine codes) but it was a good learning experience for a car noob. Thanks for assuring me it was probably nothing goons.
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Jul 13, 2020 15:38
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