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I want to add a few outlets in my garage. I'm going to use handy boxes and conduit. I know the typical advice is to use THHN for ease of pulling, but I have a bunch of NM leftover from another project. If I'm only pulling one run through the conduit, and only making a single 90 degree bend, will I hate myself if I try to use it? This is the wire I have: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Romex-100-ft-14-2-White-Solid-SIMpull-NM-B-Wire-28827428/202316379 Also taking advice for what kind of conduit to go with. Don't really care how it looks. Would like to avoid glueing PVC together if possible. Thanks all.
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Jul 15, 2016 20:06
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 12:39 |
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Adding onto an existing circuit. And yup, was gonna get GFCI outlets. The existing outlet is mounted to the rafters for the garage door opener. Was gonna extend off that in either direction and put one on the two opposite walls. I see a few different sizes of EMT. Do you think 1/2" would be big enough?
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Jul 15, 2016 21:38
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Is there anything wrong with what I did here, or is there a better way to accomplish it? On the back wall in my garage is a single outlet. Its super old and crusty so I wanted to replace it with a GFCI. Here's what it looked like before (sorry already removed from the wall at this point)  The outlet was screwed to the round cover plate, which when removed revealed this:  Also discovered at this point that hot and neutral were reversed, good stuff. No ground also, naturally. Octagonal metal box embedded in the wall. Could only find replacement covers for normal outlets, so I decided to stick a new square box on top of it. Popped out one of the knockouts in the rear of the new box, passed the wires though, and used really long screws to hold the new box to the matching holes (the smaller ones) in the back of the old one, using plastic anchors. Seems kinda hacky to me, but I couldn't come up with a better way to mount the new box to the old other than maybe stuffing some wood in there to mount it to. It's really solid and not going anywhere. Here's the finished product.  OK/bad/awful idea? opengl fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Jul 30, 2016 |
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Jul 30, 2016 23:14
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I would totally have just replaced the box if it weren't embedded in a cinder block wall.Alpine Mustache posted:The box was probably grounded through the flexible conduit coming through the back. Old box wasn't grounded, the cable running to it is cloth covered NM (50's construction). I did test the outlet beforehand and confirmed no ground. My original idea was what you suggested, drilling holes in the back of the new box to screw onto the cover plate holes in the old box, but I lined it up and they were perfectly positioned on the edges of the knockouts on the back of the new box, so that wouldn't end up holding at all. In my second photo, the four smaller holes around the center knockout of the old box, two of those are where I pressed plastic anchors into. I then used those same small holes on the new box, and 2 long screws to screw into the anchors.
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Jul 31, 2016 04:50
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Is there a preferred/code legal way to splice an underground run? We were digging up some shrubs out front and cut the line running to our lamp post. It's two separate conductors, directly buried. They're pretty beefy, maybe 12ga.
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Apr 28, 2017 15:51
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That reminds me of something I've always wondered about dimmers. How does the little LED on them work? They only get a traveler leg, so not a complete circuit, right?
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Jun 3, 2017 04:33
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TacoHavoc posted:Not in a two wire dimmer (Lutron Maestros, for example). The LED and processor circuitry is powered by drawing a very small amount of current every line cycle through the load using only the hot wire. Yeah should have specified a standard two wire dimmer, no neutral present. Just the hot being switched. I still can't say I get it, I'll chalk it up to pixies present on the hot.
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Jun 4, 2017 23:41
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Wanted to add an outlet to the garage. Previously just had the one in the back. Holy cow pulling THHN through EMT sucks. I thought it wouldn't be too bad since it's only a couple bends, but I was barely able to get it done without kinking the wires big time, and that's also with the covers popped off two of the 90 degree fittings I used. Definitely going to get fish tape for next time. But now I can keep the bike on a tender without running extension cords, so yay I guess.  
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Aug 20, 2017 05:33
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Can anyone tell if this box can support a ceiling fan? Its hard to make out, but there's a large threaded rod at the back of it.
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Nov 8, 2017 17:30
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In my garage, the opener has a single screw in bulb that lights up when the door is opened. This does almost nothing to light up the garage. I also have three LED overhead fixtures installed, which do a wonderful job of lighting up the garage. Is there a code legal way to have the opener also activate my existing overhead lights? They're currently on a normal light switch. The junction box where they all get their power is literally a foot from the opener.
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Jan 24, 2018 16:09
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Bad Munki posted:Put the overhead fixtures on a motion sensor switch. It's a drop in replacement for the existing switch, will take five minutes to install, and the garage door opening (or anyone moving around out there) will trigger it. I literally thought of this as soon as I posted, haha. Much simpler.
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Jan 24, 2018 16:33
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Bad Munki posted:Well for the both of you, then, I recommend this one, I've used it in a couple places now: Follow up question. Looks like most of the Lutron occupancy sensor switches are marketed as no neutral required, but ground IS required. They seem to use the ground to complete the circuit. I opened up the wall plate where I want to install one, and it's not grounded (50's house/garage). However, there is a neutral in that box. Can I use that instead to power the switch? The switch has 2 blacks/hots for the light, a bare wire, and a green wire. Some Amazon reviewers said in this situation you ignore the bare wire and connect the green wire to your neutrals. Thoughts?
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Jan 25, 2018 02:03
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At least they used a cable clamp, lol
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Jul 15, 2018 16:18
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mynnna posted:Some switches/outlets/etc will have holes in the back that you slide the stripped wire into and then tighten up the screws on the sides, as opposed to screws that you're meant to curl the wire around externally. The former are backstabbed. Your switches are weird and alien looking to my American eyes, but yeah, they're backstabbed. I always thought the backstabs people got all  about are the spring loaded ones, while the kind you tighten a screw down for aren't as bad.
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Aug 20, 2018 18:15
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mynnna posted:The jagged metal is no bueno, yeah. Doesn't sound any worse than the blue plastic boxes everyone uses now where you just shove romex through a tab and it sort of holds it in place.
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Sep 15, 2018 03:47
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Just replace the fixture. It's like a 5 minute job and will not require attic access unless there's something truly bizarre going on. Standard cheap replacement should be like $15 at home depot.
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Sep 30, 2018 22:38
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B-Nasty posted:X10 was simultaneously ahead of its time and total garbage. My favorite part was that the signals could only traverse one leg of the customary US 2-leg home power setup. I had a device that used a dryer outlet (230v, both legs) to bridge the signal. Somehow, this device needed to be the size of a small pineapple to accomplish this feat: https://www.smarthome-products.com/p-1698-signalinc-4816b2-plug-in-phase-coupler-for-3-wire-220v-dryers.aspx https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wF8NK6eruUs
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Dec 9, 2018 20:13
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BIGFOOT EROTICA posted:Judging by the age of the wiring the house is probably plaster and I don’t think anyone makes plastic boxes with plaster ears. So they replaced the box at some point with an off the shelf plaster box That's what all my original boxes look like in my 1953 house with plasterboard. Same cloth covered wiring too. Though I don't think they have the ground screw so maybe that one is a little newer.
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Jun 6, 2019 00:30
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SpartanIvy posted:The real question is ground on top or bottom Bottom or guillotine.
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Aug 14, 2019 20:40
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That just looks like internal wiring to me, you may still have a normal box behind the vanity.
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Oct 4, 2019 15:14
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Dumb Lowtax posted:Noob question, is there a free way for me to find out if the new outlet my contractor installed is grounded? I don't have a circuit tester, but how do those work when they test for ground? Could I replicate whatever it's doing internally with my multimeter instead? You can check for continuity between neutral and ground. But if your contractor was a dick they could have just jumpered it at the outlet to make it appear grounded. You could easily pull the outlet and confirm that though.
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Oct 17, 2019 00:45
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Yeah they’re like a dollar each just replace them. And it’s definitely DIYable.
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Dec 16, 2019 18:38
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IIRC that's also how the little light on dimmer switches works
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Dec 22, 2019 23:40
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B-Nasty posted:Bonus, it solves the ground-up/ground-down debate once and for all. I'm ground orientation fluid. Nice try but there's not even a debate, right angle appliance plugs with the ground on bottom have proved this.
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Jan 21, 2020 21:45
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That thing should be returned as defective. Or if it were me I'd cut it off and replace with the correct style.
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Jan 22, 2020 00:00
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I've heard that hypothetical before and its so absurdly unlikely that I also don't believe it's ever happened. Besides, ground up just looks wrong.
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Jan 22, 2020 15:32
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freezepops posted:I finally figured out the lovely Levaton AFCI/GFCI issue. The AFCI function dislikes my ethernet power line carrier/PC combined load. Separately they are ok, combined they trip the outlet on AFCI. Which is rather annoying as I now get to decide if I try out various manufacturer's AFCI/GFCI outlets and see if someone makes an AFCI with logic that isn't garbage or run some cables through the walls. Ugh. If your house is wired for cable look at MoCA. Tons better than powerline.
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Apr 26, 2020 17:43
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kid sinister posted:You would need to run a short section of 12/3 from that box to a switch above the counter if you wanted to do a switched outlet for a disposal. You'd still feed that box from the panel with 12/2. Alternatively you can use one of those "air switches" https://www.homedepot.com/p/Garbage-Disposal-Air-Switch-in-Brushed-Stainless-I5580-BS/203499159
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May 18, 2020 16:12
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I’ve also found it helps when they’re stubborn to push the wire into the backstab while also pressing the release tab instead of just yanking on it, frees it up better sometimes.
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May 27, 2020 18:28
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Sirotan posted:Crew of two finished my panel replacement and 1 new outlet (plus two replacements) at 8pm last night. Aside from their sloppy rear end work, and everything else mentioned, if this is how they left what you CAN see, I'd be really concerned about what you can't see. The panel could be a horror show, and I'd check to make sure they didn't backstab those outlets.
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Jul 3, 2020 21:42
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Found a few of those in my house too.
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Jul 29, 2020 22:10
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freezepops posted:Has anyone had good luck with a motion detecting light switch? I recently installed a Leviton IPS02 on Sunday and its already failed after switching my 100W incandescent entry light for all of 48 hours. As this is the second Leviton electrical device that has given me issues, I'd prefer to buy a different brand. I've had this one for two years with no issues. Probably gets activated 5-10 times a day. No neutral needed. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005WM3ALC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Sep 30, 2020 15:40
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In my garage I have an outlet that I've replaced with a GFCI. There's no equipment ground, just hot/neutral. Downstream from that I have another outlet connected via the first outlet's load terminals so it is also protected. Since there is no ground at the original outlet, is there any benefit from connecting the two outlets together with a ground conductor? Right now the downstream outlet is also just 2 wire, but it's all exposed so I could easily run a ground between the two if it helps at all.
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Oct 18, 2020 23:07
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Nice work. That screw through the side of the box (along with everything else you've mentioned) is some amateur hour poo poo. I'd put them on blast on google reviews.
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Dec 22, 2020 23:21
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movax posted:I want to replace the light switch in there with a lighted one (plus probably add an emergency light in there) because it's a PITA to find in the dark, but for the outlets, are there any specific types I should look at that are more dust resistant / "industrial" than others? Their junction boxes are already plastic, and I was vaguely considering replacing with metal + going metal faceplates on them, but figured I would ask here. Sorry don't have a pic handy. Do yourself a favor and install a motion activated switch. I put one in the garage and the laundry room in the basement, huge quality of life improvement there.
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Jan 4, 2021 00:01
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KidDynamite posted:I got a $6300 quote to run cat6 through my new(built in 1999) house for 7 drops so I will be probably frequenting this thread because that seems insane to me. Lots of good info to read through. Yeah, that's a "gently caress off" price lol.
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Mar 5, 2021 19:15
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Inner Light posted:e: Is the little black square the screw goes through important? Sometimes those fall off when I'm messing with stuff in boxes and I don't bother putting them back. No, that's just there to keep the screw in place (during shipping etc) until you actually tighten it down.
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Aug 10, 2021 19:24
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Rhyno posted:The house was built in 2000 so I don't have too many worries. Oh sweet summer child.
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Aug 13, 2021 20:50
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This page shows a couple options for center mounting in a 2 gang box, I haven't personally done it though https://www.kyleswitchplates.com/how-to-install-centered-switch-or-outlet-on-2-gang-box/
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Sep 29, 2021 18:20
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 12:39 |
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just another posted:Okiedokie. Am I going to somehow burn my house down if I snip it and push it back into the wall? Snip away
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Nov 8, 2021 18:44
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