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I need to replace some failed florescent ballasts at work. We have T12 lamps everywhere that I would like to stay compatible with if possible. What specs are import when selecting a ballast? I know the power company would like me to have a high power factor, but does ballast factor or power factor matter to me? I've read that T8 lamps are becoming more common than T12. Supposedly better light quality and more efficient. Is that related to the ballast tech, lamp, or both? Is it possible to buy a ballast that supports T8 and T12 and gradually move to T8? (Are the connectors even the same?)
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# ¿ May 20, 2011 22:01 |
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# ¿ Apr 25, 2024 22:51 |
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Nemico posted:T8 and T12 are completely incompatible. The connectors (trade name is a Tombstone) are different, and the ballasts only run one or the other. Thanks. How large are the efficiency differences? Is it really so large that banning T12s is on the table? I might consider just switching to T8 for some of the fixtures if they use 50% as much power per lumen or something like that. The existing ballast is labeled rapid start, 120V, 2 F40T12 lamps. "Advanced Transformer R-2S24-1-TP". How much money is a decent ballast? Is http://www.1000bulbs.com/product/3163/BH-E240RS120MC.html or http://www.1000bulbs.com/product/57919/BA-ICN2S40N35.html a good choice? Or should I expect to pay more than $13 each?
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# ¿ May 20, 2011 22:47 |
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Nemico posted:You want either that Howard brand one you linked, or this Advance one. Is there something wrong with the Advance model I posted? Is ability to operate at 120 or 277V the problem? Start temp? I thought you might know about the efficiency differences since you said you sell them. From what I can tell, T12s are around 55 lumen/W and the T8s are around 95 lumen/W. So not quite 50% but getting close.
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# ¿ May 20, 2011 23:17 |
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Yes, you can do that without hurting the meter. Very little current flows into the voltmeter.
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# ¿ Feb 13, 2012 05:39 |
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What do I need to do/have on the AC side of a permanent in-car inverter system to make it quality and safe? I'd like to have a couple outlets available for passengers and a couple in the cargo area. I think I'd want a fuse on the DC side and breakers on the AC side. What does the AC earth connect to? Do any xFCI devices work? Eventually I'd want to have a way to connect to shore power. Thoughts on doing that by charging the battery vs bypassing the inverter and connecting shore ac to car ac? The former seems a lot simpler if the efficiency and power limits aren't a problem. e: do I need conduit or some kind of enclosure for the AC runs?
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# ¿ May 22, 2020 15:48 |
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I believe inverters for RVs and boats or industrial inverters are available with terminals instead of outlets. I can look into that more today but for now we can assume this won't have an extension cord. e: quick example: taqueso fucked around with this message at 17:28 on May 22, 2020 |
# ¿ May 22, 2020 16:05 |
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You could run a 48VDC bus through your house and avoid some conversion losses but its going to be a lot of effort.
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# ¿ Aug 9, 2021 19:54 |
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# ¿ Apr 25, 2024 22:51 |
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Did you buy a "Smoke Alarm" or a "Smoke, Alarm"?
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# ¿ Sep 5, 2022 21:30 |