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You may want to think about getting a different cab and bolting your doors or doorskins on it. You've got some difficult rust repair ahead. I don't mean to discourage you, you've done a lot more to that truck in the time you've had it than I've done to mine. Keep up the good work. And if you go at it the hard way, well more power to ya. Keep postin pictures.
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Apr 27, 2009 06:02
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The picture doesn't show them in enough detail, but drat if those bearings don't look almost new.
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Jun 24, 2009 13:57
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IOwnCalculus posted:I believe it. If I was working on a vehicle where an actual factory HEI wasn't an option, a Pertronix would've been my next choice. I was looking at HEI for the Scout, but it's $450! Taking the pickup to HEI was only $220. So the Scout is going Pertronix to get rid of that drat risky-rear end gold box.
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Aug 14, 2009 15:01
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Landshark posted:Inline engine and there is talk of being different? 6bt is a bit much, a 4bt would fit a lot easier and not be so hard on the poor old truck.
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Sep 28, 2009 13:39
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Most of what looks bad in there is really just carbon build-up. Nothing really to worry about. See if the rust can't be cleaned up with some bon-ami and a rough sponge. Thing is, I didn't see anything that said 0 PSI compression to me. Which shots are of cylinder 5?
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Dec 30, 2009 20:38
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You may also want to consider replacing the valve guides while it's apart.
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Dec 31, 2009 19:01
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Mooecow posted:
Something doesn't look right to me. Could be the angle or lighting, but it appears you are missing a valve guide here:  The two images you posted appear to be two different sets of cylinders, so we can see how it should look opposed to how it does look. Better look over that head carefully. I know when I pulled my 401 some of the guides were loose and fell out, others where basically welded in place.
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Jan 4, 2010 02:25
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Jebediah posted:Looks to be just an upside down shot of the same 2 to me.... the before shot looks badly gummed up, disguising it. They ain't the same. Look I'll rotate one of em. Look at the holes outside of the combustion chambers. The two in the bottom middle. One of them suddenly got a lot larger after lapping. Heh, kinda looks surprised.  
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Jan 4, 2010 05:00
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Jebediah posted:Ahh thanks How many holes did he have? You know pilonidal cysts are very painful, you really should be more careful.
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Jan 4, 2010 14:27
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My ex was always pissed off at me for missing one hole or another.
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Does this engine have hydraulic lifters?
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Jan 6, 2010 01:54
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Mooecow posted:Indeed it does. Would that play a role? From what I can tell, the only difference between those and solids is the lash. If a hydraulic lifter is collapsed, the intake valve will close early while the piston is still on the downward stroke (this is the suck stroke in the whole suck, squish, bang, blow deal). This creates vacuum in the cylinder, which hides compression when the piston comes back up on the squish stroke. It's very possible your lifters are collapsed and hiding compression. I've got a lifter in the Scout that likes to collapse overnight sometimes, creates the nastiest tick in the morning. That piston likes to show 90psi compression when all the others are reading more like 140-150, but it's a good cylinder. I've gotten 143psi out of it at times. Just depends on how that lifter wants to act.
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Jan 6, 2010 02:26
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The more you compress a lifter without oil pressure, the more you pump the oil out of it and thus collapse it. You changed the outcome by measuring it!
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Jan 6, 2010 21:56
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Almost any wear-related problem on a good carb can be repaired. First thing first tear down the carb carefully. Take lots of pictures, mark the pieces in baggies. Then clean everything. If the carb is good, a thorough cleaning, regasket and replacement of the float/needle assemble and perhaps the jets will be all it needs. If you can, get a brass float, they don't wear out like the nitrophyl jobbers. Use carb cleaner liberally. An old toothbrush, some cotton swaps and pipe cleaners will help. Be careful with the pipe cleaners though, they have metal cores that may scratch the small passages you wish to clean with them. One of the biggest causes of an old rebuilt carb running poorly is an air leak in the throttle plate base (aka the throttle body), and one of the most common ares for the leak to occur is in the throttle shaft. This is the shaft that runs through the carb's throttle body (the bottom piece of the carb) that controls the throttle plates. Over time the shaft wears the holes larger and they begin to leak air into the throttle body. This "unmetered" air causes the engine to run lean, and since the amount of air leaking continually changes as the shaft turns about doing it's job, it's impossible to tune for. If this is happening in your carb, you need to get a new throttle body, or repair the one you have. In many cases the throttle body can be drilled and new brass fittings for the shaft can be installed. I don't suggest this is something you do yourself, it's rather precision and all, but you've managed to do just about everything else by yourself.
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Jan 11, 2010 01:21
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sharkytm posted:I'd hit that nice new core with a thin coat of flat black paint. I'm surprised the rad shop didn't. I love the copper look, but it'll go green in a big hurry if you don't get some protective coating on there.
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Jan 21, 2010 02:18
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frozenphil posted:I left the "Finish your project within a decade" club about 4 or 5 years ago. I'd think you'd be able to clear coat it.
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Jan 21, 2010 16:11
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Mooecow posted:I come bearing good news and bad news. The good news, I seem to have the engine idling better than yesterday. I am about to pull it so I can paint it and put the foot starter bracket in place. The bad news, the carb leaks like crazy around the throttle shaft. So now I am definitely buying a new carb. This can be repaired in many cases. Do you know what make/model carb you have? Edit: Also it may just be the video, but I'd expect to see oil spraying about with the valvecover off like that. This thing got oil pressure? trouser chili fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Jan 22, 2010 |
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Jan 22, 2010 20:54
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I've found a bit of good info on that carb. Here's the Chevy manual for it: http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/booklets/5020mts00.htm Very helpful stuff in there about tuning and proper setup. Here's a quality reman unit. I think fairly highly of Holley when it comes to remans. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-64-7789/ The fuel inlet looks a bit different though, I'm certain that's a model B, but the upper float bowls almost looks turned on the throttle body from yours.
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Jan 25, 2010 17:09
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I love finding indentations, stampings and patterns in metal you never knew where there because of a layer of sludge. I'm very glad oil is so much better these days. I also love gear-drive valvetrains. You know what oil you plan on running in it? A lot of IH and motorcycle guys with shared-sump gearboxes like Rotella T because of it's ability to withstand shearing. Getting squeezed between those gears is a major cause of shearing, which will lower your viscosity.
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Feb 8, 2010 18:10
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The prongs look like they're for an external regulator. Very common in older cars. You could probably switch to a Delco 10si or 12si without too much trouble. The benefits are they are cheap and plentiful, as well as simpler and cleaner with only 1-wire configuration. Downsides is that they may not have that period look you're going for, and some of the higher voltage 10si and the 12si may output more than the wiring system in this old truck can handle. Of course, you are in a perfect situation to change out the wiring. Not sure what your plans are here. Despite all that I'm not sure your old alternator is shot, unless they hooked to those prongs and simulated an external regulator, the alternator may not be putting out it's full voltage simply because it's not being told to. This is the job of the external regulator.
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Feb 11, 2010 17:55
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ratbert90 posted:I wish my engine parts turned into an apple crisp Yeah, every time I bake my engine parts I end up with engine parts that still don't loving fit. loving $200 SFI harmonic balancer gently caress you.
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Feb 16, 2010 18:29
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Mooecow posted:Seeing as the truck didn't come with a tach, I want to add one at least when I am setting the idle and learning when to shift. I just want a small gauge that is somewhat accurate. Is this good enough or would I just be wasting my money? Since it won't be permanent, I am having time rationalizing spending a lot of money on it. That tach has been around for drat near fifty years. Suffice it to say it's pretty good. I run one on my Scout II. Mine was built in 1967, not that you can tell they're almost unchanged today.
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Feb 23, 2010 16:10
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Lead isn't flexible. I'd look at some of the fillers designed for urethane bumpers.
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Apr 5, 2010 02:27
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Mooecow posted:
I like to say it's been "naturally lightened".
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Apr 23, 2010 15:25
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Ishamael posted:I don't get people who like "patina". It's just rust and gunk. Nothing looks as nice as a shiny, well-maintained vehicle with a nice paint job. I like patina. There is a fuzzy line between patina and just plain "needs restoration". It's hard to nail down exactly when it's time to restore and when it's best to leave be, but I love good patina. The bumps, scrapes, dents, oxidations and wear marks are a testament of a vehicle's life as a tool of man. They tell a story, one that is unique and cannot be easily replicated. Anyone with either enough money, time and patience can have a perfectly restored antique vehicle, but an antique vehicle that's not been restored, that still runs and shows it's scars with pride. That's for me. Q-tippers hate me because I'd buy their diaper-rubbed baby and drive it every day and leave it out in the rain.
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Jun 18, 2010 13:06
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frozenphil posted:I think psychologists call this rationalization or something like that. I can completely understand why someone who digs Internationals has developed an affinity for 'patina". Haha, fair enough. I'd freely admit my pickup needs some restoration. The tailgate is terrible. It's not patina, it's just rot. The windshield frame is the same way. Something that's going to eat the vehicle and leave it worthless in short order, that's not patina. That's just rot.
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Jun 18, 2010 23:50
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Those are often called "west coast mirrors". I don't know why, and there doesn't seem to be an "east coast mirror", but there you are. Large barn-door sized mirrors rule. My pickup has them and I love them.
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Jun 23, 2010 00:16
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I've found that the wheel will move in relation to the other hard parts while turning based on the natural tendency of steel to bend under pressure, wheel bearing runout, loosening of balljoints over time, etc.... While it may be possible to shim so that it doesn't touch at full lock right now, you've got to imagine the forces at work once the truck is actually on the ground and moving plus the natural and otherwise imperceptible degradation of the components that place that wheel on the ground and support it through all of the forces it will experience in driving. Not sure what's going on here exactly - as to why it's so tight, but I'd look for a bit more clearance.
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Jul 8, 2010 18:15
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IOwnCalculus posted:Hagerty is awesome to work with - if I remember from when I first set up with them it's a matter of days, not weeks. Agreed, Hagerty is pretty good. They even towed my pickup when it broke down, and it's not even covered by them. Now the bad. The reason it's not covered by Hagerty? No towing, no hauling anything in the bed. Yeah, sorry my truck is still a truck. Got the Scout and the ITR under them though, and it's less for a whole year than six months of my regular policy with American Family.
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Jul 31, 2010 03:39
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I really love the "thriftmaster" script on the valve cover. Really strikes home the shift in attitude seen from truck buyers today.
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Aug 24, 2010 17:45
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Maker Of Shoes posted:1943 pennies were struck in steel and coated in zinc. A few were copper, however if you find one it's worthless because it's not struck on the proper metal for the year, you should send it to me and I'll dispose of it properly.
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Sep 29, 2010 19:26
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Maker Of Shoes posted:Riiiiiiiiiiight. 1943/1944 mis-strikes are worth a cool 6 figures. :P A 1943 Denver copper just went for 1.7 million.
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Sep 29, 2010 19:30
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The only thing I can suggest is to pull the cam and compare it to the old one. Something isn't adding up.
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Dec 13, 2010 16:54
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Mooecow posted:I think only the lights above the Ferndale sign on the barn give this picture away as not a period piece.
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Jul 12, 2011 15:18
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