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I have a basement I want to finish and the builder left it with steel studs surrounding the foundation walls, insulated and sealed off with vapour barrier. Now I want to run electrical before I put drywall up. It's not a large basement, only 26'x26' square, but I figure I have three options ahead of me, which do you think would be easiest? FYI, I already have about 200' of romex 14/2 wire that I have leftover from finishing the garage. FYI, there's no code here requiring conduit of any fashion inside the home. I can use my existing 14/2 romex and run it through my ceiling and for every recepticle I can run it down the stud and then back up into the ceiling to get to the next recepticle or switch. Are there any code issues with this? I believe this would mean the wire is just floating / falling down the side of the steel stud and getting clamped off at the recepticle box. I wouldn't actually be stapling the wire to the stud in any way since I don't want to rip down the vapour barrier if I go this route. I can buy shielded 14/2 cable and somehow route it horizontally through my steel studs rather than wasting wire by travelling down 7ft and back up again for every run. Though now I would have to buy shielded cable and cut my vapour barrier at various areas to fish it through all my studs. I can rip down the vapour barrier and install guards to prevent any cutting hazard in all the stud holes so that I can use regular romex horizontally run through the studs. But then I would want to try reusing vapour barrier, or would I have to buy new stuff? Or maybe I rip down all the lovely steel studs and reframe with timber and start fresh, reusing my batt insulation? Opinions?
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Mar 6, 2009 18:16
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Any tips or things to look out for on this kitchen pot light to socket change? I have a single pot light wired to a switch that I plan to change into a 2-gang box with 4 outlets in the ceiling. The plugs are for low voltage cabinet lights that will be installed in my new ceiling upper cabinets. Now I intent to cut open the ceiling and take out the fixture and then add in a double gang box for the plugs. I forget which way I should wire up the plugs, are all the neutral wires twisted together in the box and the hot wires daisy chained through each item? I plan to look this up, but any tips would be helpful. How big of a hole should I put in the top cabinet for access to the outlets? Should it be just wide enough for the 4 outlets to be visible or something bigger?
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Jun 25, 2009 21:00
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Cut a 4" square hole in the cabinet top and use a box extension ring to make your devices mount flush with the top of the cabinet, then just use a normal faceplate. Thanks! The box is up, grounded and working! Luckily I was able to junction directly off of the potlight's junction box and not even have to open up my walls except where I cut out the box hole and screwed it to the joist.
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Jun 29, 2009 15:22
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I've been looking online, but can't find an answer. Is there a general code for distance of a power receptacle and a gas line? In this case the gas line is active and inspected OK running to my tankless water system. I need to run a power receptacle for the tankless unit and the best location I can find is about 6" to the right of a vertical gas line. Is this an issue so long as I place a cover plate after installing the receptacle? (standard 15A GFI circuit).
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Jan 16, 2011 06:43
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