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OSU_Matthew posted:Currently it has what I’m presuming is the factory default yellow cartridge with a silver audio technica label. If it has an Audio-Technica cartridge, odds are you can get a brand new original stylus for it. Are there any model numbers on it? Swapping out the tonearm is audiophile tweaking type stuff, don't worry about it. As for headshells, it can be handy if you have different types of cartridges that you like and you only want to use the super fancy one for your absolute favorite records. Or if you have 78s (and a turntable that can run at that speed), since they need a special larger stylus.
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# ? Dec 22, 2020 08:39 |
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# ? Apr 17, 2024 20:19 |
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Someone else correct me if I’m wrong, but i don’t think you need to worry about bootlegs. The ortofon carts are commonly included with new tables and i bet the generic packaging is related to that. I also wouldn’t worry about much more than just the cartridge + alignment, belt, and pitch correction right now. Like they said, headshells are pretty much all the same and new ones are mostly useful for swapping carts easily. New tonearms are an audiophile upgrade that most people don’t do. You should be pretty well set with what you have once everything is tuned in!
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# ? Dec 22, 2020 13:09 |
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VladimirLeninpest posted:Someone else correct me if I’m wrong, but i don’t think you need to worry about bootlegs. The ortofon carts are commonly included with new tables and i bet the generic packaging is related to that. Yeah, Ortofon supplies cartridges to turntable manufacturers that don't make their own, Audio-Technica does the same. Sometimes this can create confusing situations in regards to model designations. The p-mount cart that I use on my turntable is an OMT-10, but it's really just an OEM/bulk packaged OMP-10, they're 100% identical. Any OM stylus fits on both and you can those new. The trick is that an OMT is usually half price in comparison to an OMP on Ebay. It's the same situation with the OM vs OMB. Same cart, one is just OEM/bulk packaged. I'm not sure if the same differentiation exists in the 2M line.
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# ? Dec 22, 2020 14:39 |
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Is there any recommendations for long term turntable storage? I know the belts will go, should I take them off or just leave them knowing I'm going to replace it in the future?
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# ? Dec 23, 2020 02:52 |
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Unknownmass posted:Is there any recommendations for long term turntable storage? I know the belts will go, should I take them off or just leave them knowing I'm going to replace it in the future? If you're leaving it for long enough its a concern you should take them off. Too long and they become a sticky mess you'll have to use solvents to remove, but we're talking decades here.
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# ? Dec 23, 2020 02:57 |
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Unknownmass posted:Is there any recommendations for long term turntable storage? I know the belts will go, should I take them off or just leave them knowing I'm going to replace it in the future? It doesn’t take more than a couple months for the pulley to leave a deformation in the belt. It can be subtle on a shorter time scale, but it can be properly bumpy if you give it a while.
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# ? Dec 23, 2020 05:09 |
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Shout out to the guy who wrote in the margins of the Onkyo Ta-2056 3-head cassette deck service manual and then uploaded it to hifiengine. There’s a problem with the bias pot on the front of these machines and he made sure to note where it was in the circuit and what was wrong. Now mine works perfectly
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# ? Dec 23, 2020 18:40 |
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VladimirLeninpest posted:Shout out to the guy who wrote in the margins of the Onkyo Ta-2056 3-head cassette deck service manual and then uploaded it to hifiengine. There’s a problem with the bias pot on the front of these machines and he made sure to note where it was in the circuit and what was wrong. Now mine works perfectly There’s a special seat in Audio Valhalla for those guys
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# ? Dec 23, 2020 18:47 |
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Ok Comboomer posted:There’s a special seat in Audio Valhalla for those guys Seriously. I was prepared to go through a audio signal routing exercise until i figured I’d at least test what he wrote first and what do you know...
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# ? Dec 23, 2020 18:54 |
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KozmoNaut posted:If it has an Audio-Technica cartridge, odds are you can get a brand new original stylus for it. Are there any model numbers on it? There might have been some numbers if I’d pulled the cartridge off, and I did see some replacement recommendations while poking around online (AT95 I think), but in the end I wound up getting the Ortofon Blue I found on ebay for 160. Not because I think I’ll be able to perceive any difference over the red, but because my monkey brain couldn’t let go of the thought of it being decently on sale whereas I couldn’t really find the red for much of a discount. I also picked up the blue aluminum SH-4 headshell because I found one for 30$ and because I thought it looked snazzy ~*~aesthetics~*~ VladimirLeninpest posted:Someone else correct me if I’m wrong, but i don’t think you need to worry about bootlegs. The ortofon carts are commonly included with new tables and i bet the generic packaging is related to that. Good to know counterfeit cartridges aren’t a widespread problem! I was initially concerned because the price seemed too good on the blue cartridge and I initially didn’t see the blue logo on the side of the cart (blended in on the pictures) Appreciate all your guys’ help and guidance! I’m really excited to get everything dialed in... there’s several records I recently picked up that I’ve been wanting to listen to but haven’t because I couldn’t get the pitch right and was pretty bummed out about not knowing what to do so I could enjoy listening again
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# ? Dec 23, 2020 19:00 |
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OSU_Matthew posted:There might have been some numbers if I’d pulled the cartridge off, and I did see some replacement recommendations while poking around online (AT95 I think), but in the end I wound up getting the Ortofon Blue I found on ebay for 160. Not because I think I’ll be able to perceive any difference over the red, but because my monkey brain couldn’t let go of the thought of it being decently on sale whereas I couldn’t really find the red for much of a discount. I also picked up the blue aluminum SH-4 headshell because I found one for 30$ and because I thought it looked snazzy That combo will work great and look very nice. Depending on the counterweight on your tonearm, you may have to add a small additional weight to the back of the arm, but that's very much a "maybe". Do you have the little white Technics alignment tool? You can of course use the protractor, but the tool makes it so much easier. If not, getting the cart square in the headshell and making sure there's 52mm from the stylus point to the part of the plug where the washer sits will ensure you match the standard Technics alignment.
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# ? Dec 23, 2020 20:39 |
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Welp, girlfriend busted my stylus. Any recs or should I stick with the Orfoton Red that got hosed up
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# ? Dec 25, 2020 01:57 |
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Hot Diggity! posted:Welp, girlfriend busted my stylus. Any recs or should I stick with the Orfoton Red that got hosed up Upgrade to the Blue? Otherwise I’d just stick with what you have, new styli aren’t too expensive.
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# ? Dec 25, 2020 02:03 |
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Hot Diggity! posted:Welp, girlfriend busted my stylus. Any recs or should I stick with the Orfoton Red that got hosed up I feel ya, man. If you were happy with the red and it fit your setup, a replacement stylus is probably best. I’m not an Ortofon-knower (by coincidence, not any conscious choice), but if you are itching for just a minor upgrade it’d be worth finding out (if, of course, you don’t already know the answer) if the Red’s product line is one on which the primary/only mechanical distinction is the stylus/cantilever combo. Fake edit: just glanced at the lineup brochure and that is the case for pairs of units in that line. In this case, the stylus is the lone differentiator between Red and Blue (unless you count color scheme.) I know nothing of the price difference, but if you think your setup is one that’ll deliver noticeably more joy by switching over to a nude elliptical, but only you know that. If anything, a refresher on the alignment and azimuth will probably yield a better result. Sources of empathy: a roommate from my past busted the entire cantilever clean off of my Adcom HC/E MC cartridge and my wife sneezed and dropped the tonearm on my old Thorens and bent the cantilever on a Goldring. I’d be mighty bummed if anything happened to either of my current carts. If anyone is interested in dropping the coin on repairing the Adcom you’re welcome to have it. Great sounding, high output MC, but I know that anything resembling the original cantilever would be no match compliance-wise with my arm and the thing would be all over the place, so there’s no sense in resurrecting it if I don’t have an existing application. Have a great time when you bring it back to life.
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# ? Dec 25, 2020 02:57 |
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KozmoNaut posted:That combo will work great and look very nice. Depending on the counterweight on your tonearm, you may have to add a small additional weight to the back of the arm, but that's very much a "maybe". I did not have the tool, but I do now! Plus or minus 4-8 weeks for shipping and handling with everything else floating through the mail right now. Shipping is so bad I only just got a record delivered that I’d ordered two months ago. It’s like sending presents to future me, except now me really really wants to listen to said record
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# ? Dec 25, 2020 07:10 |
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Extremely random question, but I’ve had bad luck with 3.5mm to RCA cables in the past and want a better way to connect a few things to my system (specifically an Activo CT10 and my Apple airport express). Are there any boxes that take in 3.5mm and output RCA or is this dumb enough that I’ll have to diy it? Mainly the cables are too lopsided and eventually the 3.5mm side starts getting loose and breaking the connection.
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# ? Dec 26, 2020 21:20 |
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VladimirLeninpest posted:Extremely random question, but I’ve had bad luck with 3.5mm to RCA cables in the past and want a better way to connect a few things to my system (specifically an Activo CT10 and my Apple airport express). Are there any boxes that take in 3.5mm and output RCA or is this dumb enough that I’ll have to diy it? Mainly the cables are too lopsided and eventually the 3.5mm side starts getting loose and breaking the connection. Hosa 3.5 to RCA cables are very solid and not very expensive. I trust them on critical duty. Specifically this kind https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032IBYY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_8955FbG3EAWEE?psc=1
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# ? Dec 26, 2020 21:38 |
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VladimirLeninpest posted:Extremely random question, but I’ve had bad luck with 3.5mm to RCA cables in the past and want a better way to connect a few things to my system (specifically an Activo CT10 and my Apple airport express). Are there any boxes that take in 3.5mm and output RCA or is this dumb enough that I’ll have to diy it? Mainly the cables are too lopsided and eventually the 3.5mm side starts getting loose and breaking the connection. Honestly you’re better off getting an inexpensive DAC of some sort (Schiit Modi at the top end, SMSL or FiiO if you want to go a bit cheaper) that has optical and USB ins. Airport Express has a fancy combi-jack that combines 3.5mm with optical and most digital audio players today will output via USB without much fuss.
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# ? Dec 26, 2020 21:47 |
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eddiewalker posted:Hosa 3.5 to RCA cables are very solid and not very expensive. I trust them on critical duty. This is a definite possibility. I saw these while browsing Amazon but eventually everything blended together and the the reviews for cables like this aren’t always great. I like that they’re not too expensive. Ok Comboomer posted:Honestly you’re better off getting an inexpensive DAC of some sort (Schiit Modi at the top end, SMSL or FiiO if you want to go a bit cheaper) that has optical and USB ins. This is also a good idea. I’ve thought about it before, but like the dac in the CT10. The idea of connecting both it and the airport though is very appealing and i also have a schiit mani so it’d fit right in. Thanks you two, I’ll probably get indecisive and end up ordering both.
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# ? Dec 26, 2020 23:03 |
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People from the Ridicule Audiophiles thread recommended I come here. Due to a death in the family, I’m now in possession of a Rega Brio 3 amplifier (which came with an RCA cable) and two Klipsch Synergy F-1 floor standing loundspeakers (with standard coppery speaker wire). I estimate they’re at least 10 years old, but appear in great condition. I don’t know much about this stuff, but I do know those are supposed to be good brands/models. I want to sell them, since they’re way overkill for my needs. But I have no idea how to price them. I checked on eBay for the amplifier, and one is listed at around 1100 CAD. No idea if that's reasonable. Thoughts? Eastern Canada, if it matters.
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# ? Dec 27, 2020 00:20 |
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Guys, can you tell me if I'm maybe missing something obvious? I just installed a pair of Klipsch RP-500M bookshelves attached to a Yamaha stereo receiver (R-N303). It's a 100W per channel pretty basic receiver, but it's my first stereo receiver (others have all been HDMI+audio home theatre type stuff). With my home theatre receivers, I've never had to dial the volume much higher than 20-25 to get to a loud level. On this thing, I'm having to dial it to 50 to be at a good listening volume. For my turntable, it's even worse, and I tried both phono in and line level as the table has a pre-amp. I checked all my wiring. The sound is clear and good, just I feel like I'm having to drive the amp far higher than safe. There's no impedance selector switch on the amp - just the terminals and a warning about using 8+ Ohm speakers (the Klipsch set are 8). I momentarily had it at around 70 and heard some distortion and quickly backed off. I think something is up, but I have no reference point on a Yamaha like this... I figure the volume # can be some arbitrary thing between manufacturers, but it must be stupid loud at 70 if it caused some distortion.
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# ? Dec 30, 2020 23:54 |
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former glory posted:Guys, can you tell me if I'm maybe missing something obvious? I just installed a pair of Klipsch RP-500M bookshelves attached to a Yamaha stereo receiver (R-N303). It's a 100W per channel pretty basic receiver, but it's my first stereo receiver (others have all been HDMI+audio home theatre type stuff). With my home theatre receivers, I've never had to dial the volume much higher than 20-25 to get to a loud level. A lot of Yamaha units have a mute function that only reduces the output by 20dB. It’s possible that “mute” is engaged and you’re having to push part of the line stage circuitry out of its linear operating area.
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# ? Dec 31, 2020 00:53 |
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Thanks for the suggestion. I checked and it's not in muting mode; toggled it in and out of it to be sure. I think I may have a dud receiver on my hands. I brought the speakers up to my Sony AV receiver and they're plenty loud at 15-20. I tried a factory reset and all that. Looks like an exchange tomorrow!
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# ? Dec 31, 2020 02:29 |
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Does it have a speaker selector? If you're set to A + B and only plugged into A it might run quiet.
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# ? Dec 31, 2020 02:44 |
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Yeah, it's got A&B, and I've tried wiring it to both A and B - same result. Made sure it's not in A+B as well. The dude gave it a bit of a rough toss into my trunk when I did the curbside pickup. Maybe something broke. Just seems weird that it sounds good at a super high volume. I wouldn't expect an amp to have some sort of component fail that just handicaps the output in a way that doesn't kill the sound quality as well.
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# ? Dec 31, 2020 02:53 |
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Did you clean the controls/rca jacks with deoxit yet? If not you could have some crap in some of the pots or switches. I have had similar issues and all it takes is a bit of oxidation in any of the volume/tone/balance/muting/speaker selector controls. Try fiddling with each control one at a time while playing music. If any controls cause static or volume changes you know you need to clean everything and can note which ones may need extra attention.
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# ? Dec 31, 2020 09:03 |
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In the realm of I should have taken this apart and looked at it before blindly shotgunning parts, turns out the MCS-6502 turntable has a few key differences between it and the Technics SL23 it’s based on. Namely the headshell is not removable. This means the cartridge gauge I picked up for needle alignment can’t slide on for dialing it in. Also the SH-4 Headshell I bought won’t swap in. This also means the Ortofon cartridge I bought is too heavy and I can’t get the tonearm balanced because there’s barely adjustability with the counterweight. I even removed the counterweight, took out the set screw, and scootched the weight back as far back as I could, but the new cartidge is apparently just too dang heavy. But at least I got a new belt and that was my chief problem. Well, that and the old AT-71 cartridge’s stylus appears to be cattywampused: At the end of the day I’m roughly 190$ of parts into a turntable that doesn’t want to take them. Do I just pop the old cartridge and new belt in, and sell this guy to put towards a new table I can use the Ortofon stuff with? Or should I look at buying a new tonearm and soldering that all in? I also have some lead wheel weights I could try putting on the counterweight to balance out the new cartridge
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# ? Dec 31, 2020 21:21 |
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drat, that sucks that they put a non-removable headshell on there, I'm sorry I steered you in a bad direction. You could certainly just put a new stylus on the cart and enjoy the turntable like that, but it is a bit of a dead end if you want to play around with other cartridges and such. I would get it to decent working condition and use it while keeping an eye on the second hand market for a better turntable, perhaps you can even find one that's missing a headshell.
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# ? Dec 31, 2020 22:09 |
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KozmoNaut posted:drat, that sucks that they put a non-removable headshell on there, I'm sorry I steered you in a bad direction. Not your fault! I really appreciate everyone’s advice in this thread! This is something I should have bothered poking at before buying parts, lol. Honestly it’s been a good primer for me to understand how this all works. Which, all the parts are still pretty good, so I think the thing to do is exactly what you’re suggesting, and buy a good turntable to pop them into and just get this one back up and running as is. I tried looking into tone arms since I don’t mind doing some soldering and disassembly work, but that doesn’t seem to be so readily a component and I don’t want to go too far down the rabbit hole with good money chasing bad.
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# ? Dec 31, 2020 22:53 |
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so my marantz 2270 has gone berserk. basically, it ran for about an hour, then the right channel went wild. like, i wasn't playing anything, the volume was up to whatever level i had it, and the right channel became possessed. it produced crazy distortion, mostly in the bass. i immediately turned the volume down, but even at 0 it was still producing demonry. i then turned the receiver off and it stopped. first off, i have to assume this is the receiver, right? my setup is: computer -> dac -> marantz -> speakers the fact the volume did nothing tells me it can't be anything before the receiver. there had to something about the connection, i think. in any case, what on earth could this be? i have one of those wooden cases that provides plenty more ventilation than the original case. it could still be overheating because of something else, i suppose. e: ok, just noticed something. i started it up just now, about 10min after, and it did it again almost immediately after turning it on. i then unplugged the right channel completely, keeping the left channel going. it's fine. what i've also noticed is that it's not starting up normally. normally, when i turn it on, it doesn't play sound immediately. it takes 10sec, then a literal 'click' happens, and then it's ready. now, the click is repeating every 15sec. e2: ok, definitely the receiver, i think. i unplugged the dac from the receiver, turned the marantz on, and the speakers still did it. need to go find an old speaker and make sure it's the receiver and not something weird in the crossover. e3: actually, i don't think it could be the crossover. that can't explain the clicking thing. plus i don't see how a crossover can produce such craziness. this is almost assuredly something with the receiver. abelwingnut fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Jan 16, 2021 |
# ? Jan 16, 2021 04:51 |
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lmao my god leave it off that click is the protection relay. it should click once a few seconds after powering on. anything other than that, and something is very very wrong. you need to get it repaired.
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# ? Jan 16, 2021 05:35 |
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abelwingnut posted:so my marantz 2270 has gone berserk. basically, it ran for about an hour, then the right channel went wild. like, i wasn't playing anything, the volume was up to whatever level i had it, and the right channel became possessed. it produced crazy distortion, mostly in the bass. i immediately turned the volume down, but even at 0 it was still producing demonry. i then turned the receiver off and it stopped. The “click” is the relay that connects the speaker terminals to the amplifier outputs. If there’s DC at the amplifier outputs beyond a predetermined level, the relay will prevent this connection from happening. When you turn the receiver on, the DC offset needs to come down (as the amp biases up) before the relay triggers. Something has given up the ghost on the amplifier board for the possessed channel. In a Marantz of that vintage you may well be best of starting with Zener diodes and input transistors. Do you have anything akin to a Leader LTC-906 or the like? The function you’re after is checking transistors in-circuit. Failing that, you may want to do some testing (comparing left channel with right) of impedance across zeners and checking for proper diode behavior when measuring B-C and B-E on the transistors on the amp board. Compare devices one at a time and look for any differences. Depending on your sure-handedness with probes, it’s also a sound method to check voltages on the output transistors of each channel and see when you identify a transistor that appears to be in a bad state (ie outputting full B+/-) and see if you can follow that issue back to a certain point. Report back. Ask questions if any of the above is unclear. The 2270 is pretty easy to service and we can figure it out without causing any harm to it.
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# ? Jan 16, 2021 05:50 |
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i know very little about electronics and do not have the tools to check any of that. i don't know how to solder, much less check voltages or starting probing or any of that. given that, and given what you both wrote, it sure sounds like i need to take this to someone who knows what they're doing. if anyone knows of anyone good in the nyc area, i'd love to have their contact info.
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# ? Jan 16, 2021 05:54 |
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Is it better to go with veneered board (MDF, cabinet ply, etc) or solid hardwood (oak or walnut) for making a new top case for a piece of gear? This would be for a Yamaha CR-2080 receiver from ‘78-79. Cost doesn’t really matter, the walnut and oak is more than cheap enough and veneer application sucks- I’m wondering if there are practical concerns. I see heat brought up, but is 3/4-1” walnut board really gonna warp from the heat of an amp?
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# ? Jan 16, 2021 14:35 |
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Ok Comboomer posted:Is it better to go with veneered board (MDF, cabinet ply, etc) or solid hardwood (oak or walnut) for making a new top case for a piece of gear? This would be for a Yamaha CR-2080 receiver from ‘78-79. Cost doesn’t really matter, the walnut and oak is more than cheap enough and veneer application sucks- I’m wondering if there are practical concerns. I see heat brought up, but is 3/4-1” walnut board really gonna warp from the heat of an amp? I don't see any issue using solid hardwood; the main reason manufacturers would have used laminate for cabinets would have been cost at volume; also it tends not to move around with moisture content the way real wood does, so it's more stable. If you get a peice of straight hardwood roughly the right size and trim/ polish it you're unlikely to have any problem. If you can find a piece of laminate in a suitable size that matches the rest of the cabinet or looks the way you want, it would probably be a cheaper option. Applying veneer to a bare substrate is not worth the effort when you can almost always buy a pre laminated board at the thickness you want and cut it and edge it yourself. Or go with hardwood. Also if you go the laminate way, whatever you use to cut it needs to have a finishing blade on it to avoid the veneer chipping out around the cut. I use 60 tooth blades on my table saw and 40t on my little 6.5" cordless circular saw for cutting melamine and laminated particle board. People say masking tape or sandwiching boards between two scrap boards also helps. Hardwood on the other hand should be fine with an ordinary rip blade and a bit of a sand or a light planing.
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# ? Jan 17, 2021 12:42 |
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I am totally broken. I went from turntables and vinyl to cassette deck collecting. I had a box of my old cassettes sitting around and cleaned off a run of the mill mid 90s Pioneer deck to try out. I got this thing years ago when a friend was cleaning out his spare bedroom. It worked but sounded uninspiring. Bought a top of the line Pioneer that converted the analog signal to digital, filtered the hiss and then converted it back to analog. It ended up working well but needed some adjustments Further down the rabbit hole, I now have three Aiwa single well, dual capstan decks. Two of them are from the late 80s and one is from the early 90s. Tearing down, cleaning and relubricating the tape transport isn't as bad as I thought it was going to be.
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# ? Jan 24, 2021 14:54 |
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Paperweight posted:I am totally broken. I went from turntables and vinyl to cassette deck collecting. you haven’t said the word “Nakamichi” yet, so you’re probably fine
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# ? Jan 24, 2021 14:58 |
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Ok Comboomer posted:you haven’t said the word “Nakamichi” yet, so you’re probably fine Shh. You wouldn't want to wake the Dragon.
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# ? Jan 24, 2021 15:16 |
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The Aiwa decks are not as popular as the Naks or Sony decks and go for less. The best deals are to be had when the belts go bad and they ALL go bad after 30+ years. They also made a couple rebadged decks for Carver that are good. They have very low wow and flutter specs for belt driven decks due to the dual capstan design. That being said, to hit their low wow and flutter specs, they have to have good belts. There was a decent but expensive US seller of belts that turned into a black hole for money when the original owner died and the daughter took over. Now, the most reliable seller is Fix Your Audio in Slovakia. I ordered from him and he is good to deal with. I have to fix one of these transports to get a chance to test the belts out. It takes some careful work to clean the gooey old belts off first and clean and reapply grease for plastics. I highly recommend the Molykote EM-30L for use on plastics, rubber and metal in any and all hi-fi gear with moving parts. It is PAO based and won't shrink or swell 30 or 40 year old plastics and it was designed specifically with plastics in mind. It has no silicone to make switches and contacts oxidize and go bad and has a long service life and won't dry out and harden in a short span of time. I've been looking for something like this stuff for years and it was only pointed out by a former British DOW lubricants engineer in a post on Tapeheads. It is very hard to come by outside a commercial factory setting and there is only one seller (a garbage disposal distributor in NJ of all places) of small quantities in the world. There is one seller for the EM-50L in Germany but they will not ship to the US. Most distributors will not sell you this stuff in quantities under 32-40 pounds minimum, if they have it. !00% synthetic compressor oil in ISO32 or SAE 10W is probably about the best you can get for capstan bearings. It does not contain the additive package of motor oil like detergents. Belts are way easier to find versus broken gears on direct drive decks. Now the pinch rollers? There is one German eBay seller with a reel to reel and cassette deck shop. He apparently hand makes them in house and wants a small fortune for them. He will of course, not ship to the US. What did we do to the Germans?
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# ? Jan 24, 2021 17:25 |
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# ? Apr 17, 2024 20:19 |
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Ok Comboomer posted:you haven’t said the word “Nakamichi” yet, so you’re probably fine I’ve got an LX-3 that needs a new home. It works, but it needs more of a cleanup than most things I cleanup in the sense that it stinks (to an almost impossible degree) of the cheapest cigarettes smoked by the ICP-listening denizens of Flint, MI. I got a ridiculous deal on it (had to recover some incredible stuff from a mix tape an old friend made in the late 90s) but just couldn’t make it a high enough priority to get it on the bench, scrub everything down, and tune it up. Even the box stinks (worse than the deck, actually, as the deck had been in the box for nearly two decades prior to me tripping over it. The LX-3 has been in a dark corner of my house, wrapped inside two garbage bags for a couple years now.
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# ? Jan 24, 2021 20:32 |