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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:
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Feb 17, 2012 18:36
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:I'm out of chain lube, any recommendations? I've been using a wax based lube and I like that it's drier, but the lubrication seems to be lacking. I have a shaft drive personally so I can't speak for it myself, but some guys I know swear by Chesterton 601 http://www.chesterton.com/ENU/Products/Pages/Product.aspx?ProductLine=TPD&Category=Greases+and+Lubricants&ModelID=601 Might be hard to find and pretty costly though.
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Mar 4, 2012 21:26
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Regular at 12? That surprises me. What kind of bike do you have if you don't mind? My Concours is 10.7 and recommends premium. Never even tried 87. Put a Kaoko throttle lock on the connie today. I had a throttlemiester on the ST and really missed not having something on the connie for the highway trips. I considered putting a real electronic cruise on it, but I've never had an issue with locks and I got a good deal on the Kaoko.
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Mar 5, 2012 01:22
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That's kind of interesting. I agree, if the manual calls for 87 I'd fill it with 87. Higher "just to be sure" is lost on me.
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Mar 5, 2012 02:06
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M4rg4r1ne posted:
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Mar 9, 2012 05:44
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I only say this because I'm a bearing geek. Please make bearings cool and fancy.
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Mar 9, 2012 06:10
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M4rg4r1ne posted:I read the description as "poly cage" and dug deeper just now to read that it stood for "polymer cage". Trying desperately not to talk about bearings and poo poo
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Mar 9, 2012 06:51
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M4rg4r1ne posted:That's the brand of b....spinny things that went on the ends of my crankshaft. Did you notice on the box where they were made? Used to be the small ball in North America call from Europe, but I've been seeing a lot more far east stuff. Not that it should make a difference in quality because the steel is still from Europe, but it is interesting the shift they're doing. Edit: To understand why I say it's interesting, SKF was the biggest shitter of far east products and quality control out there. At least until they starting doing it. 
slidebite fucked around with this message at 15:05 on Mar 9, 2012 |
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Mar 9, 2012 14:59
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Did the front pads on the old ST1100 today in prep for selling it. I have 35K KMs on it and I'm pretty sure they were original. Somewhat taken aback that the caliper bolts were quite different from the right side to the left side. I expected just a mirror image. Is that more normal than I imagine?
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Apr 2, 2012 01:02
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Oh I'm sure the bolts themselves are original, as the parts manual correctly identifies them. the right side were 2 standard bolts but the left were 2 hex sockets and the caliper bolts were even in different locations. I just expected the left and right calipers and hardware to be mirror images of each other.
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Apr 2, 2012 03:16
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Z3n posted:Weird, never seen that before. All of the ones I've seen have been matched pairs. Same here. Couple of pics just for interests sake: Right hand side, standard bolts and locations circled:  Left side. Socket heads and different spot. Bottom one was very small. Actually same size of socket head as the pad pin. 
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Apr 2, 2012 17:20
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Olde Weird Tip posted:If you look that small bottom bolt is actually a pivot for some sort of anti-dive system that is applied with the force of the caliper being pushed forward when you apply the brakes. Yeah, I actually did figure that  .I thought I might actually do the pads without taking if off but unfortunately the caliper only swung back only slightly before the hose slack ran out.. and would have hit the rim anyhow. So I had to take it right out. Same torque specs as all the other mounting bolts though.
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Apr 2, 2012 17:38
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Put a new windshield on the Connie. Out with the OEM clear and on with a virtually identical sized smoke.  I think it goes well with the blue. The shield had a big  ALERT on it that said to only tighten it to 3-5 inch/pounds. Considering my torque wrench started at 30, I used their rule of thumb which was bottle cap tightness.
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Apr 17, 2012 00:49
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Thanks. I think so too. I think they make an ST1300 version The new shield actually seems slightly thicker than the OEM. Not sure if that's a good thing or not... don't think it's bad though. Some people question the tint and riding at night, but even with the windshield fully extended up, my eye line is still above the top of it so I don't think it will effect that. Don't really see a downside other than not liking tint in general.
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Apr 17, 2012 16:46
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Yes. Good catch. A Mini Euro to be precise. Certainly isn't mini in size though. It's same size as OEM but I suppose most guys that buy aftermarket go with jumbo domes so in that sense it's kind of mini I guess.
slidebite fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Apr 18, 2012 |
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Apr 18, 2012 00:01
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:if you can remove and replace a bolt, you can swap bleeders. whoa WHOA BUDDY - SLOW DOWN
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May 10, 2012 05:11
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Good night sweet prince lovely thing is the long range forecast is actually pretty good, but I've got so much poo poo I need to get done before the snow flies I figure I'd better get this out of the way now so I don't procrastinate more
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Oct 8, 2012 02:14
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Got a bit of a spring itch and decided to do the motor and final drive oil on the 1400 Connie. For the engine oil, I went to Texas Tea Synthetic. I still shake my head at a bike that takes more oil than my god drat truck.  Was slightly concerned with the final drive. According the the shop manual, it takes 160ml or fill to the bottom of the threads on the check/fill hole. Well, drained the original oil out which was certainly OEM from when it was assembled (9000km and 3 years ago), and I find it hard to believe there was anywhere near 160ml.. maybe 100. Wish I measured it, but just drained it straight into the oil pan. Oh well. Filled it with fresh synthetic to the bottom of the threads and if I had to guess, probably too 400ml. Must have been darn near half the litre container. No idea how 160 is supposed to be even close  Good news though, took a better look at my tires and I think I can get another season safely out of the crap-o-matic Battle-ax BT021. Now I just have to decide if I want to or not.
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Jan 20, 2013 01:55
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I actually rode it today for the first time in 3 or so months! Come on spring! Put together my wheel stand which will make it simpler to take the front wheel off.      Managed to scratch my rear rim because the bead breaker I bought won't safely take a rim as wide as mine - it fit on the pads but as you push down on the breaker bar it pushed the rim into the bolts which hold it together    So I tried the C-clamp method to break the bead, but that 190/50ZR17 Battlax is a stubborn bitch and the clamps would actually begin to slide off as I got it close Screw it. I'm taking it to my local independent tire shop to do it. If there is a bright spot though, the rear wheel on the connie is super easy to take off. Probably would take me all of 10 minutes now even including a few hits of whatever beverage I am drinking at the time. slidebite fucked around with this message at 05:51 on Feb 4, 2013 |
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Feb 4, 2013 04:51
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Finished mounting the PR3 on the C14. While I had the wheels off, did some generic maintenance like putting a bit of moly on the shaft drive wheel splines, cleaned fork tubes, reset the pinch bolts when I tightened up the axle. Also, and more importantly, soldered in new batteries for the TPMS and it seems to work  Of course, it decided to snow today for the first time in 3 weeks, but the road was just wet so I still it out for a quick rip. slidebite fucked around with this message at 04:54 on Feb 10, 2013 |
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Feb 9, 2013 22:22
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Are they weatherproof?
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Feb 11, 2013 02:15
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First wash of 2013! 
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Feb 11, 2013 06:26
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Neighbor chick is about 19 years old and bought a brand new baby Ninja last year (all of 500KMs on it now). Someone told her it was bad to leave gas in it over winter so she parked it with virtually nothing in it and no other prep  Heard her trying to rev the bag off it in her driveway to get it to idle but to no avail so I went over to give her a bit of a hand. Bought some fuel cleaner put it in and took her on a ride for a while which luckily cleared it up after about 20 minutes of riding.
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Apr 2, 2013 02:21
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Slavvy posted:No comment. Hey! I'm sure I don't need to tell anyone here that there is no 19 year old Columbian hottie anywhere that could resist a smooth overweight 40 year old Canadian that is trying to be helpful.  Pepper spray would probably do it.
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Apr 2, 2013 04:56
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Sagebrush posted:Tsubaki. The box says CAMELLIA on it. It's the same one that KA performance sells for their slipper tensioner, but I found one for 20 dollars less ($30) and I'm using it with a regular tensioner. It is definitely much heavier-duty than the stock chain...the plates are much larger and beefier and the chain is physically heavier. (The exterior dimensions are the same obviously). Not sure if the additional weight will alter how freely the engine revs, but given what just happened to PAMB's VFR I'm happy to have the additional strength... Tsubaki is a high end Japanese chain manufacturer, one of the few that still makes their bread and butter stuff in Japan and not going to China. I sell tons of their industrial chain and only have good things to say about it. They are also a big OE supplier too.
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Apr 3, 2013 18:44
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Sagebrush posted:Put together an extremely long and complicated Fastenal order to replace nearly every bolt, nut, washer and screw on my engine with 18-8 stainless.
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Apr 4, 2013 05:13
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Fair enough, but be aware that 18-8 is pretty ambiguous and just because something is SS doesn't mean it's stronger/better. In fact, depending on what you actually get it might be more brittle.
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Apr 4, 2013 05:40
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M42 posted:Yesterday I grabbed a new front turn signal from a dude parting out his ninja, since mine wasn't working properly cause of that second day drop. I got connectors, hooked that poo poo up, and it was working perfectly. Yes!!! Could have been worse. I remember when I bought my Corbin smuggler and I was literally taking it out of its box on my workbench, admiring how well they did the paint.... when I pulled it out straight into a spare lawnmower blade I had stored on a shelf above it. A nice 2" long deep gash was the result.
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Apr 26, 2013 02:54
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It still works properly, it's just cracked.
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Washed it. Yeah. That's what I did.  
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Apr 29, 2013 01:48
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AncientTV posted:Suffice to say, some All Balls have been ordered. Jesus Christ, can you say paranoid rechecking of all chassis bearings. Just an FYI, All the "All Balls" bearings I have seen are cheaper than hell Chinese bearings. Only really nice thing about them is their website and their selection tool which makes it super easy if you don't have the originals out. Not that just because Chinese=Bad, but I'd still buy from the big boys (SKF, NTN, FAG, etc) for my personal stuff. slidebite fucked around with this message at 03:17 on May 2, 2013 |
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May 2, 2013 03:07
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^^ I was not aware of brake and clutch cylinders They still use the name but were purchased by Schaeffler a few years back so it may come to an end eventually, but I guess the FAG name has a positive enough image in Europe for them to keep it around for the time being. My old office used to have a great big sign that said "FAG DISTRIBUTOR" that we never put up. Also, I recall their sales rep had some custom license plate frame made... and couldn't figure out why nobody ever used them. 
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May 2, 2013 14:18
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clutchpuck posted:I thought this too; I guess I'll drop my wheels and check them before the trip next month... Meh, I wouldn't worry about it other than normal maintenance/checking. If they seem to fail on the early side just remember for next time
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May 3, 2013 03:10
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High Protein posted:That reminds me, before your trip it might pay off to check the belt tensioner bearing too. It's SKF part SKF6203-2RSH.
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May 3, 2013 17:16
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I saw one of those loving things cruising around town yesterday, dude (wearing sandals and shorts) gave me the wave. I remembered Yamaha made something like that once upon a time, but completely forgot what it was.
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May 10, 2013 01:48
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You want this
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May 10, 2013 02:02
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Slavvy posted:I've had the opportunity to briefly ride one of these and they are exactly what the appearance makes you think it'll be like.  loving awesome??!!
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May 10, 2013 04:16
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Mcqueen posted:Might have a non-horrible solution to my tank flexing problem. Totally spaced that I work next to a company that makes gaskets and sells other sealing products. Made quick friends with a dude over there and he gave my a couple scraps of Dupont Viton in 1/16" and 1/8". Chose the 1/8" and backed both sides with gas resistant sealant. Rode to work fine, but I'll start using Stabil or whatever helps neutralize ethanol. Aprilia North America is pretty
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May 11, 2013 04:58
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Well, not doing it today but I found out what I will be doing this weekend. C14 and ZX14s have a fairly common issue with either valve cover leaks and/or cam position sensor leaks. Shouldn't be overly difficult, just time consuming and a pain in the rear end because of it being so cramped. I'll drop the plastics and hope I can get my hands in there enough without pulling the rad or header. slidebite fucked around with this message at 19:37 on May 16, 2013 |
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May 16, 2013 19:34
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Snowdens Secret posted:For whatever reason I routinely mix up posters slidebite and clutchpuck, and at first glance at the oil puddle pic thought this was some sort of Buell jokepost That's kind of funny Even more funny, I discovered this when my buddy was over on his heritage softtail. He did not let that go unnoticed especially since I routine raz him about his farm equipment.
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May 17, 2013 05:17
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| # ¿ Apr 20, 2024 05:06 |
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So, this:slidebite posted:Well, not doing it today but I found out what I will be doing this weekend. Turns into this:   Notice how the entire top end of the motor is covered in a rubber sheet? Yeah. It is. The entire head is blanketed by it. End to end, one sheet. gently caress you rubber sheet. Completely blocks access to valve cover bolts.  I looked at the shop manual and checking the cam sensor seemed pretty straight forward so I'm thinking gently caress yeah, I'll do that. Even though it is still under warranty I'd rather learn to do it now so I have a rough idea what's ahead in 3 or so years when I check the valves. Well, sounds easy. Step 1 is something like "Remove fairings" Step 2: Remove rad. Might as well be Step 1: Remove motor. Step 2: Fix problem. Step 3: Reverse. Oh well, still glad I'm doing it. A way to learn on a modern bike. Still unsure until I get more off the front to narrow it down but if I had to bet I'd go with the exhaust cam sensor. Probably just loose and leaking past the o-ring. I'm optimistic I can just snug it down to proper torque. I might pull it, but Kawi doesn't list the o-ring size in the parts list so I'll have to size it up. It's almost certainly some hosed up fractional metric size which I'll have to order in so I have to debate whether to do that or not. See how I feel tomorrow. Stopped at about the halfway point as beverages are calling and I don't want to do this even slightly gunned. I'd probably gently caress up reinstalling my left subframe or something with my luck. (yes, I had to take out a piece of subframe). slidebite fucked around with this message at 06:36 on May 19, 2013 |
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May 19, 2013 01:26
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