|
sanosuke21 posted:Hey all, just bought myself a sweet Bogen receiver for 12 bucks from a thrift shop. The model is a TR100X, which is from the late 60's (I've seen an ad for it from 1967). It works, gets a great fm signal, but I'm not quite sure how to hook multiple speakers up to it. I've been able to hook one up and get sound out of it fine. I am not familiar with vintage receivers and I am afraid to screw things up by screwing and unscrewing the stereo wire contacts in an attempt to get sound out of it. If anyone is familiar with this model, any help with how to correctly hook speakers up to it would be greatly appreciated. I do not have a digital camera, otherwise I would take a picture of the back of it. Thanks! It would help if we knew what sort of connectors you have for the speaker hookups and what they are labeled. My guess based on other Bogen gear of that vintage is that you have screw terminals, possibly with different terminals for different speaker impedances (4, 8, 16 etc.).
|
#
¿
Jun 24, 2010 23:04
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 23, 2024 13:11 |
|
|
LooksLikeABabyRat posted:Minor trouble shooting help? Might just be a dirty switch or pot. Is it better/worse if you move any of the switches/knobs around (even ones that don't seem relevant)? If so, a cleaner like Deoxit will definitely fix that problem.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 20, 2011 03:34
|
|
|
Hippie Hedgehog posted:I don't really have the facilities to do that. What would I need? That brush plus some soap and water is really all you need. Wet the record, being careful not to get any water on the label. Get a little soapy water, dish soap works fine, and dip your record brush in it. Go over each side in a circular motion a few times. Rinse the record, let it dry, and that's all there is to it! There are definitely fancier solutions, and I have no doubt that they produce superior results, but I've had good luck cleaning records this way. Note that you might also have physical wear on the records. Vinyl is somewhat soft, and if it was played with a very cheap or mis-aligned needle the record surface will have been worn down. Unfortunately there's nothing you can do to fix that.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 25, 2011 01:26
|
|
|
Peacebone posted:I have an pioneer sx-770 blackface model and i currently have some cheap sony bookshelf speakers plugged into the A channel. My parents just moved and they found a no name subwoofer probably from some 5.1 surround sound dvd box set thing. I was wondering if I could plug the speaker wire into the B channel or would that be a bad idea. Hard to say without more information. Some subwoofers are set up to take speaker-level inputs and some aren't. If the sub has inputs for bare wire, especially if they are labeled with the word "speaker" in some fashion, it's probably okay, but no guarantees. Is there any information on the sub at all? Can you take a picture of the inputs?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 25, 2011 01:31
|
|
|
whereismyshoe posted:Other than the obvious Klipsch options, what other speakers out there are considered to be good and highly efficient? I have a Fisher tube amp and would like to make the best of it, but don't really have the $$$ to fork out for Cornwalls or Khorns or anything. Klipsch has made quite a few speakers that are both efficient and affordable. I have a pair of KG4s; they're plenty loud and are of good quality.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 31, 2013 18:35
|
|
|
idoliside posted:I have a small question about Vinyl outputs. I have a Sony deck with a USB output. I've run the phono for ages but tried the USB for the first time through the computer. It sounds good but does anyone know if this is equal to the phono outputs? Does the computers input compress anything? Probably no compression or other fuckery, the USB output should be directly converted to digital after the preamp and RIAA curve.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 10, 2014 21:47
|
|
|
I just lucked into a very expensive record - I mean VERY expensive, like over $1000 - but I'm not sure how to proceed. I'd like to rip it before I sell it, and I have a reasonably high quality stereo setup (Pro-Ject Debut III w/Ortofon OM10 -> Harman/Kardon 3490 -> Edirol UA-5) but the record is fairly dirty and I'm really nervous about cleaning it. I've cleaned a ton of records before, and with good success, but using tap water and dish soap just seems too daunting in this case. Similarly risky things like the wood glue technique are right out. Should I start hunting for someone with a VPI machine or are there better high-quality methods? Obviously I don't mind spending a few dollars on this, but I'm not going to buy a record cleaning machine just for one LP.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 25, 2014 04:17
|
|
|
BANME.sh posted:Don't bother sharing what the record is, or anything! I would but given that I'm going to sell it I'd really rather not tie it to my identity here. Let's just say that it was a '70s free jazz private press, and the record and packaging were so innocuous that the shop had no idea what they had.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 25, 2014 04:43
|
|
|
strap on revenge posted:Ask your local record stores if they have cleaning machines. One of the ones near me does it (for $15 a disc though Thanks, this was a good suggestion. The record store I talked to doesn't have a cleaning machine but they were able to put me in touch with someone who does.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 26, 2014 18:25
|
|
)
|
TomR posted:I got a radio. Very cool! Anything that old is definitely going to need replacement capacitors. Check out http://antiqueradio.org/recap.htm
|
|
#
¿
May 3, 2014 16:28
|
|
|
TomR posted:Thanks for the link. I'm almost afraid to start taking it apart. I think this thing is only worth maybe $100, but I don't want to ruin it. Not at all a surprise about the hum, either your detector tubes or your preamp section aren't getting the correct voltage because your capacitors are shot, and the amplifier section is amplifying hum instead of amplifying signal. I would only be worried about resale value if I was trying to flip this. If you get it working, the personal satisfaction value is going to be very high. Even if you don't decide to restore the electronics, if you can find a replacement knob and clean up the exterior, radios that size make wonderful decorative pieces. Can you pull the "face light" out of the holder? It should just twist out, and part numbers will be very helpful for figuring out what a replacement might be. With that many wires running to it, it might actually be a tuning/reception indicator, something like a 6E5 or 6AF6 tube. But honestly, that would be the last part I would worry about restoring if you want to have this radio be functional.
|
|
#
¿
May 3, 2014 19:32
|
|
|
TomR posted:I'm not flipping it. I don't even know how I would sell it. Who wants an AM radio? I'm fixing it because I like the way it looks. You don't just have an AM radio, you have a shortwave radio! It looks like you've got coverage on some bands that are still used. The top one especially, ~6MHz, will probably pick up quite a few stations at night. Usually the best way to work on the electronics is just to rotate it 90 degrees - lay it down on either the left or the right side, whichever seems more appropriate, and you'll probably then have easy access to the underside. The 6G5 points to this being a little bit later radio, but that's definitely a tuning indicator. The face will be brighter or darker according to whether or not the radio believes that you have tuned a valid signal. Is it in a socket? Most of them were, but I suppose it's also possible that they were directly wired. Be careful wiping down the tubes. The dust and dirt on them doesn't impact their performance at all (unless it's really bad, and it doesn't look like that's the case here), and unless they were run for a very long time they're probably still OK. Most tubes had white printing on them, and the fact that it was on glass makes the printing very easy to accidentally wipe off if you press too hard. Use a soft touch.
|
|
#
¿
May 3, 2014 20:03
|
|
|
TomR posted:My parts came in and I'm almost done sanding and stripping this thing. This looks absolutely amazing. You should seriously consider starting a thread just for this restoration.
|
|
#
¿
May 9, 2014 21:24
|
|
|
TomR posted:The knobs for my old radio came. Now it looks complete. I also got a new magic eye tube and its much brighter than the old one. I'm pretty happy with it now. Very cool, you should post more pics.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 3, 2014 19:11
|
|
|
I just picked up a Kenwood KR-V87R receiver from a friend. It had been abused by college students for years and needs quite a bit of cosmetic work, but apparently it was TOTL in '88-'89? Can anyone confirm that? From what I can find it is 2x80WPC, not sure about the surround channels. It has the original version of Dolby Surround as well as a built-in spectrum display and defeatable 7 band EQ, plus two composite video in/out channels.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 10, 2014 23:19
|
|
|
TooLShack posted:I finally found one. You might want to spend some time trying to figure out why the fuse blew before you turn it on. Fuses don't just blow for no reason, and that may well indicate other failed/failing components.
|
|
#
¿
Aug 31, 2014 19:28
|
|
|
TooLShack posted:Yeah it's headed to the tech tomorrow, I let him sort it out, I never turned it again with a replacement fuse. While working on the MAC a random screw fell out from it, so wondering if it was lodged somewhere and shorted the unit out. That's a reasonable explanation, but I would still wonder where the screw came from! I had someone try to sell me a Macintosh receiver with a cracked faceplate recently and while the price was right, the damage caused me to wonder what else was wrong and I decided to pass. I suppose it didn't hurt that I was still able to get a bunch of other good pieces from him, including Ampex AG-500 and Akai X-5000W reel to reels. Does anyone have a source for the Sony XA7ES stabilizer? It seems to be unobtainable from Sony or any of their parts distributors. I don't even necessarily need the one specific to the XA7ES, but I'm not sure which other models are or aren't compatible.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 2, 2014 08:16
|
|
|
MMD3 posted:Okay, I'm on the hunt again for a vintage stereo receiver and probably some vintage speakers to pair with it for setting up my turntable in our living room. Ideally I'm looking at refurbished 1970's Sansui, or Marantz, Pioneer, etc. If you can get lucky maybe you can find a Pioneer SX-780 or the like at a thrift shop? This is assuming that you live in a big city and have a number of thrift shops you can visit on a regular basis. A pair of Dynaco A-25s would be ideal for that sort of setup but again, at this point you'd have to be extremely lucky to find them at a good price. If you're concerned about looks over functionality and you want high-class '70s style, keep an eye out for B&O stuff. If you're concerned about sound quality over style but you still want the '70s look, get a Pioneer amp/receiver and keep an eye out for older Klipsch speakers.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 21, 2014 02:08
|
|
|
Frobbe posted:EDIT: a quick test showed that the soundcard in my netbook outputs vastly higher quality than my Sony Xperia z1 compact and iPhone 5C. How weird. it's also much louder, though i'm not sure that's a good thing. DACs are weird things at this point. Decent quality chips are essentially the same price as total crap, and I assume that contracts between manufacturers dictate much of what chip goes into which device.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 22, 2014 00:27
|
|
|
SnakePlissken posted:Which turntable? We've obviously got some folks that really know a lot about this stuff here. As far as cleaning your needle goes, most manufacturers of higher-end needles tend to recommend a soft fiber brush. Compressed air has the potential to knock the needle out of alignment, especially at full power, and I wouldn't recommend it. I've seen folks who are concerned about very dirty needles talk about using a magic eraser pad on the needle, extremely gently, but I'd still be worried about damage from that. At the least you are going to significantly shorten the life of the needle that way. Most folks who play a lot of dirty/scratched records tend to have two different turntables, one for clean vinyl and one for dirty. That's the case at the shop where I work, and I've started to do that at home too. No sense damaging a $100+ needle with a lovely $3 record.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 18, 2014 02:59
|
|
|
I recently inherited a pair of EPI 201s and they're big. And when I say they're big I don't mean, "oh, these make my large-ish bookshelf speakers seem small," I mean these things have some size on my Klipsch KG4s. Unfortunately I don't have any pictures right now because they're in storage, but the page of the guy who restores them is here: http://www.humanspeakers.com/e/epi201.htm I got a brief chance to clean the worst of 30 years of dust off of them and test them (with a Lepai 2020, not nearly enough power) and they seem basically fine. I'm sure I'm going to replace the unnecessarily complicated crossovers; I suppose having the option for these to be 16 ohms was novel when you wanted to crank the hell out of your 20W amp but I have plenty of stable four ohm power to give them now. I suppose my question is, how on earth am I going to deal with trying to get reasonable reproduction out of a speaker with an angled driver? For reference, with the grills off they look like this:  The front is flat, and the top is angled downward at maybe 30 degrees. The idea, according to the manufacturer's blurb from the web page linked earlier, is that you put them flush against a wall and they bounce sound all around your room. So great, I have to figure out how to deal with gigantic Bose 901 wannabes. I need some guidance here. Options: -gently caress it, dump 'em, who cares, it's not like these were nice speakers or anything. (They definitely were.) -Disconnect top woofer and tweeter. This is not ideal, the top woofer would still work as a passive radiator. -Wire top woofer and tweeter as a separate speaker so that they could be used separately for room EQ purposes? This would require a 4.0 setup in room EQ software, right? -??? -Enjoy them as they were meant to be listened to (comedy option)
|
|
#
¿
Oct 20, 2019 06:10
|
|
|
Sorry, just catching up here...KozmoNaut posted:I used an OM5E on my 1210 Mk 2 and it was drat good. I'm using an OMT10 (P-mount) on my SL-QD33 now, and it's a real peach. It's hard to go wrong with Ortofon, in my experience. Indeed. I have Super OM10 and OM20s and I can't say enough good things about either. KozmoNaut posted:All of the higher end 1200 clones and derived/similar models are good enough that the difference is basically just some numbers on a spec sheet. You're dragging a pointy rock through a plastic groove, not doing rocket surgery You're doing a little bit too much hand waving here, but I'll grant you that you pretty much can't go wrong buying a 1200 or a near clone. The choice of cartridge/stylus is probably more important than which decent 1200 variety you buy. KozmoNaut posted:I went from a crappy belt-drive Thorens, to an SL-1500 (direct drive, no quartz), to an SL-1210 Mk 2, to a CEC DD-8200 (direct drive, no quartz) and now I'm deciding between the SL-QD33 (full auto, quartz) and a JVC QL-A2 (auto return, quartz). Aside from the Thorens, they were/are all great, no difference in sound quality when using the same cartridge and preamp. You are considering a p-mount, why? Ease of setup? Nothing against the SL-QD33, I actually just fixed up and sold one the other day, but I would think after owning an SL-1210MK2 that would seem like a step down. I recently got an SL-1700MK2 and for what I expect from a turntable it's the best of all worlds. I can use a standard headshell so I can use a standard cartridge, setup is straightforward, it's quartz, it's auto-return but there's a button to turn it off in case I want to hear a runout groove, and just for giggles the cueing is motorized (I did have to replace the cueing belt, it was readily available on ebay and an easy install). Oh, and did I mention that even though it's direct drive it's a true floating suspension? They can be had for fairly reasonable prices because the DJs couldn't care less about them and they're way too auto for the hipster/DIY folks.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 20, 2019 08:32
|
|
|
petit choux posted:Anybody have a good lead on where I can obtain some of this tinselly tweed they always seemed to use back then? The tweed on mine isn't looking quite this good. Googling "tweed gold grille cloth" brought up a whole bunch of options. The guitar amplifier folks will keep this sort of fabric in production approximately forever.
|
|
#
¿
May 16, 2021 23:19
|
|
|
evobatman posted:I messed around with recording from Spotify to minidisc via optical on the Chromecast Audio yesterday. Turns out it does not separate tracks like playing from a CD player does. Wasn't there some sort of explicit signaling from the CD player to the MD recorder in order for that track separation to work correctly? Or was it just detection of complete digital silence? It's been a really long time since I've had to deal with any of this. Also lol at recording from a lossy digital audio source onto a lossy digital audio medium. You might as well just encode an MP3, then reencode that same MP3.
|
|
#
¿
May 19, 2021 16:19
|
|
|
evobatman posted:Would you have preferred my SACD to cassette tape setup? Spotify to MD:  SACD to cassette:  24 track master recording downmixed directly onto an 8-track with the pressure pad missing: 
|
|
#
¿
May 19, 2021 20:41
|
|
|
Don Dongington posted:Oh, by the way, that old JVC JL-A15 is one of the better turntables we've come across. With a cheap AT95 cartridge, it sounds brilliant, probably the second best table we have after a Micro-Seki MB-10. I have no doubts it'd get whupped by a 1200, but I expect you could probably find one of these a lot cheaper. You're seriously debating the merits of a turntable that was ~$100 new in 1978 (the Micro-Seki you mentioned) versus a JVC that couldn't have retailed for much more? Versus a 1200??? I would certainly hope you could find either of those for "a lot cheaper", I'd be ashamed to sell a restored one for more than $100. Look, in all fairness I'm not here to poo poo on anyone enjoying a console stereo, but pretending those things are actually producing quality audio by any definition of the term is just silly. Even fully restored back to original condition you couldn't get better sound out of something like that than you could get out of hooking your phone up to a modern low-end guitar amp. The reason to enjoy a vintage console is as a fun piece of retro furniture, and any noises that it happens to produce are just a cherry on top.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 4, 2021 19:03
|
|
|
TooLShack posted:Square woofers are dope! I've never seen a square woofer outside of car audio. Those things are designed for "MAXIMUM SURFACE AREA = MAXIMUM BASS OUTPUT plus it looks cool" and nothing else.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 10, 2021 14:10
|
|
|
DoesNotCompute posted:high efficiency, reasonable quality, reasonably priced coax drivers Low cost, quality, performance: at best, pick two. This applies to just about anything, not just coax speakers. I'm not aware of any modern coax speakers outside the car audio market and the super high cost "we'll try anything" market. Everyone does individual speakers and crossovers for a reason.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 10, 2021 14:15
|
|
|
DoesNotCompute posted:Beyma 15CXA400ND The spec sheet doesn't look too bad but 800W of power handling? What is the market for this thing? It definitely isn't restoring vintage console stereos. quote:B&C and Eminence seem to make quite a few options as well. If you can post links to individual models you're considering we can at least compare them against each other. quote:I feel quantifying "low cost" is important in that I mean $200-$350 is what I'm assuming I'll probably spend as opposed to frightening $900 RCF drivers. Whoa... $200+ on a single driver? For what is almost certainly a budget 6L6 amp? At that point I'd just spend ~$100 on a vintage coaxial on ebay and call it a day.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 10, 2021 15:22
|
|
|
BigFactory posted:No, I think you picked the right thread. Cool project. Yeah, I want to clarify that I've done some hating on console stereos in my time but "I just want a cool piece of furniture that can play over bluetooth" is the right mindset to take with a project like this. I truly am looking forward to seeing how it turns out, and I don't want it to involve an unnecessary amount of money.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 10, 2021 15:57
|
|
|
Crime on a Dime posted:calm down twisty I don't see anyone else even trying to address the totally reasonable questions about a console stereo.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 11, 2021 13:03
|
|
|
DoesNotCompute posted:I do have a tendency to overspend on things that I think are cool even when it's completely unnecessary so I appreciate a little reasonableness being encouraged. For reference I won't be ordering a driver until the rebuild on the power section is done and I can assess what's worth putting on the other end of it. I think one of the more important things here might be to make sure you have a reasonable impedance match between your amp and whatever replacement driver you get. Are the original drivers 16 ohms, or 8, or something else? Older tube amps are much less forgiving about impedance mismatches than a modern amp. quote:Fane Sovereign 15-300 TC. ~$100, 50Hz - 15kHz, and if the impedance matches I'd say it's a reasonable replacement. quote:I would be fine with multiple drivers for this project but the layout of the cabinet makes things tricky as the original design had all the highs basically pointing at your shins, the coax driver idea at least got things to crotch level. Okay, that makes more sense to me in terms of why you were looking at coaxial drivers. If you wanted to get creative you could make a shim in order to angle the driver upwards but that's not necessarily an easy task and you'd definitely want to make sure that everything was still sealed properly. On the other hand, are you primarily going to be listening to this standing up or sitting down? If the answer is the latter I wouldn't worry as much about trying to get the high frequencies up as high as possible. Getting a coax driver obviously also removes any need for any sort of crossover network - if you were going to replace all of the existing drivers you'd either need to make sure they made sense with the existing crossover or build an entirely new one, and then we're getting into speaker design territory which is a deep rabbit hole.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 11, 2021 13:19
|
|
|
DoesNotCompute posted:just bought a pair of first gen Klipsch Heresy's I'm always curious about what attracts people to those speakers. They have basically no output below 60Hz so for the money I feel like you could do a lot better, even within the Klipsch lineup from that time period. Don't get me wrong, I love Klipsch, but I feel like the Heresys require a lot of "I know they have shortcomings, but but but..." from their fans. quote:rebuilding an Akai PS-200M power amplifier Now there's a project I can get behind. Never seen one in person but I'm sure it will be well worth the effort. You're making me feel like a slacker; all I have on my plate right now is a rebuild of a pair of Knight 83-YX-797 integrated amps (pair of 6973s each + 12AX7s, not exactly high end but certainly no slouch) and a transistor replacement on a Marantz 2215B for a friend. I already did a full recap on it but one channel is squealing like there's no tomorrow so I'm pretty sure it's a transistor issue.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 11, 2021 18:32
|
|
|
BigFactory posted:My B&W DM-2s have the woofer on top and the mid and tweeter low and they sound great. It might not make as big a deal as you think it would. Those are monitors so they're not meant to be put directly on a floor. I bet they'll sound much better if you can get them up on stands. Heck, if you're going to keep them on the floor it might be worth inverting them and seeing if the sound improves any. Nice speakers though, I'd love to hear a pair.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 11, 2021 18:43
|
|
|
F4rt5 posted:I have a Trio/Kenwood (Kenwood branded) A-7 amp https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/trio_kenwo_stereo_integrated_amplifier_a_7.html that is just (for my ears) excellent. It makes a pair of small pillaged JVC 3" bookshelf (wooden) speakers from some other micro Hi-Fi thing sound golden and boomy as F. But I just noticed that it has a severe lack of treble in the left speaker (took a while since my left ear is hosed as a 42 year old drummer lol but even I notice it now). I guess a capacitor has given up the ghost? I examined the innards, have the repair manuals, but am really suck at electronics. The first step is to be sure that it really is the amp and not the speaker - switch the speakers and see if the problem persists. After that I would clean all the switches and pots with Deoxit. Only at that point would I start thinking about capacitor replacement. quote:I also have a Fisher MT-6225 that is a bit wonky with the speed adjustment knobs, drops speed after 10 seconds just to pick up again, and needs to be dialed in anew sometimes. Guess this is also a capacitor problem, any experience anyone? This definitely sounds like a dirty pot issue. Contact cleaner is your friend.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 11, 2021 21:23
|
|
|
DoesNotCompute posted:Full disclosure, never heard a pair, never owned a pair, was just offered a very good deal for a pair(especially in the current market where they're for some reason pulling insane money). I'm mostly horny for a new project and and am contemplating what I'll do with them, I have had lascalas and currently have a custom two way jubescala build with a lascala clone bottom end and k510 horn/JBL 2445 top so I know I like horns (although they've been sitting in a corner since I got Magnepans this winter). My thinking for this is if I can make them look nice and mod them a little it'll satisfy my need for projects and get a pair of speakers into my girlfriend's place because she likes the look of midcentury modern furniture. Good lord dude, that's a really impressive speaker setup. So what Magnepans did you get that tore you away from Klipsch? I'm in what might be a similar situation, I have a pair of KG4s that I've loved for many years and treated really well - titanium diaphragms and a full re-cap - but I've been increasingly interested in Magnepans and having a pair of planar magnetic headphones that I really like has only increased my desire.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 16, 2021 06:37
|
|
|
DoesNotCompute posted:I found a pair of MG3a's for a song because they were water damaged, ended up making new frames from Baltic birch and replacing the old oak side trim with solid walnut since they had also warped. One thing about them though is that I re-glued some of the bass section wires to the membrane and it missed one tiny spot so I now have to take one of them apart again which is a pain as it is rattling. Any of the older aluminum wire models will eventually need this maintenance so if you're not handy or patient I wouldn't suggest it. It's not difficult work it's just finnicky. I don't know what you're doing on SA. You're clearly a successful professional with an impressive amount of skill at a craft that demands precision and patience. The rest of us are anywhere in between "I found these lovely Panasonic speakers at the thrift store and overpaid for them, did I do a good job?" and "I've had this project half-finished for months and I don't trust myself enough to do it right even though I'm sure it would be fine," not to mention the "I make too much money and am willing to spend it on absolute garbage overpriced headphone DACs" crowd or whatever the fad of the moment is. Hell, I was proud of myself for successfully salvaging a botched soldering job on a pair of old KLH speakers that I was fully willing to throw out a window if I couldn't save them. About the Magnepans, I understand that the high end is the attraction but can you speak to the low end? I wouldn't say that I'm particularly looking for "slam," and that's certainly not an issue for my headphones, but is the bass something that a normal listener would need to supplement with a subwoofer? My concern is that a subwoofer to match that caliber of speaker would cost almost as much as one of the speakers.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 16, 2021 17:15
|
|
|
DoesNotCompute posted:For the magnepans the low end was the surprise for me, with the mg3a's anyway since they have a fairly large panel and I could get them about 4 1/2 feet from the back wall they need zero subwoofer. I've measured them down to =6db at around 35Hz in room, they are a full range speaker that does everything well. I have bottomed them out maybe twice and that was with a Bryston 4B that puts 400W into a 4ohm load playing "hey now" by london grammar which dips in the the 28hz range about a minute in (great test track for stupid bass). Wow. I use Chavez - The Guard Attacks as a test track for sub stuff; it has a sweep at the beginning down to ~31Hz and another one at the end, with a bonus little clip of ~22Hz at the very end. But really, you put 400W into your house/ears at some point? I have an HK 3490 that puts at least 150W into 4 ohms and it's way too loud at -20db. How big is your listening room?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 16, 2021 23:12
|
|
|
Oh boy... saying "recommend me a pair of bookshelf speakers" is essentially a futile exercise unless you provide some specifics. By "bookshelf" do you mean 12" high or less? Are you going to run them on stands or on an actual bookshelf or somewhere else? Are you going to pair them with a sub? What is your budget? (I see you did actually answer this last one). I have a pair of B&W DM302s on an actual bookshelf, paired with a Pioneer Elite sub and I like that combo but I can definitely say that it wouldn't work for everyone. At my last job I had a pair of Polk Monitor 30s sitting on my desk, powered by a 20W class D amp which was obviously plenty for very nearfield listening in an environment where I wasn't ever going to crank the volume. That was fine too, though I'm not sure you can get those speakers new anymore? I honestly wouldn't go more than ~20 years old unless you're looking for something very specific that you're already familiar with the sound of. Like all things, speaker technology progresses over time and there are definite tradeoffs when you're looking at older speakers.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 27, 2021 20:28
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 23, 2024 13:11 |
|
|
Ok Comboomer posted:A decade ago I built a 2.1-channel bedroom system around a $50 pair of white Realistic Minimus 7 I will honestly never understand people who have a soft spot for these speakers. They are boomy as all get out and don't take well to large amounts of power. I have a pair that I relegated to my bathroom for "I just want something to make noise while I am taking a shower" duty and even there I keep thinking about replacing them with something else. They were a reasonable option at the bottom end of the bookshelf speaker market 30 years ago but they've long since been eclipsed by... well, practically anything new at any price point.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 27, 2021 20:35
|
|