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I'm doing a 2 week moto trip thru vietnam with a buddy in a couple months. I'm thinking it would be handy to have a motorcycle intercom thing like this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/2-x-Motorcycle-...27b35c2e79#shId I like this one because its cheap. Does anyone here have any experience with the offbrand ebay kit? I figure that it should be 'alright' as it likely shares the main components with name brand ones, and as long as it kinda works I'll be happy. We're gonna be riding through strange cities with bad traffic so I figure it would be handy if we got separated by lights or something.
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Jul 25, 2010 21:22
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Z3n posted:Pull the wheels off and take them to a local shop. Price out shops before you do it though, it should be around 20-30$ a wheel. Also see if they'll price match internet prices. Cyclegear does it for $20 I think off the bike. You could see if there is any local moto forums in your area that have local sponsors. There is a shop locally here (Houston) which does it for $20 on the bike or $10 off the bike for members from the forum if you get the tyres from them and - the prices are good too).
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Jan 3, 2011 23:23
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KozmoNaut posted:
My future father in law started off by telling me how dangerous they were etc when he found out I had one, then it turned into a conversation about how he and his friends rode accross europe in his youth and then he admitted he's been thinking about getting another bike lately. Though.. not sure how to tell him his daughter wants to ride too..
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Feb 1, 2011 03:08
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What do you all think of full coverage vs liability for bikes? I have an SV and it costs me 80$ a month for full coverage with uninsured motorist etc, but the deductible is $1000 and honestly Im starting to wonder about the worth. I've already dropped it once and done < 1000$ damage to it, so unless I completely write the thing off I'm not going to really ever claim it (the bike is worth about 3k) and if I write it off completely then I figure I wont really care about the bike cause chances are I'll be hospitalized for a while anyway.. Part of the reason I'm asking is cause I'm torn 50/50 between a VFR 800 or similar sports tourer (which is cheaper for full coverage than my SV???) and a CBR/GSXR/ninja 600 SS bike cause they just look so insanely fun. Problem is if I get full coverage on a 600 my insurance will go up 200+%, so tempted to just get liability on a ~4-5k bike but it just doesn't sit quite right with me for some reason..
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Feb 20, 2011 21:32
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Knots posted:I am buying a motorcycle. Well, I’m taking a safety class and then another safety class and THEN if I don’t think I’m going to kill myself I’m buying a motorcycle. sv650!
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Feb 22, 2011 22:52
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Quick question. When I hold the front brake and push down on the bars to compress the forks, there is a faint 'knocking' sensation. I don't recall this happening before I swapped the fork springs out a few days ago.. I thought it was related to the swap, but when I roll the front wheel up against a wall and push down, the fork travel is really smooth. It also doesn't happen when I just hold the back brake on. I also tested compressing fork with brake on while holding the fork stanchion and lowers trying to detect if there was any play back and front rather than up and down (like when bushings in mtb forks wear out) but could not detect anything. At this point I'm thinking its not related to the forks themselves, but there is anything else to look at let me know. So I took off the front brake calipers and checked the pads. One of the pads has about 3 mm play of movement up down in the caliper whereas the other 3 don't seem to have that much, so I am wondering if perhaps that it causing the knocking. One pad did get unseated when I pulled them off for the spring swap, I dont remember if its the same one with the play, but I'm pretty sure I put it back right. Any advice? This is a gen2 sv650. There doesn't appear to be any actual impact to braking or suspension performance.
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Apr 10, 2011 19:14
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I had my girlfriend look at the rotors while I was applying brake and rocking it back and forth and she pointed out that the 2 pieces of the rotors are kind of moving independently back and forth. The outside is locked by the brakes but the inside is moving slightly back and forth. Is that normal or are they toast? I thought the floating rotors were only meant to move side to side to allow for alignment to the brake calipers?Z3n posted:Sounds like head bearings that are on their way out. Check the head bearing tension, it can be difficult to detect under light load if they're just a bit loose. I've had play in brake pads in the calipers before, depends on the caliper design, I'd inspect the backing springs, as Rev suggests. Thanks - I'm going to check this out too - Googling how to do this suggests a front stand is needed and I don't have one so I'll be borrowing that again. Also I will check the brakes again as Rev suggested to check if I put it back together ok. Its strange that only 1 of 4 pads is doing it.
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Apr 11, 2011 01:58
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Question on body position. I went to a pretty tight track today and by the end of the day I was dragging my toes through every one of the really tight corners. As far as I can tell I was putting my foot on the peg as instructed, and hanging off. While I didn't hang off 100% right every time, I still dragged toe when I thought I was doing it right. The way the instructor suggested was to keep the ball of my feet on the pegs, toes tilted outwards in order to allow opening up of the hips and getting off the bike. I did a couple of test fittings with a friend and he said it looked OK, though I have no photos. Once it stopped bothering me and upsetting my line I just kept doing it, and I've almost ground through the left hand boot and it looks like one more day and its going to probably open up and expose my toes so I want to figure out the solution to this. The bike is an 06 SV650s with the stock foot pegs etc, I'm looking around on the internet and there are two opinions - one is buy rearsets/risers, the other is fix your body position. I really want to fix my BP though I will also order the riser plates as they are pretty cheap. Do you guys have any good photos or description of how I should be placing my foot on the pegs? I did try to keep them pointing straight at one point but it felt really unnatural trying to put my knee out and I didn't particularly like it. I can see on the rear tire that I've got about ~1cm of untouched rubber left on each side, so I figure I must have more lean angle to use. On my old tire I did actually almost get rid of that, so I'm pretty sure somethings up with my BP. Overall was a great track day - I actually put in a good pace (in Novice) and got me knee down twice - no matter how minimally it still counts!
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Jul 18, 2011 01:26
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What would I get more benefit from - Stainless steel brake lines for the front or more aggressive pads? Both are about the same cost but I can only justify one at the moment. The Galfer kit seems to be pretty well priced. I found on the weekend my stopping power seems to be a little underwhelming in high speed stops. I'd like more power from the front brakes, at the moment they are all stock and they were bled about 2 months ago. Any thoughts? Im thinking new lines, mainly because I like shiny things but if pads are going to have a big impact then I'll go that way instead. The current pads still have life in them too.
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Aug 1, 2011 23:58
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Z3n posted:How old are your current lines? Stock lines from 2006. Honestly I'm not sure which of those it was, I'll have to take it for a test drive and see if I can figure it out. Thanks.
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Aug 2, 2011 00:22
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Gnaghi posted:The stock mirrors might not look cool, but I wouldn't trade them for anything in traffic. I do the head check and everything, but behind and to the back sides they are awesome. IMO bar ends work great for standard bikes with regular bars, but sportbikes with low clipons that you're hunched over on are going to require you to look almost straight down to check. Silly question but could you just mount a cheap heat sink on it? Something from an old processor for example? I figure a big copper block with fins to dissipate heat would probably do pretty decent job of keeping temperature down into a more reasonable range if its getting hot enough that it hurts to touch.
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Aug 5, 2011 22:30
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Agrias120 posted:I've got a conundrum that I'm hoping I can get a little bit of input on. I posted in the SV650 thread, but thought I'd doublepost here for a little bit more exposure. Honestly I would check to see if you can find a cheaper engine. I've seen a couple for gen2s go for ~500. Also I'm not sure what your level of comfort and what tools you have but I'd look at changing the engine out yourself.. 800$ is a big chunk of change.
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Aug 16, 2011 02:27
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Agrias120 posted:I'm not very mechanically inclined at all, unfortunately. I'm just starting to cut my teeth with this stuff and, while I have the haynes manual for the bike, I don't have any tools or a garage (hurray for an apartment with street parking). I'll try to call around some more to find a better price on the engine, but originally $800 was the best price I could find, which was disappointing. Am I correct in assuming that there's not much else major that could really poo poo the bed on the bike if I go ahead and swap in a new engine? Id also suggest go look/post on your local forum if there is any amateur mechanics there. On mine there is a few guys who do quality work out of their garage but charge a fraction of what a shop would.
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Aug 16, 2011 05:04
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Ok I got a couple questions. I'm far from a mechanic and I like to think of myself as not completely mechanically inept, but this is all new stuff to me. I bought a new (used) bike (07 aprilia tuono), and have noticed an oil leak. I got home from work today and took off the tank, and saw that the oil breather hose thingy connected to the airbox had slipped off, so have put that back on. I then checked the oil level and it is over the max line. So my questions are: 1) Will overfilling the oil cause more oil to be pushed into the airbox? I know that a little oil is normal, and a lot can be sign of blow by as well. Im not sure if this qualifies as a lot - its not dripping to the ground, and while its spread around a lot that is to be expected when you have air going through there. The bike has only 6000 miles and the motors on these are meant to be reliable (rotax) so it better bloody not be the rings. 2) Whats the best way to remove the oil? I have vinyl tubing and a turkey baster. Im thinking I'll connect the two (if needed) and go to town sucking it out of the oil fill hole. 3) How the gently caress do I clean all the oil off the motor/throttlebodies etc? I have a can of degreaser, but I don't particularly feel like getting a hose to rinse it all off afterwards. I dont think those parts of the bike are meant to get wet? I don't know if i trust all the fancy electronics in there to survive.. am I being a pansy? The PO had the oil changed at an aprilia dealership last time, same one where I got the prepurchase inspection done, so I am slightly annoyed.
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Sep 21, 2011 00:09
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clutchpuck posted:Hopefully any part of the bike will survive getting wet - any interstate riding in the rain will soak pretty much everything. If you're concerned, blow the bits off with a leaf blower or hair dryer or something. I went and looked up the proper oil check procedure just now and I'm going to go try the check again. I went by the method I'd used on my old bike which is to get it warmed up and let it sit for a minute before checking, but on this motor is recommended to instead get it nice and warm with a 8-10 mile ride and then idle it standing up and check the oil level. So it may be OK. Either way I'll clean the engine off, I can smell it when it gets hot. It seems from some extra research this is not uncommon (to get oil in the airbox when overfilled) so I'm kind of glad.
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Sep 21, 2011 00:22
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I cleaned the engine up with a rag and got it fairly good. I decided not to spray water in there just yet as there is a fair few electrical connectors with open ends and a bunch of stuff which while I'm sure is waterproof I don't feel like messing with it right now. It was a royal pain in the rear end to get everything with the rag and I'm sure i missed a bunch but I got everything I could see. I will clean it up proper a little later I think, once I get all this sorted out for good. On a side note the clamps which were on the hose are stupidly weak, I knocked the other end of the breather hose off way too easily so that got a hose clamp too. When I get around to it (and buy more clamps) I'll probably replace a few of the others too. Im good for now though. I warmed the bike up (probably not enough according to the article z3n posted, but it did get to the fan turning on for a few minutes) and the oil level appears to be just on/under the max mark after all. Im going for a longer ride shortly and will have someone to hold the bike upright for me while I check it out. I don't mind a little oil getting into the air box but I may end up taking some out to get it a little lower as per that article if it spews a lot in there.
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Sep 21, 2011 01:34
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Saga posted:A bit of oil on the cases shouldn't hurt it. After all, a constant loss lubrication system is the traditional British method of corrosion prevention on big twins. Well this morning rode to work and there is some dampness but I think its the oil which already spilled working its way down. I think ill tape off the bits I'm worried about and then give it a degreasing. I'm not sure if its just in my head but the bike seems to be responding more smoothly to throttle now.
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Sep 21, 2011 14:46
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Saga posted:So how long was that wheelie? ahahah actually I haven't really given it any stick yet due to just riding around town and have kept the front down mostly (maybe once or twice..). I'm waiting for the weekend to go take it on some backroads and play around with it a little 
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Sep 21, 2011 15:28
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Hey Saga, Have you raised the forks on yours through the triples? I read some people recommending raising the forks to show 4 grooves on the forks, and yesterday hung out with a guy who was on his RSV and he had it set up that way. I'm thinking about dropping it to 2-3 showing just to sharpen the steering up a little bit as the bike tends to want to go a little wider than the SV I'm used to.
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Sep 21, 2011 15:32
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Z3n posted:Do a baseline suspension setup first...preload/sag, clickers. Then play with the ride height front and rear. I added a couple of clicks of rebound damping on the KTM and overdid it and all of the sudden it wants to run wide on corner exit. I'd only adjust front ride height if you had a measurable change in trail in mind. Fork height is an adjustment where a few mm makes a huge difference. Yeah I definitely need to get this done, I'm borrowing a front stand from a friend so I'll have the opportunity to mess with fork heights (and actually I'll be removing the clip on mounts the PO installed too as they're rubbing on the throttle cable) and figured I may do it if its a generally accepted mod. However you're right and I want to get all the other tuning sorted out first, and the new tyre too.
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Sep 21, 2011 19:47
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Saga posted:Exactly. I had the front landing crossed up in 3 gears this morning, so while the bike is very forgiving in stock trim I wouldn't start dropping the yokes down the fork legs without a fairly specific reason. That would really be asking for it! I'm kind of surprised that I haven't had massive unintentional wheelies yet (just a couple moments where the front lifted slightly before I closed the throttle), but I find myself hugging the tank on acceleration (cause its so drat fast compared to the SV..) and I still haven't ventured into the upper RPM range much if at all. I have been babying the throttle in traffic most of the time.. Are you pulling these wheelies in the 4-6k RPM range or higher? Is it just a jerk on the throttle and it goes? I'm getting the feeling that I am doing something wrong from your description of constant one wheel travel.. its making me feel slightly inadequate as a man.
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Sep 22, 2011 15:36
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That graph just clarified a lot for me. At 6000 RPM this bike is making more power than my SV did peak. Torque also significantly better. I am going to go out riding in the country this weekend so I am definitely going to have a proper play with it.
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Sep 22, 2011 17:14
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lowcrabdiet posted:Any tips for parking a bike? I read the Ninja250 faq and there was a tip about parking the bike facing uphill since you'll need gravity to help reverse yourself. I made that mistake once and thankfully my friend was able to help push me back up the incline a couple feet. You can also push the bike backwards without sitting on it. I do that a lot to move bikes in and out of my garage where its kinda crowded. Keep the bike in neutral, side stand down and stand it up. I use one hand on the bars and one on the tail section and just push it backwards or forwards and steer with the bars. If you need to put it down, let it sit on the side stand. Be careful not to drop it on the right side where there is no stand.
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Sep 28, 2011 15:30
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Pope Mobile posted:Well, here comes an "I'm a complete idiot" post: This is also the same reason why I wired up a relay for my USB charger. It cost something like $4 at an electronic parts shop plus another ~10$ for connectors, fuses etc and was super easy to wire in (a few good guides online if you're not familiar with how) . Its switched on/off by the license plate light and so only comes on when the ignition switch is on. Highly recommended.
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Oct 11, 2011 03:29
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Mcqueen posted:What temperature should a '08 Aprilia Tuono be idling at in traffic? It runs at about 170-180, temp goes up to 200-205 in traffic before the fans turn on. That seems high to me, but I've never owned a bike that actually told you what temp it was running at. I know coolant has anti boiling agents in it, but the radiator is damaged and while I don't think the flow is comprimised, I'm still a bit concerned. That's normal. I have pretty much the same bike, and it will sit at 172 f while cruising on the freeway, it seems within seconds of hitting traffic it will hit 208-210 and the fan comes on then it sits around 200-205 until you get moving again. The highestI've seen is ~212 in Texas heat stopped on the freeway - better than my SV which got up to 220+ a couple times. Edit - the manual tells you to start worrying at like 230-240 or something like that (I dont have it handy) and gives a procedure to cool it down (idle it at like 2000rpm to make sure coolant if slowing), so what you're seeing is normal. GanjamonII fucked around with this message at 17:06 on Oct 13, 2011 |
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Oct 13, 2011 17:04
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Im not being a dick... but that scratch is on the small side and even a close approximation of the right color would probably work really well. If it were on my bike I'd hit it with touch up paint pen or maybe just leave it. You could get similar nicks from stones being thrown up from the road or brushing against a bush parking it or something like that. Im sure whatever color-rite has will work just fine, same for getting it scanned. I would do whatever is cheaper.
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Oct 18, 2011 03:28
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nsaP posted:Got myself a smartphone, anyone here have recommendations for mounts? It'll go on a FZ6 so my first thought was a bar mount but I haven't really looked into it. I bought a waterproof 'Arkon' mount from ebay for 18$ and then a BurnsMoto USB power port for 25$. A generic 12v 30a automotive relay for ~5$ and another few bucks for random wiring, heat shrink etc and its a pretty good set up. The Arkon mount is OK quality wise. I was surprised. Its well mounted and won't fall off or move around even at 120+ mph on a mostly naked bike (on the track of course..), fairly solidly made (zippers feel cheap but work ok so far) and 'mostly' waterproof. I say mostly because after riding through a storm for 5 hours it did get wet inside. Nothing a plastic baggie over it wouldn't fix. I have an LG G2x and its a little big for the mount but works fine for GPS or music once you set it up. Hard to unlock the screen when its in the mount due to placement of button, may not be an issue on other phones. If you have a physically smaller phone then it would work great. You can work the touchscreen through the case too if you take your gloves off (or sew conductive thread into the finger tips). The burnsmoto usb power port is great construction wise. With the cap on its waterproof. I wired it up using the relay switched by the license plate light so it won't drain my battery in case I leave something plugged in. I also used an SAE connector on the end so I can unplug that and put on a trickle charger instead. I do have one issue with the set up which is that my phone will overheat occasionally especially if the case is zipped up all the way or its charging. I haven't played around with it that much to figure out why, but when it happened it was hot (texas summer) and the phone is in direct sunlight. It didn't seem to happen at night as much. I was able to do a 3 day trip and kept the phone alive using the charger and used it to play music through bluetooth for 2 of those days. My actual experience with using it for GPS has not been that positive. Fine for around town (but then I usually know where I'm going) and when I need it in the country I usually don't have fast enough data connection to make it useful. That might just be t-mobile though, AT&T seems to have far better coverage judging from my friends phones. If I was going into truly remote areas I would buy a dedicated GPS unit with maps pre-loaded.
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Nov 3, 2011 19:51
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:What's the cutoff between "suck it up, you need the leverage" and "drat this kills my hand" for the resistance of the clutch lever? I've had this trouble to a lesser degree on other bikes too, but on my '91 Ninja 500 I'm getting a really sore hand really quickly on my clutch hand. In a trip of a mile I'm already shifting into neutral at each red light to shake my hand off. Is there some way to make the clutch lever easier to use without sacrificing raw clutching power? Throttle control - I was taught to keep it steady. If you do group rides where the bikes are a few bike lengths apart on the freeway you can tell who can and can't keep a steady pace. A little annoying riding behind someone like that in the group because you end up having to keep slowing / speeding up with them to avoid getting too close or dropping too far behind and breaking the group up. I imagine that rolling off and on the throttle would also do the same thing.
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Nov 15, 2011 01:52
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SlightlyMadman posted:My commute includes an interstate off-ramp with metal joints between the concrete slabs from which it's made. When it rains, these can get ridiculously slick, but are really no problem as long as I approach them head-on. The problem is that there's one which, in addition to being in the middle of the curve for the ramp where my bike has to be in a lean, is angled at such a way that you hit it at a near-parallel angle. Even if I go all the way to the outside, and sharply curve in at the last minute, I can't even manage more than a 30-45 degree angle, so there's no way to come close to hitting it head-on. Well from what I remember from Twist of the wrist: 0. Speed - If it feels like you're on the edge slow down. Better to take it slowly than crash. 1. Throttle control. You should be rolling on the throttle during the turn, though I think in this kind of circumstance you are OK to hold it steady rather than rolling on. When you roll on/off the throttle you gently caress with the weight distribution which changes the available traction back and front. You want to keep the throttle on to keep the weight even. Keith Code goes into this in some detail and in his video you can see how they did various tests. 2. Move over on the bike to the inside of the turn. By putting your body weight to the inside, you lean the bike less which will help with the traction. You can move to edge of the seat or just try leaning your upper body if you don't do that already. Don't lean to the outside of the turn in an attempt to keep your body upright, lean to the inside to keep the bike upright if that makes sense edit - 3. When you approach the metal bit gun the poo poo out of it and power slide through the turn like a boss edit 2- dont do this I would suggest see if you can find the clip (or watch the whole thing) Keith Code has in his video on youtube - he has a bike with stabilizers (so that the rider can't drop it) which he runs through gravel/water etc and experiments with what works well and what doesn't. GanjamonII fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Nov 23, 2011 |
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Nov 23, 2011 19:26
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Had an awesome day riding today (15 hours from leaving the house to returning). The weather was COLD though. I'm very glad I bought some extra clothes just in case as I ended up wearing all of them to stay warm. We did have a detour to a motorcycle shop as one of our group had some tire issues, and then about an hour from home my bike suddenly cut out on the freeway. BOTH the springs on the kickstand of the Aprilia had fallen off and the stand had come down which killed the motor. Solution = zip tie! Couldn't get off the bike after that, but thats OK. edit - apparently in my frozen state of mind I forgot to actually put a question - are kickstand springs generic or do I need to go through aprilia to get them??? GanjamonII fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Dec 11, 2011 |
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Dec 11, 2011 05:59
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KARMA! posted:Every bike I've sat on does this, it is not indicative of anything 'wrong'. Both my bikes do this when they're cold. The SV seems to stop doing it as much when it warms up, or at least its less pronounced. The Aprilia does it every time. Though Aprilia's engineers also apparently hate the idea of me being able to find neutral at all. Ever. I am the only guy who sits at every light with the clutch pulled in like a dork while everyone else is chilling out layin' back and stretching. Maybe that is connected.
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Dec 14, 2011 00:19
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Could try use a length of garden hose or tubing to try isolate where the sound is coming from. One end to your ear, move the other end between different components..
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Feb 23, 2012 18:39
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Covert Ops Wizard posted:New rider questions here: You can put it into first when your speed is appropriate to put it into first (ie don't put it in first on the freeway). If you're slowing to stop at a traffic light, if you come up on traffic which is crawling but not enough for you to come to an actual stop, coming up to a sharp corner that you need to slow right down but not stop for etc. That hose looks like a overflow hose for your fuel tank. Edit - or overflow for something else
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Mar 1, 2012 23:42
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I want to go two teeth up on the rear sprocket, but I don't really want to spend 150$ on a new chain right now. The current set up has ~9xxx miles on it, the chain is still good from my observation and the sprocket on there doesn't have any noticeable wear. How bad would it be to throw a new sprocket on there without replacing the chain? Will it wear the chain faster? Or just the sprocket?
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Mar 15, 2012 20:37
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invision posted:You probably wont have enough slack on the chain to fit it going +2. From what I've read online it should fit ok. Its a common mod for this bike according to the internet. Though getting the chain over it when putting the wheel back on may be a pain in the rear end :/ thanks for the advice everyone
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Mar 15, 2012 21:16
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Sagebrush posted:Your chain doesn't have a master link? Good question, I don't know. I'll have to check into that. Last time I just slipped it off the side and while it was a bit of a pain to get back on, nothing a few minutes of cursing it out didn't fix. Invision, that is what I got from your last post. I spoke with the guys at the local Aprilia shop on it the other day and they seemed to think it would not be an issue. There is a lot of room to adjust the back wheel in. It's one down on the front sprocket too so that should help a little bit also. Meh I'll give it a go and if it doesn't fit I'll put the stock sprocket back on and order a chain.
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Mar 15, 2012 21:46
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Would y'all run this on your own bikes?  I ordered this and when I thought about installing on the weekend saw this. I dont think that I did it (I dont remember dropping it but I have hit my head a few times.. it looks like it was dropped on concrete and It hasn't been outside my house with wood floors since I bought it), but if this is something which can be cleaned up with a file and not cause any issues down the road then I won't be concerned about it. The place I bought it from has offered to return, but if its still serviceable...
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Mar 19, 2012 23:36
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Return it, the peace of mind isn't worth the risk imo. Ola posted:Yep, send it back. If I was on a trip and found that, I'd file it smooth and ride with it. But on a fresh set, nope. That was quick! I'll be doing this then.
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Mar 20, 2012 00:02
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I had the suspension adjusted on the weekend at the track and I think I should have gone back and gotten it tuned some more. On the street last night I noticed that I have a ton of brake dive now, more than I remembered. I remember the guy saying he'd softened the front up (compression I think) to smooth out some of the bumps. I'm guessing I didn't notice it as much on the track due to being out of my usual environment, speed etc, however it was pretty apparent riding around my neighborhood. I wish I had asked him to take notes on it. Another thing I did notice at the track which might be linked is the back wheel was locking up while downshifting under very hard braking, even when I blipped the thottle. I get the feeling that it didn't happen prior to the change, but could be wrong. Now the bike has a proprietary Aprilia pneumatically controlled slipper clutch-like thing which is just 'ok' from what I can tell on the internet. I had been expecting it to cover for me, which it has done in the past on the street without any issues. I'm thinking that the two are related - that hard braking combined with a decent amount of brake dive means the weight transfer to the front is significantly higher, and that the rear wheel was loosing enough traction that the pseudo-slipper clutch wasn't able to prevent the rear wheel braking loose. Is that sound or am I off base? I want to learn how to do this myself, and I believe that someone (Z3n?) posted up a suspension tuning pdf link a while back. I had it book marked on an old computer and lost it since, so does anyone know what I am talking about or can recommend a good link/book I can use? Also while the thought of trying to back it into the double apex corner at the end of pit straight was very appealing, I didn't want to end up like Invision did that day....
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Mar 20, 2012 20:52
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 07:12 |
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ChiTownEddie posted:Using my elite paint skills on a generic image... Looks like an oil leak from the valve cover?
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Apr 4, 2012 20:24
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