Sockington posted:

I finally got my Subaru back together so I could put it up for sale and just focus on the Miata.

TheGoatTrick posted:

They pop out automatically when the car is unlocked. I'm used to closing a door by pushing by the handle- a byproduct of having cars with frameless doors. You can't do that here because of the handle's hinge.

The actual infuriating part of the door handles is how they lock and unlock. The car has auto unlock, which pops the door handles out when you approach the car. Once you step out of range, they lock again. So if you pass by the side of the car on the way to put something in the trunk, they will relock. But then they won't unlock again and you have to push a tiny touch-sensitive square on the handle.

And that is the only situation where the doors will automatically lock. There's no walk away lock like there is on most cars now. That seems really dumb because the logic to do it is already present- it knows to auto lock the car after auto unlocking! To lock the car after you get out of it, you push on the tiny square on the door handle, which is popped out so the square is at an awkward angle.

TheGoatTrick posted:

Coincidentally, I live in Irvine and my wife's commute is 30 miles of 405 stop and go to Long Beach. For the first month or so, I only used the local fast chargers, primarily the 350 kW ones at Irvine Spectrum. That one has been generally reliable, and it's not too crowded if you go before noon or after 8 PM. I usually charge from 20-30% up to 80%, and that takes under 20 minutes. 20-80%, which is a general safe range for everyday use, works out to about 46 kW of battery. That is about 210 miles for my wife (4.6 mi/kWh * 46 kW). We use the car a lot on the weekends too, so I end up charging 3x per week usually.

I did get a home charger, which is the Tesla mobile charger. It gives a lot of flexibility since it can automatically adjust for different amperage depending on what outlet you plug it into. It has tons of outlet adapters available and is UL listed. I had to get a TeslaTap to be able to use it with the Ioniq, but that's a useful thing to have anyway if you travel. TBH, I don't use the home charger that often. It costs me about $16 to do the 20-80% charge at home. Electrify America is free, and my wife's office has 10 cents/kW charging, so that costs $4.60.

The car is an SE RWD. The MSRP is $47,530. The dealer gave me a $2,500 discount (actually $4k, minus the $1480 in add on crap they refused to take off the car). That's the amount I paid tax and license on. But I leased it, so add in $950 in lease acquisition and termination fees. Hyundai then kicks in $7500 for your lease down payment. I bought the lease out as soon as I got the paperwork and still got the $7500 lol. So after all of that, I am at ~$42K. My state rebate of $2k is still pending, so when that goes through, I'll be at $40k OTD.

That flat $5k off is a Hyundai rebate. You have to finance it through them (although you can refinance it at a better rate after). You end up with a bit better discount by using the lease pass through (~$6500 after accounting for the lease start and termination fees). But the real takeaway is that since the $5k finance or $7500 lease cash are manufacturer programs, you can get the dealer to discount on top of that.

TheGoatTrick posted:

For reference, the standard 110 socket charger that comes with the car gets you about 30 miles overnight. If you plugged it in every night, you could save yourself one trip per week to a fast charger. Hyundais come with 2 years of free DC fast charging at Electrify America, though. In theory fast charging is worse for the battery, but all of the real world data I've seen shows the difference is negligible.

To buyout the lease, you first wait for the lease to be funded and for Hyundai Finance to create your account. Then, go online and get a buyout statement which gives you the total buyout amount and an expiration date (usually the date your next payment is due). Take that statement to your bank and get a loan for the exact amount. I have heard that if you do this within a certain amount of time, some banks will treat it as a new car and give you the new car interest rate. Best to ask your specific lender what their policy is. There's a ton more detail on the lease buyout steps here.

And I'm down for lunch.

MetaJew posted:

Has Hyundai fixed the issue where, when single pedal driving, the brake light doesn't come on when you let off the throttle? That seemed bad.

davecrazy posted:

I’ve never had a dealer drill the front bracket in when I’ve asked them not to.

Fifty Three posted:

https://bumperplugs.com/ Might be worth a look? Sorry to hear that.

Ether Frenzy posted:

About 40% of the cars in LA don't have front license plates, because they look dumb on the majority of cars in the $350k and up range, as well as looking bad on a lot of JDM/whatever classics from the 70's and 80's.

chrisgt posted:

Where can parking enforcement give you tickets for equipment violations when you're not driving?? This seems insane

Darchangel posted:

I’m sorry: how did they measure the light transmission of your tint? Did they just “think” it was too dark, or were your windows down enough for them to get the meter on one?

WTFBEES posted:

I did a series of very silly things.

DoesNotCompute posted:

DoesNotCompute posted:

The lady at the dmv didn’t get it, the dean of engineering was hoping it was some sort of math joke. It’s great because it just seems like nonsense to 95% of people, 1% will get it and 4% will google it and be so mad.