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Hello fellow subie enthusiasts, first time poster, drive- 05 obp sti (not factory), worked as a tech for two years for subie/vw. will post pics when not at work.
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Mar 18, 2014 23:08
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Yakattak posted:Speaking of strut chat. I've been looking into struts and springs. I couldn't find any on your site Jamal but I'm open to suggestions. Honestly , depending on what you want to do a rebuild with custom internals to match your springs would be the best approach. That way you have no fitment issues, easy install, cheaper price, and comparable performance. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2282535
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Mar 20, 2014 17:24
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pctD posted:Does anyone have any words on air oil separators/catch cans? Do they actually provide a meaningful benefit? In my opinion they should factory installed . If you are staying relatively stock and not pushing a ton of psi then an air oil separator will work fine (grimmspeed makes a very good version), if you are going with a significant increase in boost a catch can/air oil separator would be a better bet (i prefer the beatrush catch can [Laille if you are a eurogoon])
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Jun 8, 2015 19:56
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blk posted:Bloomberg on Subaru's recent success: http://www.bloomberg.com/news/features/2015-06-08/subaru-sells-out-will-one-of-the-fastest-growing-carmakers-decide-to-stay-small-  I still remember my first subie,85 gl wagon people had no idea what it was and would ask me all kinds of questions about it back then. Best memory i had in it was towing a 95 jeep grand cherokee out of a snow bank that i had just gone up.
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Jun 9, 2015 16:47
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Nur_Neerg posted:Out of curiosity, how much should a clutch replacement on an '04 WRX hatch run, generally speaking? Mine hasn't been feeling great, thinking it's a cause of a lot of the 'bucking' I get while shifting around or starting from a stop in 1st-2nd. The best way to test your clutch is put it in 3rd or 4th rev it up fairly high and drop the clutch, if it dies you are still pretty good if it slips you are not. I would assume a shop would charge you 5 or 6 hours plus parts. So where im from 110 an hour *6= 660 plus parts.
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Jun 10, 2015 00:19
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si posted:I feel like there is no possible way this can be good for your engine. i didnt say pin the throttle and get all four going, just like 3kish. tell me more about how subaru's own tech manuals are wrong, hell even vw trained its mechanics to test clutches this way.
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Jun 10, 2015 16:08
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Neptr posted:My FSM says to put the parking brake on and try to move the car forward - if the engine stalls the clutch is good. Kinda assumes the parking brake is working tho. I've also heard trying to start the car on a steep hill - if you can't get the clutch to engage it's no good. I am not familiar with your method but I guess it works on the same sort of principle. When i worked at a vw/subaru dealership its how the vw tech that had been wrenching longer than i had been alive taught me, and likewise the subaru guys did it too. You are right though the end goal is the same , force the clutch to slip or stall the car.
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Jun 10, 2015 17:33
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Based on your video, you should probably start left foot braking. That way, you can keep the turbo spinning and use more throttle with less understeer. This, Also matching your rear sway bar to the front (size wise) and getting solid end links will help in making an oversteer condition occur.
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Jun 10, 2015 18:47
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Slow is Fast posted:valve cover gaskets? daslog posted:Or the turbo oil line. I have had tons of leaks there on my 04 wrx. Everything sort of puddles right there. Ya just move towards the top of the engine and look at where the "wet road grime" stops. But its likely one of these two.
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Jun 12, 2015 17:00
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So I think i have finally seen it all now, was working on an 05 forester xt (headgasket replacement) im getting ready to pull the motor so i open the throwout fork access plug , and grab my trusty battery tie down hook and try to thread it into rod that holds the fork in place and i'm having an insane amount of difficulty threading it in. Eventually after like 20 minutes i grab a flashlight and mirror and look in, whoever put it in last must have hit with A) the hammer of thor B) an impact hammer because the entire end is rounded off and the threaded hole is mushroomed. Took me 2 hours to get it out... e: invest in a set of dead blow hammers, it will save you a ton of headache Lord of Garbagemen fucked around with this message at 17:50 on Jun 15, 2015 |
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Jun 15, 2015 17:47
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daslog posted:You mean the cylindrical thing that holds the clutch fork on? it's not even screwed into anything. You just thread it so you can pull it out. Yes, and ya i don't even know how. I've never had any trouble getting em in, just a little grease and it goes in easy. jamal posted:You can release the clutch from the tob without pulling that pin btw. How? I cant really visualize how you would release the throwout bearing any other way. I pull the motors when i do head gaskets, its only an extra 30 or 40 minutes to do and working on an engine on a stand is just so much nicer.
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Jun 15, 2015 18:38
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jamal posted:Same way you'd take the tob off the pressure plate on a stand, just stick a long screwdriver or pick through the clutch fork hole. Remove the slave cylinder, pull the ring away from the pressure plate and pop the fork back. It's a little tricky the first few times but once you get the hang of it you'll never pull out the big pin again. jesus you must have the dexterity of a ninja.
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Jun 15, 2015 19:56
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si posted:It'll be fine, do as he says and stay out of boost. You won't have issues unless you get into areas where you're going to lean out/knock. pretty much this, tbh. The factory ecu can adjust things out much farther than most people assume, but ya just drive down to the tuner and stay reasonable. edit: also did you get one of those tbe that neck down to 2.5 at the downpipe and then go back to 3 in+ after the flange? Those seem pretty odd
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Jun 17, 2015 00:24
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Seat Safety Switch posted:If you're taking the muffler off already might as well put a glasspack on to replace it. and so the slippery slope of modifications begins
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Jun 17, 2015 16:14
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perabyte posted:Hey Jamal, Im not really sure about the 3.0's and head gasket issues. I know that idiot temp gauges are all very different in that they report changes in temp at a delayed rate. For example my 00' legacy is very delayed in reporting the actual temp changes (this is to prevent people from freaking out about normal fluctuation in temp). I would assume your 09 is similar in it delays in reporting actual temp. Again i know almost nothing about the 3.0's but i would at least get under the car and see if the gasket is failing externally as that would be a good indicator of failure.Hope this kinda helps. That or try and replicate that drive and get one of those IR temp guns and see what temp your block is.
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Jun 18, 2015 16:20
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so spent 4 hours yesterday helping a friend get his block back into a forester xt. End result still not in the car.... I have had some motors that were a pain to get in but this one simply does not want to catch on the dam input shaft and come together. Oh well there always is next weekend. Jamal got any tips on a stubborn motor install?
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Jun 22, 2015 16:39
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Slow is Fast posted:Jack up the transmission so that the motor mount studs clear the cross member. jamal posted:Make sure the input splines aren't mangled up and re-center the clutch plate. Sometimes the turbo catches on the trans bellhousing but I think I've only seen that with bigger aftermarket stuff. Starter can also get in the way sometimes. ya there was only two of us , maybe the third will help next weekend. Just never had one that was so stubborn.
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Jun 22, 2015 19:27
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nm posted:Wait, wait are you guys saying the EJ255/7 is unreliable? Don't listen to these jerks, they totally have bullet proof bottom ends.......
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Jun 23, 2015 16:46
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I'm tempted to buy that turd myself, even though it probably would not make it home. but $800 ,at that price he has got another 4 grand to make it what he wants.
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Jun 23, 2015 18:45
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si posted:Yeah, I mean - no matter what you do in this respect, your mileage sounds like it'll be about the same (your city will likely be better, more like 18-20). Instead you'll have a $3000 slow money burn with no amenities. my 00' legacy gt gets a straight 25 mpg (highway and city), my 05' sti gets 15-16. I think 18-20 is a tad low for a NA.
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Jun 23, 2015 19:47
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si posted:At 80? Not buying it. I can get a good 26-27mpg if I keep it between 65-70, but if you take it up 75+ that poo poo drops like a rock. I dunno, i don't really keep track. i would say more often than not the legacy hovers around 70-75 on the freeway.
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Jun 23, 2015 19:53
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si posted:Guess it also makes some sense, 00 Legacy auto or manual? I'm guessing the final drive would maybe push it up a few more mph. Still not gonna do it at 80+ though, just too far for the gearing in any older Subaru. Maybe some of the newer ones, CVT, etc. Auto, so i think it has the taller final drive ratio of the two.
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Jun 23, 2015 20:01
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bull3964 posted:BRZ gets 30+ MPG cruising at 80mph all day long the sti is low because im running a gtx3076r on it, its worth it though  bull3964 posted:Way back when my 2002 was new (and there was far less ethanol in fuel), I did manage to clock several 28mpg highway trips with it. Yep ethanol really fucks the older cars that aren't tuned for it. I remember when the legacy would get like 28 mpg when they switched gas in the summer time to the non ethanol mix.
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Jun 23, 2015 22:16
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Amazing what light weight, newer engine, and two fewer drive wheels will do.
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jonathan posted:Considering it likely won't need a head gasket. About that friend, with subbies (barring the 2.2t) always assume it needs a head gasket.
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Jun 24, 2015 06:13
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si posted:Given Subaru has already walked from motorsports for the most part, I don't think they care about any gauntlets. Ya like the posters above, subaru couldn't give a flying loving about Motorsports anymore. FFS they havent been in the WRC since 2008. The STi is grossly underpowered at this point and it seems like they will make no effort to really bring it up to date. Now excuse me while i hop in my real subaru ::grabs keys to bright orange xv with kayak on top::
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Jun 25, 2015 16:14
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si posted:Let's be honest though - 300whp/300wtq is not underpowered. People are weird about numbers on paper. The car in stock form is stupid fast, and the only thing holding it back in most cases is the driver. I race an EJ25 N/A, that had 165hp at its best time. It's still faster than I am, by quite a bit. sti isnt anywhere near 300whp or wtq its like 250. And ya 95% of the people who drive cars with alot of power don't need that much, or can utilize that much but i sure as poo poo am not looking to buy a "high performance" sti that has almost the same hp as a honda accord. edit: the 5.0 mustang has a lower msrp and almost 150 more flywheel hp. Lord of Garbagemen fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Jun 25, 2015 |
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Jun 25, 2015 17:16
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Slow is Fast posted:Vermont Sportscar does both sets of cars. the Redbull cars have more street parts than the rally cars. Lance Smith, the owner or president is a really cool guy. I met him by happenstance on a spectator stage at the Oregon trail rally, and then again at the Olympus rally. Dude just loves making poo poo go fast, fun to talk to.
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Jun 25, 2015 19:03
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nm posted:^^^^^^^^^^^ Lol the nasioc group think is still alive and kicking. Don't listen to this guy , the turbos can be just as reliable as the na motors.
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Jun 27, 2015 07:04
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So burned through a tank of gas, 2/3 was highway (at exactly 75) and 1/3 was putzing around town. i got 344.8 miles at the time my gas light came on, the refill was 14.1 gallons so i was around 24.5 mpg on the 2000 legacy gt (automatic). Also , i am need to replace all four dampeners as the rebound is pretty bad, going with kybs for the dampener. The question i have is, anyone know of a good set of springs for front and rear (this is a wagon), im not looking for any crazy drop , just something a little lower (1in or so) and the rears need to have a higher rate because of "wagon'. edit: can i run the sti pinks if i just use the sti or impreza top hats? https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/1939 , https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/1940. I would assume i would have to as those have the smaller top coil. Also, has anyone ever used that site i'm unfamiliar with it. Lord of Garbagemen fucked around with this message at 19:05 on Jun 29, 2015 |
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Jun 29, 2015 18:55
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http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/van/cto/5095838195.html This cant be real, and if it is real, gently caress the US and our stupid auto import laws.
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Jun 30, 2015 16:53
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Seat Safety Switch posted:What's not real about it? I've driven a handful of Type-RAs. They're magical little cars. 7900 is high for that in canada?!1!1!?!1 Canada must be a magical place full of type ras and s203s all over. If that was down here that would be double.
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Jun 30, 2015 17:38
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si posted:Just because people in the US are dumb with their money, doesn't mean Canada's prices are odd. I think its more of we cant get that car stateside. edit: also please stop raping my childhood dreams. Lord of Garbagemen fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Jun 30, 2015 |
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Jun 30, 2015 21:16
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Got back to work on the 05 forester xt, the engine went in like a dream this time. Couldnt get the clutch slave to build any pressure so spent the next 45 minutes bleeding it and the master. Im gonna have to adjust the clutch cable thing below the master cylinder also to get the clutch pedal to feel better i think. Got timing set and a bunch of the stuff the owner doesnt feel comfortable doing solo. All in all was a good 4 hours spent after work today.
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Jul 1, 2015 07:57
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jamal posted:Shouldn't have to adjust anything with the linkage. You bench bleed the MC? That's always worked well for me when I had a problem. Also the centric MCs are cheap and seem to work. No didn't bench just gravity bled the mc, and then used the clutch pedal to bleed out the rest of the lines and the slave. The only reason i think the linkage needs to be tightened up is its pretty loose and the clutch pedal feels like it engages too low (i like a high pedal, should probably ask if the owner does also). I guess they are two different issues, we did get the system to build pressure tho.
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Jul 1, 2015 08:48
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The Rat posted:Hello Subaru people. Have an issue I was hoping for some input on. Recently, my '05 Outback has had this strange issue where whenever I go up steep slopes for a while, a white smoke starts coming out from under the car, namely in the area just behind the front wheels. I had it checked out by a mechanic, who said that it was the rear seal to the transmission that leaked, which then dripped onto the exhaust and caused the smoke. I monitored the transmission fluid level for a while and it remained constant, so the leak can't have been that bad. generally blue is oil burning black is generally fuel white can be water vapor (or coolant if the smell is kind of a sweet smell) grey is tough it can be oil , or transmission oil in autos, If its under the front of the car check your hoses, see if your radiator fan is wet (this could indicate the radiator is leaking), check your overflow bottle for overflow. You could crawl under and inspect the heads where they meet the block look for any dampness or accumulation of wet debris.
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Jul 6, 2015 19:30
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So i have a question for jamal or bull. I am working on a ej255 turbo and doing a timing belt. every time i set timing and pull the tensioner pin roll it over get the crank back to tdc, check the marks and the drivers side cams are a like a a half tooth to a tooth retarded, if i hold the crank and turn the intake cam both of them set to the marks and every thing looks set. So i dug into this and it occurs when i pull the tensioner pin and rotate the tensioner it eats some slack and the cam doesn't move. I have set it like 3 times now all with the same results, and i haven't had this occur before on a suby t belt replacement. A) is the tensioner bad from the box? B) Is it the wrong part possibly? i would assume all ej255 turbos have the same tensioner C) The unlikely scenario, is this going to be ok? It seems like its just the tensioner messing with timing, maybe avcs adjusts this? D) If its not do i have to ignore the belt marks and just set the drivers intake cam and exhaust a tooth advanced and try to get it to pull back into time, after tension applied?
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Jul 19, 2015 06:12
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So guess who is still working on the timing for that ej255 turbo........ I could really use any help from the pros , its same as before set time static, pull tensioner pin, turn motor over now its not in time, seems like its cause the tensioner causes the crank to move but not the cams when it first engages during first turn. 5 loving hours on timing in this piece of poo poo.
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Jul 22, 2015 16:12
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bull3964 posted:You realize that the timing marks will not line up with every full revolution of the crank right? i'm talking about the timing marks on the cam and crank pulleys, those should always line up after 720 right? The problem is they don't, and i want to say the tensioner is somehow hosed from the box but they are expensive and i don't want to have this guy buy one and then me go "Whoops wasnt the tensioner , im just an idiot"
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Jul 22, 2015 16:34
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bull3964 posted:Yes, the cam and the crank should line back up. I will double check the belt teeth (or part number if its on the belt), my only concern that points towards the tensioner is that when turning the crank with the pin disengaged the tensioner visibly moves down quite a bit which causes this "mis timing/slipping" between the cams and crank. Quick check on parts.subaru.com shows two different belts so I guess I will have him check a part number with the vin and compare to what he got. Terrible Robot posted:I ran into a similar problem when I did the T belt on my cousin's Camry. It was caused by not wrapping the pulleys in the correct order. I was starting at the crank pulley and working my way around to the cam pulleys and that was creating slack in the wrong spot on the belt, so even when I let the tensioner do its thing there was still some looseness that allowed the pulleys to drift a few teeth out of sync. Ya All the videos I have seen go counter clockwise as far as belt install, so I think on saturday I will try it counter clockwise.
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Jul 22, 2015 17:38
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Lord of Garbagemen posted:So i have a question for jamal or bull. I am working on a ej255 turbo and doing a timing belt. every time i set timing and pull the tensioner pin roll it over get the crank back to tdc, check the marks and the drivers side cams are a like a a half tooth to a tooth retarded, if i hold the crank and turn the intake cam both of them set to the marks and every thing looks set. So i dug into this and it occurs when i pull the tensioner pin and rotate the tensioner it eats some slack and the cam doesn't move. I have set it like 3 times now all with the same results, and i haven't had this occur before on a suby t belt replacement. So long story short we buttoned it up a tooth off, got it running and it misfires under load. the code is intermitent po302 (cyl 2 misfire). I am having the owner swap coils then injectors. My question is this would timing affect all cylinders under load or is it possible to get to get only the cyl 2 misfire?
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Jul 26, 2015 02:02
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