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I had no idea there was an R/C car thread here. I've been involved in the competitive R/C car world for a good 5 years or so, electric offroad to be exact. If anyone has any questions about getting into the sport and locating a track and stuff like that I'd be happy to answer. Right now I own: 2 factory team RC10B4s and 2 factory team RC10T4s (one of each are just old rolling chassis, the newer ones all have top of the line electronics), and an old RC10GT. Sometime in the future I would love to get into 4WD with a B44, but I would have to get another full set of electronics as well as a new lipo for it. I've gotten top 10 in plenty national-scale events, my best finish being 2nd in open modified at the reedy truck race of champions.  Click here for the full 1824x1024 image. edit: I am in southern california, which is one of the, if not the biggest RC areas in the world so if you have any questions or are local I can probably answer them. edit2: ElJefeDeJefes posted:I'm am thinking about getting into R/C racing. I remember getting a ready to race kit (a Tamiya kit I think) as a youth, and it was fun as hell to build. I went down to my local hobby shop and the store clerk there said that most companies do not make RTR kits anymore. I thought that's lame, it was more fun to build and tweak than it was to race it. Anyway, that leaves me 2 options, buy a kit and all of the parts over time to get the car to run, or buy a RTR car. Well, option 2 is completely dumb, so I'm going to try and build it from scratch. I was going to answer you in the DIY thread but I'll answer it here I guess. First of all welcome to the hobby, I've had alot of joy and I started out with an RTR T4. I think that the whole RTR/kit thing is a toss up, its nice to not jump into a new hobby head first so the RTR might be better for you, but I've found that if you end up wanting to become more serious, the the RTR's electronics and hardware just make it a pain and a waste of money. It's also nice to build it yourself so you learn how to tweak and work on your car yourself. The T4 is a great kit to start out with, it will be very easy to drive once you get it set up and running, the B4 will be a bit harder to drive but will over all make you a better driver. That is a great transmitter and reciever to start with, I myself have an Airtronics M11 with spektrum RX/TX (definitely stick with 2.4ghz, crystals are a pain) but given the chance I would probably get that transmitter. I've driven other people's cars at the track and I like the feel of it (though I'm used to the M11), my dad uses a Futaba 3PK that I don't like. Whatever feels comfortable to you. While there is nothing wrong with Castle's ESC/motors, it is that motor choice itself that I would warn you about. The 5700 is way too hot of a motor for anyone starting out and is likely too much motor for the T4 period, even in the hands of the best drivers in the world. That is the equivalent of like a 9-10turn brushed motor or like a 5.5-6.5 brushless motor. I myself have always run Novak and can't say anything bad about them, but I would give other companies a look. For people starting out a 17.5 stock brushless motor will be plenty to handle. Some other brands to look at are Novak, LRP, Tekin or Speedpassion. If you only planned to bash around in the park or whatever then by all means you can go with the 5700, it will be more than enough power for what you're looking for but if you plan on racing on a track then it will be too much. Good Dog fucked around with this message at 03:22 on Jun 7, 2009 |
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Jun 7, 2009 02:58
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ElJefeDeJefes posted:A lot of great info here, thanks for the response. I'll look into other brushless/esc combos as you suggested.... I'm not too hip on exactly what you mean about the 9-10 turn, etc etc... so I'll be sure to do some more research. I'd like to try my hand at racing eventually. Well, I took the plunge today. I picked up the T4 Factory Team kit today and I'm 90% done putting together the chassis. I'm going to work on the paint job until I can get the money together for the motor/esc combo (which ever I end up with). I'm pretty excited about the whole thing. I also live in Southern California, about an hour north of Los Angeles. Again, thanks for the info. When it comes to brushed and brushless motors, the lower the number of winds, the faster the motor will be. A 17.5 brushless/27 brushed are considered stock, 13.5 bl/ 19 b are super stock, and anything below that is modified. Just know that even the best drivers in the world usually don't go below a 7.5 brushless for their T4, which is about a 12 turn brushed. I would definitely recommend picking up a esc/motor combo kit that comes with a 17.5 motor, you can get more motors down the way but start with stock or you will end up with a lot of broken parts and you won't get any better as a driver. I'm about an hour south of LA, I'm in like central Orange County.
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Jun 7, 2009 17:12
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Ryzic posted:Was wondering if anyone could enlighten me on this: Brushless/Lipo is the standard nowadays, they're even roar approved for all applications. 17.5 is considered stock and 13.5 is considered superstock (19t). There is still a bit of a battery war when it comes to C ratings (the higher will have more punch, but its not like before where you had to deal with voltages, IR ratings, etc). Right now the best battery (in my opinion) is the Reedy 35C 5000, this will get about 25-30 mins in stock racing. A brushless esc/motor kit will run you about 250$~ depending on brand and if you get a sweet deal, and a top of the line lipo (like the reedy 35c) is about 100~ (that lipo is 110), but you can still get lower mah lipos that perform just as well, but don't get as good of a runtime. These lower mah lipos (which are lighter and may be better for stock/ss applications) are about 70$. It seems like alot but when you no longer have to have 6+ batteries on cycle, going through a set of brushes or more a race night and motors in a few months. tl,dr (I tend to go on and on about racing  ): brushless/lipo is a wonderful investment and there is a drat good reason it is the standard right now.
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Jun 8, 2009 06:43
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The tranny on it probably isn't good enough to handle the power that modern motors are putting out, parts will be a bitch to find. You'll have to search ebay and stuff like that for parts. If you just want it to be a shelf queen, RPM probably still makes parts for the common stuff (a arms, bulk heads, etc) but they will be likely blue (my GT10 has blue a arms and it looks ridiculous) or a wierd color. If you wanted to get it running to the point that could could bash or race with it, you would be much better off getting a T4 or a new model car. I don't know what you mean by modernize, do you mean get it to where it'll run at the track or in the parking lot with new stuff? You could always get newer electronics and if you feel your RC10 is holding you back or if it breaks and you can't get parts or whatever, you could always get a new car and transfer the electronics over.
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Jun 11, 2009 19:50
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Frag Viper posted:I'll take pics when I get home. I have to clean it up a bit first. Its been sitting in my garage for years. It's probably an incredibly old closed endbell motor, and the bushings in there are probably poo poo by now. Even a stock brushed motor will probably be faster than what you have in there now.
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Jun 12, 2009 22:27
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kuffs posted:Shot of me at the local trophy race last weekend. You got beat by a little kid. Hard to tell if its a gas truck (looks like an losi AD2). I see a notch where the pipe's exhaust would fit, but I can't see any engine cutouts on your car. Sadly I haven't been to an event that gave out trophies for over a year. Last shot of me was from Oct 07. I look forward to going to some big races again this year. Anyone going to/live in Omaha for this year's Electric Offroad Nationals? They're next week. I've got my fingers crossed for Steven Hartson. Good Dog fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Jun 18, 2009 |
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Jun 18, 2009 01:22
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I guess electric. It does look like he has a hole in his left window for filling up the gas tank though. Plus the guy on the right looks to be running an Evader or something.
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Jun 18, 2009 02:15
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visuvius posted:Any goons in the Orange County area willing to help a relative newb out? I have Team Associated TC3 that I was into for a while and gave up on because I just couldn't dial it in right. It was really squirrely. I also bought a RC10B4 and had a hell of a time getting the shocks right. I'm in Garden Grove and race at OCRC about once a week. It is an indoor off/onroad track located in Huntington Beach (Bolsa Chica/Bolsa area). I've never run onroad but I've driven B4/T4s for years and can give you some pointers if you ever came down to the track.
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Jun 20, 2009 03:04
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Reedy, Orion, Trakpower, SMC, and Maxamps (known for soft case lipos) all make good lipos. For the most part all their cells come from the same place (Kokam and a few other major lipo manufacturers).
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Jul 4, 2009 20:57
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Somewhat Heroic posted:
I used to go through Ultimate Hobbies, as it was the closest full shop. I'll still go there for any electronics because they are usually 20$+ cheaper than the onsite hobby stores. For any general parts I just buy them at the track (OCRC and WCRCR are both 20 minutes from me and do a good job at keeping parts in stock, usually even better than Ultimate does). I don't usually bothering buying online unless a big race is coming up and I need 5+ sets of tires, and for that I'll order from the manufacturer along with some friends to get a shipment of 20+ tires.
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Jul 31, 2009 21:08
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