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blk
Dec 19, 2009
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Please don't kill me if this is earlier in the thread, I couldn't find it.

I heard earlier that the next WRX was going to be separated from the Impreza platform. Then I read today on Autoblog that only the STI will be separated, and that the regular WRX and Impreza will share. Does anyone know what the real case is?

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blk
Dec 19, 2009
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I'm trying to figure out if the WRX has been the best selling Japanese performance car in America in the past decade. Does anybody know if this is true, or does that crown go to the S2000, Z, G, RX8 or IS?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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According to saab92x.com, 235 06 Aeros w/ 5 MT were made. Here's mine that I bought two weeks ago (messy from long drive home):



Almost due for 60k. I have very limited mechanical experience, not many tools other than a socket set, and no driveway (I borrow the one pictured when I need to do something). What parts of the 60k would you recommend I DIY?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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Congrats fellow 06 Aero buddy!



63k and the first time she's seen snow (previous life was in Phoenix and the Bay). The Hankook Ventus V12 Evos that came with her were fine, but not optimal. I'm not sure if I want to do snow tires (I'm only in it 0-7 days/year), or if I should just switch to something more all-weather (something really good in the wet, I do see a lot of rain). Any recommendations?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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nm posted:

Here's the question: How cold does it get, for how long? Or where are you?

Lots of rainfall, rarely below freezing (western Oregon).

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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DreamOn13 posted:

I did the timing belt today. I was a little nervous but it's actually pretty drat easy and I didn't run into any issues. I thought I did it wrong 3 times though after lining it up perfect since the lines on the belt would never line back up again after hand cranking it. Turns out that they shouldn't unless you rotate it 281 times or something. :doh: So I basically lined up the marks 3 times in a row then took the belt off and redid it until it was perfect again. Then read that it won't line back up with the belt on the internet and felt pretty dumb. :downs:

Noticed in the other thread that you did water pump and thermostat as well - what mileage are you at?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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Cross post from stupid questions:

2006 Saab 9-2x Aero ( = WRX)

When I start the car after it's been sitting in cold (30-50 F), I hear a bit of squeaking under the hood, like a slippery belt. The steering wheel shakes a bit and pushes back against turns for the first minute. After that first minute, the steering responds normally and the sound goes away, except when I turn the wheel full lock in either direction.

Here is video, you'll need to turn it up: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PwMpWBUptXI

Ideas on what's going on?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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Viggen posted:

I've never met a 9-2x owner who could change their own oil. Just sayin'.

I can change oil, thanks, although I haven't done it on this car yet, and I have little mechanical experience otherwise.

Not losing fluid, haven't tried ATF, belt feels tight. Maybe I should try replacing it anyways.

jamal posted:

Sounds like the belt. And the Subaru pumps themselves don't fail that often, what happens is that the hose from the reservoir gets old and lets some air into the system. This makes your steering pump make a whining/groaning noise and eventually the air will damage the pump.

Anyway to tell if there's air in the system besides seeing foaminess in the reservoir?

blk fucked around with this message at 22:27 on Jan 9, 2013

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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Has anyone noticed wind noise coming specifically from the front door handle/lock area in their Impreza? I had to have a my driver's side door replaced and the wind noise is a lot higher than I remember. It seems to be coming from around the door handle/lock area, or where the b-pillar, glass and door all meet. The shop put new stripping on the replacement door but not on the body side, I don't think, so it could be that.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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Was the Forester XT ever offered with a manual? I was just reading that the new one is CVT only.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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Autoblog reviews the new Forester XT with CVT: http://www.autoblog.com/2013/01/25/2014-subaru-forester-xt-first-drive-review/#continued :suicide:

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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Larrymer posted:

Thinking about suspension stuff for my 06 Saabaru. For a DD, would I really not want the subframe lockdown stuff or ALK? I really only want the car to corner a bit flatter and don't want to lower it really. I was thinking a RSB, possibly a front and a nice set of wheels/tires. Do the other things mentioned really make that much difference for a car I DD? I like everything is does now except the body roll, fyi.

I've been thinking about the same thing my 06 Saabaru. We should compare notes. Which bars are you looking at?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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Looking for some more advice on swaybars for my 06 Saabaru (WRX wagon). Stock bars are 20 front / 17 back. The most repeated recommendation I've seen is to just replace the front bar with a 25mm as it would help eliminate some understeer. Does that make sense to you guys, or do you think I should do rear (or both) instead?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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Cat Terrist posted:

If someone is seriously saying to reduce understeer by increasing front bar, smash them in the face with a cricket bat. They have zero clue and / or been sucked into that camber curves bullshit. Even if the camber curves nonsense is slightly true, what you have done is reduce front end grip and in fact increased understeer. Wrong idea -and frsnkly if there is a problem, why not fix the issue rather than a badly thought out bandaid?

Castor. Lots of it. No denying a WRX lacks both front castor and camber, so you hit it with a ALK or the castor plates mod. Doing a rear bar will reduce rear grip and reduce apparent understeer if you dont feel like doing either of that.

By the way, the white car we have has the same bars and it's not a particular issue in understeer. My advice is to do a driving course and you'll see that the "understeer" is actually quite useful in getting about 20kph a corner faster out of it.

Thanks. I should have clarified in my post that eliminating roll is my primary intention. Reducing understeer would be a possible bonus. I'm guessing I should start with a 22 rear and see how it goes. I haven't tracked it yet but that will happen in the next couple of months, so I'll have a better idea of what I'd like to change.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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jamal posted:


As for your car blk, I'd definitely recommend a 22mm adjustable rear bar. It goes very well with a 20mm stock front on the soft setting, and very well with a 22mm front on the hard setting. For your average fun to drive Subaru, 22mm bars, a little more spring (such as stock sti rates), and a good alignment are almost all you need (and good shocks don't hurt). If you're tracking the car, my suggestions do change a little.

Thanks - is there a recommended manufacturer/vendor?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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What synthetic oil do you guys recommend for a 2006 WRX? I was going to use Mobil 1 5w30 since Costco has it for cheap, but was warned away from that in the stupid questions thread.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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Pulled up to a four way stop today. Me in the Saabaru, and a loving WRX at every other line - one each of the squircle-lights, hawkeye, and 2008 or 2009. loving PacNW.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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http://www.autoblog.com/photos/2015-subaru-wrx-spy-shots/

From what I've seen of the concept, I really think it should have square exhaust outlets, but whatevs

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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So I had to have a door replaced after someone hit the Saabaru while parked, and now I get wind noise where I didn't get it before because a little bit of stripping isn't lining up (I've tried padding it underneath, window adjustments, etc). I'm trying to get the piece paid for by my insurance company but might have to do it myself. I can't seem to find it online - it's the plastic molding/weather stripping on the chassis that the windows press into when doors are closed. It runs up from the mirror, down the b-pillar about halfway, then back up the b pillar on the rear door and back down, all one big piece. I can take a pic if it'd help - any suggestions on where to find or what the part number could be?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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X post from stupid questions:

I thought the previous (first) owner of my WRX had been running synthetic, but it turns out it might've been dino. I got the car right before it's 60k, had the 60k done, and am now due for my first change. I think they used dino at the dealer on the 60k (the part number was just SOA635000). Should I switch to synthetic at this point, or no?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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The Saabaru is driving me nuts. Had door replaced after someone hit it while parked. Made wind noise afterwards at freeway speeds here:



Went back to body shop, had window adjusted. Didn't fix it. Had weather stripping on chassis side replaced today. Didn't fix it.

I'm hoping it's the weather stripping on the door side, but if it's not, I'm guessing the used door they chose as a replacement is hosed somehow.

They keep telling me they don't hear the noise. I have good hearing, but not great, and it's pretty evident to me. I'm going to sound like the perfectionist customer from hell. I wish I had chosen a body shop with staff that can hear.

Edit: here's audio of the noise, you have to turn your volume way up to hear it (crackling noise)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pJmZJqMU5gY

blk fucked around with this message at 03:06 on May 7, 2013

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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nm posted:

Frameless? If you push on the window, how much does it move? If it is any more that very little, there is a clip in there that needs to be replaced. Had something similar on my pass side.

Frameless. Window doesn't really move.

However, I measured the panel gap on the original passenger door and the replacement driver door. The replacement door somehow has 7 mm gap between it and the B pillar. The passenger door only has 5.

I'm wondering if they used a Subaru door and if it isn't exactly the same size as the Saabaru door.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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Such good taste in cars, such bad taste in beer.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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Could someone with a GD or GG Impreza do me a favor and measure the panel gap between their driver side doors? The spot where I have 8mm indicated here:

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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azflyboy posted:

The noise might actually be coming from the gusset inside the side mirror mount being loose.

Try rolling the affected window down (I assume this is a front door), and squeeze both sides of the triangular piece the side mirror mounts onto together with a vice grip or something. Leave the pressure on the part for about 10 seconds, then release it and roll the window back up.

My Forester had the exact same problem, and clamping the mirror mount completely eliminated the noise.

I'm hearing the noise near the B pillar, though, not the A pillar - is that where you heard it?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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Do new Subarus still have frameless doors?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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I didn't know these existed



One near me with 136k miles, asking 4900.

Anything objectively good about them in this day and age, or are they just interesting as a piece of history for brand enthusiasts?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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New WRX on Mulholland: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AWRUVtlxQic

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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It's my first anniversary with my Saabaru! I never knew having a fun car would be so...fun.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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Rear rotor and pads are looking thin on the Saabaru, fronts are getting there. Subaru dealership wanted $600 bucks to turn the rotors and slap on new pads. I've never done brakes before but would like to try and do this myself to save some money.

I'm an aggressive driver and haven't tracked this car yet but might do so in the near future. Are Cryostop/Centric still the recommended rotor choice? Any good pads that are less dusty than Hawk HPS?

Any documentation for noobs like myself would also be appreciated.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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At risk of turning this into the stupid question thread:

Do I need the Centric "hardware kits" for front and rear:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C01OX0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1XY2LVHE4IHUW ?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C02SLM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER ?

Just had brake fluid changed 9 months ago on my 60k. Should I change it again when putting in new rotors and pads?

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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pacnw.jpg

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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Sedan vs wagon: sedan may be stiffer but I haven't seen measurements.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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Internet Explorer posted:

Thanks for the advice. I'm glad to hear you had a good experience as far as reliability goes, as reading a good amount of this thread made that my primary worry. I will definitely test drive all of the cars I've mentioned.

Just to chime in that most Subarus have ridiculously few issues until you start to gently caress with them, exception maaaaaaaybe being the 04-09 Legacy GT/Outback XT. I've had zero issues with my 06 Saabaru Aero (WRX), and I hear the same story from all the other WRX owners I know. It's a solid package and hard to beat for the buck. It's like a dog you find in the street: cheap, ugly and noisy but dead loyal and always ready to play.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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The Prius discussion led my wife and I to talk more about replacing her Civic. I'm thinking of keeping my eyes open for a LGT wagon, FXT, or OXT - preferably with a 5MT where available, but we'd consider an automatic. I know the LGT has quite a few issues, and got this list from the LGT forums:

Engine:

-- 2.5L turbo piston ring land failures
-- Late-08/early-09 bearing failures (this was a stop-sale recall item, and usually happened at pretty low mileages)
-- 07-08? intake manifold gaskets can leak, causing rough idle
-- Bearings may fail if turbo fails and engine is run with contaminated oil

Turbo/intake/exhaust:

-- VF40 turbo (05-06) is a common failure point
-- Both VF40 (05-06) and VF46 (07-09) can fail due to clogged banjo bolt filter and/or stuck oil control valve (OCV)
-- 05-06 catted up-pipe cat can break up and destroy turbo
-- Stock TMIC end tanks can separate at greater-than-stock boost levels
-- Turbo inlet tears easily when working around turbo, so may need to be replaced

-- Transmission/driveline/suspension:

-- 5MT can be notchy and stiff when cold
-- 5MT 5th gear can break; other problems with 5MT on occasion
-- 5MT and 6MT transfer shaft bearings (the new bearings use a revised design)
-- 5EAT often cannot handle power levels significantly above stock
-- Rear wheel bearings (extended warranty up to 100k mi on 05 and early 06)
-- Front right axle boots can fail due to heat from turbo/exhaust
-- LCA and sway bar bushings wear out

Other:

-- Driver's window switch sticks (occurs mainly on 05s, but may become an issue on other years as the cars accumulate miles)
-- Headlight bulbs fail early and often

Anything I'm missing here? I assume most of these apply to the OXT as well. What's your guys take on the LGT - I get the impression that it can get real expensive to own. I don't really know anything about Foresters or the FXT, and would appreciate input there as well.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/cto/4069735264.html

Someone stop me.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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si posted:

Have the turbo checked and find out if it's the original.

Find out of the throw out bearing has been replaced.

Both of these things were known to fail spectacularly around 50-60k on the 2005s.

Yeah, part of me is wondering if it's a nightmare waiting to happen, and if it'd be worth it considering that I already have the Saabaru. I'm guessing it would be close, but never quite as fun to drive, with a lot more hassles.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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Larrymer posted:

Speaking of Saabarus...

I'm selling my 2006 Saab 9-2x Aero 5 speed manual. Very rare car, 1 of 235. :smith:

$11k OBO

http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/cto/4073861924.html

Sup 06 Aero 5MT buddy. You might want to post it on the 92x board if you haven't already.

I don't suppose anyone here is in SoCal and interested in looking at that LGT for me?

blk fucked around with this message at 22:39 on Sep 17, 2013

blk
Dec 19, 2009
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Maybe in the stupid question thread, but what do you guys think my 06 9-2x Aero 5mt is worth on the market? Very good condition, HIDs, leather, OEM 17s (all options except sunroof, basically), 69k miles. KBB says 12ish but I'm seeing worse ones for similar or higher. I have to inventory all my assets for something; not planning on selling anytime soon.

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blk
Dec 19, 2009
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Radbot posted:

Is there any reason not to go for an Impreza or Legacy sedan over a Corolla or Civic? Most of the Subaru offers are on MT models which makes it difficult to compare, but in my area (Denver) the Civic/Corolla/Impreza all seem to be about the same price. Of course, the Subarus have AWD which is a big benefit here. Is there a reason not to opt for the Subaru models?

You'll sacrifice some fuel economy in the Impreza. I'm guessing Denver's used market is similar to here in the PacNW, where Honda/Toyota/Subaru all hold their value well, but Subarus particularly well.

I think the new Impreza is better looking than the current Corolla and Civic.

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