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I have been looking for a project car for quite a while. At first, I was looking at VW bugs since they are mechanically simple to learn on. After remembering about this truck that has been sitting on my uncles farm for the last 30+ years, I went in a completely different direction. The truck is a 1953 Chevy 3600 (3/4 ton). It has been in my family since it was new. It was bought by my grandfather's dairy and was the mechanics truck. After the dairy burned down in 1969, the truck was hauled off to what is now my uncles farm. For most of it's time there, it sat inside a dirt floor barn. A few years ago, however, he dragged the truck out and put it the field under a tarp. Not surprisingly, all that time spent in storage has taken a toll on it. Rust has relentlessly attacked it. While it may not be Sockington levels of rust, I think it is pretty close. Here it is as I found it:   While it doesn't look too bad in those pics, horror is lurking.  My uncle decided to cut out the floor since it was ravaged with rust many years ago, and never got any further than that. When my dad was in high school he decided to take a crack at restoring the old beast. He got so far as to pull the spark plugs from the engine, and never put them back in again. So, I don't have too much faith in getting the current engine (216) running again.  While all this made me question if I should bother even attempting to fix the old beast, the price tag swayed me to yes. Price: $40 for towing it the 10 miles to my house. The truck was delivered on Sunday (22nd), so I will post the arrival pictures soon. The most mechanical automotive job I have done is change the spark plugs in my Taurus, so I will probably bump this thread up to ask a million dumb questions. EDIT: Pictures have been updated Mooecow fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Aug 14, 2011 |
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Mar 26, 2009 01:07
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This isn't going to be an easy project, especially if your skills with mechanic work only covers changing spark plugs. Best of luck with it however.
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Mar 26, 2009 01:09
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I'd definitely lean rat with a truck like this. Trying to get it "show" will be absolutely loving draining. Very cool, though I'm afraid this will be a much, much bigger project than you may expect.
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Mar 26, 2009 01:12
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Good news: There are lots of repop steel pieces made for that model. Bad news: You are going to have to replace them all. FYI dump the 216 and get a later 235, full oil pressure with real bearings. no splash oiling with poured babbit.
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Mar 26, 2009 01:13
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It neeeds more ZZ572/powerglide...
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Mar 26, 2009 01:35
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How about restoring the truck to do what it's meant to do, haul and tow heavy poo poo? Maybe with a diesel engine, like the Cummins 5.9 I-6 or the 6.2 Chevy (dirt cheap) Or maybe even an LS series? Like the LQ9 (serous suggestion, ohgodpleasedon'tprobate me Sigtrap)
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Mar 26, 2009 01:44
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Head on over to the HAMB and ask the old farts questions. I don't know if I would tackle that truck. It's a family truck, but drat if it ain't gonna be a ship of theseus when it's done. You've got hundreds of hours before that thing takes it's first rusty roll around the neighborhood. And the money, jesus the money.
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Mar 26, 2009 01:45
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Are you sure that is the 215? It is probably a 235, given that it was 3/4 ton. Most were sold with 235, from what I understand. If it is, consider yourself lucky. The 235 is probably one of the great engines of all time. I would be surprised, even with 20 years of rust and exposed cylinders, if you couldn't get it started with a bit of oil and gas. That engine was made, with only minor changes really, for 40 years! It is magical. That said: Everything else in that car is NOT magical. And looks to be a 10 year nightmare. Buy this fully running version for $2,000 and it will be cheaper just to move the parts over to your rusted-to-hell chassis if you feel the need. http://tinyurl.com/dc73ns
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Mar 26, 2009 01:51
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You're going to have to shitcan the entire differential assembly, it's an HO72 with either 4.56 or 5.13 gears in it, and everything in it is expensive, impossible to find, or both. In those days, 3/4 and 1-ton pickups would only go about 55-60 MPH flat out with the poor inline sixes screaming like banshees at that speed. A Dana 60 out of a 1970-1972 GMC 3/4 ton pickup is roughly the same width and you can get parts for it easily enough. You'll still have to weld on spring mounts, though, but that looks like it'll be the least of your worries.
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Mar 26, 2009 02:16
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Jonny 290 posted:I'd definitely lean rat with a truck like this. Trying to get it "show" will be absolutely loving draining. Very cool, though I'm afraid this will be a much, much bigger project than you may expect. I have no intention of creating a show truck out of this. I will be more than happy with a truck that runs and drives safely. Tai-Pan posted:Are you sure that is the 215? It is probably a 235, given that it was 3/4 ton. Most were sold with 235, from what I understand. It is definitely a 216. The giveaway is the acorn nuts on top of the valve cover. The 235s valve cover is smooth. The frame of the truck is solid with surprisingly little surface rust. The cab is definitely hosed, I am looking into getting a cab out of the Midwest. Besides the cab, the fenders are in decent shape, and can be hammered into shape and reused.
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Mar 26, 2009 02:20
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JnnyThndrs posted:You're going to have to shitcan the entire differential assembly QUICKCHANGE! And I wouldn't send him to the HAMB just yet.
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Mar 26, 2009 02:24
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My project is going on 4 years now, and it was in much much better shape than this. I've really enjoyed working on it, but this looks like a 5 year restoration to me.
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Mar 26, 2009 02:26
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Mooecow posted:It is definitely a 216. The giveaway is the acorn nuts on top of the valve cover. The 235s valve cover is smooth. Yup, you are right about the 216. You poor bastard. 90hp. Not to rain on the parade, but you are going to pay to drag a cab across country for a truck worth, literally, nothing? Part it out and buy yourself something you can at least drive while you work on it.
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Mar 26, 2009 02:27
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InterceptorV8 posted:QUICKCHANGE! I'm giggling at the thought of a polished magnesium Halibrand quicky sitting under the truck which is otherwise untouched, puffs of rusty dust drifting down onto the shiny differential.
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Mar 26, 2009 02:31
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I love how a 50 year old truck that's got no floor and has been rusting away in a field for 20 or so years still has yet to approach "Sockington levels of rust". Poor guy will forever be synonymous with rust. OP, good luck, that's one hell of a project truck you've got yourself.
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Mar 26, 2009 04:29
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Tai-Pan posted:Not to rain on the parade, but you are going to pay to drag a cab across country for a truck worth, literally, nothing? It has sentimental value, you can't put a price tag on that.
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Mar 26, 2009 04:37
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Maybe he should consider putting the bodywork on a newer chassis. If it were me, given that a full boat resto is impractical with this specimen, I'd find a totaled modern truck and park the cab and bed on top of that. The other way to go would be buy a modern truck and park the running gear under the frame. Will it be easy? No, but the only easy way to do that would be to turn it over to somebody knowledgable and hand them cubic yards of money.
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Mar 26, 2009 06:59
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Gnomad posted:Maybe he should consider putting the bodywork on a newer chassis. Why? They make complete frames with mustang II front ends already for this truck.
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Mar 26, 2009 07:06
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InterceptorV8 posted:Why? they just dont get it... there is no use fighting it. lol LSx lol... what about LOL olds 303, cad 331, buick 322 LOL now that looks like a fun project! even cooler that its a 5 window! as mentioned before, you'll have to get in contact with one of the many parts places, and make friends with your salesperson. at my shop we did a 54 gmc (very similar) and a 64 chevy truck - early classic, LMC truck, truck shop and chevy duty will be your best friends. i had a whole list of names of the guys and gals that hocked us parts.  i know its a crumby picture, but its the only one i could find. points to anyone besides interceptor who can tell me what would be special about the 6 cyl in this truck EDIT:  but im sure you fags would rather jerk off to the ferrari trucks are a fun and easy resto, id say easier than cars. as far as what i would do to this truck - id check out the frame, and if its not too bad, powdercoat it up, get all new suspension, rebuild a 6 cyl, leave the body as it is and put a new floor in it, bag it. LobsterboyX fucked around with this message at 08:22 on Mar 26, 2009 |
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Mar 26, 2009 08:19
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Defiantly buy that ebay truck, restoring that example you have is an impossibility unless you willing to dump in 20 years or 20K bucks.
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Mar 26, 2009 09:56
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Advent Horizon posted:It has sentimental value, you can't put a price tag on that. Secondly, it was a business truck that was not even driven by a family member. I would say that is a pretty tenuous connection at best.
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Mar 26, 2009 15:41
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Elephanthead posted:Defiantly buy that ebay truck, restoring that example you have is an impossibility unless you willing to dump in 20 years or 20K bucks. Do this. How long do you want this project to take and how much do you want to spend?
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Mar 26, 2009 15:56
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BEGONE TROLLS! OP, do you have a air compressor? Can you blow all the dirt off it? I'm thinking it isn't quite as bad as it looks.
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Mar 26, 2009 16:19
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LobsterboyX posted:
Speaking as the owner of a 1941 Chevy Special deluxe, I can say honestly say that I can jerk off equally to a vintage Ferrari and a vintage truck. Just not Mooecow's rust-mobile.
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Mar 26, 2009 16:44
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this is a great project! my dad and i have been working on old trucks for most of my life. we have a 47 3/4 ton GMC 5 window, a 49 GMC 1/2 with a newer 235(do the upgrade) an all original '50 Chevy with the 3 on the tree and 216 and a fully restored 52 Chevy. i live in Colorado and the dry climate keeps the rust monsters away, but we also have some great junk yards. if you need help finding stuff send me a PM. i usually head out to the yard several times a month during the summer
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Mar 26, 2009 17:35
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LobsterboyX posted:. points to anyone besides interceptor who can tell me what would be special about the 6 cyl in this truck
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Mar 26, 2009 21:16
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I have no expectation of this project being done quickly. If it takes years to complete, so be it. The truck has more sentimental value then what I stated in the OP. The truck was used to haul my grandfathers trailer to and from Fort Drum while he was drafted. He regularly drove it after the mechanic got a new truck. (Why the boss got the old truck and the mechanic got the new one I don't know) Every male relative I can think of has said "I'll restore it!" and promptly gotten nowhere, so, hell i'll give it a shot. What seals the deal is that it still has the original door art on the passenger side door.  Thanks for the reality checks, i'll definitely keep them in mind. Anyway, enough rambling, here are the pics when it got delivered.    O ya, I pulled off all the fenders and the bed and checked over the frame and it is solid. It seems that years of grease protected it. EDIT: Pictures have been updated Mooecow fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Aug 14, 2011 |
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Mar 26, 2009 23:45
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its really not that bad - not bad at all, get everything off the frame and start cleaning! it needs to be put back to how it was - nothing fancy.
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Mar 27, 2009 00:18
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LobsterboyX posted:but im sure you fags would rather jerk off to the ferrari gently caress that ferrari. What's up with the 65 coronet on the other side of the truck?
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Mar 27, 2009 00:23
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Im going to second what Lobsterboy said about the body, leave it as it is! People pay money these days to get patina like that and you have it for free, all that thing needs is a motor and suspension freshen-up with some nice steelies and its golden
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Mar 27, 2009 01:42
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Whatever you decide to do, you have to keep that door. But after seeing the most recent pics, I say go for it. It may take years, it may take decades, but do it.
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Mar 27, 2009 01:51
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It's a neat truck, as long as you don't have the expectation that it's going to be instant. Go for it. I have a 39 Plymouth that I am just now starting to work on, had it 5 years. I would start looking for a cab that isn't hacked and rusted to hell, get a trailer and go pick it up. Lots of cheap poo poo in the Dakota's still. But it looks like all the other sheetmetal ain't bad. It's fairly fixable, just alot of work and if you can score a nicer cab for 50 bucks + gas like I did, why wouldn't you? After seeing these new pictures gently caress yeah go for it. I use my truck as an excuse to collect lots of tools, and useless information. And to get some quality garage time. Sit behind the wheel on a crate and make vroom vroom sounds, it's worth it. Real men drive vehicles with 4 pedals.
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Mar 27, 2009 21:20
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I got some more work done on the beast. I removed the bed and most of the fenders. The drivers inner fender is still on, a couple of the bolts are refusing to give up.   I also poked around the engine a bit. Without the fenders, it is quite easy to work on.  The engine still has oil in it, although how much water mixed in is anyone's guess. I am going to drain the oil and drop the pan tomorrow and find out.Luckily, everything under the valve cover appears to be in good shape.  I also filled all the cylinders with Marvel Mystery Oil. I went through 2 32oz. bottles of the stuff. I'll give it a couple weeks to work its magic before I try to free up the engine. In the mean time, I get to learn how to rebuild the carb. EDIT: Pictures have been updated Mooecow fucked around with this message at 20:06 on Aug 14, 2011 |
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Mar 28, 2009 00:50
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Mooecow posted:The drivers inner fender is still on, a couple of the bolts are refusing to give up. PB Blaster and a hammer. Spritz the bolts and tap them with a hammer a few times, then let them sit a bit.
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Mar 28, 2009 01:12
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Advent Horizon posted:PB Blaster and a hammer. Spritz the bolts and tap them with a hammer a few times, then let them sit a bit. Yes, buy a couple of big cans of PB Blaster http://blasterchemical.com/display.cfm?p=50003&pid=4 or a couple of cans of Kroil http://www.kanolabs.com/ they will be a huge help when it comes to rusty bolts. Just give bolts a good soaking for a day or two before you try to remove them.
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Mar 28, 2009 18:22
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I'm interested to see if this stuff works: http://loctitefreezeandrelease.com/ I'm working with these guys for my capstone project at UConn, and someone mentioned this to me yesterday when I was prattling on about breaking a bolt off in the block of my caddy when I pulled my water pump years ago.
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Mar 28, 2009 19:52
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I got a bit more work done on the truck this week. On Wednesday I drained the oil/water combo. I then tried to add fresh oil. I added the 5 quarts of oil already, all while completely oblivious to the fact the engine was hemorrhaging oil from the push rod side of the engine. At first I thought that the block was cracked, so I pulled the push rod cover.  I didn't see any sign of any cracks, and the gasket was improperly installed and was crumbling. So changing that gasket is now on my massive to-do list. Hopefully that will fix that problem. After I got tired of getting covered in massive quantities of oil, I decided to work on the interior a bit. I pulled the the gauges and removed the rats nest that was the hacked together wiring (and literally a few dead mice).  Here is how the truck sits right now:  I should hopefully have my mig welder soon so I can start learning how the hell to weld. I am going to wait till next weekend before I take a breaker bar and try to free up the engine. I added the mystery oil a week ago Friday (27th), is two weeks long enough, or should I wait even longer? EDIT: Pictures have been updated Mooecow fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Aug 14, 2011 |
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Apr 5, 2009 23:59
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That truck is cool as hell. I wouldn't do a thing cosmetic to it. Just get the suspension, brakes, and engine safe to drive and enjoy it. Nice new wood in the bed would look good too. If you get bored when you are in your 40's do a resto then.
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Apr 6, 2009 01:05
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Bugdrvr posted:That truck is cool as hell. I wouldn't do a thing cosmetic to it. Just get the suspension, brakes, and engine safe to drive and enjoy it. Nice new wood in the bed would look good too. I agree. Just try to get it running before you do anything else.
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Apr 6, 2009 01:10
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Holy poo poo, that's absolutely awesome looking. I too would leave it absolutely the same cosmetically, save for (obviously) making the interior nice, and certainly clean up the engine bay. It's just too cool to change.
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Apr 6, 2009 01:51
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