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I put fuel in my sv this morning.. and it started running smoother and just felt... better. Guess I put some dodgy gas in it last time or something. (new rider too, first bike.. 3rd or 4th tank of gas).
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May 18, 2010 02:56
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Ola posted:I've spilled gas on my engine a couple of times. Nothing bad ever happened, even if the gas sizzled from the heat but it remains a recurring nightmare of mine. Splash of gas leads to big news report with me in the background all I spent 2 weeks on a Minsk (125cc aircooled 2 stroke single) and got gas on the hot engine nearly every time I filled it up.. It scared the hell out of me too but the locals didn't seem phased by it at all. I think our safety standards are a little skewed.
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Oct 19, 2010 13:56
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Shogun frame sliders on my sv650s. Should have put them on before the crash.. but oh well..
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Nov 3, 2010 03:36
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Bled the front brakes on the sv. Made a huge difference - stopping power is improved and the lever is much firmer. I bought a 'lil bleeder' but I honestly don't trust it I think it was letting air back into the system so I did it with tightening/loosening the bleed nipple the while time. I still want to do the back but the effort seems not to be worth it considering how little I use that brake and it seems to work fine.
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Feb 14, 2011 05:22
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Finally got around to swapping the springs in my SV650. Changed them out for some .90 springs from sonic springs. The install was reasonably painless except getting the front axle off was a massive pain in the rear end. Ended up drilling a hole in the end of a 2x4 and using it as a breaker bar. I haven't taken it for a real ride yet, but just on the shakedown spin around the block it felt a lot better. My street has really lovely pavement with tons of cracks and potholes which usually bottom out the weak forks on the SV but now that is solved.
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Mar 26, 2011 23:50
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prepped it for the track. so excited. Texas World Speedway tomorrow. If anyone from here is going I'll be the guy with a black jeep grand cherokee and uhaul trailer and red sv650s with blue tape. Come say hi or something.
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Apr 8, 2011 21:27
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schreibs posted:sounds like someones first time actually.. 3rd. Can't help it... But this time I'm going by myself and since I know there is other Houston riders here somewhere figured why not.
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Apr 8, 2011 22:01
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Pulled a long industrial type staple out of the back tire. Decided to finally go buy a rear stand and new tire and change it out myself. Bought said rear stand, went home, removed wheel, took to shop and got new tire mounted and balanced. When I got home getting the wheel in was easy enough. Getting the drat thing aligned - holy hell am I retarded. I took photos of the adjusters before removing the wheel and basically set it up the same way. But something bothered me about it so I looked up the string method. Unfortunately I couldn't find any string so I used a gift wrapping ribbon my girlfriend left unattended on a table. The ribbon was kind of hard to work with, so went back to the internet and read some more guides on how to do this. I then got out fishing line and used that. Put it around the rear wheel so that it just touched the front edges. Aligned the front wheel to be parallel to the line, which moved the bike enough to put the fishing line out of alignment. Repeat a couple times to 'get it right'. At this point I realized that using the old settings on the adjusters put the back wheel WAY out of whack with the front, and I wonder how I never noticed it. So then I adjusted the adjusters (had to smack the tire a good bit to actually make it move) and tried again. It was within a couple of millimeters so I figure that is good enough. Tomorrow is a group ride, so hope that the drat thing holds together.
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May 7, 2011 03:30
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KARMA! posted:To check alignment, go a safe speed and let go of the handlebars. If it starts to pull to either the left or the right, it is out of alignment. This is a more precise, but do understand that you'll also feel any alignment issues that don't originate from the rear, such as twisted front forks. I seemed to have gotten it pretty good actually. I was surprised. Bike tracked pretty much straight when the pavement was dead flat, and followed the gradient of the road a little otherwise.
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May 9, 2011 23:12
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Cleaned and chain in the rain instead of riding.
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May 12, 2011 02:48
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Replaced the fan switch moves air on radiator bike happy again
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Jun 25, 2011 16:56
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Drunk Pledge Driver posted:Got hit by my friend... I posted this on another forum asking what I should do... Sounds like you both came out about even in terms of damage. I wouldn't ask him to pay for the damage. Stuff like that happens.
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Jul 2, 2011 23:40
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Changed plugs on the SV. Was pretty easy, I thought I'd have less room to work behind the radiator but there was plenty. On my girlfriends bike ( 2001 ls650 .. suzuki 'savage') I took off the head cover to fix an oil leak. bikebandit shipped my gaskets and other stuff last week so should have them in a day or two and bike is now ready to install them. Also looking for a cheap harley shorty muffler for the LS650.
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Jul 4, 2011 17:09
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Put my girlfriends ls650 'savage' back together after taking it apart to fix an oil leak. I must've done something right because it started right up and ran a lot better than before I started loving with it. I've got a feeling I inadvertently fixed a vacuum leak or something because prior to this it wouldn't stay running even with the choke on, and took about 10 minutes before I could get it off choke without it stalling. I thought it was something to do with the carb and was getting ready to clean that. This time it started right up and ran like a champ from the get go. At this point I could care less if the leak starts back up.. Riser plates also arrived for the SV so I'll be putting those on tomorrow in anticipation for my next track day... in a month.. may as well get used to it on the street. Track days are an addiction.
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Jul 23, 2011 02:44
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:You'll grow a lot as a person when you start having to do everything for yourself. Also you can walk around naked any time you want. Content: new tires today, new brake pads and I get to prep for the track tomorrow. whoop whoop!
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Aug 18, 2011 01:51
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I replaced the stock pads on my SV650 with EBC HH rated pads. Holy. poo poo. I haven't broken them in yet (will go do that tonight) but the quick test up and down the street resulted in what felt like a near-endo and I slid forward on the seat unexpectedly and racked myself against the tank. I'm looking forward to the pads after they're broken in properly.
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Aug 24, 2011 19:39
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KozmoNaut posted:I've got ~1500km on mine now. They lose a little bit of that initial "whoa Nelly" bite and become a bit more progressive when they're broken in, stopping power is good and strong. Good to know - I was kinda thinking they may stay this way which would make riding a little more interesting to say the least. Next up (when I have some more money to throw into the industrial sized shredder which is motorcycling) is stainless steel braided lines!
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Aug 24, 2011 20:00
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KozmoNaut posted:I was told you have to watch out with the EBC HH pads in the rain. Apparently they slip on the water until you apply enough pressure and then they bite all at once, not so good. Good to know. Bedding the pads in was fun. Went to an empty car park and inadvertently practiced endos for a while.. Unfortunately I found that my bleeder valves are weeping a little from the threads. I was pretty careful not to over torque them so I really hope I didn't damage them or especially the calipers, but the fact that they're both weeping isn't making me hopeful. Originally I thought it may have just been fluid which got into the threads as I was bleeding, so I wiped it off before riding. Unfortunately when I stopped after breaking in the pads they had weeped some more. Nothing major, though I think the brake lever is a little softer (may be in my mind). I read on the internet that taking them out and checking the surfaces in the caliper/the tapered end of the bleeder bolt for dirt and cleaning it up may help.. Though If I did mess them up and galled the surfaces I'll be pretty pissed. Ordered some speedbleeders the other day which have thread sealant on them which I hope will serve to stop the leak enough for track day this weekend.
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Aug 25, 2011 22:07
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Z3n posted:Sometimes you'll get a little fluid in the tubes of the bleeders that will weep out after you ride it again. Wipe everything up, go for another ride, and see if it still leaks. I went and got some brake cleaner today and cleaned the poo poo out of everything really well - I took the bleeder bolts out and inspected the ends and couldn't see any damage. In both holes I found some dirt when I cleaned it out with a qtip. In one in particular there was a definite chunk of black stuff that came out. On one I saw a small shaving of metal on one of the threads. it was nearly at the top of the thread not near the bottom. The tip of that bleeder looked ok and the thread looked fine too, and when I looked inside both holes as well as I could there was no obvious damage to the 'seat' that I could see. Sprayed everything with brake cleaner and wiped it off then reassembled and bled the brakes again. I torqued everything down to about 7.5 ftlbs, though my torque wrench is a cheap beam type and that was right at the bottom of the scale so don't know how accurate it was. Cleaned with brake cleaner again. When I put the rubber caps back on I pumped both until fluid stopped coming out of the threads, cleaned it off again with brake cleaner and went for a short 2 minute ride where I did maybe a half dozen moderate stops from about 30mph. Came home and one bleeder is dry, the other one has a SLIGHT wetness around the thread, but its better than before. Im going to take it out for a longer ride tonight and see what comes of it. I also think I need to put brand new fluid in the system cause the lever isn't as firm as I'd like. I used RBF600 that I've had sitting around (tightly sealed but still) for about 4-5 months, so when the speed bleeders come in I'll buy a new bottle of fluid and flush the whole system. If you noticed that I mentioned brake cleaner a lot, its because I'm feeling light headed from using so much of it. Im slightly OCD when it comes to this type of stuff. Especially the brakes. edit - they both have a small amount of wetness around the threads. GanjamonII fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Aug 26, 2011 |
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Aug 26, 2011 00:38
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Z3n posted:Hand tighten them a bit more with a small wrench. I wouldn't trust a beam style torque wrench at 7.5 pounds. They should be comfortably snug. Put some speedbleeders on today.. I'm seriously impressed with these things. Super easy to install and the bleeding is super fast. Also flushed with new(er) DOT 4 fluid and the brakes feel really good. And the leaks are gone now too - I compared the tips of the speedbleeders to the old ones and the old ones do have some very slight scoring which I didn't really notice before but I'm not sure if that was enough to leak. Even if the thread sealant is sealing the system now its better than before. I'll take it for a longer shakedown cruise tomorrow and see how it goes but I feel good about going to the track with them now.
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Aug 26, 2011 23:55
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Put a new battery in the Tuono. New AGM type battery, fires right up now, no hesitation unlike on the old battery. I thought abut putting a YTX14 in there which is what the aprilia forums guys recommend, but I couldn't see a way to fit that in there without leaving it unsecured so went with the stock YTX12 size. I also figured out how the one button menu navigation thing works. Lap timer is freaking cool. I found the clutch slave cylinder banjo was weeping slightly. Torqued that up a little and it has stopped. I think someone may have reused the copper washers on it so I've made a mental note to replace those when I have to bleed it next. Clutch works great so I don't think she needs it yet. Next step is to get some bits and pieces from the local electronics store and make up a permanent wired connection for the battery tender to keep this battery in good shape when I can't ride or am out of town etc. Need to bleed the front brake on my wife's bike and then go out for an evening ride together.
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Sep 18, 2011 19:57
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Saga posted:IF the clamp's like the one on the older Tuono, you can fit a ytx14 just by making a spacer for the clamp and using a longer bolt. With the taller battery the seat secures it anyway, so the clamp's slightly redundant. The clamp doesn't sound the same, the newer gen has a plastic bracket/clamp thing that is held on with two hex bolts. To move it up would require re-drilling higher up the tail section (best I can describe it) and I don't want to do that particularly much at the moment. However I need to go back and check again how the bigger battery would fit cause this morning it had a similar symptom - it wouldn't start on the first go, turned over a couple times with nothing. I tried it again two seconds later and it fired up. I am going to check the 'brown connector' when I get home today and see if that is toast. If so I have the bits and pieces to fix it. From my understanding this year only had one instead of two. I hope that's the case. Also the PO seemed to use some really wet lube on the chain. I use a spray on wax thing and it leaves mostly dry crud on the chain guard and sprocket cover when it mixes with dirt etc. Whatever this guy used left wet grease type gunk everywhere. That or its got a leaky output shaft seal or something.. Hooray new bike used bike ownership!
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Sep 19, 2011 16:30
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Saga posted:Mine came with a hidden scottoiler. Set to setting 4, which was dumping oil all over the rim! Turned it down to 1 and got out the chain wax. I might have to look into that solenoid thanks. I would prefer to change it preemptively rather than have it brake down on me. This one doesn't have a scottoiler on it.. that I can see! I got in contact with the PO this morning and he said he never cleaned it out in there, but he also never saw any oil consumption. I checked it today and its dry where I cleaned it, so I'll just keep an eye on it for now. Im not sure if there is a standard for battery tender plugs, the ones at the battery shop are different from the plugs on my cheap autozone battery tender. I also don't have a matching plug for the tender so I'll be replacing that entirely. Then I plan to have it set up so I can switch between the tender and a waterproof burnsmoto USB powerport for my phone so I can use GPS. I was thinking about setting up a relay to the ignition so its only in use when the bike is off, but I think that might be overkill for something I can just disconnect under the rear seat..
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Sep 19, 2011 17:39
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Determined my ballast resistor was hosed and just installed a Dyna-s instead. (Blog post) I read that article and being a newbie to electircal/mechanical work I had to google what a ballast resistor is and does on a bike. Now I get what it does, but it might be nice to include a couple sentences about what it does so n00bs like me can understand too. I've read your blog before though, I can't remember how/for what but I remember the background!
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Sep 19, 2011 17:44
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GanjamonII posted:I might have to look into that solenoid thanks. I would prefer to change it preemptively rather than have it brake down on me. Goddamnit my new bike DOES have some sort of oil leak. The area I cleaned off yesterday is wet again today. Its coming from somewhere covered by the frame and side panels/tank. When I get home I'll get in there to find it. The leak is reasonably small - nothing dripping on the ground, so I hope its something minor. Or at least cheap to fix. The PO says he knows nothing of it. edit2 - parts fiche says that there is a bunch of oil lines and some sort of junction up from where the leak appears to be from. Hopefully that is it as the stock clamps on the oil lines on these bikes are notoriously lovely and should be replaced with hose clamps. I'm a little annoyed at the shop I paid to do the prepurchase inspection, in retrospect I shouldn't have been such a muppet and looked it over more closely myself I probably could have caught it. Edit - on the plus side I haven't had any other starting issues and I still love the bike, though the front tire is a Dunlop D208 from 2007 and I felt it pushing a little on the one proper corner on the way into work today... GanjamonII fucked around with this message at 21:16 on Sep 20, 2011 |
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Sep 20, 2011 20:33
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Saga posted:Did they check the clearances for you? In which case misting all over everything with no drips is possibly valve cover gasket, and probably the front one which is harder to access. If they popped it off and damaged the gasket, that's how it would happen. Same story if the PO had the clearances done pre-sale. When I got it had a brand new Q2 on the back, so I'm putting a matching Q2 on the front. I have them on my SV and liked them well enough, plus they are drat cheap. Though given the rate these bikes are meant to eat tyres I'll bet I'll have plenty of opportunities to try out different brands..
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Sep 21, 2011 15:30
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Wired up a relay and burnsmoto USB power socket, and put on the arkon cell phone mount. Its switched by the license plate light, and uses an SAE connector which lets me switch between this and the battery tender at will. It all works without setting fire to anything too! Total cost around $60 for everything including mount and random wiring, connectors and heat shrink tubing. The socket itself is ziptied to one of the clip on mounts the previous owner installed. I want to find a more permanent solution to the mounting but I also don't want to cut any of the plastic or anything like that so need to play with it a little.
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Sep 23, 2011 03:41
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infraboy posted:I did about 166.2 miles on the zx6r before filling up.... I put about 4.480 gallons in the tank and I believe the tank is about 4.5 gallons :v My fuel light came on at 80 miles yesterday.
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Sep 23, 2011 15:21
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Tamir Lenk posted:Not sure which bike you have, but to get the valve cover off of my GS (DOHC), I need to remove all the bolts and have the carbs off. The only way to clear the cam chain sprockets is to lift it and pull it toward the back of the bike. On a suzuki savage I found I had to tilt and twist it to clear the cam chain sprocket and pull it out sideways. Also, check whether any of the bolts have to be removed/installed with the valve cover as some of them may not come out/go in otherwise.
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Sep 26, 2011 16:28
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Tamir Lenk posted:Changed out brake pads and at least one line. I botched the SS lines that I made, so I ordered some new brass bits to redo those. Had some OEM lines from the PO, so I put those on to replace the one really dodgy line. I also changed to speed bleeders on both brakes. Then I went to restore fluid and pressure. How do you get a spray of brake fluid???? On a related note I was cleaning gunk off under the bike.. with brake cleaner cause I couldn't find my degreaser. I was on all fours so I could see where I was shooting it and the spray hit a bolt with a concave head, which then redirected the spray right back.. into my right eye. I'm pretty sure poison control gets dumber calls than that, but I don't know, I felt pretty stupid. At least I can still see fine..
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Sep 26, 2011 18:28
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Tamir Lenk posted:The the bleeder tube slipped and fluid sprayed. v0v  I use a little hose clamp that came with the lovely little bleeder kit I bought. I threw out the rest of the kit - the 0.1 cent clamp was the most worthwhile part.
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Sep 26, 2011 19:48
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Is there any heated grips with an OEM looking switch with a mount that goes onto the handlebar? For a reasonable price? I live in Texas so it never really gets too cold, but I also only have summer type gloves.. gets cold around end of the year.. I get off the freeway early on the way to work so I can stop at some lights and put my hands on the engine to warm them a little..
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Oct 3, 2011 21:12
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Raven457 posted:hmmm.... maybe you could do heaters like I linked, but with a switch like this place sells? Oh that is very nice actually.. I might wait a few weeks for when it starts getting proper cold (for texas) but I've already got a relay etc wired up for the USB charger so this should just splice into that easily enough. Thanks!
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Oct 3, 2011 23:00
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If you're painting outside then wet the ground around your work area down to prevent dust from getting kicked up.. Apart from that, pray.
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Oct 13, 2011 20:50
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Saga posted:At least you can see something in your mirrors. Took a trip with my brother in law the other week which revealed that on a highway, you can't see anything in the old style round mirrors except the back of the bike. Maybe I need to break them and glue them back on? I was super impressed with the tuono mirrors actually. Its so nice having a bike with usable mirrors. You know, so you can see who you just passed.. on one wheel... I got 50 miles after the fuel light came on last weekend. I was in the hill country and forgot to fuel up and thought I had enough to the next town with gas. Turns out I was right, but pretty sure I was running off the dregs of the tank when I rolled in. 40mpg at 80 mph? Mine was definitely lower than that, somewhere around 35 over the 1000 mile trip I just did on it. Contribution to this thread - changed the oil today and washed the bike after last weekend. Changing oil on the Tuono is a little more involved than the average bike. I don't like cartridge filters and this one was no exception. I didn't read the instructions correctly so counting two runs to get supplies (27mm socket and then new hose clamps because I didn't have the right size on hand and could not figure out for the life of me how to reuse the stock 'clic' clip) it took me just over two hours. On the old bike was super simple - drain oil, replace filter, refill. This thing also involves disconnecting an oil hose, draining oil from two locations, removing the oil pickup shaft thingy and cleaning it out and then to check the oil level requires a 10 minute warm up ride as the oil needs to be checked at operating temp. However that was all worth it on the shakedown cruise. I know its largely mental but the bike felt loving awesome. I used motul 300v (holy poo poo $$$) and in future I'll need to figure out some cheaper alternative, but its neon green which is pretty funky. The oil had 2800 miles on it and the shifting wasn't as smooth as when I got the bike (with about 1000 miles on the oil) so I figured I may as well replace it, but when the oil came out it still looked like it had some life left in it (based on what I've seen come out of my cars in the past..)
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Oct 16, 2011 02:30
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n8r posted:Re: Rotax/Ape oil changes - I just change the filter and drain the oil, I don't mess with the other stuff. Somewhere I read that the other poo poo flat out doesn't matter. It's probably just some poo poo they say to do so a dealer can charge you $100 for a change. They also seem to like Rotella T 15/40 just fine. Most people don't like using synth in them for some reason as well - something to do w/ clutch issues. You can also get oil filters off jakewilson for $5/piece I believe. Yeah next time I'm not screwing with that other stuff, the oil pickup screen was perfectly clean, as was the magnetic filter drain bolt. I might do it every 3-4 changes just in case, now that I have the 27mm socket to do it. I run rotella in my wifes bike, I've done a bunch of reading about it and noone has any issues with it. I have to admit that the 300v was really just 'wanting the best for my baby', next time I'll probably do rotella or least something substantially cheaper than $15/L on it. This bike has been on fully synth 300v for the last 6500 miles, hasn't got any clutch issues whatsoever.
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Oct 17, 2011 20:10
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I still think a big round light would look badass on the Tuono, though probably better with clipons behind it rather than bars.. which would take away a lot of the fun of the bike.. Not a fan of the twin lights for some reason.
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Oct 20, 2011 20:27
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Ran seafoam through my wife's bike. The bike had been mostly sitting for the last couple months and wasn't running particularly nicely - Idle seemed weak, would randomly die even after it had warmed up and needed choke a lot more than it did before we parked it. Took some spare fuel line, stuck one end in a funnel which was the perfect diameter for a good seal and connected the other to the carb, filled with seafoam and ran the bike till it sucked up the seafoam and cut out. Let sit 20 minutes and then started it up and let it idle (wouldn't run at all with throttle for a while) until it burned through the seafoam and then took it for a short ride. It had been idling a little rough and the throttle response was jerky according to my wife.. now its got a nice solid idle and runs smoother. Impressive stuff.
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Oct 22, 2011 01:26
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Mcqueen posted:Today I finshed up removing most of what needs to be removed to fit the new parts. I can't see from the photo but if you need new exhaust cans let me know, I have the stock pieces which were either taken off by the dealer before the bike was delivered to the previous owner, or after the 600 mile service. I don't need them, if you do we can work something out.
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Oct 24, 2011 00:03
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 02:54 |
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Ordered new kickstand springs after they fell off on the freeway. I should probably check WHY they fell off when I get home today. That hadn't occurred to me until I wrote this post. This will be a test of how long it takes Aprilia spares to make it to me..
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Dec 13, 2011 22:32
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