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I haven’t done the LCAs on this car yet so I don’t have any great advice to give there, but that sounds like the right approach generally.
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Oct 24, 2019 02:09
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 05:12 |
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The mounts should settle in within a few k miles and be less harsh. Though I’m never quite sure if this is really the case, or that you just get used to the added NVH. Either way, it shouldn’t bother you as much after a while
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Nov 14, 2019 21:47
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It’s not crazy, but definitely the most difficult of the 3 by a good margin. I had to loosen the PMM and RMM so I could move the motor around to get the TMM to line up. The biggest PITA with the Damond mounts is that you have to mount one piece of the TMM to the trans, and then place the other piece on the chassis and line up the big bolt that goes through the bushing and connects the two pieces together. It’s kind of a blind operation. My cheat for this was roughing everything in place loosely, then hand tightening one of the accessible bolts on the lower piece (that mounts to the trans) to hold it in place (guaranteeing alignment later), then taking the top piece and bolt out, and then tightening the other bolts on the lower piece (and torqueing them). Then when I dropped everything back in, that main bolt lined up with no issues. E: Recommend putting blue loctite on all of the trans mount bolts. The PMM and RMM are easy to visually inspect for bolts loosening up, but the TMM is buried. Having a bolt work loose sucks more for the TMM. FWIW, I ended up putting loctite on all of my motor mount bolts, PMM and RMM included, because any bolts connecting to the chassis kept backing out. I torqued them to factory spec, so I’m not sure what the deal was. hattersmad fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Nov 15, 2019 |
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Nov 15, 2019 20:46
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There’s a coolant burping procedure in the service manual. It involves something like revving the engine to 3k RPM for 30 seconds, then idling for 30 seconds, and repeating. First time I went through this process, the engine got up to 230F so I shut it down and tried again once it cooled off and I topped off the coolant. Worked the second time.
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Dec 8, 2019 07:00
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So I replaced my brake pads at 45k mi. I’m at 90k mi now, so I figured I’d check the brake pad wear. The fronts still have some meat on them, but the rear pads are basically gone (at least the outer pads are; haven’t checked the inner pads). Is this typical? When I replaced my pads the first time, the rears had tons of life left, but I just replaced them anyways. Wondering if I hosed something up.
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Feb 23, 2020 23:43
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Regarding my rear brake pad issue, I think the grease I used on the caliper slides last time caused the rubber bushing to swell and prevent the caliper from being able to move. It took all my strength to get the caliper off the slides. So I put in metal slide inserts this time around instead of the rubber ones, and some different grease. Hopefully the rears wear slower this time around.
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Mar 7, 2020 22:40
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Yeah...lesson learned. I didn’t know that 2 years ago when I did the last brake job. I was going to go with metal slide inserts this time around anyways instead of the stock rubber ones for other reasons, but good to know next time I put grease on rubber.
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Mar 28, 2020 04:53
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Also, since I didn’t post pictures here of my finished work, here’s a cross post from the ‘what did you do to your ride’ threadhattersmad posted:Had to do the brakes on the Mazdaspeed3, figured I’d go a little extra this time around.
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Mar 28, 2020 04:57
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 05:12 |
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Yep, those are exactly the ones! And honestly...no, not really. But, I’ve only been DD’ing on them, no track time yet. I was planning on taking the car to the track this year, but my plans have obviously changed 
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Mar 28, 2020 06:54
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