|
Hey Bob, youve got my exact same car  and Im in Florida too! And really miss snow.Anyway, I bought a black 2004 Forester XT 5 speed early this summer, and have loved every bit of it. All Ive done is add an accessport so far, though. I cant decide what to do with the suspension, though. I really love being able to just go crashing over whatever lovely streets I have to drive through, but I really want it low like Me-262s car. I really, really want to paint the roof rails black, too. Looks a lot cleaner.
|
#
¿
Oct 3, 2008 02:37
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 11:54 |
|
|
Dr. Ninja posted:Anyone else made the transition from a WRX to a Forester? Is driving even fun anymore? I'm currently shopping around for an ~04 or 05 because I need more space to store poo poo and I could use a little extra cash in the pocket. I'm tempted to go down to the X or XS to save on fuel but I don't know if I can let go of the turbo AWD. I started out buying a 04 forester xt 5 speed. Ive never driven a wrx of any sort, though, so I cant say if its less fun. Mine has an accessport, but is otherwise stock. It is loving fun. Its a total blast to drive. The turbo makes me giggle a little bit. Cant wait for some decent exhaust bits. Also, I made the move to the forester from a lowered volvo 850. Being able to bomb over bumps, brick roads, driveways and whatever else gets in my way is soooooooo nice. And I havent asked the girlfriend about a threesome, but it did let me help her move. So maybe ill ask and say 'But baby, I helped you MOVE!' To those of you who have driven both, how similar is the xt to a wrx? hedgegnome fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Oct 17, 2008 |
|
#
¿
Oct 17, 2008 01:54
|
|
|
Can someone tell me about cheapo ebay downpipes? I really want a new one, but really dont want to spend $500. Theres tons of downpipes on ebay in the 100-150 range, which is much better. Same thing with headers, too. I realize they may not be made as well as the name brands, but I can deal with that for that big a price difference. Will I hate myself if I get this http://tinyurl.com/a6yh33 and this http://tinyurl.com/8cdqtg ? Oh, this is going on my 2004 Forester XT
hedgegnome fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Jan 18, 2009 |
|
#
¿
Jan 18, 2009 02:15
|
|
|
jamal posted:helpful advice So ok, I found a cobb dp going for cheap right now, im going to try for that. If not ill check invidia. The only mod i have now is an accessport, so that will go well together. For the exhaust, I want to keep the stock axelback to keep the noise down. Everything Ive read says louder exhausts get boomy cause of the extra cabin space. Also cops around here are dicks about modded exhausts. I may go with a stock sti axelback if I can find one locally, though. Id still like a good sport sound, just nothing LOUD. What would be a good budget choice for the rest? As for the headers, even if the cheapo ones crack, i could have a shop weld it back up right? I had a gti pipe crack on me, and the shop i use fixed it for 20 bucks. I keep reading nasioc, but there are SO many choices its nuts. Plus having a forester and not a wrx/sti complicates things, but I know its still mostly the same. And god, I love my forester  Since Im here, guess Ill ask about suspension. I want it lower, but dont want to panic if I see a pothole or brick road. Im looking at these http://tinyurl.com/86q6us since I hear good things about them. For the same price I could get a used suspension off a wrx, though. Or an sti, too, but Im afraid thats going to be too low. I also want to install this myself. Springs would be easier, but Im willing to try a full suspension swap. Never done one before, though and im not sure it wont be more than I should try. Any advice?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 18, 2009 18:13
|
|
|
Hey guys look what I got!    Its a "stealth TBE" as described by the seller. All one piece, custom made with a stock STI muffler. It came off his 2004 WRX. Im pretty sure it will fit fine. Seems ok, and he said it was fairly quiet. It was off the car already, so I diddnt get to hear it. But I think itll be fine, and for the price (275 WITH a complete set of WRX struts with 70k on them) I cant complain. Any advice on how to go about it? This is my first exhaust install. I want to clean up and repaint the muffler flat black. Also, I think I should get the long kartboy hangers. Other than that, Im hoping it just goes right on. This is going on (i hope) a 2004 Forester XT. Cant wait till this weekend! OH and I want to drive my car in snow SO drat BAD. Stupid florida. But at least its gotten cold enough to use my heated seats! Best things ever. hedgegnome fucked around with this message at 06:41 on Jan 29, 2009 |
|
#
¿
Jan 29, 2009 06:38
|
|
|
Hey look what I did yesterday! Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. Now sitting on 2004 WRX sedan springs and struts. Maybe a little hard to tell in the picture, but I think Im getting a touch of saggy butt. I was expecting this, and was planning on getting either stock wagon springs or new aftermarket before I put them on. But I have some unplanned down time, Im bored, and Im broke. So on they went! Im really, really happy with them. The ride is perfect, actually a little firmer than I was expecting. Ive never ridden in a wrx, so I wasnt sure what to expect. And the drop is perfect! So instead of springs, for now I think Ill just get some spacers. Even better, I did it all by myself! Only problem I had was snapping a cheap harbor freight 1/2" to 3/8" adaptor while trying to undo the rear bolts. Oops. I even managed to keep the alignment pretty straight. Doesnt pull at all, but Im still getting it checked in a few days. Only thing is, now my steering wheel is a little off center when it should be straight. How did I manage to do that, and how do I fix it? Ohh, and does it matter what direction the tophat for the fronts goes on at? The instructions I was following were for putting the same struts back in, and said to mark the top bolts to make sure they went in the same way they came out. Since I was putting in new ones, that diddnt really apply. I couldnt see anything that said how they should go, and my haynes diddnt say anything either. Am I cool? Everything feels good after a bit of driving around today. hedgegnome fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Mar 3, 2009 |
|
#
¿
Mar 3, 2009 20:02
|
|
|
jamal posted:front tops are symmetrical, so that doesn't matter. When you get an alignment have the front negative camber maxed out and the toe set to zero all around. Yeah, ok thats what I thought. Got the alignment done today at the dealer. Everything is all better now And those spacers are exactly what I was talking about Will unbolting the tops enough to slip in a spacer mess with the rear alignment? It wont need to come down much, but its still going to be moving around a bit. As long as I dont touch the lower bolts, it should be fine, right?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 4, 2009 21:31
|
|
|
Cat Terrist posted:Oh god no, anything but that shithole. Seriosuly, is the worst loving Subaru forum on the planet, even Aust Rexnet is far better. Do yourself a favour and look at Scoobymods Its good for a few things. The classifieds are great. I got my accessport for 300 there. Also got my turboback and wrx springs and struts for 300.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 11, 2009 03:44
|
|
|
I installed a 45mm omori boost gauge on my 2004 Forester a few days ago. Its a pretty nice little thing, but the install guide wasnt exactly clear and I cant find a lot of info from others doing the same install. So, my questions.. Heres under the hood coming off the pressure regulator. This seems right, and its been fine for the few days since I put it in.  Click here for the full 1200x1600 image. Heres where I mounted the sending unit. I tried to keep the line out of harms way. Everything look cool?  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. And inside, Ive got it mounted on the steering column. Its getting power off the clock harness. I couldnt find a good wiring diagram telling me which wire was what, and diddnt find anything helpful online. As of now the wires are just stuck in the back of the plug, and its working after a little trial and error. I plan on cutting the leads and using a butt connector or something similar as a permanant fix. Sound ok? Anyone know what colors I should NOT be spliced into? Ive since found a factory pdf diagram of the clock harness, but it diddnt help much. And finally, the thing is BRIGHT at night. Too bright. I plan on sticking a resistor inline to dim it down, as Ive read this gauge doesnt work with the factory dimming. Can I do this without problems? Also, this came with it.  Click here for the full 1200x1600 image. What the hell is it, and should I be using it somewhere? Ive compared the boost the gauge reads with my accessport, and its right at about 12psi. Im running a 91 octane stage 2 stock accessport map with a full turbo back going into a sti muffler. Thanks!!
|
|
#
¿
Mar 22, 2009 18:07
|
|
|
Hmm, ok. Well, its pretty smooth and seems ok so I may not need it. I noticed something though, when I had the accessport hooked up reading boost. The gauge would read about 10psi off from what the accessport read at idle. It matches on boost, though, so Im not worried about it. Ill have to look for the factory gauge harness. It might work better than going through the clock. Plus, my clock light isnt working now. Related? Hmm.. Oh, and a 330k resistor dims it down perfectly. I have a small dimmer pot that I considered putting somewhere, but thought that would be kinda silly. hedgegnome fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Mar 23, 2009 |
|
#
¿
Mar 23, 2009 00:50
|
|
|
Small question here. Ive got a 2004 forester xt mt. I had an v1 accessport, and was running the base tune for a stock, zero mods car. I just got broken into, and they stole my accessport. Ive found a replacement on ebay, the guy had it for a 06 wrx mt. So, can I just buy that and use it with no problems? Im pretty sure itll work with my car normally, but wasnt sure if having the previous accessport installed on it would cause problems. Thanks!
|
|
#
¿
Mar 29, 2011 00:58
|
|
|
Err well I bought the last one used, too. Dont think theyll give me a discount.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 29, 2011 01:12
|
|
|
Hey, Ive got a suspension question, and thought Id post it here. Ive got a 2004 forester XT. A few years ago, I swapped in some stock take offs from a WRX. Ive got about 110k miles on them now, and was looking to get some new springs. I wanted some wagon springs so I could get rid of the saggy butt and maybe go just a smidge lower. But with the miles, should I just get new shocks/struts too? I just did a coast to coast drive with the car very heavily loaded, and Im noticing a new creaking noise from the rear. Speed bumps or anything that causes the car to flex makes it creeeeeak. Is this a sign? Or is it maybe coming from something else? Other than the creak, it still rides just fine. But will new springs kill whats left of the shocks? hedgegnome fucked around with this message at 20:26 on Jan 17, 2012 |
|
#
¿
Jan 17, 2012 20:22
|
|
|
Cool, thanks for the tip on the KYBs. They look like theyd work pretty well. If I order a set, I should just order them for a WRX wagon, correct? And any advice on springs? Im looking for no more than an inch drop over the stock WRX, with decent ride quality. While Im all up in my cars business, I want to start taking care of some other suspension wear items. I think my front swaybar endlinks are shot, so those are getting replaced. Im not sure what Im replacing them with just yet, though. Id thought about using all stock STI bars and endlinks, front and back. Is there any reason I should go aftermarket? And jamal, thanks. What does removing the spacers do? Ill look into doing the linkage while Im in there, too. Is it as simple as just swapping it out? Nothing else needs to be changed? hedgegnome fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Jan 18, 2012 |
|
#
¿
Jan 17, 2012 23:45
|
|
|
Ive been running the WRX setup for about 3 years, and really like the ride and height. So yeah, Id like to stick with that but a touch lower. Is there a reason not to use the stock tophats (if theyre still good)? And Im not set on using STI bits, im still researching my options. From what Id seen, they fit my goals of price, ease of installation and performance. Ill keep that in mind, thanks again.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 18, 2012 00:22
|
|
|
So, i just bought a 99 outback sport wagon last week. Its AMAZING. Or at least, Im pretty happy with it, its super nice and the guy was almost giving it away. I got lucky getting to it first, he had 10 more emails before me, but I lived just down the street The guy diddnt know any history. It was given to his wife last summer, and they decided they diddnt need it after all. But its really clean, with lots of new looking parts under the hood. No oil leaks, either. And new tires! 5 speed! 175k miles, but it runs and drives -great-. California car, too, not a speck of rust anywhere. Anyway, Ive got a few questions... The clutch is really high up on the pedal. It doesnt really feel like its slipping, but.. its really really high. Is this adjustable, or should i start thinking replacement? Id like to try it myself, too. Ive done brakes and struts and did a PCV service on a volvo 850.. would i be over my head if i tried this? CV joints. The PO told me the smog guy said it had bad ones. I do get some weird lurching on really tight parking turns.. seemingly not all the time, though. Im fine with just doing both of them, Im mostly just wondering if there were any brands to avoid? Any suggestions on dealing with CVs? Under heavy breaking, theres a weird thumping coming from the back somewhere. Never notice anything during normal breaking, just if I really mash on it. Which is a little too often so far, im still used to driving a mini cooper jcw Id like to get a better feel from the shifter. Its not bad, just very non sporty. Are there shifter kits for this guy that are worthwhile? Are there any other subaru high mileage things i should be on the lookout for? Thanks!!
|
|
#
¿
Jan 23, 2014 06:47
|
|
|
DJ Commie posted:Replying! Sure! What are you looking to get for them? Also, do you still have the OBS? I could maybe use a few parts..
|
|
#
¿
Jan 29, 2014 06:04
|
|
|
Oh man, so after getting both axles done on my 99 impreza 5mt, Ive come to the conclusion that I also need a new viscous coupling. 4x4 like herking and jerking on hard left or right turns.. seems like the pretty typical symptom of a bad vc. Whats my best course of action here? Id really like to find a used one and have a garage install it. Id love to do it myself, but dont really have the space to do it in. Plus im lazy. Anyone know where I could find a good used unit outside san francisco?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 7, 2014 04:02
|
|
|
Hey, does anyone know where I could get a good viscous coupling for a 99 impreza outback mt? Mine is shot, and I need it replaced. I have a garage that can do it, but its a 600$ part from the dealer. Plus about 400 bucks to put it in.. im trying to keep the price low. Ive been hoping to find a new one cheaper elsewhere, but cant find a new one for sale at all. And I cant find anyone with a used one. Anyone have any leads?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 24, 2014 18:34
|
|
|
dayman posted:Best bet is to roll the dice at a pick and pull lot. Sometimes they'll pull the part for you but I know a lot of those places have a policy of only selling transmissions as complete units. Also, it really isn't that bad to install yourself. Remove the drive shaft, unbolt the back of the transfer case, pull out the old one, shove in the new one, some RTV and slap the whole thing back together. Im hesitant to try it myself.. I dont really have a good place to work on it. Ill try NASIOC though.. thanks!
|
|
#
¿
Mar 24, 2014 18:54
|
|
|
dayman posted:If you're dead set against doing it yourself, make sure the garage of your choice will accept customer sourced parts. Lots of them won't or they'll make you waive all rights to warranty on their work. Thanks for the offer, but im in california And yeah, im in an apartment complex. I think I may actually have a spot i can do it at work, so if I can find the part Ill try it. Now to just find the part..
|
|
#
¿
Mar 25, 2014 01:35
|
|
|
What years can I pull a viscous coupling from to fit my 99 impreza? Ive got a guy asking me if the center diff from an 02-04 wrx will fit. I think it will, is that correct?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 25, 2014 05:21
|
|
|
So i made the mistake of driving a bugeye WRX, and now i have to own a bugeye WRX. Ive got my eye on this guy.. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/4414090684.html any thoughts? I was looking to find a stock one, but this one has pretty much everything id want to do already done. And it all seems clean and responsibly done. Ive emailed back and forth with the seller, and all the regular maintenance is done, so it could be alright. Plus he sounds like a pretty normal guy. Ive driven a few other WRXs, but no modded ones. Anything specific I should watch out for? hedgegnome fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Apr 15, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Apr 15, 2014 01:09
|
|
|
Holy crap! I bought a WRX! Im very pleased. 2002 bugeye, 180k, new clutch, engine rebuilt 20k ago, drives awesome, stack of maintenance reciepts, 2nd owner, owned for 10 years and only selling cause his wife hates it and they got a rav4. I feel pretty positive about it. Its a little dented here and there, just door dings mostly. And it could really use a good detail. But overall, its really pretty great! Also, im pretty sure i stole it. He was asking a very, very reasonable price. He listed it last night. I got lucky and was the first of 4 more people scheduled to look at it today SO! My first question about it. Ive got an accessport, an old one that I used with my 04 Forester XT. There isnt any way to use that on this, is there? And proof it happened..  ill take better pictures this weekend
hedgegnome fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Apr 19, 2014 |
|
#
¿
Apr 19, 2014 02:51
|
|
|
Hey, so i have a chance to buy a Miltek turbo back (this one.. http://www.mann-engineering.com/products/milltek-sport-hi-power-turboback-exhaust-2002-2007-impreza-wrxsti) for very, very cheap. Used of course. Does anyone here have any experience with Miltek? Im also wondering how loud this would be..
|
|
#
¿
May 25, 2014 23:50
|
|
|
Okay, first problem! I bought an 02 WRX about 4 months ago. Its been running great, no problems, until today. On the way home the check engine light comes on. I check it with my accessport and get a P0031 code. Looks like its the O2 sensor going bad. But Im also having some pretty strong hesitation issues. It idles fine, but try and accelerate and it bucks and jerks untill it gets over 4k or so then smooths out. I plan on just getting a new O2 sensor, its most likely original and Ive got 180k miles on it, so why not. I also put a TBE on it about a month ago, dont know if that would make a difference. I need to use the car for the next few days, too. Will it be alright to drive as long as Im easy on it? And could there be another issue causing the roughness, or is it most likely the O2?
|
|
#
¿
Jul 13, 2014 03:06
|
|
|
Hey, so ive got this wrx..  Its great! I super love it. Its dented and a bit banged up from city life and 190k worth of adventures, but it was cheap and runs great. Ive put a miltek 3" turbo back on it, and am using an accessport with a cobb stage 2 map. Everything else is stock. Only problems I have are some minor hesitation hiccups below 3k rpm. Never too bad, though, but its annoying. Ive been doing some datalogs, but still kind of suck at reading them. Id really like to know whats causing the hesitation. And itd also be pretty nice to know my engine isnt gonna pop. It had a rebuild about 30k ago, and is pretty well maintained. But I do want to start replacing things, as needed. There is still some old rubber and so on in there, starting with vacuum lines. Would anyone mind checking out my most recent log? http://i59.tinypic.com/20jscqp.png Im mostly worried about the DAM. Shouldnt it be at 16? Or is it okay where it is at 13, as long as it isnt changing? Any other indications of impending doom i should be aware of??
|
|
#
¿
Oct 28, 2014 02:46
|
|
|
Amandyke posted:DAM below 16 means that the ECU is seeing some real knock events and is pulling timing/increasing fuel to compensate. While not a serious issue, it does point to things not being as they should be. Do you have any longer data logs that show typical driving? You mentioned hesitation while under 3k, could you log what makes that happen and post a link to the log file? I have a few others, but theyre short as well. Ill do one tomorrow, how long should i record one for?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 29, 2014 05:56
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 11:54 |
|
|
Amandyke posted:DAM below 16 means that the ECU is seeing some real knock events and is pulling timing/increasing fuel to compensate. While not a serious issue, it does point to things not being as they should be. Do you have any longer data logs that show typical driving? You mentioned hesitation while under 3k, could you log what makes that happen and post a link to the log file? Heres one i took the other day, just driving around. The hesitation is kind of hard to replicate, i never quite know when its going to do it. Now the DAM is just 5  ?https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1z8-hemPbfPJ12YtQVYdDdaQ0jOBxsl8iQchz7500YSM/edit?usp=sharing
|
|
#
¿
Nov 4, 2014 03:32
|
|