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Gnomad posted:I was considering selling the Chinese bikes until I took a really good look at one in person, the quality is dreadful. This isn't like the Japanese who may copy stuff but build it fanatically well, the Chinese build the stuff as absolutely cheaply as they can possibly can. FWIW, When I lived in china, the locals wouldn't buy the chinese bikes either! Instead they bought Taiwanese-made Japanese scooters (my mate got a Yamaha). Bear in mind that China is in catchup mode and that Japanese bikes back in the day were also bollocks until they sorted their manufacturing methodologies.
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Oct 20, 2008 12:13
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iolaire posted:FWIW, When I lived in china, the locals wouldn't buy the chinese bikes either! Instead they bought Taiwanese-made Japanese scooters (my mate got a Yamaha). Not quite. Even in the 60's, Japanese bikes were pretty nice. Yeah, they went through some phases of bad bolts and whatnot, but in general, they were just as nice as they are today. I mean, poo poo, look at all the old-rear end Japanese bikes that are still on the road. The average Chinese bikes life expectancy is what, 5 years at the most? Nerobro posted:Something tells me going to electrolyic route might be best... Yeah, I know it will be the best, but I thought I'd try the cheap easy route first. We'll see how it goes, I guess.
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Oct 20, 2008 15:13
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Z3n posted:Those work, but can be a bit of a pita because if you're not careful you can suck the mercury into your bike. One of the reasons I would rather use the cheapo method is that you can use whatever fluid you want. The article linked mentions using automatic transmission fluid, which shouldn't damage anything should it get sucked into the engine. Z3n posted:Typically, you buy hose that can just slip over the brass fittings on your vaccum ports. My vacuum ports are just threaded holes. This picture shows the vacuum ports. This picture shows the vacuum ports with some sort of adapter installed. I want to know where I can obtain this adapter. My bike is my only mode of transportation so I can't really disassemble it to find out what type of object should be inserted. Is it a standard thing common to most/all bikes or what?
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Oct 20, 2008 16:15
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The NonBornKing posted:One of the reasons I would rather use the cheapo method is that you can use whatever fluid you want. The article linked mentions using automatic transmission fluid, which shouldn't damage anything should it get sucked into the engine. Yeah, any fluid is fine. Even still, it's easy if you're not careful and wing the throttle open really hard to suck fluid into the bike. That's really the only downside to those though. When they're set up right, they work just as well as the expensive ones. My bikes have always had brass fittings in the intake boots themselves. I've never seen a setup like that. I'd imagine that you could find any sort of threaded fitting, though, and make something work. Harley?
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Oct 20, 2008 16:58
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Z3n posted:My bikes have always had brass fittings in the intake boots themselves. I've never seen a setup like that. I'd imagine that you could find any sort of threaded fitting, though, and make something work. Harley? It's a Honda Shadow. After looking around a bit it seems that there are essentially two types of threaded adapters, a 5mm and a 6mm. The 5mm seems to be the most common and the one that is most likely on my bike. I've found a few online that sell for about $4 apiece. With shipping it makes each one expensive so I'm going to go to Home Depot and see if I can find anything that will work. Wish me luck! And thanks for the input.
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Oct 20, 2008 18:04
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I checked out the DRZ with the mods and he's willing to sell it for 4300, but there's a lien on the bike. Nobody I know has any experience buying a vehicle with a lien... is it something to stay away from? If I have a bill of sale through the DMV form is that a legal guarantee that I should get the title? They were saying I'd make a check out to the bank, then they'd get the title, then transfer it to me. I'd have the bike in the meantime.
Lawn fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Oct 20, 2008 |
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Oct 20, 2008 18:47
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VideoTapir posted:Is Johnny Pag http://johnnypag.com/ just another Chinese bike, or are they actually decent? those brakes look scary!
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Oct 20, 2008 18:55
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Can anyone tell me the pros and cons of a centerstand versus a side stand on a bike? My Bonneville has a side stand which works well for me, but it makes oiling the chain a pain. Are they an either or proposition? Is it harder to use a center stand over a side stand?
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Oct 20, 2008 19:13
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Getting bikes on the center stand is easy once you know how, but it's pretty tricky if you've never done it before. It's really nice for lubing the chain but most bikes don't have the option for them.
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Oct 20, 2008 19:17
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Lawn posted:Getting bikes on the center stand is easy once you know how, but it's pretty tricky if you've never done it before. It's really nice for lubing the chain but most bikes don't have the option for them.
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Oct 20, 2008 19:41
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Lawn posted:I checked out the DRZ with the mods and he's willing to sell it for 4300, but there's a lien on the bike. Nobody I know has any experience buying a vehicle with a lien... is it something to stay away from? If I have a bill of sale through the DMV form is that a legal guarantee that I should get the title? They were saying I'd make a check out to the bank, then they'd get the title, then transfer it to me. I'd have the bike in the meantime. You may or may not be able to contact the company that the lein is held by and get them to release it directly to you. I'd go with that first. Lien holds can always be a bit of a PITA unless the company and the seller are both local and you can conduct buisness right there. Centerstands are not a either/or proposition. I like having them on any bike I ride regularly, trackbikes...not so much. It's a convience/parking item. greg_graffin has it right with getting the bike on the centerstand. You always want to shove down and forward as hard as possible on the arm of the stand and lift straight up on the back. It seems impossible until you do it once or twice and then you get the hang of it.
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Oct 20, 2008 20:21
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Should I keep my registration with me on the bike? I know with a car, it's license, registration, and insurance ... the same for bikes?
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Oct 20, 2008 20:33
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Krakkles posted:Should I keep my registration with me on the bike? Yes. The simple fact that you have registration on hand may even get you out of tickets. Especially true when paired with the mythical motorcycle license and insurance.
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Oct 20, 2008 20:47
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I was told that it's actually possible to be asked to put the bike on the centre stand when you're doing the test, assuming you have a centre stand. That said, it's rather unusual because it would have to be the Show question of the Show/Tell portion, and there are more important things the tester would rather you show him, such as checking brakes or lights or brake lights. Remembering back to my test now, the biggest problem I actually had on my test was answering the question the tester asked me at the end, just before he took my license off me and signed all the forms. He asked me about riding two up, I was fine with setting preload and higher tire pressure before you start, fine with the kit for the passenger and the slower accleration and longer braking distances. I just got screwed up when talking about leaning, I was trying to say that they should lean with the bike but I was trying to explain that I didn't want them leaning too far and being further over than the driver. However, I screwed it up big time, got the words all mixed up and then trying to correct it, made it even more of a mess. Finally I gave up and told him I was giving up, he laughed and said something about digging a hole to Australia. Also, my dinky 125 went over 10k miles on the way back from work. I think I've done about 2000 on her, got her with 8600 on the clock and there's about 500 miles on there with a bust speedo cable.
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Oct 20, 2008 20:51
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Ok, another stupid one. I feel like I have better control over the throttle when my hand is completely wrapped around it, but it significantly cuts into my reaction time, because if something happens and I suddenly need to brake, it feels like it takes a long time to get back on the front brake. I've taken to rolling my thumb under the throttle and keeping at least two if not all four fingers on the brake. I don't always, but generally when I'm not on an empty straightaway with great visibility. Am I making a newbie mistake? How should I deal with this?
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Oct 20, 2008 22:07
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A thumb under the throttle and at least your index and middle finger on the brake lever sounds perfect. Once you get used to it you'll be able to control the throttle just fine without having your whole hand wrapped around it. I actually feel awkward putting my whole hand around the throttle because I almost never do it.
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Oct 20, 2008 22:18
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Krakkles posted:Ok, another stupid one. I feel like I have better control over the throttle when my hand is completely wrapped around it, but it significantly cuts into my reaction time, because if something happens and I suddenly need to brake, it feels like it takes a long time to get back on the front brake. I've taken to rolling my thumb under the throttle and keeping at least two if not all four fingers on the brake. I don't always, but generally when I'm not on an empty straightaway with great visibility. The reason that MSF and other new rider instructional schools will tell you not to cover the brakes is because new riders have a tendency to grab at the front brake, rather than applying it smoothly and progressively when something threatening/unexpected occurs. So, someone starts to roll foward on you and make the typical left in front of the motorcyclist move, and you grab the front brake and lock the front and dump the bike. Once you've mastered that urge to grab at the front brake, covering the brakes is ideal. I'm almost always covering the brake with 2 fingers in the city, and on the open highway I will 4 finger the throttle. Traffic usually means I'm covering. Z3n fucked around with this message at 23:12 on Oct 20, 2008 |
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Oct 20, 2008 22:27
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Personally I tend to have my middle and ring finger on the brake and all the others on the throttle, which may or may not be really weird. I feel like I can't control the throttle if I don't have my index finger on it, and putting my pinky on the brake while my index finger is on the throttle makes me tend to grab more brake than I intend to.
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Oct 20, 2008 22:30
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Twenty-Seven posted:Personally I tend to have my middle and ring finger on the brake and all the others on the throttle, which may or may not be really weird. I feel like I can't control the throttle if I don't have my index finger on it, and putting my pinky on the brake while my index finger is on the throttle makes me tend to grab more brake than I intend to. Woah, middle and ring feels really wierd. I do first and middle on the brake and ring and little on the throttle when I have to. I've had far too much practise finessing brake and throttle at the same time, my bike loving hates starting in the rain and will stall when pulling away idle if the engine is cold and it's raining so I have to keep at least some power on whilst clutched in and braked. Still grab the brake when startled, but that happens whether I have any fingers resting on the brake or not. Also more likely when wet and/or really loving tired. I'm working a night shift atm (10-6 or 8-6) and goddamn are the roads beautiful at 6am. You can always detect whenever someone's coming because of the lights, and I seem to ride faster when I can't freak out over the corner, but just ride whatever appears. I've got a hole in my exhaust though, aparently it's quite noisy and thus I can be heard quite a few streets away.
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Oct 20, 2008 23:19
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Orange Someone posted:Woah, middle and ring feels really wierd. I do first and middle on the brake and ring and little on the throttle when I have to. I've had far too much practise finessing brake and throttle at the same time, my bike loving hates starting in the rain and will stall when pulling away idle if the engine is cold and it's raining so I have to keep at least some power on whilst clutched in and braked.
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Oct 20, 2008 23:53
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As to fingers/hand on throttle, mix it up if you are putting in serious hours on a bike. Most weekends I'll be on motocross bike for 5-6 hours and then ride home (1-2 hours) at minimum, and a few weeks back my right wrist was killing me. I was doing the cover with index and ring and throttle with what's left, for hours on end. I finally figured out my problem and now switch techniques every so often. Kinda been eyeing a thottle lock for extended cruising.
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Oct 21, 2008 03:39
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This is a really retarded question but does anyone know what kind of Harley Jax rides in Sons of Anarchy?
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Oct 21, 2008 03:50
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echomadman posted:turn up your idle speed a small bit, and try giving the coil, HT lead and spark plug cap a shot of silicone spray to drive out water. Thanks. I remember fiddling with the idle speed a month or so after I bought the bike, but I don't think I did much else with it. A guy at work who rides suggested pulling the plug and cleaning it. I really do need to give my bike some TLC but I've got no driveway/garage space and I much prefer doing wrenching with someone else.
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Oct 21, 2008 13:54
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antisocial86 posted:This is a really retarded question but does anyone know what kind of Harley Jax rides in Sons of Anarchy? According to Wikipedia most of the cast rides Dyna Superglides, but I can't speak to Jax specifically since I don't watch trash TV. 
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Oct 21, 2008 15:08
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antisocial86 posted:This is a really retarded question but does anyone know what kind of Harley Jax rides in Sons of Anarchy? It's one of the Harley Dark Custom bikes. I remember reading a little blurb in one of the many Harley rags while I was browsing at a Barnes and Noble about the bikes on the show.
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Oct 21, 2008 17:05
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I'm not sure if this is too in-depth, but I might as well try. My '84 Magna V30 has malfunctioning turn signals. Sometimes one signal will work properly, sometimes none will. When I turn the right signal on, I hear the flasher clicking, rapidly, but no lights. The left signal works ok, but only the rear. I have checked all the bulbs (all appear to be ok), and fuses (again, all ok), along with the connections immediately preceding the turn signals. In my opinion, this would leave three possible culprits: 1. The actual signal hand control. I have read a few posts on other forums discussing the finicky behavior of these switches, so I guess it could be the control, but doesn't seem very likely given that I hear the "tick-tock" for both sides. 2. Grounding. I have also read that a missing or poorly connected ground wire can result in goofy poo poo like this as well. I have three service manuals on their way to my home sometime this week, so I may be able to test this theory after I figure out exactly how the system is grounded. 3. Bad switch assembly. The diagrams I have looked at online are fairly vague (old fiche, low res bitonal scans), but I believe this is the correct part. Basically, the box that makes the "tick-tock" sound is located next to the battery, and has a 4 or 6 wire harness attached to the top of it. The front of the box has two screws with a section of wire running between the two. The harness on top is ok, but it looks as if a few of the wires going into the harness have melted. I don't know if this is more indicative of a problem elsewhere, or a problem with the switch assembly itself. Behold, my half-assed attempt to diagram this:  I can probably figure this out myself, given enough time and trial-and-error, but if anyone has any advice, I'd be very grateful.
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Oct 21, 2008 17:47
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Replace the wires first. You're going to have to do it, regardless, so fix what's broken first, because you'll have to do it period. If it doesn't fix the problem, no sweat, because you needed to fix that anyways.
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Oct 21, 2008 18:30
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Z3n posted:Replace the wires first. You're going to have to do it, regardless, so fix what's broken first, because you'll have to do it period. If it doesn't fix the problem, no sweat, because you needed to fix that anyways. I'm concerned that whatever caused the wires to melt in the first place would just melt the new ones as well.
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Oct 21, 2008 18:40
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NVaderJ posted:I'm concerned that whatever caused the wires to melt in the first place would just melt the new ones as well. Well, ideally you'd replace the entire connector and solder in new wires...you could double check that they're not getting some absurd reading, but a lot of things can cause wires to melt...resistance building up on the plug, etc. If the connector and the wires are fried, I'd probably say you built up a bunch of resistance there and the heat melted the wires. Either way, you're going to have to replace them to test it accurately, so it's work you have to do no matter what. And you'll be able to tell without frying your repair job if there is a problem. You have a wiring diagram, right?
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Oct 21, 2008 18:46
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Z3n posted:You have a wiring diagram, right? It's in the mail. I bought an owners manual, a repair manual, and a clymers. Between those three, I better have a wiring diagram.
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Oct 21, 2008 18:53
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Lawn posted:I'm looking at two different DRZ 400 SM's, both about the same price (4800 and 5000) but one with mods and one stock. I don't know anything about the mods, can anyone give some advice on this one? I know I'm jumping on this a bit late but.. The Airbox mod, exhaust and jet kit are the ones you would want to put on yourself to really awaken the engine. New brakes at 5k seems pretty unnecessary and he doesn't mention if they are stockers or an upgrade but either way one finger stoppies are possible. Can't comment on the new bars, but the mods on that thing seem to have a rhyme and reason behind them.
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Oct 21, 2008 19:07
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Does anyone have a preferred brand for steel brake lines for their motorcycles? What about hand guards, anyone got a favorite?
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Oct 22, 2008 00:14
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Coredump posted:Does anyone have a preferred brand for steel brake lines for their motorcycles? What about hand guards, anyone got a favorite? I like Galfer. Don't have anything else to really go on there, IMO lines are lines, pretty much. They'll cut them to any length you specify, which is nice, without any extra charge.
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Oct 22, 2008 00:25
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Z3n posted:I like Galfer. Don't have anything else to really go on there, IMO lines are lines, pretty much. They'll cut them to any length you specify, which is nice, without any extra charge. When you say "they'll" who is that? As far as I can tell Galfer only sells to distributors.
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Oct 22, 2008 00:37
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Coredump posted:Does anyone have a preferred brand for steel brake lines for their motorcycles? What about hand guards, anyone got a favorite? I've put Hel, earls and melvin stainless lines on various bikes of mine and friends. they're all pretty much the same. Hel have the nicest stickers, if that makes a difference
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Oct 22, 2008 00:47
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Coredump posted:When you say "they'll" who is that? As far as I can tell Galfer only sells to distributors. I contacted my local shop, they ordered them for me, and because I had an oddball bike, I asked them if they could cut to these exact lengths and cut them to my specs for no extra charge. Shop was MotoLoco in Santa Barbara.
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Oct 22, 2008 01:35
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Ok, My bike ( 71 AT-1) is now becoming all black. Gloss, Satin and Matt to be precise.... Which really only leaves the Fork tubes chrome. Any Ideas on what to put over them?
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Oct 22, 2008 01:36
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^^ bootsCoredump posted:Does anyone have a preferred brand for steel brake lines for their motorcycles? What about hand guards, anyone got a favorite? I've got a set of Galfer ss lines on my bike, and the fasteners started showing surface rust within a month of installation. Maybe they used to be better?
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Oct 22, 2008 01:55
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Kaptainballistik posted:Which really only leaves the Fork tubes chrome. Any Ideas on what to put over them? They're called fork gaiters. They're available in black.
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Oct 22, 2008 01:56
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Bingo. Thanks!
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Oct 22, 2008 04:44
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