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Any one have any recommendations for a generic set of nuts, bolts, c-clips etc for Tamiya cars? I've got an old Astute I'm getting running again, and I'm gonna need some new hardware for it.
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Jun 29, 2020 15:06
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MarxCarl posted:Any one have any recommendations for a generic set of nuts, bolts, c-clips etc for Tamiya cars? I've got an old Astute I'm getting running again, and I'm gonna need some new hardware for it. I tend to just look for the appropriate sizes on eBay and buy packs of 50 or whatever of each size of screw and nut in A2 stainless steel, as they are really cheap, look nicer and you'll have plenty of spares if you need them. You can also switch from JIS screws to Allen bolt as they're just easier to work with. E-clips etc have standard sizes too, so should be doable via the same method. Hinge pins I've not had luck finding generic replacements to make sets up, though.
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Jul 4, 2020 01:49
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It'll cost you about $75 to get all the screws you might need. Forever. :-) Really, not a bad deal. There's no generic replacement for the shoulder or hinge pin screws from tamiya. You're gonna pay the tamiya tax there.
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Jul 4, 2020 13:50
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Built an axial Capra which is a super cool kit. The component quality is fabulous and it’s great to drive. I hate the tiny battery compartment, electronics wired into the cage, and proprietary dig servo. I love the look, that it came with a light bar,bead lock wheels. I’m not sure that it outperforms my 4WS Everest 10 in any regard but coolness at 2-3x the price. I only took silly flexy pics. The modest Everest really reaches like a monster compared to the axial, but doesn’t carry weight as low. On our make shift crawler course their differences kind of evened out. The axial looks 50x cooler of course.  Also found my 10+ year old losi micro T, rehabbed the battery, superglued a broken shock. I can’t believe how detailed this little fucker is and it kinda rips, I’d totally forgotten. 
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Jul 5, 2020 00:13
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Took the TT02 out to a local baseball diamond and ripped around for a while. That is what it was built for. Unfortunately I was having too much fun to take any pictures but you'll have to take my word that it was a good time. As a downside, the steering is a bit grumpy now after dumping about a quarter pound of dirt out of it  . I think I need to pull the front end apart and give it a deep clean.
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Jul 5, 2020 01:51
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Painted. Need to get some headlights.
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Jul 6, 2020 02:33
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Instead of putting packs through the aforementioned new axial I decided this week's nights would be spent building the pebble crawler:  It's an Orlandoo Hunter F-150. Holy gently caress this thing is ridiculous for an r/c build. Here's the fuckin' steering servo:  There are approximately 4 billion tiny ball links used in this build. Here's all the suspension links; note the normal sized needle nose pliers on the right:  The transmission and front/rear axles use brass gears. Universal joints front and rear. Two axles built:  Did I mention that it comes with a full integrated light and sound system? I hope you like soldering SMD components. Here is one turn signal being illuminated by my multimeter and another sitting on the mat:  These are sold only as build kids, and 3rd parties put together packs with the radio/esc/motor/battery/lights/etc. I got the all in one from gonitrohobbies on eBay, who was helpless in resolving my missing parts issue except to offer a full return part way into the build. I was missing two plastic pieces and just bought them from another site to continue the build. There are also metal upgrades, and a range of different RPM motors. I have no idea what motor I have. My build isn't done yet but I got it up to the bare driveable status tonight and am excited. Still have to do all the painting and wire in the brake lights, reverse lights, and rear turn signals. The transmitter and esc/receiver/light/audio system is actually really competent and you can adjust how all the lights work on the fly. The first desktop trial was rough because I had to drive with one hand and film with the other: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5R8CWNCkUT0
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Jul 11, 2020 04:37
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I was looking at those as well, but had read they were not a fun build. I went with an SCX24 instead and have not regretted it.
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Jul 11, 2020 04:50
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If you have a good 1.3mm hex wrench, and a well lit work area at chest level, and experience soldering SMD components, it's a fun build of above average difficulty. If you're not experienced in rc builds and can't solder tiny and don't have good tiny tools it would be a horrible nightmare.
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Jul 11, 2020 05:05
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It took me way too long to find this forum. I bought an axial scx10ii for $200 used a while back right around the start of covid. I thought it would be a fun way to kill time hunkered down in my backyard. The last rc car I had was some awful radio shack blue 69 Camaro and a tonka ricochet when I was 12. I already had lipo batteries and a charger from airsoft so that was cool. The guy threw in a big 7.2v 5000mah battery and still had all the extra parts from the build. We met at an rc shop that has a crawling course and that was a blast.  Since then, I've built a small course with a few different lines and obstacles in my backyard. I've taken it every time I go camping. It's a lot of fun. The quality is mind boggling compared to the lovely old cars I was used to. The traction is incredible and I'm always surprised how capable it is.  
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Jul 11, 2020 06:34
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I know this isn't small for model painting in general, but for an r/c person this is loving teensy:  The clearances to fit the forward half of the body on were made too tight by layers of paint on the inside, so I need to do some sanding to get it to sit perfectly flat and line all the lights up.
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Jul 12, 2020 00:35
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I'm an experienced builder and my little Orlandoo D110 was very challenging. Excellent detail and fantastic results. But difficult. In my case I ended up taking apart a receiver, direct wiring everything else, and then just hosing it down in liquid electrical tape. edit: gallery here https://imgur.com/a/3hudvgB
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Jul 14, 2020 02:26
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I like how the official orlandoo log pile is whatever screwdrivers/etc you have on the desk. It doesn't weigh enough to make keystrokes when you drive across the keeb: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4gMEBWEsghY
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Jul 14, 2020 03:10
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Wow I love the looks of those baby crawlers—the movement and articulation looks really nice. I've never soldered SMD components before though and fear that would be my undoing.
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Jul 19, 2020 18:07
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The SMD soldering is for the lights, which have extremely fine insulated wires and tiny solder pads. It's not hard, just a big leap to take from zero if you aren't already used to it and easy to destroy the components. When you combine that with the fact that there are headlights, brake lights, turn signals, fog lights, and reverse lights, it adds up to a big (tiny) task. You can buy pre-wired SMD LEDs on ebay if you want to avoid the task, or also just run it without LEDs.
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Jul 19, 2020 18:23
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Oh nice — the LEDs are definitely cool, but not a dealbreaker at all.
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Jul 19, 2020 18:43
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Verman posted:It took me way too long to find this forum. I bought an axial scx10ii for $200 used a while back right around the start of covid. This looks like a great place to have fun! The SCX10II is such a good machine and for $200 that is a great value. Ambihelical Hexnut posted:
I am (im)patiently waiting for my SCX10iii kit to arrive. They are supposed to be back in stock this week. I sold off my RR10 Bomber roller about four weeks ago since it has not moved under power in probably two years. I just have more fun with my 1.9 stuff. Probably took a bath on it but the dude was stoked to get the rig and it was outfitted really nice. If I pieced it all off I probably could have gotten more but  I ended up grabbing another Tekin ROC412 Element proof for the 10iii in 2300kv. I am using the same in my VS4-10. I don't need a ton of wheel speed. I only use 2S batteries. I will be building it with the two speed and dig function too which I am pretty excited to try out. I ended up grabbing a Tekin RX4 ESC too but I think I will put that in my VS4-10 Limited and will kick the old Novak crawler ESC into the Axial. I have a set of rock lights ready too. Just trying to figure out how I am going to paint the body. I actually think I might try doing the splash livery of a Solo jazz cup. To me it would be both stupid and funny to try out.  Just add truck for adventures  I am just getting itchy fingers. This will probably get me to finally get around to finishing my install of my VFD transmission on my VS4-10. I need to sell of some more bits too. I can probably sell my VS4-10 stock transmission for like $80. I need to sell off the motor and speed controller I took from my Yeti XL too since I don't think I am ever going to buy another model that will use those. Maybe if I offload a few random bits of things I will do the needful and finally buy the Sand Scorcher I have put off a dozen times over.  bonus content - here is a photo of a replacement twin crankshaft for a twin cylinder 57cc engine. 
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Jul 20, 2020 17:34
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Somewhat Heroic posted:
Whoa, where do you find parts for stuff like that? Are they all methane or two stroke or what?
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Jul 20, 2020 19:56
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namlosh posted:Whoa, where do you find parts for stuff like that? I have mentioned here before but I work in-industry. We focus primarily on large scale gassers. Two stroke 1/5 stuff. This is from the RCMK (RC Marine Korea) twin. Originally it was a boat motor but they made an air cooled version and we started sticking them in the HPI Baja with some conversion kits. The noise is incredible when they are on the pipes. It sounds like a miniature Banshee. While this is a much more complicated way to get more displacement the noise is the best. The more common thing now is large bore single cylinder engines, ~40cc through 80cc is what you see (40, 46, 50, 55, 65, 71, 80). These are built with custom designed billet aluminum crankcases with a reed induction and cylinder kits from Malossi, an Italian group making top end kits for scooters and pocket bikes. Having a ~3 foot long car with an 80cc engine is a hell of a thing. Most end up being built as shelf queens because they are as undriveable as you imagine them being. Sweet spot for big bore reeds are 40-50cc in my opinion. A 65cc you can barely hold on.
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Jul 20, 2020 21:42
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I have been searching everywhere for an in stock Kyosho Mini-z AWD to try and drift with. I Amy bite the bullet and order from Hong Kong. It sucks that all the extra Covid time also means Covid supply issues.
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Jul 21, 2020 04:00
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AMain seems to have a lot of RWD mini z stuff in. Also check out used stuff on ebay. I have also seen some mini-q china clones floating around that seem well built (awd, brushless, carbon), but no report on how they drive. This one's in the US: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-28-Mini-Z-BRUSHLESS-Racing-AWD-Pocket-Rocket-RTR/193586312203?hash=item2d12a4b40b:g:2oMAAOSwLE9fC44p
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Jul 21, 2020 22:21
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Snowmankilla posted:I have been searching everywhere for an in stock Kyosho Mini-z AWD to try and drift with. I Amy bite the bullet and order from Hong Kong. It sucks that all the extra Covid time also means Covid supply issues. Looks like RC Mart has some in stock. They are a reputable company and quick to ship. I would grab the Initial D RX-7 they have in stock.
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Jul 21, 2020 22:45
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I will check those out!
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Jul 21, 2020 23:46
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Snowmankilla posted:I have been searching everywhere for an in stock Kyosho Mini-z AWD to try and drift with. I Amy bite the bullet and order from Hong Kong. It sucks that all the extra Covid time also means Covid supply issues. I have a bunch of X-Mods cars I just found in storage that I'm trying to get rid of. They're basically the same thing and I have a ton of spare parts plus one that is built entirely of aluminum hop up parts. PM me if you want more info That said I'm just getting back into the hobby after dusting off my old collection. One car I'm having trouble with is my old HPI Cup Racer rally conversion. It's running an old Novak Havoc ESC with a Novak 17.5 brushless motor. It's getting steering input but just emits a high pitched whine under throttle. I tried another known working receiver and same thing. I went through the instructions for restore to factory settings which went as directed and same issue. I'm guessing the ESC is toast unless someone has a suggestion. Any leads on a cheap sensored briushless ESC that is compatible with the motor? Preferably something that won't take a month + to get to CA. I'm also looking for a good source on a 35-40mm turnbuckle to repair my Tamiya DF-03RA.
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Jul 21, 2020 23:59
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Tamiya's TBLE-02s is my go-to for super budget brushless/brushed 2S ESC. Usually around $25 on ebay new because people rip them out of kits like tamiya bodies. I guess the voltage cutoff is only set for LiFe not LiPo but most cars use large enough packs that I haven't run into it. For turnbuckles basically anything. If you're just replacing one for noncompetitive reasons just get any steel turnbuckle in the right length. Edit- what do you mean by 'just a high pitched whine'? Is it possible the motor is spinning but not the drivetrain (spun pinion)? Is it possible it's wired incorrectly or incompletely, or the sensor wire is partially disconnected and it's cogging? Ambihelical Hexnut fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Jul 22, 2020 |
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Jul 22, 2020 01:02
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Here's what it's doing. https://vm.tiktok.com/JFycwaU/
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Jul 22, 2020 04:18
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What color LEDs are illuminating on throttle? Did you try recalibrating the throttle, as the manual for that model has a lot of protections which can be triggered by an incorrect neutral point.
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Jul 22, 2020 04:47
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:What color LEDs are illuminating on throttle? Did you try recalibrating the throttle, as the manual for that model has a lot of protections which can be triggered by an incorrect neutral point. It was yellow. I rebound it to a new reciever and now it's doing this. Showing red as it should. https://vm.tiktok.com/JFfrney/ I'll try the throttle settings on the TX.
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Jul 22, 2020 04:57
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Also sometimes you have to reverse the throttle channel on the transmitter in order for it to calibrate.
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Jul 22, 2020 05:11
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Just to clarify the throttle calibration is not a function on the radio, it's this procedure: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SS-iLNv2iBw
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Jul 22, 2020 05:12
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kuffs posted:Also sometimes you have to reverse the throttle channel on the transmitter in order for it to calibrate. Tried that. Ambihelical Hexnut posted:Just to clarify the throttle calibration is not a function on the radio, it's this procedure: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SS-iLNv2iBw Just did that again. Latest results. https://vm.tiktok.com/JFfC5FL/ My next move is to replace those Tamiya connectors with T-Plugs and see if it's a current issue. Im wondering if the low voltage cutoff is kicking in because of a loose connection on the battery wire. James Woods fucked around with this message at 06:38 on Jul 22, 2020 |
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Jul 22, 2020 06:18
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https://www.competitionx.com/pdf/esc/novak-havoc-sport-sensorless-esc-manual.pdf Says red and green is LiPo voltage cutoff exceeded. It's also possible your cells are unbalanced really far assuming you charged the battery before trying it, and it's below cutoff.
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Jul 22, 2020 13:18
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Are there any decent crawlers in the $200-250 range? Or is it worth going up to the Capra or scx10?
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Jul 23, 2020 21:14
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JRay88 posted:Are there any decent crawlers in the $200-250 range? Or is it worth going up to the Capra or scx10? If you can get the SCX10 ii at a minimum you are going to have a great time. Horizon Hobby and HH authorized dealers currently have a "suns out funs out" program going on where you can get a 15% discount on select kits, including a few SCX10ii models: AXI03001T1 and AXI03001T2, the 1955 Ford Truck making them ~$350, the 6x6 Unimog RTR AXI03002 (~$381) or the 1.9 Wraiths which are very cool little trucks AXI90074T1 and AXI90074T2, bringing those down to about $280. If you can score one of those for $280 then that is a hell of a deal. You will need a battery/charger but these days you can find decent batteries and chargers for pretty inexpensive. Edit: My SCX10III finally came off back order and will be delivered some time next week so 
Somewhat Heroic fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Jul 23, 2020 |
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Jul 23, 2020 22:24
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JRay88 posted:Are there any decent crawlers in the $200-250 range? Or is it worth going up to the Capra or scx10? Not sure if you're willing to look used but I picked up my SCX10ii used for 200 and its been great.
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Jul 23, 2020 22:30
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JRay88 posted:Are there any decent crawlers in the $200-250 range? Or is it worth going up to the Capra or scx10? Redcat makes a lot in a lower price bracket. I can't say that my capra really crawls any better than my everest 10, it just looks cooler and has premium features.
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Jul 24, 2020 00:35
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Ambihelical Hexnut posted:Redcat makes a lot in a lower price bracket. I can't say that my capra really crawls any better than my everest 10, it just looks cooler and has premium features. How is the parts availability/upgradable on that Redcat? I like the price point, but if it’s gonna be something I can’t fiddle with or fix then idk I’m probably better off buying the Capra. I do agree the Capra looks cooler.
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Jul 24, 2020 01:57
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It's pretty simple, and I think a lot of the Everest parts are interchangeable with Axial parts. I upgraded mine to 4WS for $30 in parts. Their newer trucks are fancier and widely popular (Gen 7/8).
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Jul 24, 2020 02:20
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So I still haven't sorted out the Cup Racer but going through the stable I found another problem. Im trying to bind my stock Traxxas Slash to a Spektrum DX3E. It's bound to my DX3S just fine but I want to run two cars simultaneously hence I got the 3E. I've inserted the bind plug, powered rhe model on and then held the bind button on the TX and powered it on and nothing ideas? https://vm.tiktok.com/JFWwvYj/
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Jul 24, 2020 02:44
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James Woods posted:Tried that. Have you actually measured Vbatt? Is your ESC not configured for more cells than what your battery has?
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Jul 24, 2020 11:32
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