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Mooecow posted:
Holy Jeebus gently caress! More holes than cheese comes to mind. I salute you for your efforts, and do truly enjoy watching the progress.
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Jul 13, 2009 04:24
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Bucephalus posted:Man, you are seriously kicking rear end on this thing. It's really looking good. Dog years I think.
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Jul 26, 2009 02:26
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Since you have a completely new brake system (everything has been rebuilt) have you considered using DOT4 silicone based fluid? It doesn't draw water like DOT3, so there's practically ZERO chance of it boiling. Its just not ABS compatible is all... Drums all around on a steep downgrade always makes me think about temperatures...
Sponge! fucked around with this message at 05:35 on Aug 2, 2009 |
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Aug 2, 2009 04:06
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EvilDonald posted:converting to electronic ignition isn't really worth the expense unless you're building a race engine. Tried it. Ermm... $70 is too much? http://www.carparts.com/PERTRONIX-B...p=10618-2005140
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Aug 12, 2009 08:24
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You did good on choice of compressor. Also, that's not cramped, that's productively cozy.
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Sep 7, 2009 01:45
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Mooecow posted:I don't know what I am going to do with the radio yet. I might just buy new knobs and buttons for it and install it. It won't work, but it would look nice. Otherwise I might just clean it up a bit and sell it on eBay. Radios even in awful shape seem to be selling for over $150, which isn't bad for 10 minutes worth of work. If you clean it up I think I can fix it for you. I'll do the same thing for you I'm doing for Pipkin. Parts and shipping cost and that's it.
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Nov 7, 2009 03:39
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Blaster of Justice posted:You're a loving hero! Seriously! I usually do tabletop and freestanding tube radio stuff, and have the master schematic collection for them. I'm putting out feelers with my connections to see if I know anyone who has automobile receiver schematics. Even without a schematic I can still do it, its just easier with.
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Nov 7, 2009 09:47
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Blaster of Justice posted:I'm pretty sure these idiots might be able to help you finding schematics: http://www.westernwireless.ca/ I'll contact them once I can positively ID the radio/chassis models. And you may think I'm insane, but I think sockington is insane with the rust he tackles. Nothing is beyond repair if you have the dedication to it. 
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Nov 7, 2009 12:12
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Totally fixable. The electronics end of it is in good shape. Its a real easy one because it is just a mono AM broadcast (medium wave for you non US folks) receiver.
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Nov 8, 2009 02:07
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If/when you shake the junk out of the inside of the radio in the back to clean it, sweep it into a baggie and save it in case there's anything important rolling around in there. Sometimes there is. I may need it. I promise only to put the important and necessary magic dirt back inside it. And unlike wiring harness smoke, Vacuum doesn't escape, per-se. More of a dilution I guess...
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Nov 8, 2009 04:19
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Some Guy From NY posted:Is that radio actually fixable as you guys claim? It looks like a rusted out hulk. It will have to be completely disassembled and cleaned up with tons of filler, that is if it doesn't turn to dust the moment you start to take it apart. In all seriousness its structurally sound. That's patina, not rust... It sat out in new england summers and winters, not exposed per-se, but ambient humidity. As to fix-ability, there's only a handful of parts inside there. Being AM only it is literally only marginally more complicated than a crystal radio.(RF Amplifier(maybe) Oscillator (455KHz), Mixer(Heterodyne), Detector, AF amplifier.) Hell the most complex bit is the push-button tuning, and that's mechanical not electrical. The only thing not "fixable" in it that needs outright replaced is the speaker. The paper cone biodegraded long ago. The good news is being a mobile DC set it is just a normal speaker, not one of the fancy ones where the field coil doubled as the filter choke on the power supply like you find in older AC freestanding sets...
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Nov 8, 2009 04:28
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The Anal Pirate posted:If I may derail for one moment, I would like to ask you about tube radios. I am looking at several table top units and would like to know more about getting one possibly fixed up? I am not sure if you are interested in helping a joe blow out but I would gladly pay parts and labor. I don't have PMs, could I e-mail you about this? I really want to be able to pick up ball games on the AM dial over one of these while sitting on my recliner in my reading room. Sending your mail to the mailbox of "goonmail" at the domain of kittenshateyou.com will get to me. Obfuscated to prevent harvesting...
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Nov 9, 2009 05:51
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:POWER I vote he tears it down. Not like he can paint in the winter.  VVVV You pansy! Sponge! fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Dec 9, 2009 |
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Dec 9, 2009 02:20
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Hypnolobster posted:Yep. Getting it resurfaced is pretty much a no brainer. See if they can balance it too while they're shaving it down.
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Dec 9, 2009 07:14
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Granite Octopus posted:
I too have vacuum powered wipers on the Jeep. Stomp on the gas, no wipers. Stopped at a light? Holy crap they're fast.
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Dec 10, 2009 22:27
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What kind of madness is this?
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Grumbletron 4000 posted:First post in the thread for me, chiming in to say that I love this project and have been following it from day one. He's got 3 doors. 2 are being fully repainted in the livery, the third is being hung on a wall as is.
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Dec 12, 2009 12:41
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Kaptainballistik posted:And I would attach a radiator because once its going you dont want to stop it! Amen! 
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Dec 14, 2009 06:35
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Helmet Jap posted:amazing project. I wasn's sure if you have your granpa's logo already, so I went ahead and did my best to replicate it. Just a little token of gratitude for the honorable work you are doing Could you have hosed it up any more than you did? Do you even see where and how you screwed up?
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Dec 14, 2009 06:36
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mewse posted:Goons can lack tact and you're on the receiving end of a classic artist vs. engineer miscommunication. I felt the effort was very kind of you even if it ends up not being exactly what's needed. Don't take it personally. I'm chipping in here to say that the effort is appreciated, but I got more enjoyment out of how oopsed up it was. Carry on!
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Dec 14, 2009 21:48
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Helmet Jap posted:Here ya go! posting with confidence this time. available in huge size as well (if you wanna use it to make decals or trace over it or something..) Paging Kitsch!...
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Dec 15, 2009 05:26
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LobsterboyX posted:wowie! You'd be the 4th goon having me restore their tube stuff...
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Dec 23, 2009 06:23
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Slung Blade posted:End of 2009 or 2010? That huge fan on the front will propel it!
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Dec 29, 2009 06:58
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Mooecow posted:To make sure all the chemicals are fully flushed out the of head, would it be a good idea to spray water throughout all the passages? That followed by a heat gun to dry everything seems like it would work, but then again im learning as I go along here. Water, then Denatured Alcohol. You're set!
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Jan 3, 2010 00:49
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Pipkin posted:You are SO lucky. I haven't looked at the truck yet but varnish has been my worst enemy so far getting some of the old machinery running. Works toilet bowl cleaner dissolves pretty much anything left by gas...
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Jan 20, 2010 08:45
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Pipkin posted:So I have that and oven cleaner to try. I can't imagine those products working better than aircraft stripper but I'm willing to try anything, pretty much. Works is mostly hydrochloric acid... Not to be used on Aluminum for obvious reasons...
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Jan 20, 2010 18:36
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revmoo posted:What if you hit it with clearcoat instead of paint? I'd worry about heat transfer efficiency at that point. A black body radiates heat better.
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Jan 21, 2010 15:50
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Sounds better than the L head 6 in my jeep. Which may or may not have a stuck exhaust valve in one cylinder...
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Jan 21, 2010 23:07
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You running lead substitute in the fuel, or did I miss where the PO of the engine rebuilt it for unleaded fuels?
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Jan 22, 2010 20:36
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Blaster of Justice posted:I was going to suggest a carburetor rebuild, but gently caress that thing. Throw a "modern" Weber on that engine and you're golden. Pfft, I'm throwing in my vote for a Carter YF.
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Jan 23, 2010 15:28
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Slung Blade posted:It's a magic engine. L and F heads are truly magic. 
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Feb 16, 2010 20:39
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frozenphil posted:Good luck with the cancer you're going to get from baking engine parts in the same oven you use to bake food. FYI, that manifold is going to keep being chalky after you paint it unless you wait for the air to dry out. You really need the humidity to be under 50% for spray paint to work right. Cancer schmancer... Most of us are up to our shoulders in hydrocarbons and solvents on a weekly basis. What's a little extra hydrocarbon content in our carbohydrates? I hear babyhitler uses carbon-tet as a skin cream. 
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Feb 16, 2010 20:41
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HUZZAH!!! 
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Mar 1, 2010 01:21
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Mooecow posted:
Once you get the real seats in it'll be easier on you. I know firsthand about driving with the wrong seating and a mechanically linked long throw clutch... Learning stick in that lawn chair would, indeed, be difficult.
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Mar 9, 2010 01:16
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jizzsock posted:Buff? You mean a few handiwipes will take care of it. Spitshine. We all know sockington's spit is like naval jelly...
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Mar 28, 2010 06:15
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Get yourself some cans of lab-metal. Its like JB-weld but designed for filling/smoothing... poo poo never chips off...
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Apr 5, 2010 02:33
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Mooecow posted:Overall I don't think it came out too bad. The fabric isn't perfectly tight in some areas so there are a few wavy areas. The truck isn't a show queen so I am perfectly happy with it. I have  says your rear end isn't perfectly tight either. Match made in heaven! I haven't even contemplated upholstry on the Jeep yet. I'll be happy to have all the glass in and keep the drat wasps out this summer...Keep up the good work. You inspire us all.
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Jun 6, 2010 03:16
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trouser chili posted:Those are often called "west coast mirrors". I don't know why, and there doesn't seem to be an "east coast mirror", but there you are. East coast mirror is an extended middle finger shoved out the window...
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Jun 23, 2010 03:58
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As a fellow 1955 3-speed driver, I shall warn you this. When slowing down to a stop, do not attempt to downshift into first while rolling along. It is not synchroed and you will grind the gently caress out of it. Downshifting at speed from 3rd to 2nd is doable, but if you want to go from 2nd to 1st you have to rev match and double clutch or you'll hear the gnashing of gears.... Reverse is also not synchronized. Otherwise just drive the living snot out of it and have fun! I look forward to more work on the logging truck (jeep) this fall, but funds are nonexistent so I don't' know what I'm going to do to it... That is to say leave it IN 2nd gear till you come to a complete stop via the brakes with the clutch IN, then shift into first when you're stopped. Don't clutch and put it into first while you're slowing down, the shafts are still spinning. Leaving it in 2nd gear with your foot on the clutch brings everything to a stop with the wheels. Three on the tree is easier than 3 on the floor. Pure muscle habit thinks left and forward is 1st, when its actually reverse... Also don't sweat the transmission much, they're piss easy to rebuild yourself over a weekend, its about $200-250 in parts, and some beer. Sponge! fucked around with this message at 12:25 on Sep 30, 2010 |
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Sep 30, 2010 12:20
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LobsterboyX posted:first off, what the hell is that huge pipe wrench... please tell me thats your shifter, secondly, did you time that last photo to include the hood of your truck, the awesome mailbox post AND the 58 chevy coming the other way? amazing. Oh god yes please tell me that's your gearshift...  Edit: I have that mailbox post beaten, just have to go photograph the damned thing.
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Nov 22, 2010 20:37
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Mooecow posted:
This!   
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Nov 25, 2010 09:40
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