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Phat_Albert posted:Well, I bought a Parkzone T-28D Trojan and its my first aileron plane. I do well with aileron planes in the sim, but I'm nervous as hell to maiden it for real. Everyone on RCGroups says its a great flier and a great second plane, despite having ailerons and being low-wing. I had one of these as a second plane and beat the poo poo out of it taking off and landing in my tiny suburban backyard. It flew with minimal rebuilding for as many charges as it took the stock battery to stop working. Find somewhere grassy to land, cut the power, and glide in shallow. That thing will tumble and roll pretty well with little to no damage to its light foam body. Other than that, be advised that it will go pretty drat fast especially with a tail wind and it's easy for it to get far enough away that you can fall victim to reversible perspective and think you're going to gagressively roll/climb to safety but actually swing it right into the earth. Use the lowest amount of power that you can perform safe flying at until you get a feel for it.
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Oct 25, 2010 01:58
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Built an axial Capra which is a super cool kit. The component quality is fabulous and it’s great to drive. I hate the tiny battery compartment, electronics wired into the cage, and proprietary dig servo. I love the look, that it came with a light bar,bead lock wheels. I’m not sure that it outperforms my 4WS Everest 10 in any regard but coolness at 2-3x the price. I only took silly flexy pics. The modest Everest really reaches like a monster compared to the axial, but doesn’t carry weight as low. On our make shift crawler course their differences kind of evened out. The axial looks 50x cooler of course.  Also found my 10+ year old losi micro T, rehabbed the battery, superglued a broken shock. I can’t believe how detailed this little fucker is and it kinda rips, I’d totally forgotten. 
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Jul 5, 2020 00:13
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Painted. Need to get some headlights.
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Jul 6, 2020 02:33
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Instead of putting packs through the aforementioned new axial I decided this week's nights would be spent building the pebble crawler:  It's an Orlandoo Hunter F-150. Holy gently caress this thing is ridiculous for an r/c build. Here's the fuckin' steering servo:  There are approximately 4 billion tiny ball links used in this build. Here's all the suspension links; note the normal sized needle nose pliers on the right:  The transmission and front/rear axles use brass gears. Universal joints front and rear. Two axles built:  Did I mention that it comes with a full integrated light and sound system? I hope you like soldering SMD components. Here is one turn signal being illuminated by my multimeter and another sitting on the mat:  These are sold only as build kids, and 3rd parties put together packs with the radio/esc/motor/battery/lights/etc. I got the all in one from gonitrohobbies on eBay, who was helpless in resolving my missing parts issue except to offer a full return part way into the build. I was missing two plastic pieces and just bought them from another site to continue the build. There are also metal upgrades, and a range of different RPM motors. I have no idea what motor I have. My build isn't done yet but I got it up to the bare driveable status tonight and am excited. Still have to do all the painting and wire in the brake lights, reverse lights, and rear turn signals. The transmitter and esc/receiver/light/audio system is actually really competent and you can adjust how all the lights work on the fly. The first desktop trial was rough because I had to drive with one hand and film with the other: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5R8CWNCkUT0
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Jul 11, 2020 04:37
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If you have a good 1.3mm hex wrench, and a well lit work area at chest level, and experience soldering SMD components, it's a fun build of above average difficulty. If you're not experienced in rc builds and can't solder tiny and don't have good tiny tools it would be a horrible nightmare.
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Jul 11, 2020 05:05
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I know this isn't small for model painting in general, but for an r/c person this is loving teensy:  The clearances to fit the forward half of the body on were made too tight by layers of paint on the inside, so I need to do some sanding to get it to sit perfectly flat and line all the lights up.
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Jul 12, 2020 00:35
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I like how the official orlandoo log pile is whatever screwdrivers/etc you have on the desk. It doesn't weigh enough to make keystrokes when you drive across the keeb: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4gMEBWEsghY
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Jul 14, 2020 03:10
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The SMD soldering is for the lights, which have extremely fine insulated wires and tiny solder pads. It's not hard, just a big leap to take from zero if you aren't already used to it and easy to destroy the components. When you combine that with the fact that there are headlights, brake lights, turn signals, fog lights, and reverse lights, it adds up to a big (tiny) task. You can buy pre-wired SMD LEDs on ebay if you want to avoid the task, or also just run it without LEDs.
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Jul 19, 2020 18:23
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AMain seems to have a lot of RWD mini z stuff in. Also check out used stuff on ebay. I have also seen some mini-q china clones floating around that seem well built (awd, brushless, carbon), but no report on how they drive. This one's in the US: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-28-Mini-Z-BRUSHLESS-Racing-AWD-Pocket-Rocket-RTR/193586312203?hash=item2d12a4b40b:g:2oMAAOSwLE9fC44p
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Jul 21, 2020 22:21
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Tamiya's TBLE-02s is my go-to for super budget brushless/brushed 2S ESC. Usually around $25 on ebay new because people rip them out of kits like tamiya bodies. I guess the voltage cutoff is only set for LiFe not LiPo but most cars use large enough packs that I haven't run into it. For turnbuckles basically anything. If you're just replacing one for noncompetitive reasons just get any steel turnbuckle in the right length. Edit- what do you mean by 'just a high pitched whine'? Is it possible the motor is spinning but not the drivetrain (spun pinion)? Is it possible it's wired incorrectly or incompletely, or the sensor wire is partially disconnected and it's cogging? Ambihelical Hexnut fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Jul 22, 2020 |
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Jul 22, 2020 01:02
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What color LEDs are illuminating on throttle? Did you try recalibrating the throttle, as the manual for that model has a lot of protections which can be triggered by an incorrect neutral point.
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Jul 22, 2020 04:47
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Just to clarify the throttle calibration is not a function on the radio, it's this procedure: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SS-iLNv2iBw
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Jul 22, 2020 05:12
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https://www.competitionx.com/pdf/esc/novak-havoc-sport-sensorless-esc-manual.pdf Says red and green is LiPo voltage cutoff exceeded. It's also possible your cells are unbalanced really far assuming you charged the battery before trying it, and it's below cutoff.
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Jul 22, 2020 13:18
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JRay88 posted:Are there any decent crawlers in the $200-250 range? Or is it worth going up to the Capra or scx10? Redcat makes a lot in a lower price bracket. I can't say that my capra really crawls any better than my everest 10, it just looks cooler and has premium features.
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Jul 24, 2020 00:35
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It's pretty simple, and I think a lot of the Everest parts are interchangeable with Axial parts. I upgraded mine to 4WS for $30 in parts. Their newer trucks are fancier and widely popular (Gen 7/8).
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Jul 24, 2020 02:20
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James Woods posted:So I still haven't sorted out the Cup Racer but going through the stable I found another problem. Im trying to bind my stock Traxxas Slash to a Spektrum DX3E. It's bound to my DX3S just fine but I want to run two cars simultaneously hence I got the 3E. I've inserted the bind plug, powered rhe model on and then held the bind button on the TX and powered it on and nothing ideas? SR300 and DX3E manuals say the Rx bind light should be flashing amber in bind mode and that looks green. Maybe your bind plug isn't closing the circuit between the pins? Try another bind plug or just jump between the pins. I'd also try pulling the Tx/Rx a little further away from each other, and if that doesn't work see if the DX3E will bind to your other receiver and your other radio to this receiver.
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Jul 25, 2020 19:21
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 I will not be constrained by what's reasonable.
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Jul 28, 2020 23:52
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There seems to be a pretty decent stock on eBay . A few high end upgrades (vanquish aluminum rear axle, for example) are in very short supply, but the hot racing/integy crap is around. I bought this used from an ebay auction and it came with a lot of upgrades and spares so I'm hopeful it'll get some decent service, but from previously owning an HPI Savage Flux XL I expect that being in this weight and power class you should expect to shred some poo poo on the regular.
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Jul 31, 2020 05:15
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Okay, first tests on the Yeti XL showed some classic 'heavy as gently caress rc car' problems: weird slop all over the place, an absolute chaos of metal on metal noise coming out of it at all times, horrible cogging. The PO put weird multi-piece steel and aluminum turnbuckles on every link. These aluminum rod ends use a captured brass bushing to mate against the pivot ball. I can find no information about what brand they are. One of the steering link bushings was straight up missing, so I replaced it with one of the spares. Still had some slop which I noticed was coming from the aluminum servo horn: it was screwed in, but rocking left/right easily. The servo is a high quality metal gear unit appropriate for the application and feels good; noticed that the servo horn has little 1.5mm screw holes to clamp it onto the output spline, with no screws installed. Installed screws, all good. Oddly the half+ inch of slop really didn't impact steering noticeably while driving. These big mod 1 gear trucks always sound awful to my 64 pitch ear. On heavy acceleration loads I could hear the steel spur grinding; I reset mesh, it ran fine for five minutes, then fell out of mesh again terribly. Inspection reveals both motor plate screws backed out, so the motor was tilting in its mount, and the spur/slipper shaft is bent leading to wobbling of the spur gear. Loctite for the motor plate, new shaft on order. Old bent one is now working well against a stationary motor. A new steel spur gear is like $25. Big truck problems. The truck came with a Tekin RX8 G2 ESC and T8G2 motor which cogged pretty badly. I noticed there was no sensor cable installed and the PO set the ESC up to run sensorless, so I installed a cable and programmed it into sensor mode. Now the motor runs backwards, revealing that the PO wired two of the phases backwards. Fixed that in ESC setup, now she's smooth. She's working great now. I bought two no-name 2S 5000 packs from Amazon for like $30 because all of my racing packs have leads running out of the top that don't fit inside the battery boxes, and the truck produces more than enough power to get into trouble at all times. Because it sits with such a rake angle, hitting bumps at speed or slamming the brakes on a high traction surface can lead to endos pretty quick. I need to put that tire back on the rear rack so the CG is more centered. The giant, grabby tires and tremendous inertia mean getting unsettled in the air causes ridiculous flips and rolls pretty easily, but no damage yet. Unfortunately I only have grass and asphalt at the house and will need to try to find some good bashing dirt before the snow arrives, but I can tell I'm going to enjoy this thing just as much as my Flux. I'll try 6S for 50mph speed runs after I get a few more jumps under my belt. Size comparison: 1/10 TLR 22 on top, 1/8 Mugen in center, 1/8 Berserker on bottom  1/8th scale Berserker in back, '1/8th scale' Yeti in front: 
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Aug 1, 2020 05:24
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Thanks, I'll check it out. Having the diffs shimmed correctly (and/or replaced with HD gears) seems to be a real point of contention on these cars, and something I haven't looked at in mine yet. That SCX build is going to be fun; I did the Capra with one of my kids and now another wants to build with me too so I need to look at the next crawler. Together our posts have created a visual gradient from 1/10th to 1/5th scale. Someone post a VEKTA next to something bigger!
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Aug 1, 2020 13:23
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Sweet! I love the look of forward mounted motor designs. Parallel to my giant rear end Yeti, I also restored an old Latrax Rally 1/18th sedan which after a thorough cleaning, bearings, a motor fan, and tire sauce really hustles around my little cone course in the driveway faster than it has any right to given the brushed motor and NiMH pack. Super fun and somewhat challenging to drive fast, it's very enjoyable in the absence of being able to race on a proper track. That led me to scouring ebay for another one, and I ended up nabbing this Latrax Prerunner for $75. After slapping in the cheapest 7600kv 260 can brushless setup I could find on amazon into it it's basically a teeny Slash. Super fun and jumps like a nano champion: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f47y6hCJtuM My only hard complaint on both of these guys (besides being discontinued) is that they have open diffs on both ends and whatever hop-ups once existed are unobtainium now. With an abundance of power, any traction imbalance in cornering can cause a spin easily. I read in some ancient forums post that the ball diff from an RC18T (also long discontinued) is a drop-in so maybe I'll scour again...
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Aug 8, 2020 04:37
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Yes. LaTrax was a brand like 40 years ago for entry level cars, and Traxxas resurrected it for a while producing a bunch of 1/18th cars and a drone. I think all the Traxxas-branded small scale stuff has been 1/16th. All the cars are variants on the same shaft drive 4wd setup, with a 380 brushed motor.
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Aug 8, 2020 15:17
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The difference between a 1/8 (probably outdoor and loose) and 1/10 (maybe indoor clay) track will cause them to be different from start. 1/8 cars have much more drivetrain and wheel inertia and can do a lot of airborne maneuvering, are beefier, and you'll drive on larger tracks on a much taller stand. My experience with 1/10 4wd buggies is that they are very very fast on 1/10 tracks which tend to have more vertical and technical layouts, and are much more fragile. It's a lot easier for one mistake to end a race. The 1/8 class will probably have a wider range of skill levels (or multiple skill classes) as opposed to the 1/10 4wd which will be a second class for the extremely competitive 2wd buggy guys. Overall they are pretty different driving experiences. I'd probably visit both tracks on a race day before committing too hard and see how the field looks.
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Sep 24, 2020 04:00
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I have spent a lot of disposable income building and trying to race cars I was interested in only to realize nobody showed up consistently for that class and it sucked. If you're going to spend money, see what classes have good attendance at the track you'll visit consistently and buy whatever they're running. It's way more fun to claw your way up a class that routinely runs A B and C mains over a season than it is to be one of two guys who shows up for F1 carpet once a month.
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Sep 24, 2020 15:31
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Those are fun projects. Their performance is more like a bad rock crawler than a normal r/c car; ie, no matter how well printed your geartrain is it's not going to be as efficient, smooth, or durable as real molded delrin/etc gears.. The money you spend will not get equal performance or detail as a similarly priced, say, Tamiya kit, but you get to do more DIY.
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Nov 1, 2020 14:50
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an AOL chatroom posted:Finished up my Orlandoo Hunter OH35P01 build. Definitely going to go back and weather the bumpers and tidy up the electronics when I get a chance, but like others have said, it's pretty capable for a tiny little thing. Looks awesome! The front bumper snapped off mine because there was too much force required to snap/unsnap the forward body panel, so watch out for that.
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Nov 29, 2020 16:04
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If you're going lipo anyways, just know that silvercans haul rear end on 3s.
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Feb 5, 2021 04:03
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In most r/c parlance that's called a 'slipper clutch' which will aid your search terms. Usually manuals will have you tighten it all the way down and then back off a set amount as a starting point probably like 1-1.5 turns. If you're holding both ends of the transmission output stationary the spur gear should be very tough to turn, almost impossible. If the truck slips under hard acceleration that's too loose, but it should be able to slip under high throttle when the wheels are bound from spinning (like when they're caught between rocks and unable to turn). The gear cover should absolutely not touch any gears. Check that it's assembled correctly (spacers in the wrong place can cause this), that the shaft the spur gear drives isn't bent, that the cover is mounted properly. If all that is good you can probably trim the inside of the cover a bit.
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Mar 1, 2021 01:13
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I never consistently raced 1/8th but I've had a lot of 1/8th cars including e-buggy. You can get a perfectly fine 1/8 esc from hobbyking for like $50-75. Certainly Tekin is higher quality equipment but I've had multiple 1:8 HK and multiple tekins over the years and none of them ever failed so...
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Mar 5, 2021 05:38
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A cursory look at the Granite Mega 550 brushed RTR specs say it's lipo compatible. Assuming the traxxas motor you got is also a 550 can with similar output to the stock one, you're probably just bumping into the fact that the lipo can source much more current, so the truck as is may be geared too tall for the surface you're running on and that extra power is just turning into heat since the truck doesn't have enough go to overcome resistance. If the motor is getting over 140 degrees (too hot to tap your finger on for a sec) then it's getting cooked. Lipo batteries of comparable size can also run for way, way longer than a nimh pack which might be contributing to heat buildup. Try running for a timed 5 minutes on a flat smooth surface, varying the throttle like you normally would and see how the heat compares. If it cools down with less resistance you might try gearing down for whatever surface you are running on normally.
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Mar 24, 2021 01:41
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FYI that picture has made me almost pay top dollar plus expensive shipping for a lancia xv-01 like fifteen times in the past few weeks. God damnit I just like tamiya so much.
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May 13, 2021 04:58
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kuffs posted:Are they out of stock or something? I didn't know there was a shortage. I've only found them for sale on eBay and then it's generally 3-400+ for an unopened kit so I'm guessing out of production.
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May 14, 2021 02:19
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Finally got angry/sad/old enough to start my king hauler (knight hauler) build. It's like most of the 80s-90s Tamiya kits: very fun and also a challenge to build, as the screws are bagged randomly instead of by step. Almost all JIS hardware. Chassis rail length vs TA-02  Drive axles have two open gear diffs and share a leaf spring setup  So much metal in this kit: the chassis rails are metal, the steer axle beam is metal, on metal leaf springs, with tiny u-bolts and metal plates holding it together under metal shackles.  I'm terrified to get to the body construction, I think this is going to be a slow project that I will immediately destroy by trying to actually drive it.
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Jul 14, 2021 04:02
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hauler continued: 3-speed transmission  build and glued tire sets. also installed the running boards/boxes, motor, and electronics platform. now i have to figure out how to fit all the MFU stuff inside the cab, then worry about the cab painting.
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Jul 20, 2021 02:46
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Those MRs are so cool, I know I'm gonna get bored one of these days and kit out a little fleet of them. First speaker hook-up test of the multifunction control unit, which is an ESC plus audio and vibration controller and pass-through interface for your servos so it can make all the right noises based on what's happening with the truck. It also knows when a trailer is hooked up and adjusts the throttle response and engine noise to make it feel like the truck is hauling weight. https://imgur.com/GKCWu0o https://imgur.com/a/3dkxeEl The JDM Tamiya tuned 36 turn truck motor is still way, way too fast. I ordered a cheapo 80t crawler motor to make it more realistic, and am going to expo the heck out of all the controls so they look less jumpy. Currently getting the body pieces ready for the paint booth.
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Jul 30, 2021 10:12
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Just built an XV-02; it’s a very weird kit compared to the other tamiya touring cars I’ve built in TA-01, TA-02, TA-02SW, TA-07, TB-IV, TB-VI, TT-02, etc flavors. The front and rear diffs are sandwiched into the chassis from below instead of above, the chassis has a lot of extra plastic to keep dirt out/trap it in, there is no room for electronics with the inline motor setup, the battery is bafflingly turned vertical which might be justifiable if it rode near the center of the chassis, nothing is easily accessible or adjustable, and so on. It comes with bearings and enough little blue parts to feel cool, but the steering setup is among the sloppiest I’ve built. Just odd design choices all around. I bought and added the slipper clutch, which changes the spur gear required, which complicates getting away from tamiyas mod 0.6 gears. Slapped a 17.5t in there and it hauls rear end and feels pretty composed ripping around the neighborhood, with enough ground clearance to hit some small drop offs and bumps. The real reason I wanted this was my childhood love of the Lancia body set. The XV02 doesn’t come with a body, so I probably should’ve just bought the 01 with the Lancia, but here we are. 
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Oct 11, 2023 03:39
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Since my teen decided he wanted to be into RC again a couple of months ago we really have gone crazy building and breaking things, and trying to get back into racing at our closest indoor offroad track. On the bashing side, we pulled out his old Stampede VXL 2wd and finally decided to put a 3S battery in it to see what it could do; on the first trigger pull it shredded a universal joint and separated the rear tire glue on both sides. After repairing it, he made a couple of easy loops around the cul de sac followed by one full throttle trigger pull which (again) lead to loss of a rear tire and a crazy tumbling crash that ejected the battery and partially de-cased it. Money well spent. Trying to get back into racing after several years off has been challenging but fun. The biggest initial obstacle for us is just learning to drive again; I raced RC throughout my entire childhood and for a few multi-year periods as an adult where I put in enough work to be a competitive club racer, and after six years off I really am at the bottom of the hill again. I've spent a few practice days logging 400+ laps at the track (compared to a total of ~50 for a race day) with my throttle endpoint turned down enough to practice the line without crashing and it's helped a lot. I still need to do some work with tire prep for the super hard clay surface, as it's one of those offroad tracks where people run slicks but if you get slightly out of the groove it's like ice. I built a new 22 5.0 and the boy is racing my 22 3.0. Also trying to remember how to use an airbrush:  17.5 2wd buggy is fun because it's so insanely competitive, and the cars really are unbelievably fast. As someone who raced in the 90s it's still shocking that a sportsman stock car can now clear triples and turn laps that used to be considered expert mod speed.
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Nov 2, 2023 16:06
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Nerobro posted:... I have.... a lot.. to say about all of this. Especially about power, and traction. 
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Nov 3, 2023 02:29
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No pressure, and I certainly understand. I spent a lot of race time as a kid on dirty parking lots at hobby shops, or loose dirt off-road tracks, or much lower traction on road tracks than what we have now and it’s wildly different. I have no data but it seems like a significant portion of indoor off-road in the states has moved to astroturf or carpet over plywood jumps. The last time I was racing competitively I was more on road focused and we had to coat touring car sidewalls in CA to allow them to slip enough to prevent traction rolls. There is still a lot of black magic in tire prep off-road; one good thing I’ve seen is the move away from odorous tire sauces, but that is also a half measure which should really be a move to only non-toxic ones with MSDS’ available. The racing scene is definitely changing. Drag racing seems to be super popular now, I imagine in part because it’s much more accessible to beginners to do without frustration. I did find a hobby shop running parking lot races near me but unfortunately they were just closing the season for the winter when we got started. There’s also a ton of Mini Z racing around here, and one hobby shop has an indoor drift track which is something I hadn’t seen before. Change is great, but I am also nostalgic for the old days of being at a hugely popular track with like 15 full mains on a Saturday night.
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Nov 3, 2023 09:07
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| # ¿ Apr 29, 2024 11:43 |
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When I raced in 2015-2018 the track I went to had a good enough population to have great variance of on road classes, including a Tamiya spec TA-02SW Porsche class where we ran kit stock (bushings, Mabuchi 540, kit tires, etc) with a spec battery, which was fun and quite cheap compared to anything else. The granularity of power systems is ridiculous, and since the strategy seems to be ‘I have infinite available current, so I will gear the motor until it melts’ they are all impossibly fast. We really need a slow, cheap system for beginner racing or a better method of limiting the fast, cheap systems. The tools all exist to effectively implement an easy equipment spec or an output limit but it would require manpower and time at the track: spec a TBL-02 and silver can class with an enforced weight limit, or tech the car with a tachometer for tire rpm, or whatever, but I’ve never seen a normal club race actually do tech. The easy/lazy solution for spec racing is a buyout rule but part of the hobby is buying expensive little accessories we don’t have the driving skill to exploit and that ruins the build. From the 20 years of RCTech reading I’ve done I get the feeling that people really like to point their frustrations at how much money people sink into stock (17.5) classes racing to be competitive, but MOST club A-mains I’ve seen lately have been like: 1. Nationals Guy: 20 laps 2. Nationals Guy: 20 3. Regionals Guy: 19 4. Regionals Guy: 19 5. Club Guy: 18 6. Club Guy: 18 7. Club Guy: 17 8. Club Guy: 16 9. Club Guy: 16 10. Club Guy: 16 And honestly if guy 1 and guy 10 swapped buggies, guy 10 wouldn’t win, and guy 1 would probably still podium. In the brushed days (with higher attendance) these groups would be split into sportsman stock and expert stock. I also desperately want more mini, fwd, and f1 racing, and any other wacky class. Give me a class of that lovely Kyosho motorcycle from the 90s, I’ll do it. Comparison time: Here’s the 1987 IFMAR 2wd Worlds: https://youtu.be/h1pS_EHG0MA?si=cPUsw91EAtRjiTF8 Here’s the 2023 IFMAR 2wd Worlds: https://youtu.be/K9736_oZaA0?si=ZWUXB-6Md3oSWQB4 Honestly I’m surprised at how fast the 80s bugs look, and the real difference is that modern ones explode from hairpin to triple-clearing speed in six feet and all look like they could hit 50 if the straight was longer. The old racing is more full-scale like, and maybe more compelling to watch?
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Nov 3, 2023 23:18
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