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There's a bunch of MS3 and MS6 owners here and we aren't being chummy enough. I'm sick of all those Legacy GT- and WRX-owning faggots waving their camaraderie in our faces. Everybody start talking about how much you love your DISI MZR here right now, goddammit. I'll start us off: Santa (me) got my MS6 (me) something totally awesome for Christmas. What on Earth could it be?  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. Oh my, this is totally sweet.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.   Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. That's right, motherfuckers. There can be no mistaking the fearsome visage of Our Lord AccessPORT. Currently running "Stage1+SF 93 v101t" from mzdspd.com and while I can't say it feels holyshit faster, it does pull hard all the way to redline now. Allegedly I've dialed in a gain of 60lb/ft which should put peak torque at something like 340, but I don't think I'll believe that until I see a graph sometime later. Next up are the new Denso plugs Cobb recommends and an Saikou Michi catch can, since Internet says I have to. After that, it's tires, and I want to talk about that too: It seems I've chewed through my RE050As in something like 12,000 miles. It's time for new tires and I'm looking for recommendations. Should I stick with the same tires, or are there grippier/quieter/longer-lived/cheaper/whatever tires out there that would work better for me? I'm thinking I want to move to 225/45 from the current 215/45s. Is there a significant benefit to this? I know at least it'll put the speedometer correct. Okay, now everyone else speak.
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Dec 23, 2008 19:48
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I suspected it was an OLED screen because if the weird glittering it does. I haven't done more with it than save my stock map and upload the v101 map so I should be okay for now, but thanks for the heads-up. Is it a Cobb thing to make the OTS maps a lot "smoother" than the stock tunes? I'm noticing that it doesn't seem as gruff, which is making it hard to compare the before and after with an instrument as imprecise as my rear end.
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Dec 23, 2008 20:56
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DreamOn13 posted:It makes shifting feel 100x better, but sucks vibration wise. I bought it because it was supposed to keep the engine/trans more planted but not give off vibes too bad. I always hear MS3 owners talk about the lovely shifting and how engine/transmission mounts help, but is it really that different from the MS6? In my fairly narrow view the MS6 shifts very gracefully. quote:Plans include a Mazdaspeed CAI and probably some other minor mods like tint and such. FlyingPotato posted:How is the Accessport to use? Is it similar to a full blown laptop EMS system, or is it more like an OBD2 scanner that requires you to push the same button 50 times to do anything? Syd posted:RE050As are terrible and as good as/slightly worse than new allseason tires. Going to 225/40 isn't a bad idea but seemingly at the absolute limit of what you can put on a 7" wheel. quote:lighter, better and cheaper tire with similar treadlife (although its not available in 215/45, only 225/40) quote:The engine has pretty severe fuel dilution issues as well but it seems all direct injected engines, especially side injections, suffer from it. Meaning oil has to be changed often, every 3k isn't a bad idea it seems. I've been having huge internet troubles for the last four or five months so I suck at replies.
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Dec 26, 2008 19:09
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Does a DP work well without a tune? I know the MS6 is finnicky. I think Grip Garage is still selling the AP for 590ish until January. That'd be what I'd get first if I knew I was still getting the DP and such later on.
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Dec 27, 2008 02:36
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I really like my Cobb intake. I can't say that I felt any added power with my rear end, but you can just tell you're doing a good thing when you see the diabolical contraption you pull out to make room.trouser chili posted:So is there anything at all I can do to make my Mazda 5 faster? Because you know I have to get the kids to soccer practice faster.
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Dec 30, 2008 16:06
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^^What he said. cp-e has nuked the fuel cut algorithm entirely and Cobb has shoved the triggers way back in their OTS maps.
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Dec 30, 2008 19:24
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GET EM SLUGGER posted:If I shorten the gap on the stock plugs and run the Stage 1 map for a bit, is it going to blow my engine up? I can't get the Densos anywhere locally, and I'd like to try out the AP this week.
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Dec 31, 2008 01:04
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essequamvideri posted:Has no one considered the cp-e StandBack? quote:Its an eternal debate over at various Mazda boards on the web so I am wondering what the general idea is on these forums. quote:(I own a Mazda3)
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Dec 31, 2008 18:30
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The AP says 35mpg at 60 and ~30 at 65-70 but I don't buy it. I haven't gone through a whole tank of normal driving since I uploaded the new map, but stock I struggled to hit 25 freeway.
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Jan 1, 2009 20:47
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Kynetx posted:I'm still using the stock tuning, and I don't think it's enough of a modification to require a custom map, but I wouldn't be surprised if it did benefit from one. quote:I know that Mazda recommends a blend (which is why I went with it) but I haven't read anyone complaining about problems with straight synthetic. Frosty- fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Jan 6, 2009 |
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Jan 6, 2009 05:31
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loving iPhone makes typing posts a game I can't win. But yeah, that's how I understood it. I think along with that they want to change the service interval to 3000. I may have read that wrong or been given false information, but it sounds plausible to me.
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Jan 6, 2009 16:40
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I used the AP to make a lovely datalog because I'm a little curious about some of the things it's been telling me: Click here for the full 812x637 image. Should I really be seeing 19.9PSI? I'm running the Stage 1+SF 93 map which has a peak boost target of 17.5 +/- 1.5, making 19.0 the outside of normal. How much pressure can the car sense before it all starts looking the same? It seems to bounce off 19.9 a lot so it either halts there or the car just doesn't know what the hell is going on past that. The LTFT is a little far from the desired +/- 8 for my taste, too. Should I back up off this map and just drop down to Stage 1 or back to stock for now, or does none of this look too bad? I kind of suck at logging and still trying to get a feel for what's acceptable with this car, so I'm hoping someone else knows more. I've noticed that it still has rather inconsistent power delivery. Sometimes it's right there pulling like a rocket, and others there's nothing going on. It also stutters a little, but I'm hoping the new plugs will fix that. Frosty- fucked around with this message at 00:17 on Jan 8, 2009 |
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Jan 7, 2009 19:49
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I have a couple other logs that are garbage. I was just seeing if it recorded at all when I generated those. I do recall that the boost peaks over 18PSI only occasionally, and also that the KR stays locked at 0 most of the time, so I'm guessing those two go together. I'll make a few more. I'm still getting the hang of producing charts as well. For some reason I think the stock sensor is a wideband. Does that sound right? I feel like I remember it coming up on Cobb's forum or another one.
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Jan 8, 2009 01:51
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My suspicion is that the car is paranoid and pulls timing without knock. It is baseless. My computer died so while it's being repaired I won't be able to do anything with my logs. Hopefully that'll be fixed soon.
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Jan 9, 2009 05:26
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The new Denso plugs made a huge and immediate difference. Everyone should use them, even on completely stock cars. The funky little stutter is gone. Swapping them in was illustrative, too. I very quickly determined exactly what tools I desperately need (work light, oh my god.)
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Jan 11, 2009 21:16
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Yep, and it's great fun, too. Be sure to be careful when you're messing with the intercooler because it is possible to gently caress up. I hosed up twice: -The TMIC is mounted through these three little bushing-like things that normally hold together. One of mine came apart and I lost the inner metal ring, and now I have no clue where it is. -I actually managed to cross-thread and then destroy one of the bolts holding the plastic cover over the IC. My thought process at the time would blow your mind. "Hmmm, this feels like it's hosed up. Maybe if I just turn it some more..." Also, the socket liked the plug a lot more than the extension, so I got to dig that out a couple times. Ultimately, though, the plugs have made an immediately evident improvement in how the car feels.
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Jan 12, 2009 17:16
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Nah, I just yanked the thing out of it's hoses. Pop it back and tighten the clamps and that's that.
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Jan 13, 2009 01:21
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I think they've said everything will be okay even without the bracket, but their lack of movement on this is mind-blowing. Corksport and cp-e have alternatives, though.
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Jan 18, 2009 01:25
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It depends on your car. Supposedly Mazdaspeed6s don't suffer the problem, and I got a really haughty answer when I asked the question at mazda6club, as if only a moron would wonder. As for the Mazdaspeed3 guys, I'd say just ditch the bracket and whine at Cobb about finding a new way to secure it soon. Evidently, the engine moves like 6 inches under hard acceleration and no amount of tape or rubber of anything will keep the bracket from snapping bits off the car.
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Jan 18, 2009 01:53
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Sublime Process posted:And since the bracket has the tendency to break, that's what makes me nervous. One solution would be to release an airbox that fits into the stock location but doesn't constrict the flow. That would also help keep some small amount of grime and poo poo from spraying all over the engine bay, which would make me happy. This should be really easy to do, but neither Cobb nor cp-e has done more than say "Oh yeah, that sounds like a pretty good idea that maybe we'll do someday or not." Unrelated to Cobb's SF Intake snapping poo poo into pieces, but related to our cars: I need to replace one of the bushings that attach the TMIC to the engine. It's the front passenger-side one if anyone cares, but I'm almost certain all three are identical. Like I said earlier, I lost the little metal center bit, and I haven't been able to find it in my garage, so I guess it's gone forever. Where would I buy something like that? Also: the bolt I broke by being a doofus. It's one of the two that hold the plastic cover onto the intercooler. I twisted the head right off, and didn't leave enough to get ahold of with vise grips, so I guess I need to back it out using some kind of drill bit I don't have. Questions: Can I buy an accessory that'll work with my Dremel that'll allow me to do that, or should I go get a real power drill? I'm guessing I'll need to fix the threads that I hosed up, so how am I going to go about that? January funtime: Cobb's silicone turbo inlet pipe is supposed to be available for purchase this month. Personally, I'd rather they release the effing bypass valve already, or the airbox, or a downpipe or shifter or catback for the MS6, but I'll take a blue tube, I guess. They're not stating a price yet, which makes sense, but I'd expect somewhere between 85 and 105 dolla. Apple half-fixed my computer, so now that I have it back I'll post up some logs with more information later.
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Jan 18, 2009 22:34
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Which map were you using, specifically? There are revisions that are supposed to make a big difference. Cobb's inlet pipe is available now. 165, a little more than I expected.
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Jan 26, 2009 04:13
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The only thing I can think to try is to grab the latest version of the appropriate map from http://www.mzdspd.com/ and see if that fixes you up.
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Jan 27, 2009 21:26
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Before you go sell the Nano you could maybe check at Cobb's website and ask on the forums. I think quite a few people have received one-on-one help and even specifically tailored maps when then standard OTS dealies didn't seem to be working for them.
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Jan 27, 2009 23:05
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I know this is horribly lazy of me but I'm going to do it just to keep this from falling completely off the face of the earth: Here are some logs from weeks ago that don't really have all the right information in them, but have a look if you want. I'm not terribly good at graphing them since I don't know how to make things like RPM with values in the thousands line up with things like AFR without making it look like flat zero in comparison. One Two Three Four They're all from first through fourth I think. I'm not actually sure if the gear it's in makes any real difference. I recently learned that most of the guys do it all in third from a roll so I guess maybe tonight I'll hit 95 and go be reckless in short bursts to get some less-lovely logs. I also heard a rumor that there may be an MS6 downpipe about to drop from Cobb, which would be the motherfucking poo poo, so keep an eye out this month if you own a Mazdaspeed6 and want to move to "Stage 2." I don't have my hopes too high but I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
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Feb 2, 2009 20:08
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Not yet, but I believe we were next in line after the GTR and as they've basically halted hard-parts development I have to assume it'll be soon, since it's gotta be their primary focus right now as a company.
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Feb 4, 2009 01:03
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mod sassinator posted:I'm thinking of upgrading my Mazda 3 to a Mazdaspeed6 (bigger back seat, more power, AWD is nice). Any known problems or issues with the 2006 model year? Some 06 cars have had minor issues with the high-pressure fuel pump, VTCS, possibly some other mechanical stuff. Some have a power-loss issue for which there is a reflash that may or may not fix it. Overall, no; the cars are fine. There is very little aftermarket support being that they number something around ten thousand for both years together. cp-e is a pro operation and they have an aggressive stance toward the MS6, and Cobb has provided some items as well. Corksport also offers a lot, and the rest is forgettable. The MS6 is no STI or Evo when it comes to aftermarket. I really like mine a lot, riceboy faggots seem to find the ownership experience more than a little frustrating. So there that is. I recommend it - great car.
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Feb 17, 2009 03:30
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iPhone makes me double-post...GET EM SLUGGER posted:Anyone want to buy a slightly used Accessport for MS6? I'd rather sell it and just buy a downpipe or something. The lack of support for the 6 is bothering me. I guess if I wanted to mod I should have bought an MS3. Bought Cobb's MS3 inlet pipe since it's identical to the inevitable MS6 pipe. I wonder if it'll get stupid-loud now.
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Feb 17, 2009 03:37
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The earliest MS6 APs were just MS3 units guys on Mazda forums bought and reflashed to work on their cars. The AP itself is identical for either car, so either the latest firmware is a for-both dealie, or one should be able to flash it to work on the other car with a fair amount of ease. I think. Definitely try Stage 1+SF 93 v101u, it seems great to me, I know I definitely am hanging on to the AP for when I get a downpipe, though, because with that kind of mod the car really will need at least an OTS tune. Frosty- fucked around with this message at 22:18 on Feb 19, 2009 |
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Feb 17, 2009 17:23
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It should be undetectable. There's no way of tallying the number of reflashes, and I'm under the impression that the stock map copied when you marry the AP to the car carries it's original timestamp, so it should appear like nothing was ever altered, and I'm not even sure a dealership has the wherewithal to examine the code on the ECU anway, and an accurate timestamp isn't really an indicator of anything at any rate, so... we should be A-OK. Paging essequamvideri: How come cp-e's MS6 downpipe lacks the cast bellmouth of the MS3 part? I figured you might know or be able to find out.
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Feb 19, 2009 03:42
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Captain Cannabis posted:Its done this 3 times so far, and each time the light turns off after 50 miles of driving like Mazda said. Anyone heard of this problem? I know cars will throw CELs based on gas caps not being secured or whatever, so I assume it can just as easily get the wrong idea and pop a light on your dash for no reason. In such cases I assume the solution is to either ignore the light or replace whatever gizmo is causing the false alarm. My Cobb inlet pipe arrived the other day. Apparently, FedEx had tried to deliver it a couple times before and someone had just gone and taken the sticker off the door, instead of signing it or telling me about it. It's still much sooner than I expected, since Grip Garage told me it'd be into March. Why, hello there   Click here for the full 600x800 image. The install would have been simple and gone smoothly except for a couple of small details. First of all, the stock plastic part is attached to some cables via a plastic clip that is exceedingly easy to remove, except nobody explains how. My solution was to become increasingly angry until I simply broke the thing. Now I know how it works, anyway. (It's a squeezy plastic thing you simply have to compress in the correct direction and it slides right out.) There is also some kind of metal bracket that appears to serve no real purpose except to get in the way. I was unable to determine how to unfasten it from the same cables because the mechanism for attachment was different from the first, so I just left it alone. Eventually, through some shoving and twisting the blue thing was made to attach to the spinny thing and I put everything back together. The bypass valve has been quieted a lot by the new inlet, which I guess others have observed. Some folks have claimed that their long-term fuel trims got weirded up by the pipe, but I really doubt that, and I'm sure when I finally bother to check with my AP everything will be the same as always. I didn't bother to take a picture of the finished installation because it was darkish and the phone wouldn't have worked well, and also you can't really see it anyway.
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Feb 22, 2009 21:29
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warwick5s posted:Cobb inlet trip report of dubious quality: I don't have any datalogs for this or, rather, I have no way of extracting them because Windows and VMWare Fusion registration woes combined with internet access troubles that make it impossible for me to use the Windows version of AP Manager (and the Mac version doesn't seem to be able to pull CSVs from the AP.) However; I have noticed that the car is more responsive, the revs climb faster, and boost comes on earlier, but all very slightly. The AP now shows peak boost at somewhere close to 21psi, over just under 20 before the inlet. 20.7psi is a little worrisome and I might switch to a 91 octane map to get some small margin against knock, but the car pulls extremely hard and smoothly now, all the way to redline without any stutter, and completely consistent time and again, which is a massive improvement over stock. Before the mods, torque was unimpressive until around 3000rpm at which point it ramped up to holyfuck for a brief moment and then dropped off and became wheezy past 5500. Sometimes the car wouldn't deliver even that kind of response, and seemed almost to be in a limp mode which could be made to go away by turning it off and starting it back up. I felt silly rebooting my car. With the SF intake and inlet pipe, colder Denso plugs, and AP Stage 1+SF tune, it's like a whole other animal. So, does the inlet represent an improvement that is noticeable and would certainly be measurable if I was capable of doing so? Yes. Is it worth 165 bucks? That really depends. I haven't heard anybody say they're dissatisfied, and I'm not, but with things like the AP or the intake you can really point to definite seat-of-the-pants gains, where the inlet is more intangible. Sure, there's probably a couple extra hp in there, but it's mostly about throttle response and smoothness and things like that. I'd say if you're looking to go crazy and replace all the intake before the turbo and all the exhaust after the turbo it's definitely worth it since you're going to get around to it at some point anyway. If you're happy with Stage 1 or Stage 1+SF already and don't have any other plans, it might not be the most awesome bargain. At this point, I'm saving up for turbo-back exhaust. I'm not sure if I prefer Corksport's or cp-e's downpipe, nor do I know which catback I like. GHL and cp-e are kind of expensive, Remus is also expensive and a completely unknown quanitity since I know of no one who has one, Corksport's sounds awesome in their clips and supposedly flows the best, but I've heard it drones pretty badly. Anyone got any thoughts?
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Mar 4, 2009 23:42
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The Impreza looked like the 3 before the 3's redesign  meatpimp posted:On the MZR front -- if I'm looking at a CX-7, how many of the MS3 mods will apply?
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Mar 6, 2009 05:12
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MonDubious posted:Has anyone had problems with CAIs from other manufacturers? Is it recommended to get a reflash after that sort of upgrade? The F5 Fujita intake is garbage, as far as I can tell. HKS, AutoEXE (expensive as gently caress JDM nonsense), cp-e, Corksport, and Cobb all have short intakes. Cobb's is rough on MS3s but the rest should play nice. A bunch of lovely ricer crap exists as well like the AEM and Injen parts. Cobb, cp-e, or Corksport and you can't go wrong (except for Cobb parts snapping MS3 brackets.) If you go with a reputable company you won't need a special tune just for the intake. Something like the Fujita probably would.
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Mar 6, 2009 20:03
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trouser chili, I think you know what you must do: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pSE4dtMFx7I
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Mar 7, 2009 22:10
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trouser chili posted:I wonder if they're seeing any performance increases. I came across a fantastic thread at mazda6club today and I really can't restrain myself from sharing the OP... some stupid jerk posted:i think my rod is bended ,but the engine still running .. sorry i don't have video camcorder to record the sound, but my engine is making the same ticking noise that someone posted the video awhile back..Cant remember who... also my clutch pedal shaking real bad when i'm idling.. The Mazdaspeed community out there beyond the fortress walls of AI sucks fat balls.
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Mar 14, 2009 01:13
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IOwnCalculus posted:How are the aftermarket intakes that are available? I'm looking at a MS3 locally that already has a CPE cold air intake on it - if I go for the car should I leave it or find stock parts? On the topic of aftermarket bits: It looks like Cobb is bailing out on us because we're all jerks. Anyone who knows what the community at large is like knows they're right. I think this makes cp-e the only real game in town, so that really narrows everything down. I'm definitely going with them for my exhaust whenever I do that, and probably a FMIC at some point too. gently caress, I might even get the Xcel CAI just so it matches underhood. Frosty- fucked around with this message at 05:23 on Apr 9, 2009 |
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Apr 9, 2009 00:26
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As far as I understand it there will be no further development for the MS3 or MS6. Warranties and stuff will be honored, of course, but no new parts will be developed and I believe software development has been halted as well. As for Corksport, I don't know. I'm kind of freaked out by their crazy FMIC and tales of leaky exhaust or downpipes that block wastegates and cause boost creep.
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Apr 9, 2009 04:21
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Anyone who thinks a turbo timer is a good investment for their MS3 is a raging retard and their car should be avoided by prospective customers for eternity. Were those gauges in that lovely-rear end Lotek center pod, by chance? What a horrible piece of crap that thing is.
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Apr 9, 2009 05:28
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If you can wade through this garbage long enough you'll find the links and quotes that explain the story. As an MS6 owner I didn't really expect anything more from Cobb anyway, but it still came as kind of a surprise. Edit: It looks like this is really no big deal. Frosty- fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Apr 9, 2009 |
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Apr 9, 2009 16:46
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Sublime Process posted:So let me get this straight - Gary at Cobb pulled the plug on the MS3, pissed the community off and then decided to take it back and release no lift shifting and something else for the AP? quote:Do you know if they pulled all further development of aftermarket for the car? IOwnCalculus posted:Well, I'm now invoking the wrath of the Mazda curse gods - picked up an '07 MS3 with 24k on the clock tonight, in red. God this thing is a riot And no drywall screws in sight, I presume.
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Apr 12, 2009 14:28
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