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TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
After two days of monkeying to work, I switched back to the VStrom. What a contrast!

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SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

Toe Rag posted:

What did I do to my ride? I crashed it :negative:

Full video for context, but you can skip to 3:20 for the crash. Unfortunately my GoPro was in a setting I do not particularly care for, but I didn't notice, so the video isn't super helpful in determining what went wrong (way too little context). To my recollection, I had just let off the brakes and (gently) cracked open the throttle, the front went, and that was that. Based on the video's audio, that seems to be what happened.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2N_Dhx-1SI

Saying "cold tires" kind of feels like a cop out, but honestly I don't know else it would have been. Everything felt under control. I was not in a panic. I wasn't even going fast. This was the first lap of the second session of my first day of the year, so I was building up pace. I've never had a problem with my tires getting up to temperature in my out lap, either. IMO the other riders on my out lap were all going a little slow. I get you take it easy, but you should still be accelerating and braking hard in straight lines to help warm up the tires, and maybe that was a contributing factor. I am responsible for myself, of course, but the last two days I've been to now, I feel a lot of riders in the B group are really slow, maybe even too slow, which feels ridiculous because I am not fast, and my bike is slow as poo poo too. I had my hot pressure at 28F/26R if I recall correctly. I went out on the first session with just normal street to get them warmed up, and they were sliding a lot as expected. They heated up from 29/33 to 33/36 I believe. I'm pretty sure that's where I had them at last track day too, and it was fine? Q3+.

The bike crashed pretty well. My "unbreakable" lever broke. It's supposed to have a 3-year warranty, but I may have forgotten to "activate" it (ridiculous), so let's see if they honor it. My handlebar is bent. The frame, cases, and fork bottom look fine. The fork may have gotten slightly tweaked as the front wheel doesn't spin as freely as normal (stops like 1/4 of a turn instead of 3/5 or something). I think the exhaust took most of the beating. The pipe is slightly bent, so I guess I will keep an eye on it.








Anyway, is there a good reason to buy something like Renthal over OEM replacement bars? Is the bar bending like that a good thing (reducing the force transmitted into the rest of the bike), or just what a cheap handlebar will do? Any particular advice on installing the grips? This is the only thing I feel I may struggle with. I suppose I should use this opportunity to install a heating element for the grips as well.

Hearing you only talk about the damage to the bike makes me think you came out unscatheded and I am happy to hear that.

LimaBiker
Dec 9, 2020




Finally received the brake lines for the Suzuki. So today i mounted the calipers and the fresh brake lines, and cleaned out the one remaining pipe that distributes the brake pressure between the left and right caliper. Which was also full of scale and gunk.
It genuinely surprises me that it could get *this* bad without completely failing. Brakes never dragged, just felt stiff and wooden.

The whole system is now completely free of any gunk, all brake lines are new, all rubbers are new and the pistons are new. Tomorrow i'm gonna check today's work and fill/bleed it.

Then i can finally ride it again, though it'll be going to the shop for checking the valve lash (and while it's there replacing the chain and probably sprockets) pretty soon.

LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 18:51 on May 12, 2023

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Toe Rag posted:

What did I do to my ride? I crashed it :negative:

Full video for context, but you can skip to 3:20 for the crash. Unfortunately my GoPro was in a setting I do not particularly care for, but I didn't notice, so the video isn't super helpful in determining what went wrong (way too little context). To my recollection, I had just let off the brakes and (gently) cracked open the throttle, the front went, and that was that. Based on the video's audio, that seems to be what happened.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2N_Dhx-1SI

Saying "cold tires" kind of feels like a cop out, but honestly I don't know else it would have been. Everything felt under control. I was not in a panic. I wasn't even going fast. This was the first lap of the second session of my first day of the year, so I was building up pace. I've never had a problem with my tires getting up to temperature in my out lap, either. IMO the other riders on my out lap were all going a little slow. I get you take it easy, but you should still be accelerating and braking hard in straight lines to help warm up the tires, and maybe that was a contributing factor. I am responsible for myself, of course, but the last two days I've been to now, I feel a lot of riders in the B group are really slow, maybe even too slow, which feels ridiculous because I am not fast, and my bike is slow as poo poo too. I had my hot pressure at 28F/26R if I recall correctly. I went out on the first session with just normal street to get them warmed up, and they were sliding a lot as expected. They heated up from 29/33 to 33/36 I believe. I'm pretty sure that's where I had them at last track day too, and it was fine? Q3+.

The bike crashed pretty well. My "unbreakable" lever broke. It's supposed to have a 3-year warranty, but I may have forgotten to "activate" it (ridiculous), so let's see if they honor it. My handlebar is bent. The frame, cases, and fork bottom look fine. The fork may have gotten slightly tweaked as the front wheel doesn't spin as freely as normal (stops like 1/4 of a turn instead of 3/5 or something). I think the exhaust took most of the beating. The pipe is slightly bent, so I guess I will keep an eye on it.








Anyway, is there a good reason to buy something like Renthal over OEM replacement bars? Is the bar bending like that a good thing (reducing the force transmitted into the rest of the bike), or just what a cheap handlebar will do? Any particular advice on installing the grips? This is the only thing I feel I may struggle with. I suppose I should use this opportunity to install a heating element for the grips as well.

Bars bend in a crash, that's just what they do, if you get aftermarket bars everything will be slightly different in terms of fit as they will never be a precise match for the factory bar shape, they also won't fit the factory bar end weights. There's no real benefit besides looking cool.

The front wheel not wanting to spin is much more concerning and implies either the disc or the wheel itself is bent so I'd have a real good look at that.

Fwiw my internet opinion is that you crashed from cold tyres + opened the throttle too late

bizwank
Oct 4, 2002

Swapped in a softer throttle return spring as well as a new, cushier seat today, both courtesy of Norton Motorsports. That should resolve my two biggest pain points on long road trips, though a small windscreen may make an appearance if a new helmet doesn't do enough to quell the wind noise/buffeting.

RightClickSaveAs
Mar 1, 2001

Tiny animals under glass... Smaller than sand...


Toe Rag posted:

What did I do to my ride? I crashed it :negative:
Ouch, no fun, glad you walked away without injury. How have those tires been in the past, have you done track days with them before? Maybe they just weren't up to temp yet, how warm was it that day?

The last track days I've done have been really warm early and took no time to heat up.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
Well my WR battery is smoked. Literally.

last night I noticed my tender was blinking red meaning it wasn't charged. I went to turn on my bone and nothing.

I took the battery off and it measured 10.2v. I put it on the real charger and it started charging. I came back out to the garage a little while later and my garage smelled like death. I couldn't figure out what the smell was because it didn't smell like electronics. I went to my battery and sure enough it was hot and smelled terrible. I disconnected it and set it outside to cool off. Well that's $130 yuasa down the drain. It was a few years old but I haven't used it in the last year since I hurt my back. Was hoping that was one thing I wouldn't have to fix when I started riding again.

Well gently caress.

LimaBiker
Dec 9, 2020




Standard dumb chargers can seriously overcharge your batteries because they don't turn off when the battery is full.

If i'm using a dumb charger, i check the voltage every hour or two. If voltage jumps to the full charger voltage almost instantly, with an empty battery, the battery is already completely dead and unrecoverable.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
It's a noco genius 10 charger so it should shut off and has an AGM mode, I've used it on car batteries just fine but I think this battery might have been toast. Oh well, lesson learned. Don't be dumb and forget about a charging battery. Thankfully a few fans and opening my garage door got rid of the smell.

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

SEKCobra posted:

Hearing you only talk about the damage to the bike makes me think you came out unscatheded and I am happy to hear that.

Yeah I'm fine. I have a tiny bruise on my elbow you can't even see, but a massive bruise on my ego :smith:

Slavvy posted:

The front wheel not wanting to spin is much more concerning and implies either the disc or the wheel itself is bent so I'd have a real good look at that.

Yeah I'm gonna give it a proper look over later today or tomorrow. Quick visual wheel and disk looked fine, but I can hear the disc rubbing sounds is stronger than normal (but it sounds even). I ordered replacement bars, bar ends, bar weights, and grips from "Honda Partshouse." It says estimated delivery 5/24, which I hope is true, because I have another day already paid for on June 19. It's a private day, so I cannot reschedule. If I can't take the parts in time, maybe the guy will take pity and refund me. :unsmith:

Dumb question, of course, but I assumed a throttle tube would be separate from the throttle grip, but I only see a throttle grip on the parts fiche. Does it just come together OEM and if you want aftermarket grips you're on your own to sort it?


RightClickSaveAs posted:

Ouch, no fun, glad you walked away without injury. How have those tires been in the past, have you done track days with them before? Maybe they just weren't up to temp yet, how warm was it that day?

The last track days I've done have been really warm early and took no time to heat up.

Yeah, I've done ~300 miles / 3 days on track on these very tires. Two times was probably in high 80s/low 90s but last time was in the 60s, maybe 70s. It was probably a similar temperature when I went down. I don't think ambient/track temp was a factor tbh, but I am also questioning what I know atm. I've never experienced "cold tires" on track before besides the very first corner coming out of the pit with a little too much enthusiasm. I get it's a real thing, but I thought I was doing all right so far :sweatdrop: I was last at this track 18 months ago, and the fastest time I did back then I already bested on the first session, when I wasn't even trying, so I am probably a bit faster now and maybe need to be more cognizant of tire temperature and grip than I have been in the past. Normally when I am going up to the track entrance, I accelerate and brake over and over to help warm up the tires, which I still did, but only a couple times because we were close to the entrance. On the out lap at 3 what-would-be hard braking zones, I am behind someone who isn't going very fast, and I am trying to be polite (and also not get in too deep myself), so I end up not braking very hard either (0:50, 2:00, 2:25). Not trying to make excuses or blame others, just trying to think of what could have contributed, so I don't do it again.

I'm just bummed because it seems so preventable but also stupefying. I was genuinely surprised. At least the bike damage seems pretty minimal.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Just get aftermarket grips, progrips are like $20 and a huge improvement over the factory stuff

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
Honda in their wisdom does not sell replacement grips for their heated grip set for my 2016 vfr, only the whole kit. so it's a cool 500 usd when the rubber wears out.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Honestly, since getting heated gloves I don’t think I’m gonna go back.

They heat the top of your hands, which is the critical piece that heated grips miss, and all you have to do is install a little wiring pigtail on each bike you want to use them on.

The downside is you have to stop and put them on if you don’t already have them on, whereas heated grips you can just flip a switch

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING
I went on a long, nice sunday ride. I had to get going early for reasons, which is the best time really with open roads which is way more fun. I met some nice random strangers at the place I chose to rest halfway and we had a great time lazing in the sun, me mooching off their kickass camping setup.
Home again I did a chain lube deluxe - kerosene and compressed air was involved. I also did some logistical planning towards the effort of changing tires on the bike since the rear finally showed up. Bus rides, wardrobe changes and cargo e-bikes are likely to be involved. Also being late for work. If everything goes perfect the bike will be unrideable only when it's raining and ready for the extra long Jesus-weekend (when I'm alone with the kids and cats and probably won't get to ride the bike at all)

Lastly I downloaded a good scan of the repair manual for the 3rd gen SV650 that bro found on Reddit and kindly shared with me. Unlike the ones I've found on my own previously this one is scanned straight, the pages aren't cropped, all the pages seem to be there and you can search it. Also it isn't for the gladius. Good to have. I'll probably end up printing all 600 pages at some point because that's how I do. For now I'll limit myself to looking up whatever is relevant for a tire change like various torque specs and whatnot.

LimaBiker
Dec 9, 2020




Printing the service documentation is worth it. It's so much easier to flip through a good quality binder with the paper pages, than to scroll back and forth through a PDF.

However, if you gotta pay 5 cents a page to print, you could try and find a printed version. Sometimes stuff gets printed by shady Indian vendors for cheap, or perhaps you can find the original manual.

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING
the last time I saw the original for sale it was like €200+ and now I can't find it at all, so 5c/page seems like a really good deal all things considered. But yeah, manuals on paper is vastly preferable to digital formats when I need the information in greasy dirty settings IMO.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

lol if u don't print and bind the whole shop manual using the work printer with the full color duplexer

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Sagebrush posted:

lol if u don't print and bind literally everything you need to print, ever, using the work printer with the full color duplexer

Nidhg00670000
Mar 26, 2010

We're in the pipe, five by five.
Grimey Drawer
We have some new-fangled poo poo at work where you can print from any computer to any printer in the network via card readers on the printers that read your access card. The side effect of this is suddenly IT can report to your boss how much you're printing. RIP workshop manual prints. :smith:

fake edit: You press print and enter your user and then you can simply walk up to any printer and swipe and it prints, you don't choose a printer beforehand.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Time to befriend the spooler janitor.

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING

Nidhg00670000 posted:

We have some new-fangled poo poo at work
:same: :smith:
a year ago with the old printer I'd just let'er rip but now with this newfangled system I'm afraid I'd get in trouble.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
In 2021 I found some warehouse in Utah that sold OEM service manuals reasonably cheap. I. Think I paid $50-$60 for my Monkey manual. It's a very nice manual and I like stocking things like this with the bike/in the garage

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
I did a thing. PO had it on order when he sold the bike. so he sold it on for cheap when it finally arrived. A couple of kilograms lighter.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ow2RIlw60zo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gv-HUjbObM8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUfAEb7Wlvo

Rode without db killer home. I think i'll keep it like that. A bit less noisy than my old fz6 anyway.

Also took off the bagster tank cover for now. summer temps are finally arriving.

helno
Jun 19, 2003

hmm now were did I leave that plane
Managed to finally get rid of the off idle stalling on the 82 CM250 I traded a 78 CB400T for.

Despite many rounds of cleaning the final fix was #42 idle jet rather than the stock #35. It still bogged with a #40. After taking the carb on and off about half a dozen times I can do it blindfolded.

Not the best trade I have ever made but it has new tires, electric start and my wife likes the seating position.

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING
I hoisted up the bike and took the wheels and tires to the tire place







I also spent a bunch of time building the bracket to hold a pair of new horns for the cargobike. Then I failed to make them toot, the wiring needs a rework. The aliexpress 36v-12v stepdown that was supposed to deliver 10A doesn't - it could only drive one of the horns (and poorly at that) which I measured to draw 3.5A when fed from a car battery. poo poo. I'll try using the 12v circuit only to pull the relay and send 36V to the horns wired in series and see how they like 18V. If they burn up they were cheap. I suppose three horns in series should work. That would mean a new bracket though :effort: Maybe just a beefy resistor in series solves it if 18v is a problem.I have some of those laying around somewhere.

LimaBiker
Dec 9, 2020




They'll survive 18v for quite a while. You could just wire a big resistor in series if they draw a too obscene amount of current. Someting like a hidden headlight bulb with both filaments wired parallel, in series with the horns. Or a real fat wirewound resistor of something between 0,47 and 10 ohms, idk.

Do take care that your horn switch or relay can handle it. You don't want the contacts to weld together. Horns draw a lot of current and are also an inductive load.

Having the horns in series is gonna have an effect on the sound, because the horn interrupts itself (and thus also cut power to the other horn) at the frequency of the tone it gives. Two different tone horns, and you'll get an interesting interaction between them. Or at least i think it'll be interesting.

LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 10:44 on May 17, 2023

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Hopefully they sound like a French ambulance

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING

LimaBiker posted:

They'll survive 18v for quite a while. You could just wire a big resistor in series if they draw a too obscene amount of current. Someting like a hidden headlight bulb with both filaments wired parallel, in series with the horns. Or a real fat wirewound resistor of something between 0,47 and 10 ohms, idk.

Do take care that your horn switch or relay can handle it. You don't want the contacts to weld together. Horns draw a lot of current and are also an inductive load.

Having the horns in series is gonna have an effect on the sound, because the horn interrupts itself (and thus also cut power to the other horn) at the frequency of the tone it gives. Two different tone horns, and you'll get an interesting interaction between them. Or at least i think it'll be interesting.

It's an automotive relay, I think 30A, so it should be fine. I wouldn't dare wire these horns straight through the switch though, that would likely end in contact welding. I'll try straight battery pack 36v (via the currently 10A fuse for everything that isn't the motor) in series and see how it sounds (or burns), as long as it's reliably loud enough to speak to car drivers for a few seconds at a time in a language they understand I'll be happy

Slavvy posted:

Hopefully they sound like a French ambulance

That would rule. I looked into arooga klaxons but all good quality antiques cost megabux (most are 6v too) and the cheap plastic retro stuff seems lovely, also an obsolete inferior way to build a horn. But it would be funny. With the disappointing stepdown current available the point is moot anyways.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Started digging in for the oil pan replacement on the 919.

The exhaust needs to come off, which means the radiator needs to be moved out of the way. Since I have no idea when the PO last did the coolant, I just went ahead and drained it and removed the radiator entirely. Coolant was definitely overdue.



Exhaust nuts looking angry



As I expected, 6 out of the 8 studs came out with the nuts



The head side of the studs is in good shape (as are the threads in the head luckily) but the nut side is a horror show. I tried soaking them for 8 hours and busting the nuts loose, but they are completely fused. The open end of the nut just lets all the moisture and goodness that the front tire throws up in to marinate.



Bleh. I was hoping to reuse these, already had a big parts order come in ahead of time for this job and optimistically just threw a couple nuts on there. Now I need to order new studs and nuts and wait for those to come in. I was tempted to just zip the studs back in as-is but I know that's a bad idea.

At least I have plenty of room to press on with the oil pan replacement in the meantime.



Since I have the time I'll probably clean up the header pipes, did a quick pass on one as a test a little while back and it came out pretty nice.

FBS
Apr 27, 2015

The real fun of living wisely is that you get to be smug about it.


That looks nice. How long did it take?

knox_harrington
Feb 18, 2011

Running no point.

For a 20 year old bike that looks in decent nick to me. I remember trying to swap the exhaust headers on my CBR600FX when it was maybe 7 years old and the first stud just sheared off like it was cheese.

Collateral Damage
Jun 13, 2009

Nidhg00670000 posted:

We have some new-fangled poo poo at work where you can print from any computer to any printer in the network via card readers on the printers that read your access card. The side effect of this is suddenly IT can report to your boss how much you're printing. RIP workshop manual prints. :smith:

fake edit: You press print and enter your user and then you can simply walk up to any printer and swipe and it prints, you don't choose a printer beforehand.
Unless they already hate you, IT doesn't give a poo poo about your service manuals because it's a drop in the ocean compared to the vast amounts of garbage that HR, Legal and Payroll prints. :)

moxieman
Jul 30, 2013

I'd rather die than go to heaven.

Collateral Damage posted:

Unless they already hate you, IT doesn't give a poo poo about your service manuals because it's a drop in the ocean compared to the vast amounts of garbage that HR, Legal and Payroll prints. :)

Having responsibility for the print shop, hr services, and payroll departments at my company, can confirm. No one gives a poo poo about your document unless it consumes multiple cases of paper.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

FBS posted:

That looks nice. How long did it take?

That was about 15 minutes with a scotch brite pad and some metal polish.

knox_harrington posted:

For a 20 year old bike that looks in decent nick to me. I remember trying to swap the exhaust headers on my CBR600FX when it was maybe 7 years old and the first stud just sheared off like it was cheese.

Honestly was half expecting this to happen so I can't complain too much about having to wait on some new hardware.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!

moxieman posted:

Having responsibility for the print shop, hr services, and payroll departments at my company, can confirm. No one gives a poo poo about your document unless it consumes multiple cases of paper.

So no BMW service manuals then

moxieman
Jul 30, 2013

I'd rather die than go to heaven.
Precisely

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING
I just went on a bus ride and picked up the sv sitting on new angel GT tires. First impressions are very favorable. There was no pushing and very mild leaning and they never reached temperature but the bike obviously turns in better, balances better and just the fact that these new tires don't telegraph every single thing in the road surface is worth a lot for the overall experience too. It's like the bike is finally riding the way it's supposed to, which is what I wanted.

spouse
Nov 10, 2008

When our turn comes, we shall not make excuses for the terror.


It's touring time, babyyyyyy.

20 days, 750 miles, and I've spent too much already. Tail tidy from T-rex racing, SWmotech saddlebags, nelson rigg tourer tailbag, OEM comfort gel saddle, Puig z-racing windscreen for just a little more coverage than the very tiny windscreen that comes with the Tuono as stock.



I've got a trip to the beach next weekend, should be a good time. :yayclod:

Nidhg00670000
Mar 26, 2010

We're in the pipe, five by five.
Grimey Drawer

Collateral Damage posted:

Unless they already hate you, IT doesn't give a poo poo about your service manuals because it's a drop in the ocean compared to the vast amounts of garbage that HR, Legal and Payroll prints. :)

That does sound logical and encouraging. On the other hand, my company keeps trying to save on everything, of which 75% is walked back after a couple of months of decreased performance since "ooops, guess that thing was also vital and we didn't realize before we tried cutting cost". :angel:

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Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Unless they actually keep a copy of the document you printed, just rename it to like "Important client document, THIS IS FOR THE CEO.pdf" and print whatever you want

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