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Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...


McTinkerson posted:

I'm neck deep in a Tamiya TT-02 Safari 911 build. Can confirm that the kits are so good and fun, you don't care that it's all plastic.

This will be the first one I build with lights. Where and how do I mount the LEDs in the lexan?

I just finished a TT02! Only upgrade so far is ball bearings. Better shocks are on the shortlist but I think a new radio is gonna be the next big purchase. Gonna get something with model memory so I can just start buying extra receivers instead of moving mine around from car to car.

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Somewhat Heroic
Oct 11, 2007

(Insert Mad Max related text)

Snowmankilla posted:

Yeah. I need to decide if I
A) want a 1/10 crawler (then for sure a kit like Axiel/RC4WD/Element rc)
B) want a small crawler (probably a Scx 24)
Or C) build that Tamiya Lunchbox Mini kit.

I like the building as much as running, but I donít have a crawler or anything small. I will probably eventually get at least A or B and C.

And you guys are right about the kits seeming cheaper. I have found the kit for the Lunchbox Mini like $81, but by the time I add all the esc/receiver/bearings/battery/servo I am at around 200. And thatís with cheap stuff. But the same thing would happen if I bought a $300 crawler kit, correct? I would end up closer to 400 probably.

Would a Hobbywing QuicRun 1060 work for a mini lunchbox if I go that direction?

Also that Jurassic Park Jeep is loving amazing.

Thanks for all the help. This is a super fun hobby, it just jumps up in difficulty quickly from ďdonít mistreat liposĒ to ďwhat amperage do I need in a escĒ.

A small crawler (SCX24) is the kind of thing you buy when you already have a bigger one. There is literally no space too big for a crawler. If you are using the stock "silver can" Tamiya motor that Hobbywing speed controller should work just fine. Crawlers do end up a little more than a lunchbox. They are both cool for different reasons. Honestly a crawler sounds like the best match for you.

I am pretty happy with how that Jurassic body turned out. My most detailed paint job I have ever done. It was all done with rattle can spray pain too! I posted about it previously

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

I just finished a TT02! Only upgrade so far is ball bearings. Better shocks are on the shortlist but I think a new radio is gonna be the next big purchase. Gonna get something with model memory so I can just start buying extra receivers instead of moving mine around from car to car.


Looking sweet. My neighbor just finished his Tamiya XV01 rally and it is making my loins burn for a rally car. I am pretty sure the next thing I build will have to be a Sand Scorcher though.


Somewhat Heroic fucked around with this message at 16:59 on May 22, 2020

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008



Grimey Drawer

e: nvm, old news

Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...


Somewhat Heroic posted:

A small crawler (SCX24) is the kind of thing you buy when you already have a bigger one. There is literally no space too big for a crawler. If you are using the stock "silver can" Tamiya motor that Hobbywing speed controller should work just fine. Crawlers do end up a little more than a lunchbox. They are both cool for different reasons. Honestly a crawler sounds like the best match for you.

I am pretty happy with how that Jurassic body turned out. My most detailed paint job I have ever done. It was all done with rattle can spray pain too! I posted about it previously

Looking sweet. My neighbor just finished his Tamiya XV01 rally and it is making my loins burn for a rally car. I am pretty sure the next thing I build will have to be a Sand Scorcher though.

Man, the Sand Scorcher just looks fun. I bet it'll do wheelies with a nice brushless setup.

McTinkerson
Jul 5, 2007

Dreaming of Shock Diamonds

Boaz MacPhereson posted:

Man, the Sand Scorcher just looks fun. I bet it'll do wheelies with a nice brushless setup.

The rereleased LunchBox will pull a wheelie forever from a stop if you floor it. It even comes with a wheelie bar.

an AOL chatroom
Oct 3, 2002

The important thing is that you tried


McTinkerson posted:

The rereleased LunchBox will pull a wheelie forever from a stop if you floor it. It even comes with a wheelie bar.

Can confirm the Lunchbox is fun as hell with a modern ESC and lipo battery.

Bruxism
Apr 29, 2009

Absolutely not anxious about anything.


Clapping Larry

Somewhat Heroic posted:

  • Tamiya which produce great scale licensed bodies or weird quirky stuff.
  • Axial, which is all crawler stuff and the "standard" for excellent performance/scale.
  • RC4WD has a few kits. REALLY cool and scale stuff, not great performance but it gives you the "little engine that could" feeling when you drive them.
  • Element RC - new scale crawler brand by Team Associated. They just announced an RTR "TrailRunner" (4Runner) IFS/rear solid axle which means in three weeks the kit will be announced.
  • Obscure brands like MST, CrossRC(no) GMade(DEF NO). Kind of good, parts are more difficult to source, mixed performance.
  • Traxxas. Eh. It is traxxas
  • Some cool drifters are available in kits.
  • Top of the line race kits. Unless you are racing I wouldn't get one because they are pretty useless outside of the track.



IMGUR VIDEO LINK ~10 seconds long

I've been thinking RC cars would be a fun hobby to get into with my son and after doing some research found this thread. That Jurassic Park jeep you built with your kiddo is awesome and exactly the kind of thing I had in mind. In your previous post you mentioned that it is a Vanquish Origin. A quick google search makes it look like it is a pretty expensive kit, unless I am looking at the wrong thing. What would be a decent kit to get us started to eventually work up to something like you guys built? I don't mind spending a little more, but don't want to drop tons of money on something we are trying out for the first time. Also, how technical is the build? Does it require pretty advanced techniques and tools or just the ability to follow directions? Thanks for this list, it's a good start!

Kibner
Oct 21, 2008



Grimey Drawer

It's been a couple decades since I've been able to build a kit, but I think the only tools you need when building are screwdrivers. Maybe some pliers or wrench to hold something while you fiddle with it.

If you need to change connectors for electronics, then you may need a soldering iron.

I believe instructions for kits are step-by-step while the instructions for ready to run vehicles are more like part assembly blowouts with little instruction or guidance.

E: tbh, painting the body is more difficult and requires more techniques and possibly tools.

e2: v derp, i completely forgot about allen drivers and socket wrenches

Kibner fucked around with this message at 13:59 on Jun 1, 2020

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003



You'll get a cross tool for the unusual nut sizes, and sometimes a lovely hex driver with your kit. Get good drivers (I like wera and wiha drivers with handles, MIP if you just want the bits to use with a *clutched* power tool).
Any moron can put a kit together TBH, do check the "materials needed" in the manual as that'll tell you what consumables you need (shock oil, grease, etc).
And if you're planning on building with a kid do watch a YT vid or two beforehand just to see if they run into anything stupid and blocking.

evil_bunnY fucked around with this message at 13:48 on Jun 1, 2020

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Granted I've pretty much only built Associated kits, with the combination of being built for racing with questionable tolerances, but I would also strongly recommend a good pair of snips and a small file to remove the inevitable bits of flashing.

Somewhat Heroic
Oct 11, 2007

(Insert Mad Max related text)

Bruxism posted:

I've been thinking RC cars would be a fun hobby to get into with my son and after doing some research found this thread. That Jurassic Park jeep you built with your kiddo is awesome and exactly the kind of thing I had in mind. In your previous post you mentioned that it is a Vanquish Origin. A quick google search makes it look like it is a pretty expensive kit, unless I am looking at the wrong thing. What would be a decent kit to get us started to eventually work up to something like you guys built? I don't mind spending a little more, but don't want to drop tons of money on something we are trying out for the first time. Also, how technical is the build? Does it require pretty advanced techniques and tools or just the ability to follow directions? Thanks for this list, it's a good start!

The Origin is certainly not the level of kit anyone needs. I work in-industry and I am also a broke brained individual that usually goes for what excites me and the Origin definitely excites.

You cannot go wrong at all with the Axial kits. The new SCX10III is a great place to start building. They are extremely nice out of the box, and super popular right now so they are back ordered many places. Element RC has their Enduro which is cool and has been met with mixed reviews but it does have some neat features. The Traxxas sport builders kit thing is hard to deny that is a very well put together machine that does essentially anything you want it to. For me it lacks a little soul and again - that is because I have been doing this for too long and have industry bias. Any of these kits would perform every bit as well as the Origin and will be a great experience for you and your kiddo. Building kits these days compared to a days past is a completely different experience. Things are so much easier, the manuals are laid out easy to follow. Open bag A for metal hardware bits. Cut off parts XYZ off of this parts tree. Assemble. Actual size drawings on the manual so you can lay the parts on the page to make sure that you are using the right screws and all, plus YouTube is available for anything else.

Tools you will want, some nice hex tools. There are budget machined hex tools you can get for ~$30-40. Otherwise just normal stuff like #1 and #2 phillips, some needle nose pliers. Other specialty tools that are nice to have would be shock shaft pliers ($12 or something).

Painting is the more tricky side of painting, but if you take time, and keep it simple then you can come up with a pretty good. On YouTube Chris of Hemistorm makes it look easy. The guys at Scale Builders Guild also make fabrication seem easy (it isn't) but you can get a ton of ideas there.

Pick something up and let us know how you get on!

powderific
May 13, 2004



Grimey Drawer

100% get JIS screwdrivers if you get anything Tamiya. I have this one and as a bonus I think it's actually nicer to use in normal phillips screws too: https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-D-332-...523&s=hi&sr=1-4

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003



I totally understand why someone wouldn't want a traxxas kit TBH. The reason I own a TRX-4 is the defender body. The plastics and engineering is generally very good, but they do lack in the "soul" dept.

Snowmankilla
Dec 6, 2000

True, true



This is a great conversation. I am taking your advice and getting a 1/10 crawler for my first instead of a 1/24. I am just trying to go cheaper with out being lovely. Is there a good crawler that is amazing at crawling, but not scale? It seems like looking scale is a huge part of crawling, but I donít care either way?

Snowmankilla fucked around with this message at 02:22 on Jun 2, 2020

Bruxism
Apr 29, 2009

Absolutely not anxious about anything.


Clapping Larry

Somewhat Heroic posted:

The Origin is certainly not the level of kit anyone needs. I work in-industry and I am also a broke brained individual that usually goes for what excites me and the Origin definitely excites.

You cannot go wrong at all with the Axial kits. The new SCX10III is a great place to start building. They are extremely nice out of the box, and super popular right now so they are back ordered many places. Element RC has their Enduro which is cool and has been met with mixed reviews but it does have some neat features. The Traxxas sport builders kit thing is hard to deny that is a very well put together machine that does essentially anything you want it to. For me it lacks a little soul and again - that is because I have been doing this for too long and have industry bias. Any of these kits would perform every bit as well as the Origin and will be a great experience for you and your kiddo. Building kits these days compared to a days past is a completely different experience. Things are so much easier, the manuals are laid out easy to follow. Open bag A for metal hardware bits. Cut off parts XYZ off of this parts tree. Assemble. Actual size drawings on the manual so you can lay the parts on the page to make sure that you are using the right screws and all, plus YouTube is available for anything else.

Tools you will want, some nice hex tools. There are budget machined hex tools you can get for ~$30-40. Otherwise just normal stuff like #1 and #2 phillips, some needle nose pliers. Other specialty tools that are nice to have would be shock shaft pliers ($12 or something).

Painting is the more tricky side of painting, but if you take time, and keep it simple then you can come up with a pretty good. On YouTube Chris of Hemistorm makes it look easy. The guys at Scale Builders Guild also make fabrication seem easy (it isn't) but you can get a ton of ideas there.

Pick something up and let us know how you get on!

This is great! Thanks for the others that chimed in on tool suggestions as well. The SCX10III looks spot on. I'm deployed away from the family for a bit so I'll take some time researching and ordering everything to my house and aim to build this around my kiddo's 5th birthday. I doubt he will remain focused long while I assemble everything but he can still consult. One thing I noticed looking at the instructions for that kit is that it says I would need to get "a 4-Channel radio system with one (1) Servo, two (2) Micro servo and one (1) Electronic Speed controller to operate all features." Are those parts pretty standard and will fit any kit? Also the battery "Recommended Battery:Standard 6-cell NiMH or Standard 2S LiPo" are all batteries pretty much created equal?

Somewhat Heroic
Oct 11, 2007

(Insert Mad Max related text)

Bruxism posted:

This is great! Thanks for the others that chimed in on tool suggestions as well. The SCX10III looks spot on. I'm deployed away from the family for a bit so I'll take some time researching and ordering everything to my house and aim to build this around my kiddo's 5th birthday. I doubt he will remain focused long while I assemble everything but he can still consult. One thing I noticed looking at the instructions for that kit is that it says I would need to get "a 4-Channel radio system with one (1) Servo, two (2) Micro servo and one (1) Electronic Speed controller to operate all features." Are those parts pretty standard and will fit any kit? Also the battery "Recommended Battery:Standard 6-cell NiMH or Standard 2S LiPo" are all batteries pretty much created equal?

Generally speaking, steering servos and electronic speed controllers are universal/standard fit items. The micro servos that are OPTIONAL setup for the 10III need to be a specific size/strength. I think there are some Spektrum brand ones that Axial lists (keeping it in the "family") but there are some Savox units that are nice compact and strong. The micro servos are optional if you want to use the two speed setup (you can shift from high or low speed) and/or use a dig function.

micro servos are optional and you can use the model without these. You would not have a dig function or two speeds is all.

If you are unfamiliar with what a dig does, it basically locks the back tires from spinning and disconnects the rear driveline from the transmission so only the front tires are spinning. For triple locked models it helps get around tight corners and is a neat party trick to hit "sick lines". I have never used it myself.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J9K0ud_BiG8

The reason it discusses radios that have multiple channels is that you need a channel for each function. Steering is one function, throttle/brake is a second function. A two speed would be an additional function, the dig would be another so up to four channels can be used for the full functionality. Spektrum offers some pretty reasonably priced radio systems that have the transmitter and receiver. The DX5C is only $155. They have a new "Rugged" model that is kind of weather proof and more durable. It is a 5 channel, but receiver is not included. I am considering one of these for my son eventually since the OOOLD DX2S he has been using is getting real long in tooth. Good for one handed driving (so you can take videos with your phone/other hand - I am not kidding) and also a good idea if you have a little kid and you are worried about your radio getting dropped. Futaba is another brand, the one I use personally. The 4PM would be a four channel radio, it runs about $250. Futaba has a 3 channel option for under $150 (3PV) that would get you either the dig function OR the two speed function but not both.

For batteries get LiPo. They are just so much better. Use them appropriately, take proper precautions. Some people are okay with cheaper packs. I find that the GensAce batteries (which are the OEM supplier for nearly everyone that doesn't suck) are a great value and perform very well. A 5000mah battery will go for hours in a crawler on a single charge.

Snowmankilla posted:

This is a great conversation. I am taking your advice and getting a 1/10 crawler for my first instead of a 1/24. I am just trying to go cheaper with out being lovely. Is there a good crawler that is amazing at crawling, but not scale? It seems like looking scale is a huge part of crawling, but I don’t care either way?

you are 100% talking about the RTR Axial Capra. That thing will kill lines and crawl like a monster. Plan on the steering servo taking a dump and replacing it but otherwise just get one and have a blast.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I grew up using mid-to-high end Futaba radio gear, but I like my current cheap-as-gently caress Flysky GT3B setup better than any of them.

Absolute 100% agreed on the lipos. The only real downside they have is that they're theoretically more dangerous than NiMH, but if you're dumb enough you can definitely boil one of those packs too with a timer charger

Just make sure you don't dead short them (which should be the case for any battery), use a proper lipo charger, and use an ESC that has a conservatively set low voltage cutoff, and you'll be fine.

Snowmankilla
Dec 6, 2000

True, true



Somewhat Heroic posted:


you are 100% talking about the RTR Axial Capra. That thing will kill lines and crawl like a monster. Plan on the steering servo taking a dump and replacing it but otherwise just get one and have a blast.

This is actually super what I am looking for. Looks bad rear end. That $450 price tag is a bit over where I am looking to be. Maybe a trx4 is not a horrible idea.

Bruxism
Apr 29, 2009

Absolutely not anxious about anything.


Clapping Larry

Somewhat Heroic posted:

Generally speaking, steering servos and electronic speed controllers are universal/standard fit items. The micro servos that are OPTIONAL setup for the 10III need to be a specific size/strength. I think there are some Spektrum brand ones that Axial lists (keeping it in the "family") but there are some Savox units that are nice compact and strong. The micro servos are optional if you want to use the two speed setup (you can shift from high or low speed) and/or use a dig function.

micro servos are optional and you can use the model without these. You would not have a dig function or two speeds is all.

If you are unfamiliar with what a dig does, it basically locks the back tires from spinning and disconnects the rear driveline from the transmission so only the front tires are spinning. For triple locked models it helps get around tight corners and is a neat party trick to hit "sick lines". I have never used it myself.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J9K0ud_BiG8

The reason it discusses radios that have multiple channels is that you need a channel for each function. Steering is one function, throttle/brake is a second function. A two speed would be an additional function, the dig would be another so up to four channels can be used for the full functionality. Spektrum offers some pretty reasonably priced radio systems that have the transmitter and receiver. The DX5C is only $155. They have a new "Rugged" model that is kind of weather proof and more durable. It is a 5 channel, but receiver is not included. I am considering one of these for my son eventually since the OOOLD DX2S he has been using is getting real long in tooth. Good for one handed driving (so you can take videos with your phone/other hand - I am not kidding) and also a good idea if you have a little kid and you are worried about your radio getting dropped. Futaba is another brand, the one I use personally. The 4PM would be a four channel radio, it runs about $250. Futaba has a 3 channel option for under $150 (3PV) that would get you either the dig function OR the two speed function but not both.

For batteries get LiPo. They are just so much better. Use them appropriately, take proper precautions. Some people are okay with cheaper packs. I find that the GensAce batteries (which are the OEM supplier for nearly everyone that doesn't suck) are a great value and perform very well. A 5000mah battery will go for hours in a crawler on a single charge.


you are 100% talking about the RTR Axial Capra. That thing will kill lines and crawl like a monster. Plan on the steering servo taking a dump and replacing it but otherwise just get one and have a blast.

Thanks again for all these detailed responses. If you don't mind, I think I'll put together a shopping list and post it here to make sure I'm getting the right parts and not missing anything.

kuffs
Mar 29, 2007

Projectile Dysfunction


Buy two smaller packs rather than a single 5000. Shove the extra in your back pocket. Much nicer to have a spare than a single large pack imo.

Bruxism
Apr 29, 2009

Absolutely not anxious about anything.


Clapping Larry

Ok, so here is the list I came up with. Does this look like everything that would be needed to complete this build? I'm not trying to be particularly frugal or top-of-the-line with any component so I'd welcome feedback if it looks like I am overpaying or under buying something I shouldn't be. One thing the instruction book calls for is silicon oil, but I couldn't figure out what weight I would need. I'll also likely get some cheaper Wera drivers instead of the expensive Vanquish ones.

It takes 2-4 weeks for me to get mail so if I leave something out it puts everything on hold. If I decide to pull the trigger I'd like to have everything I need in one big shipment. Thanks again for the help.

powderific
May 13, 2004



Grimey Drawer

The kit probably comes with grease, thread lock, and shock oil (at least mine did, but it was the previous version.) I do not think youíre getting much value for money on a $60 hex driver set ó Iíve built several kits with a plastic dynamite set that was like $15 and been perfectly happy.

kuffs
Mar 29, 2007

Projectile Dysfunction


MIP is the gold standard for hex drivers. The only caveat being that they donít have replaceable tips. But you probably wonít need to replace them if you take care of them. I didnít even know Vanquish made a tool kit.

Please donít buy stock Axial electronics, especially for a brushed setup. The Hobbywing Quicrun 1080 is more than enough to drive a 55t motor. And while weíre at it, go for a Holmes brushed motor. Like a Trailmaster Sport 55t or a Crawlmaster sport 20t. Itís the same price and will be a lot better quality and performance. The Crawlmaster series are 5 slot motors so donít be put off by the lower turns, theyíre still slow and torquey.

kuffs fucked around with this message at 16:38 on Jun 3, 2020

kuffs
Mar 29, 2007

Projectile Dysfunction


Also, I own a set of Wera drivers and would strongly discourage you from getting them. The small handles do not offer enough torque for many RC tasks. And the unique tip design that Wera touts as innovation is actually worse than conventional designs. Applying the torque to the corners really just increases your chances of rounding the screw head. I say this as someone who really likes the other Wera stuff I have.

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evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003



As others have pointed out, donít buy electronics from first parties. A quickrun 1080 or a Castle with a holmes motor would be less money and much nicer/more adjustable to your taste.

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