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TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Only when I'm having trouble with it.

Start you piece of poo poo!

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TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!

Slavvy posted:

braking into the turn and moving quickly from the brake to the throttle without any coasting between


this poo poo is so much fun on this:



If the rear isn't bottomed out by mid-turn, I'm not going hard enough.

tbf the rear shocks are garbage

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!

Slavvy posted:

I'd like to have a go on a monkey cause it's basically a Grom with rear suspension from the seventies.

Ohlin makes a really nice set of rears for ~$750, YSS makes knockoffs for any $350.
But eh, the bike cost 4k new. I'm not heavy enough to have it really bother me and really, I only ride it in town and it's not going above 60mph. I have no handling complaints.

But some people really like dumping money in them. Webike is a treasure for cool parts

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
By the time you install a 4V head on a Grom/Monkey engine, you need a whole lot of other supporting mods.
Non-stock BB cylinder with altered oil passages, oil cooler, high-flow oil pump, crank support bearing in the flywheel cover, a real oil filter, cam chain tensioner - for starters.

The 125 is a nice engine, but it seems to be at capacity already when it comes to reliable power.

TotalLossBrain fucked around with this message at 05:20 on Jan 2, 2022

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
how about this piston then, is it hosed? :downs:

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
My local dealer charges $35/wheel for a tire change and that's me bringing in just the wheels. They do it for free if I buy the tires there, which is good incentive and their prices are good.
But I have three dirt bikes that see regular changes between paddle tires and regular knobbies so I bought a changing stand and accessories up do it myself. I'm still getting drat sick of it and will probably just buy extra wheels soon.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Having rebuilt both Mikuni and Keihin carbs in watercraft for years, NEVER get anything but OEM parts oh God
The aftermarket diaphragms and orings are poo poo and the needles will start indenting and leaking immediately.

TotalLossBrain fucked around with this message at 15:54 on Feb 9, 2022

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
I'm glad to hear the situation is better with motorcycle carb parts. Years of lovely aftermarkets in the watercraft sector have really soured me on that.
And for clarification, "needle" in those carbs is a rubber/viton needle tip seated in a brass orifice. Heavy vibrations will tear up cheap aftermarkets and cause fuel dribbling within days.
There is no bowl. Manifold vacuum pulls the needle away from the seat, but it's supposed to seal above that point.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Based on my experiences with lithium about ten years ago, I'd take an expensive AGM over a cheap lithium battery. Bad welds/soldering and overall shoddy workmanship made for a very unreliable experience back then. Here's hoping things have improved because the weight and power density were magical.
Antigravity in particular was just getting started then in power sports. They had bad attitudes about warranty replacements and were much more expensive then. I hope they got the bugs sorted out because when it worked it worked great.

TotalLossBrain fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Feb 17, 2022

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!

Verman posted:

I think lithium makes sense in certain situations where weight or space (dirt bikes) might be an issue but going with yuasa is almost always the best option.

slight derail on my experiences with them: I was using them for freestyle standup jetskis, where weight savings are very important and using an AG LiFePo easily shaved off 10lbs for just a few hundred bucks. If that sounds ridiculous, it is. But stock Yamaha Superjets (the old 2Ts) used to weigh in at ~320 lbs or so. A carbon hull that's worth anything will reduce hull weight from 120 lbs down to maybe 60 lbs, all for only $7-10k!
With the best/lightest aftermarket equipment you could get the entire ski down to ~210-220 lbs.
So a 10 lb savings in the battery is fantastic.
But when you're riding in big surf and/or cold water, having an unreliable battery in an e-start only engine is a really bad loving idea.
And a 1000cc-1200cc twin engine with a direct drive produces a lot of heavy vibration. Add to that endless backflips and other heavy impacts on the hull and those batteries would break like nobody's business.
Probably understandable that Antigravity got tired of warrantying those.
I've opened up a couple of them and they looked like some dude with a soldering iron went to town with standard 123 cells and siliconed a fancy looking plastic case together.

TotalLossBrain fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Feb 17, 2022

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Maybe its a two stroke only thing but I have definitely seen pistons with pins in the ring grooves to keep the ring in a certain spot

It's critical to keep the ring gap away from any of the ports on the cylinder surface of a 2-stroke, that's why it's fixed via pin.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Anyone have a recommendation for a good set of 12 inch tires for wet Pacific Northwest riding? Pretty much just inner city riding up to 60mph at most. My OEMs are getting closer to needing replaced.

TotalLossBrain fucked around with this message at 14:35 on Mar 15, 2022

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
When I put my Monkey back together, I had one washer left over. It concerned me because the washer looked like a somewhat precision part and not just a washer you put on any bolt.
Turns out it belonged in the clutch and was 100% required for the clutch to work.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
The bike charges at the same voltage (~14.x V) as a car. As did all the jetskis, boats, and other machinery with charged 12Vdc systems I've ever worked on.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!

Jazzzzz posted:

https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-steel-motorcycle-lift-68892.html

start with that one, if you need fancier you can start looking at Black Widow / Derek Weaver / Atlas / Auto Lift etc.

I got the linked HF lift for free from my FIL's coworker. It's big, heavy, clunky, and I don't like how the front tire holder works. None of this would compel me too get a different lift.
I've used it with three different dirt bikes of different sizes and my Monkey. I think the biggest bike I had on it was a new KLX300R at about 300 lbs.
Not sure how it works with heavier bikes but I think the coworker serviced some Harley with it.

Most of my dirt bike maintenance happens on either a standard stool-type stand or a very small foot lift, though.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Does that mean these are torque to yield bolts?
That's about the only reason I can think of for throwing them out after a single use. If that's the case, I would replace them but maybe someone who knows what they are talking about can chime in instead of me.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Webike shipping is fast. They regularly beat US suppliers I order from (Oregon here)

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Yamaha stopped making the 2-stroke Superjet last year (I think?) after selling it unchanged since 1996. That entire time, it had dual 38 mm Mikuni SBN carbs with high and low adjusters.
But around 2008, Yamaha started putting cast metal caps over these adjusters. They're still there, just have to drill the cap. Probably for emissions reasons, but also drove the casual carb adjusters nuts

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Lol it's right in the name

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!

some kinda jackal posted:

Apropos of absolutely nothing, why does a single cylinder BMW G650 have twin exhaust cans?

Same with some 450 dirt bikes

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!

Slavvy posted:

It's literally just styling + bmw's customers don't like anything so vulgar as being able to actually hear the hydrocarbons being burnt like some kind of peasant grubbing about in a furnace

Sure, but why do this on say a CR450X or whatever, where weight is at a premium and also a selling point?


Edit: the googled answer is that some single cylinder dirt engines have two separate exhaust ports. One can per set

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Is there something like a chain stretch gauge for the various sizes of motorcycle chain?
For bicycles I have a handy Park Tools chain stretch go/no go gauge.
I've got 5k miles on this 428 sized non oring aftermarket chain. I've been cleaning and oiling it regularly. No links are sticking, but I can pull it rearwards away from the chain ring about a quarter inch.
I've got another 428 chain on a KLX140 that's rusty and starting to stick links. I usually get that cleaned up with kerosene, but i can pull that one even further from the chain ring.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Lol I've taken one of those apart before. It was a resistor and nothing else. I think it was supposed to attach to the battery or something.

Unless you're talking about legit 3rd party add-on ECM modules like a PowerCommander. These do alter fuel and ignition curves and work as advertised (and are often necessary for other mods like exhaust, intake, etc)
They can be plug and play if preprogrammed by the vendor. Sometimes you have to connect a computer to it to configure it.

I've got one on my kid's KLX300R. The bike is stock otherwise and this add-on improved acceleration noticably. More importantly, the exhaust no longer gets blistering hot which was the real pain in the rear end.

I have a Bazzaz (?) Fuel controller for my Monkey to enable the other modifications - pipe, intake, ported head.

TotalLossBrain fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Jun 21, 2022

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
If you do it just right you can use the probe tip to bridge the relay contacts lol.

intentional or unintentional :colbert:

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Lol

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Look for a 12V micro relay or automotive relay.

Something like this but probably less than 30 Amps: https://a.co/d/fwuuCnI

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Filling your tires with a mix of fuel and air seems like a bad idea

Why, so you can seat the bead with a lighter at the same time? Seems pretty useful to me :colbert:

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Just push that start button until the tire is inflated

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Suzuki specs a DID520DMA (114 links) for the VanVan. That chain is used on a bunch of other bikes, most of them small and/or old.
I don't know for sure if it's an o-ring chain by looking online. DID520STD is specifically non-oring but I can't find what the DMA portion of the part number is

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Yeah I got a beefy one that works very well, tried on 520 size. I'll try to remember a picture later

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!

Slavvy posted:

Only if you have like 50+ horsepower

You can use 2 for up to 100HP

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!

Slavvy posted:

Consider that the sprockets also wear.

Also idk where this 'measuring 20 links' idea came from but I've never heard of it.

Some bicycle chain wear gauges work like that. It's a go/no go gauge you insert at any one link and if the other end inserts into the chain cleanly, it's worn past a certain point.
I don't remember how many links it covers, but obviously it's a fixed number. Probably less than 20

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!

A MIRACLE posted:

interestingly my local gas station is one of the few in the state that offers ethanol free gas but apparently you aren't allowed to use it on the street due to lack of oxygen? content??

Who's going to check?

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
The B is for battery, M is for motor. Weird that it's swapped

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Speaking of bars... In my recent reevaluation of the aftermarket parts on my bike, I took another look at the handlebars. I added those a while back, so can't blame the PO for that one.
I spent about a half hour swapping it back to stock.
I hated it. My hands felt way too high and close together. I gave it 50 miles, then went back to the wide, low bars I got from Webike. So much better.

Stock:




The bars I like much better:

TotalLossBrain fucked around with this message at 22:55 on Aug 18, 2022

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
I'm barely 5'6", or 165cm. This is a nice, upright riding position for me.
You're correct though. It's like a 3/4 scale bike which is perfect for me as 3/4 scale human

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!

At work today there were only 3 bikes. A Scrambler, my Monkey and some BMW Cafe racer.

:smugdog:

thanks for the reminder though, I have two other bikes I should probably do that on

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
I've used bar mirror hardware to affix the OEM bar end weights to my aftermarket bars. Works fine.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
So what makes it bad, besides the subjective looks?

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TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Build a bigger, cosmetic shell around the modern helmet and gain bobblehead looks at the same time

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