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Coax of dubious provenance is 100% not worth loving with for data signals and the garbage tier integrated wifi/modem units cable companies rent out, which you sound like you're using, are almost never worth loving with for wireless. Leave your cable modem where it is, put a good wifi router where you want it, and run cat5 between them.
shame on an IGA fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Jun 21, 2021 |
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Jun 21, 2021 01:38
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shame on an IGA posted:Coax of dubious provenance is 100% not worth loving with for data signals and the garbage tier integrated wifi/modem units cable companies rent out, which you sound like you're using, are almost never worth loving with for wireless. Leave your cable modem where it is, put a good wifi router where you want it, and run cat5 between them. I have my own modem and router. I don't want a bunch of blinking electronics (including just the modem) in my living room, nor do I have a convenient way to run cat5 through the walls since, as stated, I have no idea what is going on behind the walls, so I don't really have confidence there's a clear shot from start to end. If there's a good way to determine this, I'm all ears.
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Jun 21, 2021 01:49
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shame on an IGA posted:Coax of dubious provenance is 100% not worth loving with for data signals and the garbage tier integrated wifi/modem units cable companies rent out, which you sound like you're using, are almost never worth loving with for wireless. Leave your cable modem where it is, put a good wifi router where you want it, and run cat5 between them.  but more nerd ragey and definitely more fucks thrown in. There is a networking thread in sh/SC (I think) that has the answer here. Either way, run a coax extension cord or a ethernet cord to where you want it.
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Jun 21, 2021 01:50
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KnifeWrench posted:I have my own modem and router. I don't want a bunch of blinking electronics (including just the modem) in my living room, nor do I have a convenient way to run cat5 through the walls since, as stated, I have no idea what is going on behind the walls, so I don't really have confidence there's a clear shot from start to end. If there's a good way to determine this, I'm all ears. do you have a basement? I have a shitload of cutoffs in my basement.
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Jun 21, 2021 03:08
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Could be a lot of things. Could be splitters and every coax outlet is ultimately connected. My house is split where some of the coax is all tied to the incoming internet which splits, while other jacks are for separate television/dish satellite only coming from the roof. I'd also ask the Home Networking megathread as well.
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Jun 21, 2021 03:50
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Danhenge posted:do you have a basement? I have a shitload of cutoffs in my basement. I found it! It wasn't in the basement, but they had nailed a board over the distribution box to, I don't know, make it look nicer? Sorry for the off topic, and thanks for the advice.
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Jun 21, 2021 03:56
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I have a couch that has a hollow underneath with a simple flat panel between the legs at the front. I would like to have some power and USB outlets on the front of it to make it easier to plug in electronics. Is something like this the way to do it https://www.amazon.com/Desktop-Furniture-Recessed-Grommet-Outlets/dp/B07G5HTRGG or is there a better way?
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Jun 21, 2021 15:05
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KnifeWrench posted:I found it! It wasn't in the basement, but they had nailed a board over the distribution box to, I don't know, make it look nicer? LOL I'm new to this thread but I hope folks don't mind if I request a photo.
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Jun 21, 2021 15:25
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wolrah posted:I have a couch that has a hollow underneath with a simple flat panel between the legs at the front. Certainly seems like easy mode to me, if you wanted a _specific_ usb charger you could get panel mount USB ports and run your own extenders with the power supply tucked under the couch, but that's probably not worth the effort.
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Jun 21, 2021 15:57
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cruft posted:LOL You would be remiss not to.  your horror shows.
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Jun 21, 2021 16:22
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wolrah posted:I have a couch that has a hollow underneath with a simple flat panel between the legs at the front. You want to essentially be able to plug things into the couch? If so, don't. There's a reason you don't see UL listed fixtures for furniture for sale. E: especially don't buy things like that from Amazon. Look up knockoff apple chargers if you want to see what happens when things are plugged into mains electricity that shouldn't be. BonerGhost fucked around with this message at 16:44 on Jun 21, 2021 |
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Jun 21, 2021 16:41
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BonerGhost posted:You want to essentially be able to plug things into the couch? If so, don't. There's a reason you don't see UL listed fixtures for furniture for sale. This is probably the right answer, but I'm going to tell you you can do it anyway, as long as you're aware of the risks. Ensure you get a complete unit that has the plug already installed so you're not doing any wiring of any kind yourself. Make sure the unit is UL or ETL listed and comes from a reputable manufacturer. Make sure you don't mount it so the plugs are face-up. Make sure you don't use an extension cord to plug it in. These things mitigate the risks as much as possible, but the risk still exists that you get a unit that's not actually compliant and just some knockoff with counterfeit stickers attached. If you get a fake unit, then the risk exists that you set your couch on fire: be very careful. edit: reputable brands are things like Anker, Belkin, GE, Leviton, Hubbel, Pass and Legrand, etc. I'm not entirely sure I trust AmazonBasics yet;. babyeatingpsychopath fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Jun 21, 2021 |
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Jun 21, 2021 17:24
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BonerGhost posted:You want to essentially be able to plug things into the couch? The device OP linked is ETL listed according to the amazon page  IMO this is no different from a power strip, which is probably what it's listed under. I don't see any issues with it as long as it's not a counterfeit sticker.
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Jun 21, 2021 17:48
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DaveSauce posted:The device OP linked is ETL listed according to the amazon page The no name charger inside is probably super garbage.
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Jun 21, 2021 18:36
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DaveSauce posted:IMO this is no different from a power strip, which is probably what it's listed under. I don't see any issues with it as long as it's not a counterfeit sticker. This was more or less my thinking, if this couch was a different style where the legs were visible I'd just have a power strip sitting underneath it. It seems like there should be some reasonable way to make it accessible in this situation. I'm not attached to the product I linked, I just found it in a few seconds while looking to see if such things existed. My initial thought before finding that involved using one of those passthrough outlet setups designed for wall mounting TVs, so there would be an inlet on the back and the outlet on the front. This one seemed like a better choice, being entirely self contained with no actual wiring involved. One way or another I'm asking here because I'd rather not have unintentional heated seats. Point taken about the no name chargers, that's not really the important part here, obviously if I can get some normal power outlets to the front of the couch safely plugging in a phone charger from there is easy.
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Jun 21, 2021 18:40
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[quote="DaveSauce" post="515656939"] IMO this is no different from a power strip... It's different from a power strip in that it's about to be "permanently affixed" to a "flammable article" as per the NEC. There's a different listing. If you get a name-brand strip, it'll list the qualification articles it's listed under. It will also have specific installation instructions with clearances and stuff. This may cost you upwards of $50, where a no-name charger is probably like the $30 one you linked.
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Jun 21, 2021 18:46
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:I'm not entirely sure I trust AmazonBasics yet;. Neither is the CPSC. https://www.cnn.com/2021/06/14/business/amazonbasics-cpsc-investigation-invs/index.html
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Jun 21, 2021 19:17
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H110Hawk posted:The no name charger inside is probably super garbage. Oh, no doubt. But safe is not the same as functional. babyeatingpsychopath posted:It's different from a power strip in that it's about to be "permanently affixed" to a "flammable article" as per the NEC. There's a different listing. I suppose, I don't know the details on this sort of product, but bottom line is ETL isn't going to put their mark on something that isn't fit for the advertised purpose. You can sometimes slip minor technicalities past NRTLs, but something major like "this is intended to be installed on furniture" would be a non-starter. I mean, assuming it's a valid mark. But ETL has this company listed in their directory for the standards in the Amazon listing, so it's probably not counterfeit. Only thing I can't confirm is if this is one of the model numbers ETL has records for... I didn't see the exact model number on Amazon's page. But that said, ETL is also saying the same models comply with UL-1363.
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Jun 21, 2021 22:00
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:I'm not entirely sure I trust AmazonBasics yet;. from what I've seen I wouldn't trust AmazonBasics before the heat death of the universe
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Jun 22, 2021 03:54
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Mimesweeper posted:from what I've seen I wouldn't trust AmazonBasics before the heat death of the universe They make fine low voltage cables. Not great, but fine.
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Jun 22, 2021 04:02
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How destructive is running new dedicated circuits? Our kitchen is a mish-mash of different circuits where we trip random breakers by plugging in a toaster oven in different outlets, also shutting off random appliances (I think most everything is on the two 20A appliance circuits, though some are also tied to lights maybe?) I'd ultimately like to rewire everything, but in the immediate future I'm looking to at least add a couple more 15/20A breakers and run dedicated circuits for things like the fridge, microwave, gas range and hood, and dishwasher/garbage disposal instead of them sharing different circuits with different things. Is this going to end up tearing out all my cabinets and ripping walls open? I'm hoping they can do most through the attic which I think is where it is now with minimal small holes...
PageMaster fucked around with this message at 07:19 on Jun 26, 2021 |
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Jun 26, 2021 06:48
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It kinda depends on your wall access and how your house was built. For generic American Housing from the 90s to 2010s, then you can drill a hole in the top plate from the attic and fish a wire down a wall pretty easily. Some places further north and other jurisdictions required fireblocking in some walls, so you can only get halfway down a wall with a fish tape. Of course, there are long drill bits to solve this problem, but they don't work on exterior walls because of access angles and stuff. If you're not doing any of this yourself, then it's going to take the contractor doing an actual in-home detailed job estimate. Make sure that whatever contract you sign before the work is started states what your maximum allowed disruption is, and what the contractor's expected disruption is. Don't pay the final payout until you're happy with the work, including cleanup and patching.
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Jun 26, 2021 08:17
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I full on smashed my index finger putting in a wiring staple. Pro tip: DON'T DO THAT At least it wasn't with the biggest hammer
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Jun 26, 2021 09:09
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PageMaster posted:How destructive is running new dedicated circuits? I assume you don't have a basement/crawl? Kitchen rewiring actually tends to be a bit easier than other rooms, because you can hide drywall patches behind appliances or cabinets, which can often save the pain of repainting/hide mediocre drywall skills. Like the fridge circuit: just patch the wall behind the fridge, where nobody will see it, and paint it next time you repaint the kitchen (i.e. never.) Cabinets usually come off the wall with a few screws, and again, just do a ghetto drywall patch and cover it by replacing the cabinet.
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Jun 26, 2021 13:17
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No basement or crawl space, two story 1990 house with attic.
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Jun 26, 2021 15:39
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PageMaster posted:No basement or crawl space, two story 1990 house with attic. If you don't have clear access be prepared to do a lot of patching. As others said, hidden patching is the name of the game. We had to paint so much stuff when we rearranged the kitchen. At least have the decency to prime it. It's not like it has to be pretty.
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Jun 26, 2021 16:57
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What should I expect from an electrician when they're doing work that requires permits? I'm having someone come on Wednesday to look for Knob & Tube and I mentioned I also wanted to get some estimates on some other work and the person on the phone said they carry everything on the truck so they can do it right there. But most of it would be work that requires permits so it can't just happen right away that day, can it? If I did things myself I'd need to submit a plan, get it inspected at rough-in, and then get another inspection when I'm al done. Are licensed electricians able to bypass some of those steps?
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Jun 28, 2021 21:33
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FISHMANPET posted:What should I expect from an electrician when they're doing work that requires permits? I'm having someone come on Wednesday to look for Knob & Tube and I mentioned I also wanted to get some estimates on some other work and the person on the phone said they carry everything on the truck so they can do it right there. But most of it would be work that requires permits so it can't just happen right away that day, can it? If I did things myself I'd need to submit a plan, get it inspected at rough-in, and then get another inspection when I'm al done. Are licensed electricians able to bypass some of those steps? That probably means they don't want to get a permit, even if they are legally required to get a permit.
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Jun 28, 2021 23:47
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Licensed electricians won't have any shortcuts to bypass steps in the permit process. They will have all the knowledge on what needs to be submitted as far as technical info and drawings, which is still nice. Edit: didn't read the whole post about them wanting to start work; above poster is probably right. Hypothetically the work in question may not require a permit but you'd have to do some (ideally anonymous) digging to find out for sure. Almost every contractor this year who's told me they'll take care to permit anything that needs it was just planning on but doing it, with one quitting when I told them I called the city to ask about it. PageMaster fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Jun 29, 2021 |
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Jun 29, 2021 02:59
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yeah they don't want to deal with a permit. residential is already a pain, knob & tube is a pain, permits are a pain. sounds like they don't want the bother. you're going to need to do a lot of shopping around to find someone who actually cares as much as you do
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Jun 29, 2021 03:22
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To be clear, they haven't come yet. I'm having them check for knob & tube before I get wall insulation installed. They come recommend by an org that does energy audits, so I'll start off assuming good intentions. Though if they want to pull new circuits and install some new GFCI outlets right on the spot I'll know they're full of crap. Maybe they just have a ton of calls for doing like for like replacements or other things that don't need permits that it makes sense to be ready to do the work on the spot. We'll see. I've got a good amount of work that will hopefully make it worth their time to want to do it properly.
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Jun 29, 2021 04:57
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What do you expect to get out of pulling a permit aside from a lighter wallet?
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Jun 29, 2021 23:58
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Generally, the permit process is there to help safeguard against idiots doing things that cause your house to burn down.
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Jun 30, 2021 00:02
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That's why you hire a licensed and insured professional. A permit in many cases where they are called for is just going to be a waste of time for everybody involved and a waste of money for the homeowner because they will end up paying more for the job from the electrician and also the tax from the city. You are supposed to pull a permit for lighting change or adding a receptacle. What do you think the inspector is gonna do? Test that it works and call it a day.
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Jun 30, 2021 00:19
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Rufio posted:That's why you hire a licensed and insured professional. A permit in many cases where they are called for is just going to be a waste of time for everybody involved and a waste of money for the homeowner because they will end up paying more for the job from the electrician and also the tax from the city. n0tqu1tesane posted:A "licensed and bonded" electrician supposedly replaced this outlet within the last week. n0tqu1tesane posted:Yeah, some backstory on that outlet. We were under contract to buy that house. Our inspector noted the fact that most of the outlets and switches in that house were not rated for aluminum wiring. We did an addendum to the contract stating that the seller will replace the affected outlets and switches with ones rated for aluminum wiring. We did a walkthrough before our original closing date to find that none of that work had been done. They might have replaced the outlets and switches with new ones, but they were not aluminum rated. Closing date was pushed in order to get the work properly done. The seller stated that the work was done by a licensed and bonded electrician, but they didn't pull permits to complete the work, which are required in our jurisdiction. They also have refused to provide the license number for the electrician they used, which leads me to believe that they're not licensed and bonded.
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Jun 30, 2021 04:27
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Our permit inspectors have been hit or miss; they caught some things we missed, but missed some things we caught. Someone recommended in another thread to walk them through a punch list of questions which I liked. They are not going to guarantee perfect work, but I've found the contractors that were fine with me pulling a permit and dealing with the inspection to be a lot more pleasant and comfortable to work with than the ones who would not work for me if I did (just from the brief interactions with site visits for quotes and interviews). I use it partly to protect myself and house (especially for future sale) but mostly as a way to filter out contractors of they're not willing to even be inspected.
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Jun 30, 2021 05:15
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PageMaster posted:I use it partly to protect myself and house (especially for future sale) but mostly as a way to filter out contractors of they're not willing to even be inspected. This is exactly what permits are good for. The odds of corners being cut goes up exponentially if someone flat out refuses to do work with a permit.
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Jun 30, 2021 05:30
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I/my customers have never asked for an inspection on something like replacing a couple circuits, but my lone inspector is responsible for like 3000 square miles so my experience is not usual. I'd never refuse a customer request for inspection; I'd just charge them for my time rounded up to the next hour. edit: and most inspectors aren't going to take an outlet cover off, much less go in a crawlspace. More than half will just plug in an outlet tester in a final inspection. Blackbeer fucked around with this message at 02:08 on Jul 1, 2021 |
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Jul 1, 2021 01:44
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Blackbeer posted:I/my customers have never asked for an inspection on something like replacing a couple circuits, but my lone inspector is responsible for like 3000 square miles so my experience is not usual. I'd never refuse a customer request for inspection, I'd just charge them for my time rounded up to the next hour. If you're lucky.
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Jul 1, 2021 01:52
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Blackbeer posted:I/my customers have never asked for an inspection on something like replacing a couple circuits, but my lone inspector is responsible for like 3000 square miles so my experience is not usual. I'd never refuse a customer request for inspection; I'd just charge them for my time rounded up to the next hour. And when you're a known quantity that does good work some "signoffs" on minor work like this or even more extensive can be pictures/texts. It's all very regional.
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Jul 1, 2021 03:46
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