Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Vork!Vork!Vork!
Apr 2, 2008

vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!

Phy posted:

Hmm. That's the 22-cent mod, yes? I know that one's been around for years and probably close to adequately tested, and .net can be a good site for technical information, but after reading the admin's defense of HHO generators in this thread, complete with accusations of detractors being under the thumb of the Big Three, I may have to start taking whatever this guy says with a grain of salt.

Yeah I am also interested in how well this mod works. Retarded Pimp, did you notice any difference in mileage after completing the mod? I guess that is my main concern, I don't want to lose a great deal of mileage.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Vork!Vork!Vork!
Apr 2, 2008

vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!

EvilDonald posted:

Well, I adjusted the valves and doohickey today. I only had one out of spec, and luckily enough I was able to get a shim the right size from my local guy. Problem is he spent about five minutes rooting around in a box, and when he did find a used shim in there he charged me $13 for it. Guess it's time to just order a shim kit online.

Oh well, it's reassembled and running, so no matter.

What kind of shape was your doohickey in? I changed mine at 7k and it looked like new yet.

Vork!Vork!Vork!
Apr 2, 2008

vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!

EvilDonald posted:

I replaced it when I first got the bike, all I did the other day was loosen and tighten the lock bolt. Although when I replaced the doohickey a year ago I was a dummy and got half the bike together when I realized that I'd reassembled it with the old spring. :doh: So it still needs to come back apart, I'll probably put in one of the torsion springs next oil change.
Interesting, I guess I should have done some more reading before I replaced my doohicky. I left the old spring in because it was still providing lots of tension at 7k miles. I will probably pull the first cover and check the spring again at about 10k miles.

My KLR still needs lots of work. Some things that need to done fairly soon: replace the rear tire, disassemble the rear arm and grease all the pivot points. One thing that needs to be done now is fix the speedometer. I usually does not work at all, and if it does work, it only goes up to about 20 mph.
Another strange quirk that needs to be fixed is a squeaky exhaust. At lower rpms and especially at idle, it emits out of the muffler a squeaky noise or sort of a whistling sound. the exhaust system does not have any leaks and the noise seems to originate in the muffler.
I also need a new clutch lever after snapping the part of the end off my current one. for an '04 it seems to breaking faster than I can fix it. Time to get a '08+ :haw:

Vork!Vork!Vork!
Apr 2, 2008

vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!

EvilDonald posted:

I fixed the running problem. Happily I fixed it without pulling the valve cover a third time.

Motherfucking pinched carb vent tube. Ugh. I unplugged it from the carb, and she runs great. Now to do final reassembly and go for a test ride. I'll leave the hose off until I pull the seat and tank again, and do the "T-mod" to stop further occurences.

But anyway, YAY! I have a functional bike again!
I have been meaning to do the "t-mod" to my klr, just to prevent any frustration in the future. I would probably rip the bike half apart like you trying to fix it.
As for my klr things have been progressing slowly.
Still no speedo, after the stock one broke and kawasaki wanted $160 for one part, I decided to go the aftermarket route. I bought a acewell 3901 and spent an entire day installing it. Took it out for a test drive and the speedo on it did not work. sent it back to acewell. Of course the tech could not find anything wrong it. He said he would call me back if he could find a solution. No call back for over a week now and he never returned my call today.

Installed Maier Woodsman pro deluxe handguards, was not overly impressed with the installation of them. However they seem plenty strong.
I tried to fix the squeaky exhaust by following the klr internet commando's solution, which is punching holes in the spark arrester. No more squeak at idle, but now I can hear it when cruising down the highway.

I am about half way done with my radiator protecter/crash bars. And after they are done I will start on building rear luggage racks.

Vork!Vork!Vork!
Apr 2, 2008

vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
Well I finished some of my projects on the KLR recently.
Front radiator protector/crash bars are painted and installed.
Rear frame for pelican 1520 cases is now finished:

Click here for the full 1024x766 image.

Acewell speedometer is finally installed and working correctly. I had been having problems with it, but it turns out there was nothing wrong with the acewell unit. When I had installed front brakes early this summer I had not lined up the front engagement ring for the speedometer drive hub on the front wheel and had bent it. I initially thought the stock speedometer had broke because when I took the speedo cable off and spun the front tire the hub seemed to work, however due to the bent piece any resistance on the front hub caused it to not turn. So the stock speedometer had nothing wrong with it. Oh well the acewell is quite a bit nicer.

Click here for the full 1024x768 image.

Vork!Vork!Vork!
Apr 2, 2008

vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
In the past when working on my KLR I just laid it over on a stack of old tires. The KLR is a fairly rugged bike and is hard to hurt.

quote:

You don't think I could get it off with a half-inch drive socket wrench?
Put a cheater pipe on the wrench and that should be enough.

Vork!Vork!Vork!
Apr 2, 2008

vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!

Chill_Bebop posted:


I'd like to turn a couple of these 40mm Cans in panniers, but that will take some creative mounting. Also, they weight a loving ton.


Its pretty common to see them in that use though, they are pretty much exactly the right size:

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f379/Thatothersmaylive/Bikes/V-Strom%20ammo%20cans/P1010056.jpg

I wouldn't bother with the ammo cans, they just weigh to much. I was going to do the same thing but after adding up the weight of two cans and a heavy duty mounting system, I came up with something else. This is assuming that you will be riding off road. If you want to build reasonably priced side panniers I recommend Pelican cases.

Vork!Vork!Vork!
Apr 2, 2008

vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
Buttoned up my KLR today after I adjusted my valves. I had gone over the time period for adjustment on the valves (12k never been adjusted before). They were all tight (varied between .002'' to .004''). Sounds different now and I think that it might be a little more responsive. I also flushed the coolant system, so it should be ready another 6k miles this summer again. Had to test ride it, so I took it in the snow. Only dumped it once.

Vork!Vork!Vork!
Apr 2, 2008

vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
Up graded the sub frame bolts on my KLR today.
This is what came out:

Click here for the full 1024x768 image.

As you can see one was already broke, and I am lucky I didn't hit a bad bump and take the other one out.
Granted I usually always carry junk on the back my KLR (oddest load was 20lb of cheese), but I would recommend all KLR owners to do the upgrade.
These bolts are replaced by a single M10 grade 12.9 bolt, a jump up from two M8 grade 10.9 bolts.

Vork!Vork!Vork!
Apr 2, 2008

vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
Installed Ricor Intiminators, what a world of difference. This big tractor now just soaks up the bumps, holds a line better, and has decreased brake dive.

Vork!Vork!Vork!
Apr 2, 2008

vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
the picture for my avatar is not very original, but yours cracked me up when i first saw it.

Also its too bad that you were unable to get the torsion spring system to work. It seems like a good idea in theory to eliminate the need to ever open it up again to put in a shorter spring.

On my dad's klr I used the torsion spring when replacing his doohicky. His had 7k on it and it seems the previous owner never loosened the bolt to let the doohicky adjust. The spring was banging around in there with one end ground off.
On mine I used the original spring (it was still in great shape), so someday I will open it again to check it.

Let me know how that rotor works, its on my maybe list.

Vork!Vork!Vork!
Apr 2, 2008

vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!

Retarded Pimp posted:

Did a valve check on the KLR, one EX and one In are tight, the cams are coming off tomorrow.
You might already know this, but how you worded it sounds odd. Anyways You don't have to pull the cams out, just take the timing chain tensioner out and then take the cam holders out. Then lift the cams just enough to take the shims out.

Vork!Vork!Vork!
Apr 2, 2008

vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!

Chill_Bebop posted:

Man I never come in here anymore. I tend to ride my bike more than post in CA nowadays.

Changed the rear sprocket back to the factory one and got some new tires. Ive heard mixed things about the Kenda K270s, but so far I like them. Better than the previous bridgestones by far. My mechanic adjusted my clutch back to normal, wire wrapped my grips (I was gonna replace them anyway dude!) and monkeyed around a little free of charge. Cool guys. Bike is filthy but who cares, its a dual sport. Am I still the only XR650L owner in CA? Sometimes, when passing all the KLR riders, I feel like I am the only XR rider in the world :(






i like your xr. i had the opportunity to ride an xr650l and i must say the torque is quite addictive.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Vork!Vork!Vork!
Apr 2, 2008

vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!vork!
where are you finding these insane tw200s? or are they finding you? :psyduck:

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply