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I gotta replace the brake bleed screws on my SV. Is it just a matter of completely emptying out one caliber side of fluid and switching out the screw? Is there anything I need to do? Do I have to keep the master cylinder filled throughout?
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Jul 19, 2011 05:31
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Unscrew the old one, screw in the new one. It'll leak a little brake fluid but not tons. You'll probably want to bleed the brakes afterward.
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Jul 19, 2011 05:41
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Yeah that's my intention, to bleed the brakes. I got a pair of new screws in the mail because the ones on the calibers are rusty. Was just wondering when exactly in the bleeding process I should replace them. So I'm assuming it won't be a gusher if I just went straightaway to the calibers and replaced them before I start the bleeding process.
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Jul 19, 2011 05:45
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Calipers, not calibers. Anyways, you'll definitely need to bleed and you will definitely introduce air. You should replace them before you do any bleeding, as you'll just put air in the lines the second you remove the bleeders. You'll leak fluid when you replace them unless you pull them off the bike and make sure the bleeder is the highest point in the system (ie, break the bleeder loose but don't remove it, remove the caliper, hold it upright over the MC and then unscrew the old bleeder and screw in the new one).
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Jul 19, 2011 06:44
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I have been thinking about building a winter bike, but biggest problem is that i don't really know what kind of bike would be best for winter. On a blog about guy who drive his Sportster in winter said that bike with low center of mass is good for winter. Before that i thought that Dual-sport or offroad bike would be best but i don't really know anything driving in snow. So i've been thinking about older BMW or Ural/Dnerp, both are pretty cheap ~2000€, most Urals have sidecar but are known to be really unreliable. BMW should be reliable but Ural would be really cool. Did i say i live in Finland? So there could be -40ºC(-40 ºF  ) temperatures. Some kind block heater would be "must have".So goons help me what kind of bike i should be looking or should i just drive car during winter like sane person would do.
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Jul 19, 2011 15:05
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Shyfted One posted:Need to replace my front right turn signal (2004 Ninja 250), but finding a replacement has been a pain. FYI on the second set you posted, I just got them today and they're not Ninja specific at all. They're just generically curved to fit 90% of sport bikes somewhere on the fairings. The surface that contacts the bike kind of fits within the Ninja's mounting area, although its a different shape. They also come with a three-wire lead instead of two, and have the wrong size bullet connectors. I'm still deciding if it'll be more work to kludge these onto the bike, or try and return them and get a pair actually made to fit.
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Jul 20, 2011 00:41
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sirbeefalot posted:They also come with a three-wire lead instead of two A lot of bikes have 3-lead front signals because they double as running lights. Simply leave the running light lead disconnected, and cap it off. A 3-lead light for $14 ain't too shabby, really.
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Jul 20, 2011 00:45
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clutchpuck posted:A lot of bikes have 3-lead front signals because they double as running lights. Simply leave the running light lead disconnected, and cap it off. A 3-lead light for $14 ain't too shabby, really. I figured that's what it was for, and was going to do just that. Its more that they're also the wrong connector so I'll have to hack the light and the fairing up (mounting holes don't line up either) to make it work when they were advertised as compatible.
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Jul 20, 2011 00:48
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Captain Kosmos posted:I have been thinking about building a winter bike, but biggest problem is that i don't really know what kind of bike would be best for winter. On a blog about guy who drive his Sportster in winter said that bike with low center of mass is good for winter. Before that i thought that Dual-sport or offroad bike would be best but i don't really know anything driving in snow. So i've been thinking about older BMW or Ural/Dnerp, both are pretty cheap ~2000€, most Urals have sidecar but are known to be really unreliable. BMW should be reliable but Ural would be really cool. Did i say i live in Finland? So there could be -40ºC(-40 ºF Now this is an interesting challenge. I would approach this from a standpoint of "what bike will be better when it falls over" than "what bike will be less likely to fall over", if you get what I mean. A cruiser would be low, stable and predictable, but then when you did fall over on it, would be a pig to get upright in icy conditions, probably expensive too. A cheap dual sport could take some gnarly tyres and would be much easier to get upright, and be much less expensive when it went down. You can easily find a nice set of handguards to both protect the levers and shield your hands. A kick start for when the low temperatures kill the battery. Something reliable and air-cooled like a Honda XT400 would be my choice. The main disadvantage is the height. I'd consider (if you aren't extremely tall) getting a lowering link so that you could flat foot it. The Ural is awesome, and I'm strongly considering it for my next bike, but I'd spend the extra on one of the ones made in the last couple of years. The quality control is apparently much better and they are using modern, imported parts for things like brakes etc. Also you can do this to the new solo Urals, which gives me a funny feeling in my pants.
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Jul 20, 2011 13:55
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My bike is very twitchy at speed, the bars start to shake above 50mph, will a steering stabilizer help?
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Jul 20, 2011 19:44
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mattmofob posted:My bike is very twitchy at speed, the bars start to shake above 50mph, will a steering stabilizer help? Like throwing a bandaid on a severed artery. Wrong solution to the problem.
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Jul 20, 2011 19:47
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mattmofob posted:My bike is very twitchy at speed, the bars start to shake above 50mph, will a steering stabilizer help? What bike, tires, pressures, and suspension configuration?
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Jul 20, 2011 19:57
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skyteam st 125-8a I upgraded the stock knobby chinese 3.50-8 tires to Heidenau K75 3.50-8 directional street tires. I am running 36psi front and rear per the specs on the plate on the frame. I have the stock front shocks and I upgraded the rear shocks to stiffer shocks with a +1.5" swingarm.
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Jul 20, 2011 20:25
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mattmofob posted:skyteam st 125-8a One of these?  If so, I wouldn't be surprised if you're being brought down by lovely quality control. The longer swingarm isn't going to help things either.
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Jul 20, 2011 21:16
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50+ mph? On 8" rims? Best solution is not to ride that fast, I think.
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Jul 20, 2011 21:27
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Looks like this, I want to be able to go at least 60mph and be able to take one hand off the bars without crashing.
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Jul 20, 2011 21:31
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mattmofob posted:Looks like this, I want to be able to go at least 60mph and be able to take one hand off the bars without crashing. You might be able to fix it with a damper but you're going to have a hell of a time going over 60mph on one of those safely.
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Jul 20, 2011 21:35
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60?!? I want to see you in a sea of suv's...
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Jul 20, 2011 22:00
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Skyteam is glorious flower! It axle distance and suspends on a cloud to make father proud! Not bringing shame on family with more than 50 mph.
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Jul 21, 2011 07:56
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ReelBigLizard posted:A cheap dual sport could take some gnarly tyres and would be much easier to get upright, and be much less expensive when it went down. You can easily find a nice set of handguards to both protect the levers and shield your hands. A kick start for when the low temperatures kill the battery. Something reliable and air-cooled like a Honda XT400 would be my choice. The main disadvantage is the height. I'd consider (if you aren't extremely tall) getting a lowering link so that you could flat foot it. Didn't event about kick start but that could be great, i was thinking about building insulated battery box with charger and heater. Block heater would be easier built in liquid cooled bike, although i would also prefer air-cooled. Been looking some help from Finnish forums, found some Adventure touring forum where bunch people drive during winter. Surpassingly there nobody builds there bike to fit for winter driving. They just warm bike with blankets and fan heaters and change oil. I dream building Ural cafe racer, it would be really ridiculous.  Found guide. ːP
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Jul 21, 2011 12:27
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mattmofob posted:Looks like this, I want to be able to go at least 60mph and be able to take one hand off the bars without crashing. As suspension performance under braking is sort of a moot point with that bike, you could steepen the steering angle. From the looks of the frame this might be accomplished by just taking the triples off, inserting a lever and giving a tug... I am assuming, from the use-case you give that you are wanting to become the worlds cutest drive-by assassin.
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Jul 21, 2011 13:49
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Captain Kosmos posted:I dream building Ural cafe racer, it would be really ridiculous. So the idea with that is to ride between St Petersburg and Murmansk and back before Wagner's Ring Cycle finishes playing on the jukebox? :p
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Jul 22, 2011 04:15
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Suspension question, I'm pretty sure the suspension on my 2002 YZF-R6 is set for Fat gently caress  . It's hard as gently caress and I'd like to change it up a bit to make it more comfortable. Stupid question - so...I should set it to factory defaults first right? What am I losing by making it softer?
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Jul 22, 2011 18:39
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Crayvex posted:Suspension question, I'm pretty sure the suspension on my 2002 YZF-R6 is set for Fat gently caress Your suspension should be as soft as possible without bottoming or wallowing. Start with factory and tune from there.
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Jul 22, 2011 18:41
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DRZ400SM problems still. I might just start a thread for this POS at this point  . Dying when I crack the throttle, obviously running lean. I am pretty sure it is a vacuum leak at this point, changing jet sizes didn't do anything except foul the plug. The other day while riding through the rain (note: I'm not riding it in this state, I was just taking it home from the shop), I stopped for gas and the bike wouldn't start for about an hour, ran horribly until I let it sit for a couple days. Pretty sure it took up some water.I used the brake cleaner trick like I do on cars at work and as far as I can tell nothing around the intake or any of the vacuum lines makes a difference when I spray around them. I read it might be an exhaust leak but I don't know how to diagnose that on one of these; except for at home I exclusively work on cars & trucks and also never carbs. 400e motor, FCR + K&N pod filter, scorpion ti exhaust, high flow petcock. I should note the whole system worked fine on the previous motor, the only difference is a new air filter. I have no idea what to do next. I am looking at perhaps the oil cooler breather tank or whatever? Its filter is pretty dirty but I think it should still work. Should air be coming out of that line out by the air filter? Err umm what should my next step be?
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Jul 22, 2011 20:11
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Ola posted:Skyteam is glorious flower! It axle distance and suspends on a cloud to make father proud! Not bringing shame on family with more than 50 mph. TEAM SKY!
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Jul 23, 2011 03:25
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sirbeefalot posted:FYI on the second set you posted, I just got them today and they're not Ninja specific at all. They're just generically curved to fit 90% of sport bikes somewhere on the fairings. The surface that contacts the bike kind of fits within the Ninja's mounting area, although its a different shape. They also come with a three-wire lead instead of two, and have the wrong size bullet connectors. I'm still deciding if it'll be more work to kludge these onto the bike, or try and return them and get a pair actually made to fit. Let me know if you decide to go through with putting them on or not because I have a pair on the way.
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Jul 23, 2011 11:22
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On the ride home from work today, I noticed that the right bar end was missing. (2005 Honda CBR 600 F4i) Should I not ride until I get a replacement? The grip feels kinda weird, but not terrible. Buzzy at high speeds.
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Jul 24, 2011 03:12
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Went for a ride in the mountains today, roads were wet in places on the trip out we hit some real heavy rain on the way back. My 99 SV650 is acting funny and I'm not sure what it is. I noticed about 1/4 of the way through foothills parkway that the rear seemed to be moving around a lot. This was happening on dry and wet pavement. I stopped to check tire pressures and they were fine, a quick visual of the rear end looked fine. It's a weird feeling though. Be leaned over going through a corner and the rear tire just seems to wiggle around or slide over, I'm not pushing so hard I'm spinning up the rear or anything either. Right before I got home I went around a cloverleaf (downhill, right turn) and it was all over the place. I was taking it very easy because the ramp was wet and visibility was poor. Thinking back I'm not sure if I can remember it happening on left hand turns...I'm confused. Frances B Cat posted:On the ride home from work today, I noticed that the right bar end was missing. (2005 Honda CBR 600 F4i) Should I not ride until I get a replacement? The grip feels kinda weird, but not terrible. Buzzy at high speeds.
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Jul 24, 2011 03:55
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NitroSpazzz posted:It's fine to ride without the bar end, will just vibrate more as you noticed. If it bugs you pick up a replacement. Excellent - I'll grab one on Monday. Thanks!
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Jul 24, 2011 04:12
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NitroSpazzz posted:Went for a ride in the mountains today, roads were wet in places on the trip out we hit some real heavy rain on the way back. My 99 SV650 is acting funny and I'm not sure what it is. I noticed about 1/4 of the way through foothills parkway that the rear seemed to be moving around a lot. This was happening on dry and wet pavement. Check tire pressures first. Might have a slow leak.
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Jul 24, 2011 04:31
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Z3n posted:Check tire pressures first. Might have a slow leak. Yup low pressure, I feel like a dumb rear end for riding home like that. Made worse by me having a pressure gauge and CO2 inflator.
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Jul 24, 2011 16:28
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Synonamess Botch posted:DRZ400SM problems still. I might just start a thread for this POS at this point How much did you change the jets by?
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Jul 24, 2011 19:53
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traineehawking posted:How much did you change the jets by? They started out at (and were fine on the previous motor) a 45 pilot/160 main. I went in increments all the way up to a 55/170 before I decided it wasn't working. e: at the time I rode it through the rain I had gone back to the original sizes.
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Jul 24, 2011 20:10
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Is the needle graduated where you can move the clip up or down? That would adjust your intermediate response. Also water would likely cause the starting issue as you thought. Has the air box been altered? There's an opening on the top that like a snorkel and a big opening on the side.
traineehawking fucked around with this message at 20:31 on Jul 24, 2011 |
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Jul 24, 2011 20:20
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I have tried the needle from every position with no real difference. The airbox is completely gone, it has an individual K&N filter.
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Jul 24, 2011 22:11
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ReelBigLizard posted:Something reliable and air-cooled like a Honda XT400 would be my choice. The main disadvantage is the height. I'd consider (if you aren't extremely tall) getting a lowering link so that you could flat foot it. I'd probably suggest the CT110 in place of the XR400. Yes its slower, but if you're going over 50mph on ice then you'll probably get what you deserve (unless your name is Craig Jones, then feel free to hit 148mph). It's also lower to the ground and ridable one handed - which I learnt the hard way after hitting some black ice and busting my phone (amongst other things).
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Jul 24, 2011 22:37
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Synonamess Botch posted:I have tried the needle from every position with no real difference. The airbox is completely gone, it has an individual K&N filter. Get a stock airbox, start from there. I might have one floating around if you'd like me to check.
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Jul 25, 2011 00:58
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Z3n posted:Get a stock airbox, start from there. I might have one floating around if you'd like me to check. I have one with my box-o-spares but no filter itself. I tried fitting it a while back and iirc the intake side of the carburetor is a little too big for the boot to fit around. I can give it a try, but I am not sure why the intake setup would work fine on one motor and not another.
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Jul 25, 2011 01:05
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The FCR comes with a boot to fit the airbox, did you put the pod filter on? If not the PO probably tossed the correct boot.
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Jul 25, 2011 01:07
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