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Hello Subaru friends, I recently got a WRX and it's my first turbo car. I read about letting turbos wind and cool down before turning the car off. Do I still have to worry about that or is it no longer a thing thanks to technology?
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# ¿ Jun 30, 2016 15:32 |
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# ¿ Apr 28, 2024 21:50 |
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Cool, that's about what I figured but wanted to be sure. Thank you thread.
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# ¿ Jun 30, 2016 18:57 |
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Had the first chance to drive my WRX hard yesterday and this car is better than I am. e: Here's another question. Is it worth getting an additional steering wheel cover if I tend to have sweaty palms? I don't want to ruin the leather on the steering wheel.
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# ¿ Jul 11, 2016 01:44 |
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My friend who has a BRZ swears by Motul for oil changes. What does this thread like using?
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# ¿ Jul 14, 2016 04:59 |
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OK I can finally vent about the radio. How is it that a non American company ships a car who's radio does not display non-Latin characters? For example if a track has Japanese or Chinese in the title it just shows the name as blank. Also the shuffle functionality isn't very good. If you hit next while shuffle is on in the folder you're listening to, instead of picking another random song it just plays the next track in the folder bypassing shuffle entirely.
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# ¿ Jul 17, 2016 14:27 |
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The best I've gotten in my 17 WRX has been 32 mpg average on the highway and I was excited seeing that.
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# ¿ Jul 29, 2016 20:40 |
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I have a '17 WRX sedan and wish it was a hatch occasionally.
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# ¿ Aug 10, 2016 02:05 |
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Great morning so far, noticed a strange thunk coming from my tires all of a sudden and was able to find a big screw lodged in to my rear drivers side tire. These tires are fairy new, only around 2k miles on them. Would I be able to take it to a tire shop to get patched up or is this where I have to consider AWD and replace the tire/all tires? It's right down the middle so it's nowhere near the sidewall.
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# ¿ Aug 30, 2016 13:31 |
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Thanks all. Got a patch at a local shop and everything seems good to go for now.
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# ¿ Aug 30, 2016 19:01 |
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Recently I've noticed a bit of a chirp when taking my foot off the clutch of my '17 WRX when getting out of my driveway in the mornings. It goes away after a few blocks but I believe it's something recent. Does this sound normal or something I should take to the dealership to get checked out? My initial reaction is that it's normal but I figured I'd get more peoples opinion on this.
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# ¿ Nov 14, 2016 21:08 |
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um excuse me posted:This is the Tumble Generator Valve (TGV). It is a half of a butterfly valve in the intake just before the ports that closes when the engine is sufficiently cold to create turbulence in the intake so it will mix fuel better during fuel injection. It's a US only emissions device. That makes sense for it going away once it warmed up. Thanks for that info.
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# ¿ Nov 15, 2016 15:44 |
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daslog posted:Photos from a 2016 WRX with the FA engine that my son got today. Apparantly this is due to the design of the the PCV and how it works with direct injection. Assuming the previous owner didn't do stupid stuff (which is a huge assumption with a WRX) what would be a cause for that kind of buildup? Bad fuel or just general Subaru engine bad design?
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# ¿ Feb 6, 2017 22:54 |
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jamal posted:The PCV system pulls slight vacuum on the crankcase and recirculates gasses (a mixture of air, oil, water, fuel, combustion products) into the intake to be burned. Without a fuel injector spraying the ports and intake valves, that gunk will eventually build up. It happens to like every DI engine, I've seen some low mileage BMWs that were especially bad. Ultimately for long term life of the engine I'm looking at either pulling the engine apart to clean it after a while or getting an air/oil separator?
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# ¿ Feb 6, 2017 23:29 |
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jamal posted:On BMWs they pull the intake manifold and use walnut shell blasting to clean them. I'm guessing subaru will come out with a similar procedure at some point. I actually came across this NASIOC thread where someone did some walnut blasting. heh https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2756556
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# ¿ Feb 7, 2017 00:40 |
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Something that was mentioned to me as another option would be to switch to an e85 tune. I'm not as knowledgeable as most people in the thread but that doesn't sound like it would fix this specific issue.
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# ¿ Feb 7, 2017 02:44 |
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pctD posted:Honestly just get an AOS if you're worried about it. I got mine installed for less than $500 parts/labor. Well worth the peace of mind and it absolutely smooths out the power delivery. This is probably the route I'll end up going also. I was definitely educated so thanks again thread! Water injection would also work for me since I live in South Florida and have 0 concern for it freezing. I'll price both options out though and see what's best. net work error fucked around with this message at 13:34 on Feb 7, 2017 |
# ¿ Feb 7, 2017 13:24 |
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It looks like the CCV hose ends were changed on the 2017 WRX and instead of being a regular clip it's a new connector. Anyone know how to remove it? The one thread I found on NASIOC didn't provide much info other than turn it right.
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# ¿ Mar 5, 2017 00:07 |
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jamal posted:Can you post a picture of these things? I've heard about this but haven't seen it. I ran out of daylight so I put everything back. Couldn't get that hose off so thankfully I didn't have much to put back. The thread from NASIOC had a diagram: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2797610 Here's a quick picture I took of it. You can kind of see it there it's the black part that's kind of stripped now. http://i.imgur.com/p9G5xylh.jpg net work error fucked around with this message at 01:43 on Mar 5, 2017 |
# ¿ Mar 5, 2017 01:20 |
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jamal posted:Huh. Looks kind of like an EFI connection, I wonder if there is some sort of a tool to get it off. Seems like the best way is to leave that on and pull off the hose? I tried that initially but the hose has a metal ring on it that keeps it on there tight enough that yanking it isn't enough.
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# ¿ Mar 5, 2017 20:52 |
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jamal posted:You could maybe just unbolt that whole plastic thing from the block, then be able to work on it on a bench? That hose is going to have to come off of there, I would probably remove the block and the cut all the way around next to the band clamp. I considered removing the hose next to it but wasn't sure if that would cause a big spill or not. It's tough to tell from that image but I believe it as running from the base there to the engine itself.
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# ¿ Mar 6, 2017 20:39 |
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I emailed Crawford about the troubles I've had removing the CCV hose on my WRX for the AOS install and here's their advice.quote:Hello there, that new connection is glued together at the factory then snapped onto the tube for the hose in our kit. The easy way to get it apart is to take a pair of pliers and squeeze it on its largest diameter, it will snap and fall apart instantly so you can remove the loose components. Guess I'll just try squeezing it really hard this weekend and seeing if that works.
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# ¿ Mar 10, 2017 01:26 |
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jamal posted:I think what he means is just hard enough to break the adhesive bond. Although I would have expected the hose to go after that fitting. Sorry I could not be more helpful with this. Wrapped up the install today. I was able to get the hose off following Crawford's instructions and giving the connector a big squeeze. The rest of the install went about as expected. Only issue after the install was the coolant hoses not being on enough so there was a small leak. I think I got it resolved and everything seems alright after a test drive. Thanks for your help and dealing with my constant questions jamal and everyone.
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# ¿ Mar 12, 2017 02:03 |
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jamal posted:Cool. After you drive around a bit and get the car up to temp and then cooled back down make sure the coolant is full at the upper tank. I refilled the coolant earlier and went for a longer drive and no coolant lost. Going to check again tomorrow morning to see if anything else might have leaked.
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# ¿ Mar 12, 2017 03:49 |
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net work error posted:I refilled the coolant earlier and went for a longer drive and no coolant lost. Going to check again tomorrow morning to see if anything else might have leaked. After a short drive this morning I saw the coolant level drop again. I didn't see any leaks from the oil cooler section so the only other place that I can't easily inspect are the hoses under the intercooler but those shouldn't have to deal with coolant right? Also a side note is that the Crawford install PDF and the image have the coolant lines reversed with the oil cooler line going to the right bottom tube instead of the left. E: The reason I thought the coolant was low was because it read as low before I turned the car on. I saw that and added some back to the full line then went for another drive. After getting the engine to temperature the level had risen to way past the full line in the resivoir tank. Was it a mistake on my part to read the level when the engine was cold? net work error fucked around with this message at 05:54 on Mar 13, 2017 |
# ¿ Mar 13, 2017 04:43 |
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jamal posted:Water in the overflow just needs to generally be between the lines. You did add coolant to the radiator and not just the overflow, right? I notice there's no upper tank on the 15, which makes sense because of the turbo location. I'd guess that will make bleeding all the air a little harder. If you can, park up an incline, let the car cool down, and then check the radiator itself. I was adding to the overflow so I've learned not to do that. In the end it was just my natural overreaction and not understanding that the coolant level rises when the engine heats up and vice versa. I've learned a few things from this install so that's pretty cool too.
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# ¿ Mar 13, 2017 22:08 |
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Imperador do Brasil posted:I have mine installed per the photo on the PDF. Is that not the right way? I was under the impression that by left they meant the left of the car... Here's what Crawford had to say (long story short it doesn't matter for the coolant hoses. quote:You can connect the coolant lines which ever way looks the best to you as it will function exactly the same. At this point it's all about aesthetics.
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# ¿ Mar 13, 2017 22:29 |
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My first manual car was the WRX I bought without knowing how to drive it. It's an ok plan if you have a friend who can drive it for you and has lots of patience.
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# ¿ Mar 22, 2017 00:44 |
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For an FA20DIT that sees mostly cruising with the occasional autocross and track day would I be best served going with Motul 8100 or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum? NASIOC seems to be pretty big on the Pennzoil but my guess is due to it being much easier to get compared to Motul. I'll likely be going Motul for transmission and rear diff not that it matters in this case.
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# ¿ Mar 22, 2017 17:06 |
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Is the stock WRX transmission and diff fluid good enough to survive a few track days?
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# ¿ Mar 29, 2017 21:10 |
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Is the front brake pad style of the 2015-2017 WRX shared with any previous generation WRX or other Subaru? e: Some more digging gave me this info: 316x30mm 05-09 Legacy GT 14+ Outback Tribeca (5x114.3 bolt pattern) net work error fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Mar 31, 2017 |
# ¿ Mar 31, 2017 19:09 |
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jamal posted:I can guess where you found that. That's for the HPS Street so for the HPS Race it would be HB432R.661 if I have it correct?
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# ¿ Mar 31, 2017 21:10 |
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daslog posted:Some pictures of my 2004 WRX at the last rallycross. I'm happy to say that it's a finished project. (except maybe for a light bar and some LEDs) It looks so happy in it's natural habitat.
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# ¿ Apr 25, 2017 03:52 |
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They should just sell one based off what they run in Super GT which is a BRZ which they shoved a WRC boosted to hell EJ in and threw on a huge wing. e: Alternatively they could just electic the whole lineup. http://www.detroitnews.com/story/business/autos/foreign/2017/05/23/subaru-electric-lineup/102073816/ net work error fucked around with this message at 15:06 on May 24, 2017 |
# ¿ May 24, 2017 14:11 |
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Looking to install some Speed Bleeders on my '17 WRX. From what I can tell it should be the SB1010. Are the other options from Dorman or Russell worth looking at?
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# ¿ Jun 3, 2017 16:37 |
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Given how poo poo the FA series is turning out to be (plastic rods for starters) that's not something I am looking forward to. Posts like this and NASIOC always make me feel like my car is on the verge of death at all times. Maybe I'm just overreacting? It's a weekend car with the occasional autocross and track day. Although most of the NASIOC cars are tuned and modded and mine is stock save for the AOS.
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# ¿ Jun 13, 2017 13:59 |
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What is a good fun new car in a similar price range to have since the FA bad?
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# ¿ Jun 14, 2017 20:35 |
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Recently on my 17 WRX when I'm idling at a stoplight sometimes when it rocks back and forth doing its boxer thing the engine kind of skips a bit and chokes. It never actually turns off. Is that a normal boxer thing or something I should get checked out? No warning lights or anything and it's only for a moment and not constant. No mods other than an air/oil separator.
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# ¿ Jul 17, 2017 21:06 |
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nm posted:My car did this when it had a crack in the block that mimicked a headgasket failure. What's the best way to check for both? I feel like a vacuum leak is more likely in my case.
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# ¿ Jul 19, 2017 10:31 |
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dk2m posted:I have a 16 WRX that does the same thing, where the RPMs just drop, it shudders, and then it idles normally again within the span of a second or 2. It has since day one and it's sitting at 40K miles now, but I never really tried to figure out why. Anecdotally, I know someone else with a 15 WRX where this same thing happens. I agree on the warranty part. But if it seems to be common for the model year then I can rest easy I think.
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# ¿ Jul 19, 2017 14:11 |
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# ¿ Apr 28, 2024 21:50 |
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Florida highways (when they're empty) are great for mpg's if you are willing to not go fast.
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# ¿ Aug 2, 2017 14:41 |