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I'd drop the carrier bearing if necessary and take the yoke out of the bearing cap. Be not afraid of heat and hammers.
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Apr 25, 2009 04:17
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Wow. Looking good, man. Just imagine that truck all painted up nice and pretty, with the same logo all freshly painted on both doors. Then drive it over for your grandpa to see.
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Jun 24, 2009 06:33
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WT Wally posted:I would think there would be some sentimental value in restoring this one, though. If it were my family name on the side, I'd think I would want to restore it back in its original livery. Yeah, I was thinking the same. Save the survivor door because it's just too badass to paint over, get another one to live on the truck, and paint it just like it was new 56 years ago. That paint should work just fine. Caliper paint, engine paint, grill paint, all will do the job.
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Jun 24, 2009 22:41
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No, don't lower it. Keep it stock height, it's cooler that way. Everyone lowers poo poo, not many keep stuff stock anymore. But it's looking good. You're making me want to start on my old truck, I wish I had a place to tear the engine apart. Unsheltered backyards aren't ideal for such things.
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Jun 29, 2009 22:40
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Mooecow posted:As for lowering it vs. not lowering it. Why lower it? I dare say it will be quite fun towering over people in their little cars.  Great work so far. I'd clean up that hood ornament and either polish it or hit it with some modeler's chrome paint. It's just too badass to throw out.
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Jul 7, 2009 05:54
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 This thread makes me happy.
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Jul 13, 2009 04:23
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Ah, drum brakes are fine. He's not racing it. While the cab's off, you may as well replace the cab mount bushings, they're probably shot. And if that thing has a two piece drive shaft I'd pop a new carrier bearing in there, too. Are you keeping the battery in the floor or moving it up under the hood?
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Jul 18, 2009 16:59
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The regular stuff is fine. Just be careful bending and flaring it, it goes from "this is easy" to "gently caress I KINKED IT" in about seven nanoseconds.
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Jul 20, 2009 01:57
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Mooecow posted:I am trying to get the brake lines installed, but I think I just screwed up. Does this line look passable or did I kink it? TOLD YA!  You have to go slow, as you seem to have figured out already. The second ones are good. drat brake line benders- they're juuuuust good enough to give you dangerous levels of confidence.
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Jul 29, 2009 04:13
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Sponge! posted:Drums all around on a steep downgrade always makes me think about temperatures... It's fine. People have this idea that drums will overheat and fade after ten feet of light braking, and it's simply not the case. With normal driving, even up and down hills, the average driver won't notice a difference between discs and drums at all. Yes, in a racing application or holding back a heavy load down a long downgrade, it's an issue. But bopping around in an unloaded pickup he has plenty of brakes to be safe. Discs are better in general, but drums don't mean a firey death instead of a panic stop.
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Aug 2, 2009 08:09
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Mooecow posted:The rears, however, were a bit of complicated. The spreader bar for the parking brake was forcing the shoes out too far. This happened even what the bar was completely seated in the shoes. I couldn't think of a more elegant solution, so I took a cutoff wheel and make the indent in the spreader bar a bit larger on both sides. After a bit of the grease on the rears as well, they functioned properly. I'll betcha the problem on the rears is poo poo-rear end aftermarket shoes. They try to make one shoe fit as many as possible vehicles, so there has to be a few compromises, drum diameter and width is relatively standard, no one's going to use weird fractions of an inch, but things like distance between the ends of a spreader bar may be a bit odd. Therefore that one indent in the shoes can be a fudge factor. But what else is there anymore for that truck? Ya go with what you've got. Elegant segue: when you install points in the engine, lube the cam in the dizzy with a thin coat of grease and try to find points with the sponge on them. Good points are made of pure unobtanium these days, while lovely ones abound. Fifteen years ago, Carquest could get you passable ones. Don't know anymore, though. See, without the sponge and lube, the plastic cam follower part will wear down causing you to have to replace the points long before the contacts wear out. With a bit of lubrication though, the follower lasts much longer. I've found though, that once you get the hang of points, converting to electronic ignition isn't really worth the expense unless you're building a race engine. Tried it. That blue is wonderful. Keep it. Have I mentioned yet that this thread makes me happy?
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Aug 12, 2009 06:40
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Weird. I swapped my '66 F100 over to the Duraspark off an...'81 I believe, and didn't notice a lick of difference other than not having to adjust the points. I didn't have it dynoed, but the butt-dyno didn't tell me anything really, and I got the same 20mpg I did before. Then the Duraspark broke and I put the points dizzy back in. If the Pertronix works that well and is that cheap (the cheapest I'd found was about $200, but that was fifteen years ago to be fair), it may be worth a shot. But honestly, if this isn't a daily driver, I'd likely still leave the points in.
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Aug 14, 2009 01:30
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trouser chili posted:I was looking at HEI for the Scout, but it's $450! Taking the pickup to HEI was only $220. So the Scout is going Pertronix to get rid of that drat risky-rear end gold box. If those are anyhting like the risky-rear end Chrysler gold boxes from the '70s, you can dramatically increase their life by adding a chassis ground wire to them. You'd think the mounting screws would be good enough, but get a little rust and bye-bye. If they lose their ground they burn up. Run a wire from the chassis of the module directly to a good solid chassis ground, not just a sheet metal screw. Hell, it's cheap and worth a shot, right? It works on Mopars, it may work on your Scout. There's a decent chance it's nearly the same drat gold box.
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Aug 14, 2009 18:38
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That truck is going to kick so much rear end when it's done. Like Burbanzilla and the Froot Truck, it needs a name. For no particular reason, I suggest Kalinda.
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Sep 22, 2009 06:59
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I wouldn't want to cut the firewall. You certainly can, but you've done enough work keeping it looking original it'd be a shame to whack a big hole in the firewall. I was going to suggest a Ford 300 for a replacement, they're very good engines and extraordinarily common, but they're big. Smaller than a 6BT, but not by a lot, if I remember right. Worth looking into though, they're fantastic engines. If you can't find a 235 which frankly surprises me, why not overhaul the engine you have? It's cooler to run the more obscure stuff anyway. EvilDonald fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Oct 2, 2009 |
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Oct 2, 2009 18:55
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Very good color.
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Oct 6, 2009 02:13
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To haul the engine, I'd lay it on its side on something softer than cast iron. A sheet of plywood maybe, or a pallet. Look at that engine, it's nothing but a chunk of iron. Pull off the distributor and starter and fan and set it down. The seller says it runs well, or rather ran well three years ago. Who knows how it runs now? At the least it'll need a carb cleaning and a fuel pump. It's not the worst idea ever to pull the oil pan and have a poke around. I'd have that flywheel turned. An uneven flywheel can cause strange clutch behavior.
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Dec 10, 2009 00:38
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Mooecow posted:For the fuel pump, however, I am hopefully going to be able to use the old 216 pump. The 235's pump doesn't have vacuum connections whereas the 216 pump does. Given the wipers are vacuum powered, I kind of need that. They are stupidly simple, so hopefully with a good cleaning it should work just fine. Do you need the fuel pump connection for the wipers? I'd think you could take the vacuum off the intake manifold instead.
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Dec 10, 2009 22:53
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The clips have popped out of lifters. To me, this indicates lifter problems, they normally don't do that. Lifters are cheap, the cover's off, I'd just get 12 new ones.
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Dec 14, 2009 05:22
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Maybe you could make some of those wooden slats that run along the top of the bedsides like you used to see on old trucks, just a single piece of 2x8 running the whole length, painted or varnished, with "The finest in dairy products for your family" or sopmething similar painted on it. It'd really fit well with the look that truck is going to have. Sort of like these-
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Dec 16, 2009 16:07
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Those cylinders look perfectly fine. The head is filthy, I'd take it to a machine shop and have it rebuilt for unleaded fuel, that'll take care of any issues there. Meanwhile, flip that engine over, pull the oil pan and plastigage your bearings. It's cheap and you may as well find out what shape they're in. It's not a bad idea to replace your main seals while you're at it. The carbon deposits on the pistons can be removed with a wire wheel. That engine looks like it was running before it was removed and allowed to sit. A bit of cleaning up, a bit of paint to make it purdy, and you should be all set to go.
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Dec 31, 2009 01:56
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Kaptainballistik posted:... nong ... What a wonderfully Australian word. Is a nong similar to a bogan?
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Jan 1, 2010 17:40
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IOwnCalculus posted:If they're not pumped up properly / evenly, that could lead to weird valve adjustments where some may actually be too tight and opening the valve slightly. That's one of the reasons the easiest way to adjust valves on a pushrod engine is with it running. Is there another way? Set them all so the pushrod just doesn't move when you try to spin it, start the engine which will run like hell, and loosen each one until it taps then tighten it until it stops, and a quarter turn more. But Mooecow, don't worry about it. Your head is good, your cylinders are most likely good, so no problem. Boldly sail forth.
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Jan 6, 2010 06:29
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Having to choke it to start it is normal. Not to worry. When it's at operating temp you should just need a touch of throttle, if that.
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Jan 17, 2010 23:49
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You absolutely can get the clutch plate rebuilt. Check around, there's likely a semi-local shop that can do it, if not there are many online companies. Just google "clutch relining".
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Feb 1, 2010 04:15
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 07:30 |
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Probably external regulator, it should make about 14 volts at speed. If so I reccomend going to a single wire Delco, aftermarket regulators for those old engines are absolute garbage. Check it out though. You're trying to fix a heat riser?  Don't believe I've ever heard of that.
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Feb 11, 2010 08:34
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