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Renaissance Robot posted:Can you explain what this means? I can't picture it It's been answered, but... You know how there's pads and a disc in there normally? Stick something in that space that is slightly thinner, then squeeze the lever until the pistons both extend. Then reduce the thickness and repeat.
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Feb 14, 2021 20:10
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Slavvy posted:This is how I always do it
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Feb 15, 2021 00:18
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It’s fine if you’re ready for it but, you have to be ready for the violence. I sure as hell wasn’t the first time I did it
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Feb 15, 2021 00:28
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:It’s fine if you’re ready for it but, you have to be ready for the violence. I sure as hell wasn’t the first time I did it The best way is to combine air with the blocking technique so they all push out rather rapidly but with no chance of shotgunning you. The last-word method? Grease gun in the bleed screw, nothing's resisting that but it makes clean up a chore.
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Feb 15, 2021 01:12
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I almost went with the grease gun per CA's recommendation, but I ended up using these pliers and amazingly enough they got all 12 pistons out. They're pricey, but a lot of the cheaper ones had bad reviews at the time.
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Feb 15, 2021 08:24
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Fluid replacement/bleed done, I think? Bubbles stopped coming out of the bleed nipple so that means it's done right? It didn't use nearly as much fluid as I was expecting but if the line's still full of air I guess I'll find out when I try to brake. No idea how I'd have managed without a one way valve on the drain hose, I had to really go hard and fast on the lever to get all the bubbles out and every time I let off the ejected fluid wanted to go back into the caliper.
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Feb 15, 2021 14:32
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Renaissance Robot posted:Fluid replacement/bleed done, I think? Bubbles stopped coming out of the bleed nipple so that means it's done right? It didn't use nearly as much fluid as I was expecting but if the line's still full of air I guess I'll find out when I try to brake. You should be able to tell at least a little by just braking while the bike is sitting and feeling whether it feels normal or not.
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Feb 15, 2021 15:52
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Just been out and it stops quick enough, so I'm happy with that.
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Feb 15, 2021 16:19
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I never trust the pump and dump method Better to get lil' succc  Or his pneumatic brother if you have a compressor  Then there's also the lazy version where you flush with pressurized brake fluid  And the super lazy electric do all 
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Feb 15, 2021 17:14
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Combat Theory posted:Then there's also the lazy version where you flush with pressurized brake fluid I have the Motive version of this for cars and it worked well back when I wasn't too lazy to do it myself
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Feb 15, 2021 18:27
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I'm just gonna buy a bag of speed bleeders for next time.
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Feb 15, 2021 18:30
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All of those are useful widgets but they only 100% reliable method is doing it manually by locking/unlocking the bleed screw. It really is a super simple thing to do, all you need is a bit of hose, yet it seems to be one of those things that's immensely challenging to laymen; I've seen people happy to do their own valve check wilt at the prospect of replacing a master cylinder. Is it that all the instructions out there are really bad? Or are the principles super confusing or something? All you guys post as if it's terrifying and you have to gird your loins with enchanted workshop totems.
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Feb 15, 2021 18:45
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Agreed. I’ve got a vacuum pump but I only use it when I’m doing new lines or dealing with a lot of air. Even a flush is less work with just a little bit of hose, catch can, and wrench.
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Feb 15, 2021 19:35
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The vacuum ones always suck a ton of air between the caliper and bleed nipple at the threads in my experience. I am firmly in the manual bleed camp. Crack the bleeder, pull the lever, close the bleeder, pump the lever, repeat.
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Feb 15, 2021 19:58
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The pressurized pumps are nice for cars though, as I was able to bleed the brakes on my car without having someone else pump the pedal.
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Feb 15, 2021 20:19
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Reverse bleeding from the caliper with 100cc syringe full of clean brake fluid works pretty well for new lines/MCs/etc., but it's not holy-poo poo levels of mindblowing or anything. Just saves you a little bit of messing with the bleed screw, since air wants to travel up, and it''s really only any good for single calipers.
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Feb 15, 2021 21:41
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If I'm replacing something I go vacuum bleeder for convenience followed by hand bleeding for the last little bit. If I'm just changing brake fluid I vacuum out the reservoir, refill with fresh, then just vacuum at the calipers till fresh stuff comes through, then one hand pump just to make sure no air slipped past the bleeders.
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Feb 16, 2021 00:18
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I replaced my tires last weekend. It's pathetic how sore I was the next day. I haven't had any proper exercise since the gyms closed. Apparently walking your dog and riding a bicycle isn't much exercise afterall. I was a little nervous because I don't have high confidence in my mechanical ability, and I have read new tires are slippery to boot. I rode around 200mi the day after, and no drama. Here I took this pic.  I also learned my rear caliper is not actually bolted to anything but instead is pinched between the swing arm and wheel collar, and is prevented from spinning by a groove it slots into. I guess that actually makes sense so the caliper slides with the wheel/axle as you adjust the chain and now I'm not sure any rear calipers are bolted like I assumed they were!
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Feb 18, 2021 04:06
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Nice work. All of them are like that, some of them are just bolted to the sliding part while others use it as an integrated pad carrier. Except for shafties which are bolted on cause they don't need to account for adjustment. The more you know. I hope you used lots of bearing grease, no copper grease, and protip while we're here: get a file and chamfer your lower pad edges, it'll make taking the wheel/brakes on and off a million times easier! Oh and while we're here level 2, the sliding pin is a compromise/simplification feature, the 'ideal' design is either fully floating with a torque rod joining it to the front of the swingarm or frame or something, or positioned on the swingarm so as to have a similar effect as the above. The tide of the rear caliper's fortunes ebb and flow with riding and tyre development; some eras nobody gives a gently caress, other times we get rose jointed adjustable torque linkages on a two piston brembo. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 08:36 on Feb 18, 2021 |
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Feb 18, 2021 08:30
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Slavvy posted:I hope you used lots of bearing grease, no copper grease, and protip while we're here: get a file and chamfer your lower pad edges, it'll make taking the wheel/brakes on and off a million times easier!
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Feb 18, 2021 12:14
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Grease is for the axle and wheel spacers, and caliper pins if it's done a bit of mileage. Copper grease is for copper bottomed fully rigged ocean-going transcontinental lunatics, I can't think of anything you'd want to put it on besides exhaust studs but despite that people keep putting it everywhere thinking they're helping me. Brake pads shouldn't have any kind of goo anywhere near them, anything like that is a bright red moron marker.
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Feb 18, 2021 19:11
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Copper grease on the backs of brake pads is an old wife's remedy for brake squeal/rattling. It doesn't do poo poo though, either your calipers have good retaining springs or they don't. I do like greasing up the threads of any bolts that need to come out with any kind of frequency though, as it seems to stop them from seizing/corroding.
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Feb 18, 2021 20:33
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Slavvy posted:I hope you used lots of bearing grease, no copper grease, and protip while we're here: get a file and chamfer your lower pad edges, it'll make taking the wheel/brakes on and off a million times easier! I didn't  I followed the directions in my service manual, which didn't state to grease anything, which I was surprised by. Or is it one of those "duh dude" things because it's metal-on-metal? Honda seems pretty specific on what to grease with what from what I've seen in here so far, but obviously I know nothing.
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Feb 19, 2021 06:44
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It isn't in the manual, but you grease the axles so they don't rust/catch in the bearings. Makes taking wheels off way easier.
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Feb 19, 2021 08:14
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Renaissance Robot posted:Copper grease on the backs of brake pads is an old wife's remedy for brake squeal/rattling. It doesn't do poo poo though, either your calipers have good retaining springs or they don't. I anti seize everything that remotely looks like stainless since I managed to gall the threads on the O2 sensor port in my new exhaust by having the audacity to screw in the plug bolt without anti seize by hand. Also copper greasing brake pad backs is a thing for cars and harley davidsons and not something that was engineered in the last half century. Ceramic based compounds are also vastly preferable to copper grease and the only option allowed when it comes to ABS or traction control equipped brakes.
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Feb 19, 2021 10:35
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Everything is copper greased on my bike by the PO so every time I remove a screw it is a case of working out if it should be there or not. Engine mount bolts brake caliper bolts, the screws holding the switch gear to the handle bars, side stand bolts. If PO took it off it got greased  . I think I've removed most of the stuff they fitted so hopefully I've cleaned most of it off.A friend had recommended not greasing the axle to stop crap getting stuck to it, but so far I've just put it on clean rags if I remove it. It was a battle to get out even greasy, so that's not getting cleaned off. Thanks! In terms of stuff I did to my bike, I replaced the handlebars with ones which didn't stop with 1cm of the grips flapping in the breeze and fitted some bar end weights.
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Feb 19, 2021 11:00
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Today I changed the oil, plug, and air filter on the postie bike, then pulled the switch blocks apart and cleaned them properly, cleaned the throttle tube and adjusted the throttle, lubed the cables, replaced the torn grips, replaced the poo poo short-stemmed chrome mirrors with ones that I can use to see past my elbows, cleaned lubed and adjusted the chain, checked the brakes were within tolerance, put a new rear reflector on it, and booked it in for inspection. Then I realised that my rear/brake light bulb, hasn't arrived yet and called the guy back and cancelled. At least he laughed about it.
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Feb 19, 2021 12:09
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Found this in a box of old Vespa parts at the shop. Seems to be something missing. All of the remaining components of this bearing looked dirty but in perfect condition though, no gouges or cracks or anything. 
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Feb 20, 2021 05:00
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Found this in a box of old Vespa parts at the shop. Seems to be something missing. All of the remaining components of this bearing looked dirty but in perfect condition though, no gouges or cracks or anything. It has a single-sided front end, obviously it needs a single-sided wheel bearing.
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Feb 20, 2021 07:53
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That's from the superleggera edition
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Feb 20, 2021 08:12
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That weighs 50% of what the Japanese manufacturers claim!
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Feb 20, 2021 08:45
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Has any manufacturer tried to make extra light wheel bearings with far too few balls and new cages to space them out evenly? In theory you could get away with as few as three. It sounds like too stupid an idea for even the Austrians to try, but you never know...
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Feb 20, 2021 08:59
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Sagebrush posted:Has any manufacturer tried to make extra light wheel bearings with far too few balls and new cages to space them out evenly? In theory you could get away with as few as three. What would be the point except maybe cost?
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Feb 20, 2021 09:08
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Reduced unsprung weight, increased weight weenie e-peen
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Feb 20, 2021 09:14
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Sagebrush posted:Has any manufacturer tried to make extra light wheel bearings with far too few balls and new cages to space them out evenly? In theory you could get away with as few as three. Nah instead aftermarket manufacturers can sell you ceramic wheel bearings worth $$$$ that have reduced rolling resistance you can totally feel!
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Feb 20, 2021 09:16
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Sagebrush posted:Has any manufacturer tried to make extra light wheel bearings with far too few balls and new cages to space them out evenly? In theory you could get away with as few as three. I'm certain I remember something about an F1 team (surely Lotus) trying something like that? Quick google isn't finding anything though.
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Feb 20, 2021 09:26
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Txluml6Wzo
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Feb 20, 2021 23:07
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Copper grease? Pshaw. Come by SJ and I'll give you some nickel grease to ruin your brakes with. I have a ton; I got it for my airhead BMW exhaust nut. Serious offer- meet at the Bird ave Safeway if you're interested. I don't have PM, but I watch this thread, obvs. I just finished pulling the carb slides from the oldwing. They have a few spots on the vacuum surface, and some scuffing on the slider. I have no idea if they're bad enough to cause the WOT bogging issue, but I'm going to polish them with Blue Magic, do some light deburring and see how it goes. [edit] Post-polish, all 4 seem to move more freely. Only one of them moved without any sticking at all before polishing. #4 has the most scuffing, but I don't feel a burr on the carb body; I wonder if it was just from sitting for a long time. I buffed the scuffed part of the sliders with a dremel and rouge. It's smoother but marks are still visible; not sure if I can get it much better without really removing some material, which I don't want to do. [after action report] It didn't make much if any difference. I've now replaced the air filter, which was filthy, and am getting a new fuel filter today. I confirmed that the vacuum advance seemed to be working also. New plugs, caps and wires are also on the list. AnnoyBot fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Feb 23, 2021 |
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Feb 21, 2021 06:58
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I'll meet you at that Safeway but only if we go up and over Mount Hamilton
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Feb 24, 2021 05:41
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| # ? Apr 23, 2024 21:37 |
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:The vacuum ones always suck a ton of air between the caliper and bleed nipple at the threads in my experience.  I tried putting tape on the nipple, I tried with all the different adapters that came with the bleeder, I tried a little suction, I tried a lot of suction. Now, six months later, the answer.
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Feb 24, 2021 06:20
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