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I guess this whole thing is to post stuff about your own car, discuss subarus, and ask questions. Have fun. In case you are unfamiliar with Subarus, I suggest watching this video to find out what we're all about : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=91_LT2EQOJ8 or maybe I meant this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=59dHABgEAIw and this: http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=Zwb-RNbdx5U (please excuse the ford content) _______________________________ Actual useful subaru information section first off I'll put in my contact info my email is peter at functionauto.com I have an AIM account under the same address which is online most of the time I'll add to this as people suggest things. Oil The type and weight of oil you use should depend on the way you use your car. If all you do is commute and never drive the car hard, go to a track, or auto-x, it doesn't really matter all that much, and you can stick with the 5w30 or whatever is recommended (in the older cars, the manual recommends oil grades based on conditions). That said, I still recommend using 5w40 synthetic in all EJ turbo Subarus for nearly all conditions. This gives you some added protection in warm climates and under high load conditions. Change it every 5k miles or so, and check the level often. For an FA turbo, 5w30 is usually fine. For n/a FA/FBs I stick to the oem recommendation of synthetic 0w20. For older non-turbo cars, it doesn't matter as much. If you are tracking the car, you might want to have something even heavier. The reason for this is that it will still maintain acceptable viscosity and pressure despite high oil temperatures. The best way to determine the appropriate oil is to monitor pressure and temperature under typical operating conditions. A track car should have an external oil cooler, an upgraded radiator, and oil pressure and coolant temp gauges. Headgaskets The subarus that have had problems with them are the N/A 2.5l cars. The first EJ25s were especially bad, so if you're looking at an older 2.5 impreza or legacy make sure they have been changed to the new MLS (multi-layer steel) design. Subaru has been making MLS gaskets for the phase 1 96-99 2.5 turbos which is basically a thicker sti gasket. Part number is 11044AA610. This gasket will only work in phase 1/DOHC engines. If you have a 99-09 n/a Subaru it also has crappy headgaskets, and they continued putting cheap gaskets in for much longer. Currently a dealer will give you mls gaskets for those probably. 04-06 STi headgaskets can also be used. The are the same thickness, have all the holes in the same places, but are a multi layer steel (MLS) design, compared to the junk single layer coated gaskets. Part number is 11044AA642. For 2010 the n/a subarus finally got a MLS gasket which is pn 11044AA770, or the same gasket in the 2008+ STi. The only difference between this gasket and the -642 are the holes for the cooling passages in the head. So to summarize if your phase 1 2.5 needs headgaskets get 11044AA610 if your phase II 2.5 needs headgaskets I like 11044AA642. I think the new oem gasket is 11044AA633. if you have a 2010+ you don't need to worry about this. turbo car power mods If you want to make more power with a turbo Subaru, the most important thing is having a way to tune the ECU to deal with your added parts. One of the easiest ways to do this is with a Cobb accessport. It plugs into the ODBII port and will read codes, engine information, log data, and flash different maps onto the ecu. You can have multiple maps on an accessport, and switch between them on the fly. If you don't want to spend the $600 on an AP, you can also directly reflash the ecu using open source software, a laptop, and a tactrix cable, but it's not quite as easy or convenient. The other most important part is actually tuning the ecu. An accessport comes with maps, and you can download maps from cobb based on your modifications. For simple upgrades like a downpipe or intake off the shelf maps are fine, but once you start changing things like turbos and injectors and internal engine parts like pistons and cams the car needs to be professionally tuned on a dyno. There is nothing wrong with a dyno tune for "stage 2" parts but it may not be cost effective. Since it's possible to simply reflash the ecu, the last thing you want to do is put on piggyback tuners and manual boost controllers. The ECU will do a much better and safer job controlling all aspects of the engine operation. With an aftermarket larger turbo, it is necessary to change the boost controller, but you should use an electronic 3-port solenoid which can still be controlled by the ecu. Some people use a hybrid system with a 3-port and an MBC which can prevent boost spikes. When it comes to parts to make more power, improving the breathing ability of the stock engine and turbo is step one and will create very substantial gains. The best bang for the buck modification you can do to a turbo Subaru is an aftermarket downpipe and a reflashed ecu. This will generally result in at least a 50whp gain. Doing all the rest of the "stage 2" stuff- intake, full exhaust, etc, will also make a difference but not quite as much as the downpipe. The approximate limit of an STI or 09+ WRX stock turbo on pump gas is around 320-330whp. For more power, bigger turbos, intercoolers, and injectors are necessary. Tuners Here are some well regarded subaru tuners. I'll expand upon it eventually: Cobb- there are four of them in Texas (2), Oregon, and Socal. Yimisport P&L motorsports Top Speed EFI logics GST motorsports AMS Church Automotive Testing Maxwell Power Services Phatbotti tuning UMS tuning Turn in Concepts if a tuner isn't on this list it doesn't mean they suck, just that I don't know about them. N/A power mods Your poo poo is slow and will always be slow. Drive your car as is or trade it for a WRX. A turbo motor swap is a cool project but expensive and time consuming. Tires Good tires appropriate for intended use are the best modification you can make to a Subaru, or any car. That usually means summer tires in the summer and winter tires in the winter. Suspension Don't buy Tein S-techs, and don't buy cheap coilovers. Good struts and some springs and swaybars will get you farther than e-bay garbage. If you want a complete coilver set, you'd better be sure it comes with actual good dampers. Most products under around 2k (and plenty above it), do not come with good dampers. I'm partial to koni, bilstein, kw, ast, and jrz, but there are plenty of other good shocks out there. You just have to pay for them. Swaybars- yes they help, I like Whiteline. The stickier the tire, the more swaybar you should have. IE- stock/small/no bars for rally, 22mm for street, 24mm for street tires on track, 27mm for r-comps on track. This is just a general guideline and bars should be sized on a case by case basis. Other suspension parts that are going to help in pretty much all cases: Whiteline ALK Upgraded bushings Anything from Turn in Concepts or Racecomp Engineering Kartboy parts All of which you can get from me Blow-off valves Stop, no, and don't. Subarus are maf-based and a bov will make your car run like poo poo and sound like poo poo. Transmissions No, your 5-speed is not made out of glass. But yes, they are known to fail. A lot of it is due to abuse, but the fact is the is only so much room in that case and the gears themselves are not very big. gears were strengthened and widened in 03/04, and if you blow up an older transmission a full LGT gearset can be had for about 1100 (they are the same dimensions as the STi RA gearset and slightly larger than the improved 5-speed wrx stuff. The 08+ wrx probably has them too but I haven't checked. If you upgrade to these gears, having them WPC or REM ISF treated is an inexpensive improvement. If you are making significantly more than stock power levels through a 5-speed, don't be surprised when you break something. If you are considering an expensive gearset for a 5-speed, skip it and buy a 6-speed. 6-speeds don't really break. You'll fry your clutch or break axles first. Many high-power drag and road race cars use the stock boxes without much issue. things you will typically need to replace at some point on an older subaru Any old car is going to need maintenance, I'm sure this list isn't much different for any other car: timing belt, tensioner, water pump, all idlers every 105k cv joints/axles wheel bearings steering rack boots ball joints and tie rods struts suspension bushings radiator - they eventually leak where the plastic endtanks are crimped to the aluminum core, you want a full aluminum replacement. exhaust parts valve cover gaskets the occasional sensor, O2 and knock are common. Subaru Websites nasioc - largest online Subaru community, plenty of morons, but an incredible amount of good info tucked into faqs and stickied threads. iwsti - sti specific. Seems to have reasonably good technical information scoobymods - detailed how-to guides for your basic installs legacygt - legacy specific forums, mostly for the new ones sl-i - legacy forum for mostly older models, lots of 2nd gen guys there. legacycentral - 1st gen legacies rs25 - 1st gen impreza 3gwrx - 08+ imprezas subaruforester.org - lesbian mobiles mysubie - sort of a facebook type deal for subarus wrxclub, iclub, awdjunkies - they exist, and that's about all I know. northursalia - good resource of technical information cars101 - detailed specs by year and model opposedforces - need to look up a part number? go here subarugeuineparts - need to buy an oem part? go here after you look up the part number (or use their catalog) subarupartsforyou - oem webstore that has a better format than SGP and also provides part numbers Where to buy stuff Ask me first; I have access to a ton of things. goons get discounts and not just on Subaru parts. For OEM stuff subarugeniuneparts or one of the other online wholesalers are much better than your local dealer For aftermarket non-performance stuff I have a hard time beating amazon and rock auto List of various engine related parts and seals: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1I4BBQURc6-BCfO9keOoBQEp8tjGr9MZ4Xu1hXlqXmTo/edit?usp=sharing jamal fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Nov 15, 2018 |
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Oct 2, 2008 06:28
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efnii posted:How difficult is a headgasket job in a 2.5 na subaru versus a more conventional engine? I imagine it's even more of a pain in the rear end compared to a nissan or something. This is something I might have to do to my old subaru which has since passed down to my little brother. I posted pictures of the process in my project thread: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2941958 You basically have to pull the engine and take it completely apart. While you're at it you should replace all the seals, gaskets, idler pulleys, timing belt and tensioner, and water pump. It'd also be a great time to drop in some delta cams if you're interested in more power. It's not a bad idea to pick up an sti oil pump and re-seal the pan either. But by then you've spent over $1000 and that's well on the way to a wrx motor. My parts total came to about $600 for all the seals and a timing belt, tensioner, and water pump. jamal fucked around with this message at 07:33 on Oct 2, 2008 |
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Oct 2, 2008 07:29
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well, if you grab a low mileage long block, it's still going to cost more, you're still going to have to do similar maintenance at some point, and you're still doing a similar amount of labor. I don't really have to touch my motor for 100k miles and it only cost me $600. The 2.5 dohc, with the right gaskets, is a great motor and makes power all the way to redline. Unless you're swapping in a turbo motor and ecu don't bother. That assumes that you haven't overheated the motor on blown headgaskets and warped the heads, cracked a ringland, or spun a bearing, of course.
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Oct 2, 2008 07:39
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Ziploc posted:Whats going on here? Is this some sort of test rig? You mean the car? Yeah sort of. It's an 08 sti with a lot of neat parts. The turbo is a new thing from atp (they use Garrett center housings) and that was one of the first ones to go on a Subaru. Here it is in the car:  It's just an open dump so it sounds loving ridiculous. fatlightning posted:I have a 97 legacy gt sedan with 80k miles on it. It runs great and ive never had to do anything to it other then replace two rotors(my fault). I am a little worried about this head gasket issue, mainly because I don't think I could afford the repairs. I don't drive it hard, and always do scheduled maintenance. How worried should i be about blowing a head gasket? Unfortunately, it will very likely happen sometime in the next 40k miles. jamal fucked around with this message at 05:56 on Oct 3, 2008 |
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Oct 3, 2008 05:54
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yeah, you take that off before you install the headers.
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Oct 3, 2008 06:16
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Cat Terrist posted:This is the worlds most stock WRX having it's neck wrung. And driver having fun beating up STI's go buy some whiteline parts already. You won't regret it. And find some way to get like -2.5 degrees of negative camber up front.
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Oct 3, 2008 09:24
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8ender posted:Another question. I'm getting close to timing belt time and I'd like to make a weekend of it. I'm also going to replace the coolant and throw a bottle of Subaru Conditioner in as I'm losing tiny amounts of coolant here and there and the coolant is well overdue according to the previous owners records. With the timing belt you should replace the tensioner, all the idlers, the water pump, thermostat, and radiator cap. Use OEM parts. You'll also need a gasket for the thermostat and water pump since they don't come with them for some reason. You should probably pick up some new radiator hoses, accessory belts, and replacing the front oil seals on the cams and crank is also an option. Of course, if they didn't leak before and you put them in crooked or mar up the sealing surface, then they will leak. You also could get new seals for the timing covers. I don't like the coolant conditioner. It's just that stop leak crap that's supposedly going to keep headgaskets from blowing. All it really does is clog radiator passages. If your leak is not coming from a hose somewhere or the radiator then I guess try it out. In other news, here are our sema cars:  Click here for the full 1280x960 image. One still needs a bit of work. jamal fucked around with this message at 11:04 on Oct 6, 2008 |
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Oct 5, 2008 09:19
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Fords have the motor tilted into the dashboard, but Subarus actually have all the gears and center diff behind the front wheels.
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Oct 5, 2008 10:10
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8ender posted:
Here's the front of an SOHC motor without the timing covers. The water pump is the pulley right next to the toothed idler on the bottom right. It doesn't take more than an extra few minutes to change once you're in there.  Here's a dohc. Everything is in the same place; there are just extra cams. This one also has the hydraulic tensioner instead of the older spring loaded one. without water pump  with water pump  There's actually plenty of room to work on all this with the radiator out. If you'd like a more detailed description on how to change one I can write it.
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Oct 5, 2008 20:28
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Your 02 is SOHC, which makes changing the belt even easier. Getting everything lined up on a dohc is a little trickier. Start by draining the coolant, unplugging the radiator fans, and taking off the accessory belts and a/c belt tensioner. Then remove the radiator. You can do all of that with a screwdriver and 12 mm socket wrench. Once the radiator is off you have to remove the crank pulley. It's a 22mm bolt and you will need a long breaker bar and some way to stop the motor from turning. Generally the car in gear and on the ground with the brake set will do it, or if you have an automatic you can jam something through the access hole on the bellhousing to wedge up against the torque convertor. You can do that with the flywheel on a 5-speed too. With the crank pulley off remove the timing covers. Keep track of all the little bolts. Then put the crank pulley bolt back in and rotate the motor to TDC. There is a hash mark on the crank and cam pulleys that will line up with a mark on the oil pump near the cam sensor and marks on the top of the rear timing covers. All the hash marks should be pointing up. Then remove the red idler pulley, tensioner, and timing belt. Then the rest of the idlers, and the water pump. You should probably clean off the front of the motor at this point. The water pump is the first thing you'll want to put on and the tensioner is the last. put in the new thermostat and transfer the housing over from the old pump. The little hole should be at the top. It's a little tricky to get the water pump bolts and gasket to line up. I generally get the top two started and then you can wiggle it around to get the rest. Once it's in there you'll want to tighten in a circular pattern. I believe the spec is 7 lb-ft on the first pass and 11 on the second, so be sure not to over-tighten things. Also make sure you have not confused the six water pump bolts with the longer timing cover bolts. Once the water pump is on you'll want to install some of the idlers so it looks like this: On dohc cars I generally leave the tensioner and the red idler off. The replacement for your red idler should be a black one. The black on has two bearings in it and Subaru just uses that now. You can probably install the tensioner (but don't pull the pin of course) before the belt. Here's a diagram of all the idlers and the torque specs for everything: http://jamalb.net/FSM/MSA5TCD99L30.pdf With most of the idlers in place, you can install the belt. Looking at the front of the car it rotates clockwise and you should be able to read the belt. The dotted line goes over the crank sprocket. You want to make sure to line it up with the hash mark and not the arrow on the front. In this picture the timing belt is installed wrong:  Then you'll want to do the cam sprocket on your left. It helps to have someone hold it in place with a wrench while you do the other side. The lines on the belt should match the marks on the gears and the notch in the timing cover. Once you have the belt and all the idlers on, rotate the engine a few times before you pull the tensioner pin, and make sure the marks on the gears and timing cover all line up. The marks on the belt will not line up again for something like 50 rotations so don't worry about that. Just make sure all the hash marks on the gears line up before you pull the pin. Putting everything back together is pretty simple. It's really easy to break off the thread inserts on the timing covers if you over tighten them so be careful with that.
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Oct 5, 2008 21:50
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Zsbaug24 posted:And I disagree with CT that the STI is by and large as waste of extra cash over the WRX for the record. the extra cost of an sti over a wrx is a loving bargain imo. The 40k loaded up sti with nav and whatnot isn't that great of a deal, but at 31-32k us the transmission and diffs alone are worth the difference. Mat_Drinks posted:On another note, I saw a video recently on the difference between bellmouth downpipes and divorced wastegate downpipes and it wasn't really clear on when the divorced being better matters as far as power numbers... Is it always better or does it not matter until you're seeing big numbers? the divorced wastegate doesn't really offer a ton of benefit, and there are fitment issues on some turbos. The invidia downpipe, for example, blocks the wastegate on the VF46 and some aftermarket turbos. While it is a very nice part, I would suggest a regular bellmouth invidia. The key points of a downpipe are the front flange, the cat, and the rear flange. Some have a nice cast bellmouth. This is key IMO and narrows your choices down to pretty much only invidia and cobb. Without a cast bellmouth you just have a piece of pipe on a flat flange (helix, hks), or a piece of pipe hammered out to meet the turbo flange (megan racing, other ebay crap). The flat flange reduces flow, and the hammered out pipe thing is garbage and will crack. Cobb and Invidia both make catted and catless downpipes, but the cobb meets up to a stock donut gasket where the invidia is a 3" flat flange. If you want it to meet up with the stock exhaust go with cobb, but a full three inch exhaust will gain at least 10whp over the neck down to 2.5. jamal fucked around with this message at 11:14 on Oct 7, 2008 |
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Oct 7, 2008 07:30
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that's a nice looking loyale but the Legacy is a much better car in every way. Here's my old one shortly after I got it:  Here it is about 8 years later:  then it spun some rod bearings, which was mostly my fault.
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Oct 8, 2008 10:10
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yeah as long as you have the right socket plugs are not too bad. I don't see how anyone could get away with charging more than an hour for labor. Or $50 per plug.
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Oct 12, 2008 09:00
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TurboLuvah posted:I'm looking for a steering column mounted 52mm gauge pod, but I can't seem to find them on the part sites I've looked at. for the column just use the bracket that comes with the gauge. Otherwise there's a replacement cluster surround that mounts two gauges. I though perrin made it but I can't find them on the site.
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Oct 13, 2008 08:08
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Cat Terrist posted:Where the hell is the place you refill a gearbox when you do an oil change...? the dipstick tube. I don't visualize that as being easy on an LHD car. Might have to take off the IC. Funny thing is that for the 08 6-speed they ditched the dipstick and there is just a hex plug on the top of the tranny.
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Oct 13, 2008 08:35
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Mat_Drinks posted:Can anybody confirm/deny the 2.5? no outback sports had the 2.5 until 2002. Only the Legacy 2.5GT, Impreza RS, and Legacy Outback had the 2.5. Also here's a good site for looking stuff like that up: cars101.com
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Oct 14, 2008 06:18
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the strut clunk happens on cars with inverted dampers, such as this one that is on my car: There are rings of grease on the inner bearing surface of the housing. It eventually leaks out and wears down and the strut will clunk. The clunking is the insert sticking in the housing and you'll notice it at really low speeds. You can pop them apart, clean out the grease, and put in fresh stuff and the clunk will go away for a long time. If you let it go too long the inserts can get scored up though and it will always clunk.
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Oct 14, 2008 06:36
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You're generally better off not going out and buying everything in the SPT or whatever you guys have catalog. Our sti suspension is what's on the spec c, and is what is on my car. It's pretty good once you cut the front bumpstops and slot the holes, especially if you get them cheap. It's a little harsh though and there may be better options depending on your budget. group N parts are good but I would get cusco motor and trans mounts instead, and probably camber plates because it's impossible to get a decent performance alignment out of the stock bolts. Plus you can add a boatload of caster with them in crooked. jamal fucked around with this message at 08:47 on Oct 16, 2008 |
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Oct 16, 2008 08:40
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Cat Terrist posted:I'm not touching Cusco except if it's in the diffs The motor and transmission mounts are very good. They use captive bushings instead of rubber stuck to plates and I think they're better than the group n ones. jamal fucked around with this message at 08:53 on Oct 18, 2008 |
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Oct 18, 2008 08:38
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you should get a real jack and jackstands. The wheel lug nut uses a 19mm wrench. For the brakes you'll need a 17mm, 14mm, maybe a 12, and some M8x1.25 screws to pop the rotors off if they're stuck good. You should also do a thorough brake bleed and flush. You should have someone who knows what they're doing help you with that because if you let air into the master cylinder your brakes won't work and it's not an easy fix. jamal fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Sep 4, 2009 |
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Oct 19, 2008 21:15
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after 7 years brake fluid has a lot of water in it and will boil very easily. Just run a big bottle of fluid through it. The castrol, valvolene, or any other synthetic dot4 fluids are great. jamal fucked around with this message at 07:53 on Oct 20, 2008 |
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Oct 20, 2008 03:48
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Mr. Powers posted:Are you sure it's not the VF52 turbo? That's what is on the USDM 2009 WRXs. It has similar components to the STi turbo, but it is not quite the same. I think it shares a compressor or impeller but not the other. Something like that. yeah, that's what I've gathered. We had an 09 in the shop the other day but it was just for springs so I didn't get to dig into the motor. We'll be doing a downpipe and tune shortly though. The handling didn't seem all that special compared to the 08. I guess they may have added a mm of swaybar. The big change is that it comes on 225 dunlop sports now. The front seats also have wrx embroidered in them which reminds me of the old GC wrx seats. The biggest difference between the 52 and 48, to the best of my knowledge, is just the compressor cover, which has the outlet on the top to go into the topmount. Perrin makes a pretty good upgraded top mount for the legacy and 08-09 actually.
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Oct 25, 2008 09:41
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Where did you hear that?
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Oct 27, 2008 03:55
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I got some information about the 09 failures today. Apparently the problem is that some of the blocks didn't have the casting materials/leftovers/flashing flushed out well enough and that crud ended up floating around in some motors. They're checking the oil on all the 09s, and if it shows signs of debris the whole shortblock gets replaced. That info comes from the subaru tech working part time at our shop. As for whistling above 3500rpm not related to speed, I'd point toward a hosed turbo or some driveline problem. To re-flash an Impreza ecu, there's some stuff that will work on 99-01 Imprezas and Legacies that only i-speed/crawford and some guy in canada has. There's a bunch of stuff for newer cars. jamal fucked around with this message at 08:58 on Oct 28, 2008 |
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Oct 28, 2008 07:24
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There have been problems with 08 bottom ends? I know they have a lovely stock map that's melted a few pistons, usually after some poorly done modifications, but I haven't heard of any 08 imprezas spinning bearings. There are multiple reports on the 09s and a few Legacies doing it though. And yeah I'm sure the tube they use is exactly 1mm id and all bearing chunks are at least 3mm across. So what's the problem then? Spun bearings pretty much has to be oil related. It seems pretty reasonable to me. jamal fucked around with this message at 10:09 on Oct 28, 2008 |
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Oct 28, 2008 10:00
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fuji bond and lots and lots of bolts. I hadn't heard of problems with the bottom ends of any other cars, but I'll have to ask about it tomorrow. There is a recall on a bunch of 2.5Ts because of the turbo oil line, which is installed in a way that could cause it to crack on a few cars. Or I guess we're just a year behind over here.
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Oct 29, 2008 06:23
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Yeah, I've seen a bunch of 07s with cracked ringlands, but none of them were bone stock or modded well. I've heard that some stock cars cracked pistons, but it's all been second or third hand. There's an 07 we've put a bunch of parts on and tuned multiple times. Most recent change was an ATP 3071 and a re-tune which makes 350whp on our poo poo 91 octane. I'd be moderately surprised if it cracked a piston on the current tune. As for problems with the bottom end, I haven't seen or heard of any except for a few 09 wrxes. CT, you should not worry at all about picking up an 05-06 sti for rally. Especially if you run water injection or feel like putting in some forged pistons.
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Oct 30, 2008 09:00
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there's a little rubber piece on the TB coupler you need to remove, and it helps to trim off the little plastic clip that holds the pcv line right in front of the i/c. then you can push the hose down for more clearance.
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Nov 4, 2008 21:05
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there are things I would buy from cobb and perrin, namely intercoolers and accessports, but I'm not a huge fan of some of the other products they make. We're an accessport protuner and have a really good relationship with cobb, but I'll still never recommend their springs (too low) or swaybars (you get better parts from whiteline).
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Nov 4, 2008 21:40
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yeah getting into reverse on my 140k mile 5 speed is pretty irritating and grindey sometimes.
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Nov 25, 2008 10:25
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TeamIce posted:So after waiting for 2 months, my Racecomp Tarmac 1's have finally arrived for my LGT. The shop is trying to sell me on a set of Whiteline sway bars to go with them - anyone have any experience with these? I know Whiteline's a good brand, but wondering if it's worth the comparative performance increase. yep, get them. Whiteline makes the best swaybars for Subarus. The Tarmac 1s will seriously cut back on body roll and have good dampers but with the crap camber curve subarus have you need stupidly stiff spring rates to keep the tire in it's ideal position. That ruins the ride and actually is bad for the handling so a bit more swaybar to keep the car flat goes a long way. jamal fucked around with this message at 08:46 on Nov 26, 2008 |
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Nov 26, 2008 08:35
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05+ has wider wheels and better front wheel bearings. There are a few other little things but those are the major items in my mind.
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Dec 1, 2008 06:39
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Well, I know of a few 5-speeds with over 400whp. One of them broke 3rd though. It more of a "don't dump the clutch at 5k and flat-foot shift" than it is a ticking time bomb glass tranny.
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Dec 1, 2008 09:23
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A co-worker used to work on the ESX drag cars. They ran bone stock used 4eats with a high stall torque converter. At ~950hp they'd go through two or so per season. And Mr. Powers, get a turboback, intake, and tune ASAP. Here's a car we did recently: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1644734
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Dec 13, 2008 09:01
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no, there's nothing wrong with getting a used sti. They're really durable cars. Just do a compression and leak down check before buying it.
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Dec 13, 2008 09:48
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Turbo Car posted:
Depending on the dyno it's more than possible. Here's about the most you can get out of the stock turbo and 95 octane. It's really hilarious how worked up some people got in that thread. jamal fucked around with this message at 11:55 on Dec 14, 2008 |
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Dec 14, 2008 11:52
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in 06 they got rid of the 2.0 completely in the US that includes the 9-2x. They didn't give it the 4-pot brakes though. Probably because they say subaru across them.
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Dec 14, 2008 21:58
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on my n/a 2.2, blackstone said it was fine to go 7500 on semi-synthetic.
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Dec 14, 2008 22:11
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damnit. Why do my side mirrors have to be fixed while practically every other subaru has folding ones. I just broke the passenger one off on the fence by my driveway. gently caress. Maybe I can fix it with enough superglue.
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Dec 15, 2008 04:11
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 05:48 |
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the bolts on the rear diff cover work themselves loose occasionally. Make sure they're all snugged up. Otherwise it could be an axle seal.
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Dec 15, 2008 06:06
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