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a friend got me hooked on RC cars, so i stormed out and bought a Tamiya super fighter G. then i bought a Tamiya gravel hound.  and a TT-01E, so i've pretty much got every base covered now. although i wanna sell my gravel hound and super fighter so i can get this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tvcxBz1bOuI&feature=related beast of a brushless truggy. This hobby is a giant moneypit, but hot drat it sure is fun geeking out at some field or parking lot and watching one's car going faster than everyone else.
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Jan 28, 2010 10:12
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kuffs posted:Who is Haiboxing? Please don't waste your money on Chinese knockoffs. Buy the real deal. You'll save money on spare parts and the build quality will be a lot better. isnt every car made in china these days? either way, nearly every RC store here in Denmark carries Haiboxing products, so aftermarket support is not an issue, and parts are also pretty cheap. that said, the traxxas is goddamn sexy, but so expensive  the Stealth X09 is 280 bucks while the traxxas 750 bucks. that's quite the difference.
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Jan 28, 2010 21:31
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in that case, it's on my list of stuff to gawk at at the store. question is, should i save up for the 1/16 or the 1/10 model. (much money vs silly amount of money)
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Jan 28, 2010 22:05
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goddamn, Traxxas products in general are about 200 USD cheaper in the US than here. drat you and your crap economy!
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Feb 1, 2010 22:12
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Hypnolobster posted:Surely if there's a $200 difference you could get somebody to buy you one and ship it over taxed as a gift* this would only work if someone lived near a cheap RC store (the price i got is from towerhobbies) and was willing to send it without packaging. even if caught in customs, the VAT and fees would still be cheaper than buying locally.
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Feb 1, 2010 23:58
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Well now, i've gone and ordered myself some FUTURE BATTERIES (LiPO) for my current cars, some TRX connectors for the same and a lipo buzzer so i dont kill my batteries by draining them while dicking around on the tarmac. at least the batteries where cheap, 27 dollars from hobbyking! EDIT: received my batteries today, after soldering on Traxxas connectors, it appears that they work just splendidly in my otherwise unimpressive TT-01E, gotta get me a brushless kit for it. that'd really make it shine. Frobbe fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Feb 9, 2010 |
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Feb 5, 2010 21:48
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Weissbier posted:Well, I went ahead and ordered the Traxxas brushless E-revo - What a blast! is that the 1:8 E-revo or is is the VXL 1:16? either way, do give a bigger trip report, me and a buddy want to pick one up each next month, although just the 1:16 version  for repairing parts until replacements can be procured, look into getting some https://www.sugru.com that stuff rules (if you dont mess about with it while it cures)
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Feb 14, 2010 21:40
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yay, managed to somehow get a second receiver for my graupner 2.4ghz controller, for some reason Graupner thought it wise to make tons of kits but not sell any spare receivers. the fools! now, a question. I have a Graupner DS 8077 Digital servo, but it seems to have the jitters when i use it, even when just connected to a servotester. it can do turns from side to side just fine, but when i try to do gradual control, it's got issues with staying put. any suggestions? i've been to the shop and got a new one in exchange, but it has the same issue. edit: this is the servo: http://www.f1hobbies.com/shop.php?id=868&level= not the most expensive, but a cheap digital.
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Feb 17, 2010 19:35
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InitialDave posted:I got an email advertising these the other day. Not sure what the quality's like, but they seem quite cute: Looks like a Losi micro rock Crawler ripoff. i'd just like to add, that Ebay's poison to my wallet, i just ordered a bunch of aluminium stuff for my DT-02. As it is already, with full ball bearings, it can pull wheelies!
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Feb 19, 2010 14:36
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krushgroove posted:Just be careful what brand you get off eBay, I don't know what GPM or Integy is like these days, but they had pretty terrible reputations for a long time. No-name brands out of Asia can be even less well regarded. it's from a company called 3racing. and the GPM parts have increased considerably in quality, at least the shaft on my TT-01E fit perfectly.
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Feb 19, 2010 15:32
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need tips on snowproofing various electronics! it's great fun to thrash my DT-02 in the snow, but it's not so fun when the ESC or receiver cuts off due to something as silly as a short circuit and has to dry before they will work again.
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Feb 21, 2010 12:34
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IOwnCalculus posted:Oooh, that's tempting. buy new batteries, and fix up everything else. nothing's more fun than restoring old stuff.
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Feb 22, 2010 08:29
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what's the consensus on the HPI E-Firestorm flux? (http://modelsport.co.uk/index.php?CallFunction=ShowSpecification&ItemID=29950) i've been considering this instead of the E-revo VXL, and it's currently winning. EDIT: Also, how is the HPI blitz for actual racing? there's an attempt at getting a short course league started around here, and the blitz hits the sweet spot with regards to price/performance for me. Frobbe fucked around with this message at 20:55 on Feb 22, 2010 |
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Feb 22, 2010 20:28
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krushgroove posted:http://www.hpiracing.com/kitinfo/104558/ That certainly is something! i hope its out before May rolls around, any hints on price?
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Feb 22, 2010 23:44
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krushgroove posted:Don't know the price, but if it's in line with the Baja SS and Savage SS (and I think it will be), it'll be about the same price as the RTR version. It should be out by May. Looking forward to it, glad i posted before buying, otherwise i'd probably have been mighty sad that i missed the chance to get an awesome piece of kit instead of a nice RTR, i already have a 15.5T brushless, ESC and a nice receiver, so all i'd need is the Servo!
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Feb 23, 2010 01:06
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received my LRP 15.5T Eraser brushless motor and their A.I superduper ESC thingy, this thing rocks! and it being 100% waterproof certainly does help in the middle of all this drat snow. EDIT: I now have skidmarks on the dining room table. oops. Frobbe fucked around with this message at 17:02 on Feb 23, 2010 |
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Feb 23, 2010 16:47
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having ignored the advice given here, regarding short course trucks, i went out and bought an SC10, because drat that thing is cheap. Which upgrades are recommended while keeping it at least somewhat stock?
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Mar 1, 2010 14:31
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i'd actually want it for racing, although i do have to buy another just for bashing later on and breakproof that one. i've mounted an LRP brushless on it, although that's had it's issues to say the least. The factory mounted tamiya plug... melted on me and the motor wasnt even running, i simply turned it on. so i quickly switched over to a connected sorta plug instead, which appears to work just fine. the ESC is lrp's A.I reverse thingy, which kinda sucks because you cannot manually adjust it at all, which is what i believe led to the plug melting thing, the brushless i have is 15.5T, so that should be plenty of power for me to get my bearings with the SC10. the stock motor is an awesome beast though, even though it's brushed and horrible maintenance wise. edit: whats the stock speed on the SC10 anyway Frobbe fucked around with this message at 08:51 on Mar 2, 2010 |
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Mar 2, 2010 08:48
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i want tires like that on the Sc10, they are nice!
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Mar 2, 2010 11:27
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that LRP ESC i talked about that melted tamiya plugs? i soldered really nice bullet gold connectors on it, ran my car a bit, turned it off and left it. a few hours later i went to run it again to show it off to a friend, but all the ESC did was emit a high pitched squeal, then promptly melt so fast and so hot the soldering on the wires melted! take notice that this happened without the motor running at all, it simply just melted because i dared to turn it on! no damage to the car, so i'm just gonna slap in the stock engine and have fun with that.
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Mar 3, 2010 08:08
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You Am I posted:Tamiya plugs usually melt under race conditions, due to the heat build up from high resistance they have. Whereas Deans plugs and Corolly plugs are low resistance, and don't have the heat build up yeah, i was aware of that, but i sure as hell didnt expect the plug to melt just by turning the ESC on edit: complimentary top of page picture  complimentary picture will be followed by horrible pictures of a burnt ESC.    
Frobbe fucked around with this message at 15:37 on Mar 3, 2010 |
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Mar 3, 2010 08:59
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oh hey, i need this:  Click here for the full 750x498 image. and this!  Click here for the full 750x498 image. bye money!
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Mar 7, 2010 22:04
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i, too, might be interested in anything short course truck related you might have for sale, as i live in denmark, shipping aint too bad! edit: i believe in pictures, here is one of a body painted by Steve Zielke, for sale in denmark! 
Frobbe fucked around with this message at 17:24 on Mar 9, 2010 |
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Mar 9, 2010 17:17
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Idiot race posted:Heres a stupid question, i'm looking for a battery charger for 7.2V NimH batteries. Years ago I just had a crappy wall charger which I used to leave on all night that probably damaged the battery anyway. I have the same model, but with lipo/life support as well, i'd recommend you get one that does that from the get go, as you'll want to use li-po or lifepo later on anyway
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Mar 10, 2010 12:52
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Li-po batteries really aren't that hard to work with! i figured it out, it means everyone should be able to. for cars, make sure you get lipo batts that are actually shaped like the ordinary nimh stickpacks, because the ones hobbyking sell are often oddly shaped and don't fit in battery holders 1:10 cars come with. if you run 1:8, go hog wild. basic batteries are 2S25C, which means it's 2 cells and can discharge 25 times it's rated MaH (a 5000 MaH can therefore discharge 125A) most ESCs work excellently with this and should have no issues, particularly if they have a lipo setting. after this, you can explore 3S batteries, which provide you with 11.1v and similar discharge, this is mostly for 1:8 cars and everything traxxas sells with their VXL system.
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Mar 10, 2010 16:59
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One day i will own a 1:5 or similar gasoline RC car, until then, i will just continue to gently caress about with tiny 1:10 short course trucks EDIT: since i believe in top of the page being more than two lines of text, i'm just gonna say that i bought an LRP A.I REVERSE PRO ESC today, and it works great, unlike that other ESC on the last page, which burned to death. Frobbe fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Mar 11, 2010 |
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Mar 11, 2010 20:07
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stuffed the new ESC and my old 15.5T brushless motor into my SC10, it works great! although it's not as zippy as my Tamiya DT-02 with the old 17T brushed engine from the SC10, but i suspect that's due to the gearing. alas, i have no more money this month for toys, so i'll have to order all the neat stuff i want from integy and others later.
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Mar 12, 2010 16:31
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well now, i've got some sort of Thunder Tiger Nitro car incoming, although i havent the faintest idea which model it is! any links to particularly informative resources regarding care and feeding of nitro powered RC cars? it's this particular car, i got it for 80 bucks, so i don't really care that i dont actually know what it is, but i am told it runs nicely.  Click here for the full 930x698 image.
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Mar 14, 2010 23:06
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Talked to an acquintance, he told me had an old car in his basement, gave me this: Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. that's an Ansmann Racing Virus with a .21cc engine, it hasnt run for a few years, so i am currently checking it over. from what i can see, the rear shocks need to be rebuilt/replaced, whatever's cheaper, and then the fuel tank needs to be cleaned and i need an airfilter. still, it's cheap! because free is cheap.
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Mar 15, 2010 18:01
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krushgroove posted:drat, people are just throwing cars at you the engine is still for sale at various stores, so parts shouldnt be an issue, when i pull the starter, it goes "POP" so i take that as a good sign, at least it is on a scooter. the car itself is only 2 years old, as it was released in 2008. one of the rear shocks is completely ruined, as the bottom seal is gone, but it appears to be non rebuildable, but seeing that a new set only costs 14 pounds, it's not an issue either.
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Mar 15, 2010 19:14
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krushgroove posted:OK so compression seems to still be in the engine, but did the guy run the engine dry and put in after-run oil after he last ran it? If not it may be full of rust and/or sludge. yeah, i have absolutely no idea on that point, but the outside of the engine is rust free, although various screws and such were quite rusty. a vigorious scrubbing with a toothbrush and WD40 has rectified this particular problem. i'll be having a friend over to show me the ropes regarding nitro cars, but i do have to ask, is a starter box REQUIRED or is it just a very nice addition?
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Mar 15, 2010 20:06
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Received this: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=10608&aff=205008 today, it's definitely not something i'd ever put on a car that costs more than 250 bucks, but for stuff like my DT-02 super fighter G it's just great! it's made from nice plastics, is mated to it's receiver from the factory and it even has a port for plugging it into your computer for simulator use. the problems begin when you use it, as it appears to have no failsafe, the Tx must be turned on before turning on the Rx, otherwise it just speeds on out there. i'm kinda spoiled by my nice graupner that prevents my car from destroying itself. but hey, it's 25 dollars, extra Rx are 6 dollars or so and S&H is equally low, they even sent it wrapped in gift paper wishing me a happy birthday, oh you customs avoiding whippersnappers, you!
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Mar 16, 2010 11:37
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Pulled the glow plug from the engine today, it was nice and no rust, and the cylinder moved up and down freely. i should also receive parts to rebuild the rear dampers and a fuel filter, because i am not entirely sure that i cleaned the gas tank out properly (it was filled with a brown and green sludge, any idea what this could be?) the carburator moves freely and has no rust, so as it is, all i have to do is spend around a 100 bucks on it.
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Mar 17, 2010 11:48
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krushgroove posted:Sounds good, the slime in the tank is just old fuel. Dump it out and rinse out the tank with automotive brake cleaner (it's the same as motor spray & RC car cleaner) and some fresh nitro fuel. New fuel lines are a good thing since the old ones will have gunky fuel in them as well. well there's a reason i could see into the carb, there was no airfilter, luckily i should receive one before this weekend where the car is going to be run, under the careful guidance from a friend with nitro experience but i do have After run oil and Air filter oil plus 4 liters of nitro in stock. and an engine stopper, although i have no idea where that thing has to be stuck in to stop it.also got new fuel lines and a fuel filter incoming, the fuel lines are green, so's the air filter, to match the car 
Frobbe fucked around with this message at 13:20 on Mar 17, 2010 |
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Mar 17, 2010 13:12
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okay, whoever said that the old THunder TIger car i was about to receive was an EB4 is wrong  it's a 10+ year old rally car. 10/1 2WD with an engine from a plane of some sort. spent an hour at the RC store having him checking it over and oiling various stuff. i'll have it run and tuned this weekend, it looks to be hella fun, mostly because it is so old but still functional. the engine is a thunder tiger gp-15bx(p) if that tells anyone anything. Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. edit 1: Okay, had the engine on this beast running today, albeit only for about 20 seconds until it stalled on me. this is because i have no bleeding idea what i am doing with regards to the engien settings, but at least i think i applied the after run oil properly. can't wait till saturday! edit 2: okay, i've noticed i used the word okay at the beginning of every paragraph in this post, is that okay? Frobbe fucked around with this message at 11:32 on Mar 18, 2010 |
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Mar 17, 2010 19:01
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kuffs posted:Frobbe, see if you can dig up the default needle settings for that engine. Thunder Tiger may have been kind enough to post a manual for it. Also, the glow plug is probably shot. As luck would have it, i received the original manual and even the original box with the car, how that thing's survived fourteen years in the hands of various 15 year old kids i have no idea. it's got the default settings and all the part numbers, even though they are kinda useless (parts numbers) as i can't even find any other mentions of this car on the internet, although that might just be me failing at using google properly. in other news, i traded my TT-01E for a Walkera Dragonfly 60B (apparently the B stands for brushless?)
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Mar 18, 2010 16:11
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okay, i think i just put that old car out of it's misery. i put the needle at the factory settings, got it going and then it just revved out of control. i should've read up on how to stop it (blocked the exhaust and got it to stop that way) i think the piston's busted or someting similar, at least it wont crank. it may have run too lean. but drat it sounded awesome for the one whole minute it did run
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Mar 18, 2010 17:30
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what's a CP? yeah, this is my first helicopter, so i am going to be very, very careful with it. the good news are that i have one extra battery for it along with the one the seller is giving me, so that's cool. any recommended resources on this helicopter?
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Mar 18, 2010 18:24
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IsaacNewton posted:BTW it's an hard heli to learn on, I'd suggest you pick a flite MSR to get the basics down and resell it when you get bored with it. the mSR is a fixed pitch heli and your LHS should have plenty of spare part for them. Will do as soon as i have money. the local hobby store sells them for around 89 euros, which i believe is quite cheap! kuffs posted:It's probably flooded. Disconnect the fuel line and the backpressure line on the muffler. Then pull the glowplug and crank it while holding it upside down. Oh, gonna try that saturday then! when i am on an old carpark nobody cares that the asphalt gets dirty as gently caress on. and just because it's been nagging me, you arent supposed to add anything to the nitro fuel you buy from the stores, right? i have 4 liters of 25% nitro that cost me around 20 dollars a liter!
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Mar 18, 2010 19:15
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| # ¿ May 17, 2024 02:38 |
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kuffs posted:Nope, rc car fuel comes with oil mixed in already. Oh, okay, that's one worry off my list. Nitro cars are finicky, noisy, bitches. I've now established that the engine still works and turns over as it should, after emptying it of all vital fluids. after that i put a few drops of after run oil into it and cranked it a few times. hopefully this will not be it's last oils :V
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Mar 18, 2010 21:13
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