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Remy Marathe
Mar 15, 2007

_________===D ~ ~ _\____/

Yup the only way we spot employees doing this, and we only laugh at the ones who are also generally useless, are spotting the obviously non-work filenames in the queue or logs.

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opengl
Sep 16, 2010

Oil pan is on and sealed up w/ Hondabond. Pretty happy with how the engine looks internally for 42k mi

(Yes, I thoroughly, obsessively cleaned off the old stuff first)

spouse
Nov 10, 2008

When our turn comes, we shall not make excuses for the terror.


I once printed out the full DND rulebook and monster manual at work while I was working a holiday. It's been 6 years. I hope they don't catch me.

knox_harrington
Feb 18, 2011

Running no point.

I attempted to put speed bleeders on the Fireblade instead of the standard things and failed: right diameter, wrong thread pitch. Still, changed the brake fluid front and rear. The fluid that came out looked pretty fine tbh.

Then took it for a spin today, such a great bike. I normally find myself reaching for the Scrambler keys because it's so easy to ride in town and convenient, but the Honda is just so precise and a real blast to ride.

Next to a big wooden sausage:

Rusty
Sep 28, 2001
Dinosaur Gum
Took a bunch of plastic off the tail and somehow managed not to break anything. It was a lot more work than it looks like though.

Before:


After:

knox_harrington
Feb 18, 2011

Running no point.

Nice job, looks much better 👍

Pinny
Sep 8, 2006
I put the Evotech one on mine, it was a lot more effort than I initially thought too

You can get an idea of how much smaller the other brake light is here too



Rusty
Sep 28, 2001
Dinosaur Gum

knox_harrington posted:

Nice job, looks much better 👍
Thank you!

Pinny posted:

I put the Evotech one on mine, it was a lot more effort than I initially thought too

You can get an idea of how much smaller the other brake light is here too



That looks really nice, I plan to do more with the lights, but I wanted that plastic crap gone as soon as I could so I just grabbed a cheap kit that actually worked better than I expected. In the middle of the process I was wondering what I had got myself in to, but it worked out.

Chris Knight
Jun 5, 2002

me @ ur posts


Fun Shoe
Turned on my GoPro when starting my ride, then second guessed myself as to whether or not it was on. Used the selfie camera on my phone to see if the red light was on. And I thought it was, but apparently not lol. Oh well.

Main highlights I missed was a really good run with no traffic through Forks of the Credit, some nitwit on a sports bike just winging it between the HOV and regular lanes on the 410 at least 130km/h, and a kid on a BMX giving me the wave :3:

FBS
Apr 27, 2015

The real fun of living wisely is that you get to be smug about it.

Chris Knight posted:

Turned on my GoPro when starting my ride, then second guessed myself as to whether or not it was on. Used the selfie camera on my phone to see if the red light was on. And I thought it was, but apparently not lol. Oh well.

one upside of dorky stock mirrors: I can usually lean over on the move to see my camera when this happens to me. On the Honda with lanesplitters I can only pull it off when I'm stopped.

Chris Knight
Jun 5, 2002

me @ ur posts


Fun Shoe
Yeah I've normally done that exact move, idk what was going on in my thought process.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
Finally bit the bullet and started my top end rebuild on my wr250. I've never done engine work besides checking and shimming valves so this should be fun. I'm using Rocky mountain ATVs video as a guide because they use a very similar bike and it's very detailed.



Umm. These lines on the mating surface can't be great. I'm genuinely curious what the gently caress happened there. It doesn't leak so I'll leave it alone but still... :stare:





I knew it had been rebuilt at one point because the engine bolts were worn. When I opened it, I saw a wiseco connecting rod.

The cylinder looks very clean with some cross hatching still, no obvious other imperfections. The piston has a bunch of crusty carbon on top but otherwise pretty clean. The rings are in good shape, nothing missing. No metal bits. It's better than I would've thought. I was very happy to feel there wasn't any vertical play in the connecting rod bearing.

I need to break down the valves/springs/seats to replace the valves but I need a valve tool.

5 titanium valves ... My poor wallet.

Oh and I straightened my radiator only to drop a screwdriver and create a pinhole leak. Fuuuck.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Those lines are probably from someone bracing screwdrivers across the hole in order to jam up the piston in order to undo a crank nut without having a rattle gun. Terrible idea, I'm honestly surprised it didn't leak out of there.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Ooof. Rope will work in a pinch without causing that kind of damage

Slide Hammer
May 15, 2009

You could even use a towel, if it wasn't raggedy. When I need to undo the output sprocket nut on bikes, I wrap an old wooden baseball bat in an old pair of corduroy pants and jam that in the rear wheel. Works just fine. (I imagine that rope would work well for spokes, where an entire baseball bat can't fit.)

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

opengl posted:

Started digging in for the oil pan replacement on the 919.

The exhaust needs to come off, which means the radiator needs to be moved out of the way. Since I have no idea when the PO last did the coolant, I just went ahead and drained it and removed the radiator entirely. Coolant was definitely overdue.



Exhaust nuts looking angry



As I expected, 6 out of the 8 studs came out with the nuts



The head side of the studs is in good shape (as are the threads in the head luckily) but the nut side is a horror show. I tried soaking them for 8 hours and busting the nuts loose, but they are completely fused. The open end of the nut just lets all the moisture and goodness that the front tire throws up in to marinate.



Bleh. I was hoping to reuse these, already had a big parts order come in ahead of time for this job and optimistically just threw a couple nuts on there. Now I need to order new studs and nuts and wait for those to come in. I was tempted to just zip the studs back in as-is but I know that's a bad idea.

At least I have plenty of room to press on with the oil pan replacement in the meantime.



Since I have the time I'll probably clean up the header pipes, did a quick pass on one as a test a little while back and it came out pretty nice.



opengl posted:

Oil pan is on and sealed up w/ Hondabond. Pretty happy with how the engine looks internally for 42k mi

(Yes, I thoroughly, obsessively cleaned off the old stuff first)



New exhaust hardware came in Friday. Chased the stud threads, installed the new studs (with anti seize on the studs and nuts so it hopefully doesn't fight me should it need to come off again. btw those glue stick style anti seize dispensers rule), new exhaust gaskets and got the manifold back on. I left the two studs in place that stayed in the head, didn't want to risk complications even though I had new ones, the threads cleaned up fine on those two.



From there I got everything else buttoned up. Radiator back on after a deep cleaning with new clamps and repainted end tanks.

The overflow bottle can't come out without removing the shock (wtf) so I rigged up a siphon to drain and flush it. Ran a gallon of distilled water through the system, filled with another gallon, ran up to temp, drained, repeated once more until the water came out reasonably clear, refilled with 50/50 and burped the air out.



Took it for a shakedown ride today, happy to report no oil, water, or exhaust leaks. I also installed a quickshifter today, the same healtech unit I put on my 390, love it. So fun to just snick snick snick through the gears.

The exhaust cleaned up pretty nice, still a few spots I want to touch up but it's worlds better than it was before. Did my annual detailing as well. It still shines up pretty good!



Chris Knight
Jun 5, 2002

me @ ur posts


Fun Shoe
Didn't capture anything on the way home either, apparently I need to re-learn how to operate a GoPro

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Welp. I replaced my handlebars. I tried just lightly brushing rubbing alcohol onto the bar and grip to help ease it on, but it evaporated too quickly. I struggled for a few minutes until I just poured some down the open end of the grip, and it immediately slipped on. I wasn't able to feed enough throttle cable into the little housing so I could change out the throttle grip, and you have to take the tank off to get to the other end. The little 90˚ elbow and barrel adjuster is pretty bent, I just noticed, so I'm going to replace that and do the throttle grip at that time (the throttle grip is basically fine, just a little gouge in it, but since I bought a replacement, may as well install it).

If I keep twisting the throttle past the stop, the little switch gear housing will turn (this doesn't happen if I am just turning the throttle normally, but it also doesn't take a huge amount of force to make it happen; I can't qualify it because I have never tried before). It's just plastic that clamps down on the bar and grip. I tightened the screws more than seems normal, and since it's just going into plastic, I don't want to keep going. It looks like there is a little rubber tab inside that is supposed to help it grip and is just smashed to poo poo? Or will that just happen and I'm being overly paranoid? I don't want to waste $40 on a plastic switchgear if I don't need to!

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

There is supposed to be a small peg moulded into the switch block which interlocks with a hole in the factory bar.

If you have an aftermarket bar, it's common for people to be unaware of this or too lazy to do anything about it so they just smash the little peg off instead of drilling a hole in the bar. If that's the case, you can wind a small self tapping screw into where the peg used to be to act as a pin, then drill a hole in the bar for the screw to go into.

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

OK, sweet. I'll check it out. It's an OEM bar, and there is 100% a hole on the bottom right where the switchgear goes.

I also couldn't find any sign of damage on the wheel or rotor (I forgot to pull and check the axel). I did the little "fork align pump" thing, and it seems to be spinning normally again. I'm going to take it on a short freeway ride and check the rotor temperature (without using the front obv). As long as the temperature remains fairly steady then I should be in the clear? I guess I'd compare it to how much the rear raises. Bike maintenance and repair is obviously not my area of expertise.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

You could use a laser thermometer but that's like trying to work out if your steak is burned using a spectrograph - not technically wrong, but also wildly unnecessary when normal human faculties will do. Just go for a ride and do a few big brakes, making sure there's no wobbly disc pulsing, then stop, put the bike in neutral and see if it still feels normal to wheel around ie the brake isn't grabbing or getting stuck. If that's fine then it's fine.

Comparing front and rear brake temps will tell you pretty much nothing, I'm afraid.

Supradog
Sep 1, 2004

A POOOST!?!??! YEEAAAAHHHH
I replaced the stock levers with some cheapo aftermarket fully adjustable ones. Quality seems ok, but nothing more. Still better range of adjustability than the stocks.





Also installed a no name clear center tank protector. it looked like crap so that will be replaced with a black one.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
KLX300R hit 100 hours / 2 years. Time for some cleaning and a new spark plug. I had recently changed the oil.
Polished the exhaust can somewhat, cleaned everything real good. I had the airbox out and disassembled it to really get all the sand out.
Unseated every connector, blew the dust out, some fresh dielectric, reseat.





Bent exhaust hanger. I whacked it straight.



Looks pretty good!



Still needs a valves check and new drive components (sprockets, chain) but I gotta order parts. I'm not good at planning.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

Today is washing out helmet padding day.

If you haven't done it before, do so (pop out the padding, fill up the sink with water and a bit of laundry soap, soak and squeeze) and prepare to be grossed out.

RightClickSaveAs
Mar 1, 2001

Tiny animals under glass... Smaller than sand...


Sagebrush posted:

Today is washing out helmet padding day.

If you haven't done it before, do so (pop out the padding, fill up the sink with water and a bit of laundry soap, soak and squeeze) and prepare to be grossed out.
Thanks for the reminder, going to do that this weekend! Long overdue.



Today, I was the PO. What I did to my bike was broke a couple tabs on the CBR600RR fairings. Started removing them in preparation of getting the forks out as I've got a fork seal leak already. Started out filled with the satisfaction of working on something that hadn't been hosed with yet, only to find myself becoming the fucker. I get to the front cowl, thought I had all the retaining screws as specified in the service manual, surprise there were two hiding up in the front that snapped the plastic tabs when I gave it a hearty tug.





Mad at myself but also mad at the service manual as I don't see 6 of them specified there? Or am I dumb? Got the two on each side from the diagram I thought, so I had 4 total. Or were the 4 they called out supposed to be the bottom 4 only? The service manual diagrams for this bike I find hard to make out, but again I've done this like on two bikes in my life so it's very likely user error.



Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

That is the standard Honda fairing experience

Live long enough as a fuckee and you'll find yourself becoming the fucker

knox_harrington
Feb 18, 2011

Running no point.

I fabricobbled together a GPS mount from the one that comes with the Garmin and a SP Connect phone case. It was pretty annoying and I had to trim down a few bolts. It's bolted and epoxied together, seems solid anyway.



Got a net to go inside the top box. It should really come with this poo poo


Givi sell a couple of soft back rest things to attach to the box. A bit disappointingly they're just self adhesive and also look bit dorky.


I made a cable for tying up my helmet, just a deterrent rather than anything else.


This is all so I can go swimming, busy down by the lake today

Slide Hammer
May 15, 2009

knox_harrington posted:

I made a cable for tying up my helmet, just a deterrent rather than anything else.


Wait... don't motorcycles still get sold with helmet locks?

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

Slide Hammer posted:

Wait... don't motorcycles still get sold with helmet locks?

Do you mean the metal wire strap you put under the seat? Most inconvenient thing ever, would never use.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

SEKCobra posted:

Do you mean the metal wire strap you put under the seat? Most inconvenient thing ever, would never use.

I've had a few bikes with a hook(s) under the seat you slip the D ring into, and reinstall the seat, locking the helmet in place. It was super convenient. None of my current bikes have that though.

Slide Hammer
May 15, 2009

Oh crap, have helmet locks gone the way of the centerstand? Unconscionable.

SEKCobra posted:

Do you mean the metal wire strap you put under the seat? Most inconvenient thing ever, would never use.

On most bikes—well, I mean, the ones I'm used to, which are all old now, I suppose—The helmet lock was just a key-actuated hook off to the side of the seat, and beneath, over the chain guard on most bikes. When you turn the key, the hook dips down, and you can slot your helmet's metal d-rings into it, like opengl said. Then you turn the key back and the hook lifts up into the frame, such that there's no room to pull the d-rings off of the hook. And, you just leave your helmet like that. I use it every day when I go to work.

If it rains, you have to finagle your helmet into a position where water can't get inside. Or, I mean, you can try...

knox_harrington
Feb 18, 2011

Running no point.

Yeah my 1999 CBR600F had a hook under the seat you could stick through a D-ring, but no bike I've had since then has had one.

knox_harrington
Feb 18, 2011

Running no point.

And last of all I did a shock upgrade

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
My Monkey has a lock for helmet cables





I bought a cheap take off top case for the VStrom. There's a crack, I had to drill holes, but it's solidly mounted now and it just makes my commute a little easier. I can leave the side cases at home AND I have a place to store my helmet.
Also dad-bikefication complete I guess

Chris Knight
Jun 5, 2002

me @ ur posts


Fun Shoe

opengl posted:

I've had a few bikes with a hook(s) under the seat you slip the D ring into, and reinstall the seat, locking the helmet in place. It was super convenient. None of my current bikes have that though.
Shoei ratchet straps! :argh:

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




knox_harrington posted:

And last of all I did a shock upgrade



:kiss:

Deeters
Aug 21, 2007


On my Buell, I got PO'd: A few weeks ago, I noticed a noise under acceleration. I thought it sounded like a fan belt, but my drive belt doesn't have any adjustability to it, so that wouldn't make any sense. Then I remembered that the PO had elongated one of the holes on the tensioner pulley mount so he could adjust tension (it makes it shift smoother or something). Loosened up the mount, rotated it to put more tension on the belt, and suddenly the squealing was gone. Shifts just fine too.

On my DRZ, I just messed up myself. Did an oil change and decided to run it around the block, and noticed it wouldn't idle without the choke on. Did I put stabilizer in the gas before winter? Maybe. Did I drain the bowls before I parked it? Nope. I'll be saving pulling the carb for another weekend.

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Slavvy posted:

You could use a laser thermometer but that's like trying to work out if your steak is burned using a spectrograph - not technically wrong, but also wildly unnecessary when normal human faculties will do. Just go for a ride and do a few big brakes, making sure there's no wobbly disc pulsing, then stop, put the bike in neutral and see if it still feels normal to wheel around ie the brake isn't grabbing or getting stuck. If that's fine then it's fine.

Comparing front and rear brake temps will tell you pretty much nothing, I'm afraid.

Since I am incredibly lazy I just got around to this. My thought process was, if I go for a ride using only the rear brake, and if the front brake isn't messed up, then the rear rotor should be hot relative to the front. But anyway, I just did what you said, and it all feels normal and fine. Which is good news! Because I have a (very expensive non refundable) private day at Thunderhill on Thursday.

Slightly less good news. My tank is now reporting empty (even though it's full!). I am assuming one of the wires on the fuel level sensor was knocked loose. Presumably the float is some sort of potentiometer and a dry contact and I won't die in a fiery explosion.

My question is, though, the FSM says to replace it with a new one if any wire is in fact disconnected.



But when I look at the fiche for the tank, there does not appear to be anything?



18 is "fuel unit" -- could that possibly be it? Or am I most likely buying a new fuel pump assembly? This crash keeps getting more expensive :negative:

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

It looks like it's #18 on the diagram but I would really make sure it's faulty first

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knox_harrington
Feb 18, 2011

Running no point.

aaaaaAAAAAAAAAHH having decided to take the Fireblade and having a great trip over the Alps, now the loving thing won't start.

I hssa dead battery before but this is slightly different there is a bunch of clicking from under the seat and then the CEL comes on.



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