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Changed the oil, found out that I won't be able to put in the Fumoto drain valve that I bought without dropping the headers, and it may not fit even then. Next up is wiring up the fuse block, power outlets, and seat+grip heaters, synching the throttle bodies while I have the tank raised to run wiring, and pulling the final drive to re-grease the driveshaft splines. I need a garage with electricity in it - only being able to work until sundown is bullshit.
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# ¿ May 13, 2009 02:32 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 06:14 |
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Can you not just add a fused link + switch directly off the battery to the voltmeter? At worst you'd be adding a "drain my battery slowly" button. You'd still be able to see if the charging system is working while the bike runs
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# ¿ Sep 23, 2016 01:22 |
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Wiped the bugs off the plastics and got it ready for Coydog to haul back to Atlanta for a better life of hooning and dank wheelies. Godspeed, young SMC, you glorious bastard.
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# ¿ Sep 25, 2016 14:33 |
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I can't tell if either you or the quoted poster are being sarcastic and I'm too lazy to scroll back for context, hope this doesn't come across as pedantic Transferring weight towards the front wheel helps ensure grip during turn in and settles the suspension. Sounds like clutchpuck focuses more on maintaining corner speed vs. gassing it on the straights and parking it in the corners
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# ¿ Sep 25, 2016 23:03 |
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I thought the SVNs came with bars, is that a conversion to naked?
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# ¿ Oct 4, 2016 02:02 |
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any chance something simple like a wire choke on the speedo pickup wire would fix that or do you think the crosstalk is occurring in the instrument cluster itself
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# ¿ Oct 12, 2016 03:50 |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZBu4mtALFo Naked chicks and howto videos
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# ¿ Oct 13, 2016 01:13 |
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Wrote a check for it, rode it home, and put a battery tender lead on it. Needs a new pair of tires soon. ('14 Multistrada S) Tomorrow it's taking pictures of the "old" ride and getting it, and the collection of farkles I have for it, sold. Anyone interested in an '08 FZ1 w/ 9K miles?
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# ¿ Oct 29, 2016 22:29 |
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Is the Tuono your road bike, or is it a track bike for you?
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# ¿ Oct 30, 2016 00:24 |
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Cursed, removed wheels, had new tires installed, reinstalled wheels Holy poo poo, the rear lug on my Multi was on tight. Factory torque spec is 170ft-lbs, but I couldn't get the damned thing to budge with a breaker bar. Snapped the half-inch drive for my electric impact the second I pulled the trigger. Actually had to get the air impact out and whack it a few times, then go at it with the breaker again.
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# ¿ Nov 4, 2016 05:15 |
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Razzled posted:uhhh did you mean NM? 170 ft lbs seems excessive yeah, I thought I misread at first too, but it's 230nm which is ~170 lb ft
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# ¿ Nov 4, 2016 18:38 |
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I need to get a decent lift like a Bursig or a better pair of stands - I actually managed to knock the pin on my front stand out of the bottom triple clamp when I was initially trying to break the rear lug loose. Glad I didn't do the front wheel first. Put a nice 2" scrape down the radiator, but that was all.
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# ¿ Nov 5, 2016 04:52 |
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gazed longingly at it in the garage after I got back from a flight from SFO. I missed weather in the 70s here while I was gone, and it's supposed to be rain/sleet/bullshit and highs in the 40s this weekend. I hate the midwest so loving much
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# ¿ Nov 19, 2016 02:44 |
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BlackLaser posted:Did the 600 mile oil change and went for a ride. Looks sharp - you going to ride these tires until they're toast or are you planning on putting TKC80s or some other knobbies on soon?
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# ¿ Nov 26, 2016 03:58 |
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ugh. When you say wouldn't start, did it turn over at all? The LiFePO4 battery I put in there has to be warmed up in the cold before it puts out full cranking amps - turn the key so the lights come on and turn on the grip heaters for a minute (you swapped to an LED headlight, right?) then hit the starter. Weather.com says it's almost 70F there today though so that shouldn't have been an issue. https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/articles/battery-articles/lifepo4-lithium-iron-powersport-batteries-cold-weather-performance.html Oddly enough that battery is in there because the factory Yuasa died in the middle of a road trip and I had to bump start that fucker twice by myself. The Yuasa was $50 more than the Shorai. Bike should start in N with the clutch out, not sure what happened there. It will start in gear with the clutch in but the sidestand has to be up. edit: also, see this SMJ thread: http://supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?102622-690-defeat-the-neutral-safety-switch Jazzzzz fucked around with this message at 23:14 on Nov 28, 2016 |
# ¿ Nov 28, 2016 22:51 |
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I may be mis-remembering re: starting in neutral with the clutch out. Try it with the sidestand up and see what you get edit: also, I wasn't "ugh"-ing because you yanked the clutch switch, I "ugh"d because I remember what a bitch trying to bump start that bike was. Twice in one day. Suuuuucked. Jazzzzz fucked around with this message at 21:07 on Dec 1, 2016 |
# ¿ Dec 1, 2016 21:02 |
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Pinny posted:
Not a bad start. Next version I agree w/ powdercoating black, might also want to try making it slightly thinner and having the cutouts follow the line the hanger takes from frame to exhaust and not parallel with the back edge of the hanger
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# ¿ Jan 12, 2017 16:25 |
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I had that dash replaced under warranty once for that issue already, it's loving BS that the replacement unit did the exact same thing. It's dust from the plastic rubbing inside the casing due to engine vibes. I had to have it replaced around 1200-1500 miles, everything but the tach was basically useless. edit: you have any KTM dealers near you? feed them the VIN and see if the mothership is willing to replace the cluster again given that it's been done once already and is still exhibiting the white dust issue. I wasn't under warranty when they replaced it, it was a good faith thing. Maybe they'll do the same again for you. Jazzzzz fucked around with this message at 00:54 on Jan 17, 2017 |
# ¿ Jan 17, 2017 00:35 |
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Changed the oil + filter and cleaned it up a bit so it's nice and shiny for the guy coming to see it tomorrow. Hopefully the FZ1 will have a new home soon! Pulled the Multi into the other garage so I have more room to work on it tomorrow when I go to put the new driving lights, rad guard, and crash bars on it.
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# ¿ Feb 26, 2017 00:08 |
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Sold it - goodbye, FZ1. I'm going to miss that bike. It was really tractable around town but still had the goods up top, and like the other two Yamahas I've owned, it never gave me a bit of trouble. The guy who bought it was 29, and brought his grandpa with him to pick it up today. Grandpa and I shot the poo poo about our mutual dislike of Harleys, how much he likes his Valkyrie, and his trip out west to Sturgis last summer which turned into an unplanned five-week-long moto camping trip through Montana, Wyoming, Idaho, and South Dakota. Dude was cool as hell. Then he mentioned he hoped his grandson didn't kill himself on the FZ1 because he speeds all the time and has wrecked every car he's ever owned but somehow hasn't wrecked a bike yet. edit: texted the new owner to make sure he got home in one piece. "yep - I like the bike, it rides nice. It will be a lot better when it's warmer out and I don't have to wear all this gear" WELP Jazzzzz fucked around with this message at 22:27 on Feb 26, 2017 |
# ¿ Feb 26, 2017 22:13 |
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hot sauce posted:But exhaust popping in decel is the best thing Someone straighten me out here, is exhaust popping indicative of a lean condition or is it unburnt fuel igniting when it hits a hot exhaust? I have heard both.
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# ¿ Mar 3, 2017 21:58 |
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:
that bike is too clean to be an apocalypse bike with knobbies and an ammo can storage box, riding a bunch of gravel should take care of that
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# ¿ Mar 5, 2017 19:38 |
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Pooper Trooper posted:Decided against plain vinyl tape, I'll go with a cloth tape such as this one I think. Much better looking and more heat resistant, and it seems much cleaner with less sticky residue and stuff. Can you get techflex around that harness, or does it have too many bulges?
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# ¿ Mar 10, 2017 22:18 |
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Schroeder91 posted:Changed my oil last night and spilled like a quart. The vstrom just ejects the oil with such force it ricochets out of the oil tub and all over the ground It was dark so I didn't notice at first and by the time I did the damage was done. Some kerosene and a brush seemed to clean it pretty well though. I really need one of those big metal things to put underneath when I do my oil. go buy a blitz plastic oil pan from your local auto parts store, and pick up some oil-dry while you're there. Cat litter works but not as well
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# ¿ Mar 12, 2017 21:50 |
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don't do that if your side stand bolts to the engine case, like certain fine ian motorcycles
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# ¿ Mar 15, 2017 23:08 |
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how old were those cush rubbers? good lord
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# ¿ Mar 19, 2017 01:18 |
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likely turned into turds that are hiding in your airbox or your seat foam, according to my prior experience with garage mice
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# ¿ Mar 20, 2017 00:41 |
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Pulled half the plastics off, installed a radiator guard and the mounts for my aux lights, ran wiring for said lights (half done). Remaining to do: finish wiring the lights + controller, get the FuzeBlock installed, install LED tail light with integrated brake flasher, install new windshield + GPS/accessory bracket behind it, mount phone cradle to it edit: gently caress, I forgot installing the bleeders + banjos at the ABS reservoir in the hopes I can finally get a rear brake worth a drat Jazzzzz fucked around with this message at 02:00 on Apr 3, 2017 |
# ¿ Apr 3, 2017 01:56 |
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Multistrada? bingo Slavvy posted:If my experiences with ABS equipped monsters of that era are any indication: you will never have a rear brake worth a drat. supposedly it's next to impossible to bleed the rear brake effectively because the ABS junction is the highest point in the circuit and it traps air. Some dudes on the Ducati forums installed bleeders at that junction, reverse bled the rear to get the air out, and said it fixed the lovely rear brake. I figured I'd give it a go. It can't get any worse. BTW Schroeder I have not forgotten about that wiring diagram I told you I'd try to draw up, but figured it might be easier to just take pictures of my setup when I'm done vs. putting together some lovely MSPaint thing Jazzzzz fucked around with this message at 06:04 on Apr 3, 2017 |
# ¿ Apr 3, 2017 06:02 |
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Finished the wiring for my aux lights, light controller, and FuzeBlock, installed the integrated LED tail light, reinstalled all the body work, got the lights aimed so they hopefully don't blind the poo poo out of oncoming traffic. Left on the to-do list: install crash bars, make Y-harness for LED tails so they work with the tail light, swap windscreen/install GPS mount + phone cradle + run power to it, install new banjos with speed bleeders in the ABS unit and vacuum/reverse bleed the rear brake up to said bleeders. Coydog, after wasting a weekend getting my lights set up, I was kicking myself for not just going with those Run-D lights. Running power and making a harness to get the VisionX lights hooked up to the light controller was a complete and total pain in the rear end because they use a separate dimming circuit. At least If I ever want to swap them to a "normal" set of LED aux lights I can re-use most of the harness I made. The VisionX lens covers do give a nice cutoff though, and they throw light WAY down the road on full blast. Fun note: my gas tank is swelling (plastic tank + ethanol = fat tank). Right now that just means the gas cap is sitting a little proud of the body work, but it apparently can cause a bunch of issues like broken tank shrouds if it swells far enough. Guess I get to call a couple of dealers to see if Ducati will warranty it, and find one that will coat the new tank's interior w/ that Caswell epoxy before they install it.
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# ¿ Apr 10, 2017 04:40 |
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What was wrong with the grips? BTW I found a spare of the switch that I used for those grips, it's from Parts Express - let me know if you want/need a part #
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# ¿ Apr 16, 2017 02:01 |
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what are grip donuts for, exactly? I never ran them on my SMC and it was the only thumper I've ever had. I usually only see those things on dirt bikes.
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# ¿ Apr 18, 2017 05:24 |
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If you're taking apart a USD fork you might as well replace the springs while you're in there
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# ¿ May 8, 2017 16:29 |
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Then it'll be even easier to replace the springs! Like Z3n said, if you're bottoming the forks just replacing fluid won't fix it unless there's no fluid in the fork now.
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# ¿ May 8, 2017 16:44 |
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Sagebrush posted:Still fooling around with different graphics modes...not all of them have to be optimized for data density and quick readability. Some could be purely ~aesthetic~ My initial reaction to this animation was that it would fit right in on an early-to-mid 80s faired bike like a 1st gen Katana or VF1000F, but maybe not a Hawk GT. On second thought, nope, it would be loving awesome. Would it be taking it too far to allow the end user to load a custom graphic or animation in a designated format and resolution to be displayed when the key's turned on?
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# ¿ May 21, 2017 08:30 |
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Plug looks leeeean
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# ¿ May 21, 2017 19:27 |
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"Well, the counter shaft needs to be replaced. gently caress it, I'll cover it in booger welds and let the next guy deal with it." -- the kind of person that deserves a raging case of crabs
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# ¿ May 22, 2017 00:19 |
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What are you planning for the suspension? Might want to do that upgrade before you add pegs and a pillion seat. Riding two up with a suspension that can't handle it is poo poo-tastic
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# ¿ May 23, 2017 05:16 |
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M42 posted:It's the morimoto 7" one on closeout. Cost $75, incidentally what I paid for the cyclops 3800 that was in there previously. Good stuff! Seems like great quality, very solid, dope light. Thanks for the heads up. Just snagged one.
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# ¿ Jun 5, 2017 03:30 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 06:14 |
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Nice, did you need the anti flicker harness? Anti-flicker harness is for Jeeps and other vehicles that are driving the lights with PWM to save power (there's PWM build into the Morimoto light already). You should be good to go on the bike
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# ¿ Jun 5, 2017 17:36 |