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brad industry posted:I can't see the second one but uh, good light and bad retouching. They comped in some clouds and desaturated things a little bit too. The second one looks like a CG render of a post-apocalyptic London. In either case, they both use a somewhat heavy vignette and a monotone-ish color palette. The second one, if it were to be a photo, also appears very slightly underexposed and highly contrasted, like HDR.
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Feb 26, 2009 23:09
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vs Dinosaurs posted:Is there a way that I can make the pentool icon change/smaller when using photoshop? It is so huge, and distracting/a nuisance. If you set your keyboard to capslock, it changes the cursor to a crosshair. Is that what you mean?
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Mar 22, 2009 23:54
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Elijya posted:I don't really know the names of different art styles, but my next assignment is called something like formal expressionism, or abstract formalism, something like that. The examples the teacher showed me were mainly shapes and colors, but not crazy random patterns like a Jackson Pollack, you're supposed to plan it out before hand., and they looked to have more of a geometric structure to them. Does anyone know what I'm talking about? I wanted to find more examples of it. Things like Rothko?
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Apr 10, 2009 05:38
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I guess I'm not quite sure what you're referring to, unless you mean stuff like Mondrian's work from the 20s and 30s. Do you have a time frame of when this movement was popular? I'm not very familiar with a lot of post-war art movements, so I don't really recognize the name you are giving. Unless you mean "abstract expressionism"? Though that encompasses a lot more than just geometric shapes. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Abstract_Expressionism In any case, Soviet Suprematism is where it's at, and I won't be convinced otherwise. 
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Apr 10, 2009 06:52
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Elijya posted:I whipped up a quickie example in MSPaint, it was more like this Sorry, I'm kind of at a loss. The two names that really pop out for me are Picasso or Miro. You might try browsing through the Artchive and see if any of the names or terms stand out. The Pimpin Panda posted:Hi everybody, I'm working in Dreamweaver designing (essentially) my first site and am attempting to have a image fade in over another image when I roll over it and then fade back out when I mouse out. I tried using the behavior effects to do this but they seem very buggy and almost never work like I want them to. Is there an easier way to do this? Is your javascript disabled in any way? Do you have NoScript installed on Firefox? You could also do an image rollover using CSS, by having your image as a sized link with a background image that hides non-active portions, and then using the a:hover tag to move the image placement to show the mouseover state. Here's a very brief tutorial: http://www.tutorio.com/tutorial/pure-css-image-rollovers/ This was just the first result from googling "image rollover css", but I'm sure there are better tutorials out there.
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Apr 10, 2009 08:46
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ok go etc posted:What do you call two colours art ? I'm thinking of old school computer display aliased black and white, not shades of grey or anything like that. Can anyone point me to a gallery somewhere ? Artists ? Duotone? Are you considering black to be a color as well? If you are looking for purely computer graphics stuff, the term you might be thinking of is "monochrome" (B&W, or green and black)
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Apr 25, 2009 01:38
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Elijya posted:I'm about to put some paint down on an oil painting. The paint's at least a week dry. Do I really need to use the special artist tape, or can I use regular masking tape? Did you paint the original layer? If so, what was your mixture of linseed/thinner? If it was a thin layer, I'd say it would be okay, depending again on how much tape you are using/ how big a space it is. If it's a thick, globby layer, then no. It's really hard to tell unless you describe the situation more.
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May 5, 2009 07:50
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Elijya posted:Sorry. Yes, I painted the original layer. A fair amount of turp went into it, so the paint is not thick at all. Touch it with your finger in an inconspicuous spot. If it's still tacky at all, I'd not put tape on it. If it feels slick/shiny at all, it should be okay. Of course, be careful and don't press the tape down too hard. If it's cheap/non-sticky masking tape, it should be okay, but anything more than that might take the paint up as well. We don't have the painting here in front of us, so it's pretty much up to to your judgement at this point, though.
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May 5, 2009 08:18
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Zombie Kohlhaas posted:I have a question about GIMP, too. A while back, there was a thread somewhere on SA where people were putting their cameras in one place and taking pictures of themselves in different poses. Then, they made a composite of the photos, and it looked like multiple versions of one person were interacting with each other (i.e. one guy was punching a "clone" of himself or something). It was similar to a double exposure effect. I've been trying to do the same thing in GIMP, but I can't seem to figure out how to make the layers play nice with each other. Either I can only see the top layer, or one layer is 50% transparent, etc. Can anyone explain how to do this? What I'm going for is something like this (combining four photos of my cat, with only the cat's position changing), except using layers instead of (my admittedly low-effort) copying and pasting: What you are wanting to do is use masks, not mess with transparency. I don't use GIMP, so I can't say for sure what the method is, but apply a mask to each layer, then blacken the mask in the places where you don't want it to show. Transparency will affect the entire layer, but masks will only hide/show the parts that you want it to.
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May 14, 2009 08:21
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Grimlock Smash! posted:The main reason is that masks are non-destructive, so if you mask something out and then change your mind later, you can just mask it back in. But if you *erase* something and then close the file, whatever you erased is gone forever. I started using masks for everything several years ago, and I'd say that since then it saves me at least 2-3 hours a week that used to be spent redoing fuckups. This is probably the main reason, but you also have to think in terms of the mask, as well. What I mean is, masking and erasing are separate concepts, and masks are much more flexible and can be used for many different things, in addition to a simple erase. For example, say you take a picture of a landscape. It looks fine, except the sky is blown out or otherwise bad. If you make a mask of the sky shape, you can then attach a better picture of a sky to put in there. You can fix the mask to stay in the same position while moving the actual sky around to better suit your composition. If you were to just use the eraser tool, you'd have to recompose and re-draw/re-erase any parts where the sky and foreground overlap. Also, masks can be used to deal with filters. You can mask in a fake bokeh, or gradate the filters, or whatever, while the eraser/selection tool can't handle that kind of thing well.
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May 17, 2009 23:38
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Flashdance posted:I'm desinging a business card at 400 dpi, and I'm having a hell of a time getting the black text (8 point) to not look smudged or as if the color bled due to PS's anti-aliasing when I actually print it out. I just got back from Kinko's with a mock-up printed on card stock in each of smooth/strong/crisp/sharp and they all look terrible in black. Non-anti-aliasing looks even worse, so I'm not sure where to go from here. I have text in dark green and gray as well and that looks fine. Oh, the font is Franklin Gothic Medium Condensed, if that helps. Any suggestions? With text, you really should be using Illustrator or some other vector based program. Photoshop will output a raster image, which might be the cause of the color bleed you are talking about. Also, check what color you are actually using. I don't know what kind of printers Kinkos has, but check with them and see what inks they use. For very small graphics or text, you want it to use only one ink. In process printing (CMYK), most text will use 100% K and no other inks. Except, Photoshop does wierd things with blacks -- often, R0G0B0 is black in Photoshop but ends up as C45M32Y34K100 or some other odd combination of colors.
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Jun 5, 2009 02:29
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Flashdance posted:It's for gotprint.com so I'm actually already working in CMYK. I never really thought about the ink blending like that though - is that really a problem when inks get blended like that, or is it more for RGB->CMYK conversions? Well, conversions are a whole other topic, and they are a huge problem and pain in the rear end. Especially if you have to get true color accuracy, like with clothing photos. But with process printing, traditionally they used 4 different plates that would each print on the single paper. One plate had only cyan, another magenta, another yellow, and the last key (black) ink. These days I think it's all done with kind of "digital plates" rather than actual metal things. But the problem lies in that the plates won't align with pinpoint precision. With photos and such, there is so much going on that it's hard to see when something is off by a small amount. But with small text or graphics, mixing ink colors (thus, using multiple plates) can result in uneven overlapping and thus smudgy or "blurry" text.
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Jun 6, 2009 04:27
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pipes! posted:Does anybody know of any good examples of a vertically-oriented CSS Sprite menu? Like what's discussed here, but rotated 90 degrees. Apparently, I'm an idiot when it comes to coding. Are you thinking of CSS rollovers? If so, here's a decent tutorial about it http://www.elated.com/articles/css-rollover-buttons/ Edit: Actually, I think I know what you are talking about. I'll make a mockup later tonight when I get home from work. Edit2: I tried to make a vertical menu, but for some reason the css hover wasn't activating. Anyways, with the code given in that A List Apart article, I think the following changes would fix it: code:plaguedoctor fucked around with this message at 10:22 on Jun 10, 2009 |
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Jun 9, 2009 20:13
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